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PM 141s are great 14” saws. I had one that was a 1990 gold era. Sold for $650 during the 2008 recession and I thought that was a cheap price Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2020 9:23 AM To: Felder Owner

Well here I go again, any opinions on this 141? I had planned on using my little inca 260 for small stuff which I have been until I discovered some issues with the lower wheel, it needs replaced and

I'm so sorry about the quality of the picture.? It's actually a screen shot of a video showing the entire piece of furniture.? And then I've zoomed in probably 5X to show the edge detail.? ?I'm in

Hi Rob, This moulding was produced on a spindle moulder with an appropriate cutter set and probably tilted as well! This enabled the shallow v grove to be cut and produce the corner bead. Executed as

I think we’re all struggling with the picture quality, but Michael I wonder whether your idea of raising the bit will not only create the stopped shoulder Rob wants, but it will also re-profile the

My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down

I had the Ritter for a minute. Boat anchor, and a good one at that as it's a huge heavy cabinet that's almost completely empty. It vibrated horribly, made sloppy holes. I can't think of a good Ritter

Brett, did you attach the shim blocks to clamp foot somehow or just manually place it between foot and material? imran

Michael, thanks for the pics. long time ago i saw a video that talked about the new kreg foreman as an exception where price was reduced and featured improved. it mentioned clamp adjustment, bit

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Michael, i assume robert is talking about the vertical routing detail that terminates in a V shape in top. i would attempt to make the two fillets with round in between with a bullnose type bit in one

The “v” or grove on the right? There’s always the possibility for chisel clean up for square corners. Unless I’m misunderstanding. I don’t see the detail very clearly on my phone to analyze

Michael, if i understand what you are saying correctly, let’s say the roundover bit is making the lower fillet and bottom half of round. how would you drop the workpiece while still traveling to get

Looks like a stopped cut to me if I’m looking at the right thing. I’d probably recreate that with a round over then drop it to make a stepped round over in a stop cut setup. The groove or v would

Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ...

Nobody has mentioned the Ritter machines?? Opinions? Thanks, Dave Davies

Kreg Foreman improvement idea - I dealt with the clamp/walking issue by adding a piece of adhesive backed sandpaper to the cup/foot for more traction under pressure. Then I got tired of the clamp not

Imran- On mine, it’s the same way. There is supposed to be a hose that goes from where the drill bit is to the rear hole.[Image.jpeg][Image.jpeg] Michael Tagge Built Custom Carpentry Get Outlook for

I bought a new 12. I used their template to enclose the bottom for dust collection. It was worthless. I just vacuum it out for the little I use it. It’s possible I did something wrong or it isn’t

michael, i bought foreman used. it is metal base one. it has open bottom and a round hole in rear wall that might be intended for dust collection. if your DC port is similar, would love insight into