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Imran, I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined. I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence. A few years ago I posted a series of

Jack Forsberg on Instagram: "an old Canadian sticker moulder #wadkintemple" Watch and share reels with friends Sexton have 3 of these martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton,

Did it once for a “Rolex drawer” didn’t blow my skirt up Tolve construction

1. Calibrate stock batch with intentional extras, lay out to rest/acclimate and see which sticks stay most stable. 2. Check calibration and make sample reference blocks for profile and counterprofile

Wow, That is astonishing! welcome to the FOG forum.

In the summer 2024 I completed a project that the client wanted draw lighting, tried to get the Grass Dynopro draw boxes with integrated lights. We were told the Grass had no stock and didn't know

Branden, A long time sales person told me the exact same thing about all those refers. Unfortunately, I think you really have to spend over $10k to get a good fridge now. Tom Ruth

I alson run sticking in long lengths then for coping I run left and right (clockwise and counter clockwise) cope heads. [email protected]> wrote:

I process the same way as Tom. Everything cut to near net length, run through shaper/router with a backer and then trimmed later. Note that I do only inset cabinets so all of the doors are oversized

Just to add a few late comments to this thread. I installed a Wolf 30" induction cooktop and Wolf Combi Steam Oven over a single M-series oven five years ago. The performance has been flawless and all

Been working around residential kitchens for decades and have never seen “drawer lights”. Is this a new thing? Thx, Wade

Hi Imran, My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following: --

I have dimmable LED's under all the upper cab's.? I have not yet installed the kitchen ceiling lights, but even using only the undercab lights, I can find what I need in the lower cabs/drawers. I

I could be wrong, but it seems like lighting in drawers is a gimmick... I have never had an issue opening a drawer and finding it to dim to see what I was after... unless I suppose none of the lights

The Freeborn sets cut both the groove and tongue to length. You can exchange ( at least in the past ) the standard 3/8 center pieces for ? or 5/8" deep ones. I'm not convinced the longer groove

I am finishing up my window build and moving towards planning on the kitchen. One of the questions I have is what is what to do with inset drawer lighting. It seems like everything is geared toward

I wonder if this got lost due to title being long. Would like some feedback on how everyone is trimming the rail and stile stock. Please see the original msg below. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations

That is super nice James. Attention to detail like chamfering the groove and slight nibs on the tongue are very nice. Not to mention the variable groove/tongue width. Bit more expensive than the

Whitehill's cabinet door cutter head set has a 15mm deep groove/tongue, looks nice. https://www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/kitchen-door-sets/ [image: cutter.jpg] James [email protected]>

Hi Lucky, I believe you are correct that with 3/4” thickness, deeper than 3/8” could potentially have issues. I was asked to duplicate a sample and in this case the rear lip of the groove is only