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I am sorry for your loss. Perhaps you have some of his work with which to remember him. The slider should come off prior to moving. It is not hard to do so, but it is really a two-person job. Once

Hey Calvin, What does the situation on the ground look like? Is this a typical 2-4 car suburban garage with immediate access to a flat and paved driveway, or is this over the hills and through the

Of course Bill. The estate plan instructions read “Call Paul Kelly. For better pricing, call Scott Slater.” LOL Seriously, my estate plan binder includes a section on dealing with the shop

Thank you all for your suggestions. I didn't think to look at the parallel-cuts device, but it appears to solve the issue. Darrell Miller

Mr Best, without being too revealing, can you give us some tips on the liquidation of the equipment? Bill Belanger

Hello Calvin, I’m sorry for your loss. I would suggest you contact a machinery rigging company in your area. Such organizations do this kind of thing all the time. You didn’t say where you are,

Hi Calvin, Sorry for your loss The combination machine is essentially a Jointer/Planer and Table saw bolted together. It can be moved as one, or as two halves. To move as two halves with the saw

I just successfully broke down 3/4" and 1/4" plywood using the 768mm extension table mentioned together with the parallel cutting guide for narrower pieces.

Hello, My father-in-law recently passed, and he had a Felder combination machine (731-03) in his shop along with a Felder bandsaw (FB-40). I need to move both in advance of selling his house, but

Dave to give you an idea of what we are talking about all these images are MDF doors with brass butts, normally I use tulip wood for the frames....but have also used MDF for the frames. Screws I use

Thanks for the quick replies. Morgan: I hadn't considered using tee hinges for the outer doors. They would be more robust than the Blum "click-top" type but I will need to consult with my in-house

Hi, Just to let you know that my Felder 945S has the exact same flange/pin design as John's Kappa 450. I suppose it might have something to do with stopping a size 450mm blade. Regards, Cornelius

Imran’s saw to which you refer is a K975. The pins on the cap secure the cap to the saw arbor so that it doesn’t spin loose when breaking is applied. The same pins exist on the cap for the Kappa

It seems counter-intuitive that the K700S, with a maximum blade size of 315 mm, would have pins and the Kappa 400 with larger blade capacity does not. It sounds like Imran’s saw has pins in the

Dave, 99% of high end uk kitchen manufacturers that produce painted face frame stuff use MR MDF doors and butt hinges. The trick is to pre drill for the screw, use a longish quality screw like assay

OK, that’s what I figured based on your description. This is totally different from the Kappa 400 arrangement which does NOT have pins that go through pin holes in the blade. I guess Felder

John, I have a rip fence extrusion that is shorter than the normal one specifically for bump-stop use. You can buy it from Felder here

This is the other side, with the flange in place. This is what it looks like when ready to install a new blade. -- John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941

Thanks Joe, I have two pressure washers here at the homestead. Neither provide hot water. I hadn't thought of how I would hang them to clean them. It makes sense to avoid creasing them, or

I've had to do this before. I plowed a dado in the edge of the doors and glued in a piece of hardwood maybe 12x25 mm. All the screws go into the wood and it works fine. Jason Holtz J. Holtz