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Thanks for the input on the cutter block selection. Rough cost is +$4k per machine for spiral over Tersa which breaks the bank if I didn't already.? Joel if you bought your machines recently there

Plane a piece of hardwood down from 30mm to 20mm checking with calipers each time until it is exactly 20mm, leave the bed where it is and hold the reset button. It should reset to 20mm.

Bill: Sorry - I should have included in the first message ?! The height is essentially the same - 15.3mm. J.

Jacques, What is the overall height? Mine is 15mm. BB <jacques.gagnon309@...> wrote:

That absolutely helps Jacques! Thanks so much! Bill <jacques.gagnon309@...> wrote:

Thanks Brian. One step at a time into the worm can... :) BB [email protected]> wrote:

Bill, I just made a profile (using red oak) to insert in the slider of my B3. The measurements for the piece I will use on my machine are: 21.8mm for the bottom width (32 on your drawing) 9.6mm for

Hi Bill, As for how many configurations, a lot of different ones. I just finished printing some nuts for a bridge clamp I built for my machine, it’s an old F-channel slider. Compared to yours,

I made some T nuts for the Felder slider. Unfortunately, I only have the Kappa 400 table to measure, and someone who purchased some for his B3 Hammer said they were too wide. So can someone tell me

Recently, I was able to purchase a 1-year old local t45-54. ?I sold my JP and other personal belongings to generate $ and free up space. ?I would say that getting used local was what allowed it to

I likely have a different generation of A3 combo unit that you, but did experience a similar problem with the locking handle on mine. My solution was to simply not leave the locking handle tightened

Interesting. This is different advice than the Preston video shared earlier. I’m not having trouble aligning the infeed and outfeed tables but rather the infeed table farthest from the cutter head

When I had my Felder engineer here for my Hammer C3 31 he had several tips regarding the jointer beds, maybe it will be of use for you: * If you have to replace the cutter head and need to start all

Here is another diy guard from Mike Farrington. https://youtu.be/nhEZEnu9Gak Jay

Hi Dave, Yes. Thanks for starting this thread. It’s something I need to think about and I can see the many advantages of this type of system. Axminster Tools have a few options available. I'm still

My question seems to have started a good discussion. There's an interesting design (similar to the commercial offerings people have mentioned) here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA-O-1qUDh4 I

I have Tersa on my Dual 51 and love it. Except when a contractor friend came over with 250 feet of 16” wide rough live oak to do S2S. We emptied the RL160 every single board. If you’re planning a

I have both the machines you’re looking at with Tersa. The president of Martin USA at the time recommended the Tersa, I have no regrets . Tom Morris Wichita, KS

Tom, Those router bits/shanks are made by Guhdo. I don’t own those specific bits, but I do own other shaper tooling made by Guhdo and it’s excellent quality. At one time most of the shaper tooling

Tom, in Europe these are ok for industrial boring gear, in metric and imperial. https://www.cmtorangetools.com/eu-en/industrial-boring-bits Don't know about availability your side of the pond. I