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First use of BMM. Much needed shaper insert for 150 mm cutterheads. Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Thank you for the replies...John and Imran, great suggestions and simple and should do the trick!? Am going to try this method along with the BS or rough cut on the slider and then finishing on the

I use the same method as Imran. John love you Gizmo! thanks for sharing. [email protected]> wrote: -- Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways www.fineinteriorwoodwork.com www.richardmartinwindows.com

I know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas? Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hullo all- very informative thread, thanks to all the contributors! I learn a lot here. I recall one member posting that they precisely cut a square of MDF, set it against the left fence, and now you

Hi all, I recently got second hand RL200 too and yes, it warms up a bit, but probably like you Bryce, here in the UK we are heading for winter months, so it will be a good workshop heater ? It's a

For Lucky’s overhang method, I just use a block of wood with a pencil mark indicating the cut line. Push block against end of the slider and at least cover the pencil line with material being cut.

Hi David: I’m pleased there was something helpful in there. I’m guilty of not even thinking about sheet goods, and yes, I do use primarily solid wood. Bryce makes the excellent point about

Ha! John. Fantastic. That would get it close. Thanks for sharing. Warm regards, Lucky From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Hinman via groups.io

Sounds good Mac. Your words sum it up well, especially ‘being skilled’ and ‘being damn careful’! Warm regards, Lucky From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf

Kamal, One way to get parallel rips is to set the fence parallel to the cut and use it for a bump stop. Eventually your 12” board will be reduced in width to a point where you can no longer clamp it

So I’d recommend when ripping to set the fence to end at the back of the riving knife. Lay the fence on its low side.. Straight line one edge Stand next the the blade guard on slider edge and jam

Jonathan, thank you very much for posing the question as have been struggling with how to rip down material specifically for face frames. John, your suggestion on rough ripping on a bandsaw and then

Hi John: You make good points about both the use of a bandsaw and thicknessing on edge. And with regard to the slightly ‘out of square’ issue. It is very minor like you say, but enough to notice.

Greetings:I normally cc first selecting longest length always trying to work with smallest parts. If you can do hit and miss first that will help with matching color and grain. You can also specify

Another method for ripping is skipping the circular saw, ripping to slightly over width on a band saw, and running the boards on edge through a thicknesser. That idea has been presented in this group

Bryce- Thank you. I think that’s rounds it out nicely. We were typing at the same time, I’m afraid. -David Gandy (Dumas is worth it.)

Lucky- That was excellent. Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed explanation, I understand significantly more now. I notice that you discuss the length of the work, but not the width.

Ok, i'll try to add something to this topic. It depends...... What are you trying to rip? How many? What thickness? There are so many questions that need answering before an answer can be given. Here

Thanks David, I have roughly 40 feet of 8" ducting along with around 30 feet of 6" and 30 feet of 5" so far. The sheet metal isn't hot, however i can certainly feel warm air around the machine when i