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Re: Automatic Dust Collector & Blast Gate Controller
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDan,This is a great write up! ?Thanks for sharing. John Ferandin and I have been talking about a similar system for awhile but using a PLC rather than an Arduino. I really like your pigtail device for testing current. ?I have most of my shop set up with 30 amp three phase plugs and it would be easy to make a pigtail for testing current most of my machines. Joe in New Orleans
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New C3-41 owner
Hello all. ?Just bought a C3-41 (1999) and really like everything but the fence . ?The tightening screw is immovable. ?I would like to fix/replace mine and would appreciate hearing what my options would be. ?I searched and saw the unifence option. ?Are there others? ? Thank you so much. ?I need some help. Dan Thank you? |
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Automatic Dust Collector & Blast Gate Controller
I just posted a file describing a new device which controls a dust collector and blast gate when machine is turned on/off. ? This past spring I purchased a Felder KF700S sliding table saw and shaper combo. ?I also installed Nordfab ducting to the machine which included an automatic blast gate at ceiling height.? My dust collector is an Oneida Smart Pro 5HP unit with an RF remote.? In my small one person shop, the dust collector does not run continuously ¨C only when machines are producing chips. ? I wanted the dust collector to turn on automatically whenever I turned on the saw.? The blast gate must open at the same time.? When I turned the saw off, the collector would run for a programmable number of seconds before turning off and then closing the blast gate.? I wanted the dust collector to turn on via RF as I did not want to run wiring or disable my current RF remotes. Check out the unit in operation at?? Dan Schmidt |
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New file uploaded to felder-woodworking
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the felder-woodworking group. File : /FOG made products/DC & Blast Gate Controller.pdf Uploaded by : dschmid4 <dschmid4@...> Description : Automatic Dust Collector and Blast Gate Controller by Schmidt Woodworks, LLC. You can access this file at the URL: To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: Regards, dschmid4 <dschmid4@...> |
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Re: Blades for K700S
George, If I could only have one blade it would be a rip blade ! When I make a bespoke kitchen I would generally use the rip blade in the saw in conjunction with a scoring blade for the complete project, ?I use a felder silent power blade. IMHO is perfect for cross cutting, cutting up plywood. ?Im over in Spain where we dont have much choice in plywoods,I genaraly use a marine ply which when cut with universal blades or fine tooth blades burns the ply very quickly. Ive even cut up melamine faced boards using a rip blade blade in conjunction with a scoreing blade with good results. Ive no experiance with Leitz blades so cant coment, I did try talking to Leitz Spain but they there not intrested in my buisness, I run a one man shop generally making bespoke furniture so I guess they could not be bothed with me. I have a few CMT blades, there prices are good over here,and there service, there quality is not as good as Felder IMHO. I Agree with what others have said, you saw should be complete with blades, Would we buy a car without wheels? ? On 2 December 2016 at 21:43, 'david@bestservices IMAP 2' david@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@yahoogroup
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Jonathan Samways |
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Re: "Felder Unofficial Survival Guide book"
I'm still looking for one as well.? CafePress stopped doing print on demand books, so it's no longer available.? I heard from one person on this list when I asked about buying a used one, but I haven't heard back him (I'm still hoping).
I keep hoping that David would consider making it available on a "print-on-demand" site like blurb.? (http://www.blurb.com).? It looks like there are no upfront fees, and it seems there are a bunch of us that still want to buy a copy. (Please please please!) David has been incredible gracious in answering my email questions (thanks!), and has some excellent content on his flicker pages.? That said, I'm a bibliophile.? That's the reason I got into woodworking in the first place:? to make bookshelves.? As a young newly wed I was making wall-to-wall shelving out of old skids using a howling sidewinder and a beltsander to make the planks a little less fuzzy.? Being able to sit in front of a machine with a well-written manual has been invaluable to me.? Wally Kunkel's book on the old DeWalt Radial Saws helped me master them and get my machines cutting within a few thousands of perfect.? (http://www.blurb.com/sell-through-blurb).? Similarly, I reread Michael Fortune's article in FWW on tuning the bandsaw any time I need to adjust mine. I get the impression that David's book provides the same level of insight for the Felder sliders. |
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Re: "Felder Unofficial Survival Guide book"
GLEN
Yes I need one to.
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Glen -----Original Message----- From: Jay Runde jrunde@... [felder-woodworking] To: felder-woodworking Sent: Fri, Dec 2, 2016 6:14 pm Subject: [felder-woodworking] "Felder Unofficial Survival Guide book"
?
And where do you get the "Felder Unofficial Survival Guide book" at?
