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Thanks LIoyd for the info, so the belts you have are all cloth backed? The sander comes with a few used 100 a 60 and 1 new 120. Are you able to sand commercial veneers that are glued to ply or MDF on

Here is the Felder T Nut I have: https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/shop/t-slot-nuts-sc123919/t-slot-nut-m10-sp123922 Bill

Hi, I have the Kreg automaxx with the Felder T-Nut and a square piece of hardwood as in David's schema. The issue James described is correct. When you apply pressure the wood is pulled toward the

James, Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure? Thx, Wade

I have the same sander.? 120 is too fine to remove resaw blade marks- it'll take too many passes and prematurely wear out the belt. I use 80 for rough sizing and removing saw marks and tear out but

The wheel is ahead of the blade. The steam or whatever it is, came out of few boards but only at the beginning of the cut. Dull blade yes but I have not experienced heat with a blade that cuts well

James, Steam makes sense as there was no burning and like Jarred I did not smell anything. I will check MC again but it was 15-16% in summer which is typical for our climate for thoroughly air dried

My initial thought is your clamp wheel appears to behind the blade? Causing the gap to close after the blade, thus squeezing the blade and creating heat. Hard to tell from the camera position. The

David, No. Any Festool-like quick ratcheting clamp works great on the PantoRouter. If I had the milling machine, I would make the steel t-nuts with the slot at the bottom, so I can use the Festool

Jason, I don’t think he was a rep but I don’t know how much he really knows. So you are saying that 120 then 150 cloth with platen then RO right? Regards, Mark

I'd have to beg to differ with the Klingspore guy, and if it's anything like up here, they can't keep a rep longer than 12 months... On my 43" Sandya, there's 120 grit cloth backed belt in there 90%

Imran, My first reaction was that it was steam, check the moisture content of the wood. Btw, I have that Aigner resaw pressure module, I have the one-wheel and two-wheel accessory. I use a two-wheel

The PantoRouter is probably a fitting application for those clamps. LOL David Best

Steam could very well be the answer. I couldn't smell any smoke. I just saw it, if you didn't smell anything I'd assume steam is a likely culprit. Could also be a small sap pocket?

Thanks Joe and Jarred. I should have added there were no knots and I am using carbide resaw king. No burn marks on the wood either. No problem resawing, you can tell from my feed rate; so not a dull

I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table. The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the

Looking for where to start with grits for a wide belt, i bought a used scmi sandya win cs63 24”. Delivery was supposed to be tomorrow but they found that they need to replace the conveyor belt so it

If I were making a T-nut for the sliding table, I would choose the following material and use a conventional barrel-style T-nut inserted from below into a relieved (counterbored) hole.

The challenge with the Kreg clamp (or any of the auto-adjusting types) is how to lock them down to a T-nut in the sliding table. That securing bolt is under the clamping arm, and comes up from below.

Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.