Jay
On Fri, Dec 2, 2016 at 9:21 AM, David Davies myfinishingtouch@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
Adam,? You've got a LN #7 but you are worthless with a plane? That's sad. Maybe the time to get familiar... I do this work all the time. My advice depends on the relative straight ness and flatness of your material. If you don't have too far to go to flat, the plane, powered or otherwise will do wonders. I use the 4" Makita power planer to take down high spots all the time. I go diagonally, from two directions checking often ?with 4' straight edge or level. Get it close and take it to the shop with the wide belt sander. If your wood is really cupped or twisted, I'd recommend the router sled route, or find a CNC shop. The program they use for machining their spoil board works great on slabs. You may need to shim it into a level ish condition splitting the difference between high and low spots.? I often do this with shorter slabs less than 37" wide and just run them through my sander which has a long conveyor bed. I'd forget the domino's. Unless you use a long setting glue they will be more trouble than benefit. I'd be happy to chat if you want. Good luck Jason Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 |
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýTake a crayon and mark out your parts . Cut all parts a little oversized. straighten an edge and rough rip than with The parts manageable than edge one side , face , size and than rip to desired width than joint final edge than glue up.? Mac ,,? martin/campshure/co/llc 608-824-0023?fax Designing and building for 47 years On Dec 2, 2016, at 6:33 PM, John jmkserv@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýYou have to look at each slab and see if there is twist or a bow lengthwise. A flat surface always helps even if it's the floor but an elevated surface would be better. That will give you an indication how much material has to be removed. In ?my experience with 8/4 walnut slabs I have processed 3/8 to 1/2" is common to remove. ?I always joint with the crown up. You may find that a knock down of corners with a hand plane helps if you have a twist. Doesn't have to be fancy just enough to help make it stable. I don't think a powerfeeder would much help and you won't need a torsion box, that's why you have a j/p. Like I said in the first post it would be handy to have a helper, you control the piece going over the cutter with the other person helping support and a little pushing power.? John JMK Services? -------- Original message --------
From: "adam@... [felder-woodworking]" <felder-woodworking@...> Date: 2016-12-02 7:54 PM (GMT-05:00) To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs ? ---In felder-woodworking@..., <jmkserv@...> wrote : > Are the slabs reasonably flat? Do you have a parallel guide for your saw? What is the length of your slider?? > I would think that if you can rip your pieces to something around 15 1/2" wide your j/p is more then adequate to process the slabs to an equal thickness. You may need a helper but this is something that can be easily done.? Hi John. The slider is 9'. I don't have parallel guides yet but this would be a good excuse to buy some from Brian. The slabs are reasonably flat. And assuming I can fit them through the planer, I'm not super worried about thicknessing. But jointing is another thing altogether. For example, how should I maneuver the pieces across the cutterhead to ensure that I am actually flattening? I have a power feeder on the saw that I could extend to the jointer; if I simply position the wheels over the outfeed bed, should I run the board crown up, or crown down? If the latter I assume I have to shim but am not clear how to do that.?Does the plan change if the board is twisted? I guess another option would be to build a torsion box that is 15-1/2" x 108" and run the boards on top of that through the planer. The planer feed beds seem kind of short for that, however. Thanks for your help! /afb |
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
Alan Mix
Adam -
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Since you are using Willamette Valley wood, can I assume you are in Oregon? We are blessed with mills around here that will plane the big slabs for you. You¡¯d still would need to do the final cleanup, but this might get you most of the way there. Have you talked to Goby Walnut in Portland and/or Albany? Zena Forest Products in Salem - Urban Lumber in Springfield - www.urbanlumbercompany.com Kasters in Mulino? Probably others... I haven¡¯t actually done this yet, but planned to do exactly what you are doing. I got a flitch of big live-edge walnut slabs from a colleague here, the rest of the tree after he made a similar large dining table. He had them planed on contract (I think at Zena), then did final smoothing finishing, etc with smaller tools in his (smaller) shop. He said it wasn¡¯t too expensive, and well worth it (assuming you can transport the slabs to the mill). I saw the table and it was dead flat and gorgeous. For the epoxy infill, have you talked to Brent Baker in Corvallis? He has done some interesting crack filling with crushed-stone/epoxy slurries (usually turquoise, lapis, malachite). Photos here: - he¡¯s not the only one doing this, but at least he has the bugs worked out and if you are from Oregon he might be a useful local contact. Not sure how this works out with expansion/contraction later. Good luck¡ Alan Corvallis, OR. On Dec 2, 2016, at 2:50 PM, adam@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
---In felder-woodworking@..., <jmkserv@...> wrote :
> Are the slabs reasonably flat? Do you have a parallel guide for your saw? What is the length of your slider?? > I would think that if you can rip your pieces to something around 15 1/2" wide your j/p is more then adequate to process the slabs to an equal thickness. You may need a helper but this is something that can be easily done.? Hi John. The slider is 9'. I don't have parallel guides yet but this would be a good excuse to buy some from Brian. The slabs are reasonably flat. And assuming I can fit them through the planer, I'm not super worried about thicknessing. But jointing is another thing altogether. For example, how should I maneuver the pieces across the cutterhead to ensure that I am actually flattening? I have a power feeder on the saw that I could extend to the jointer; if I simply position the wheels over the outfeed bed, should I run the board crown up, or crown down? If the latter I assume I have to shim but am not clear how to do that.?Does the plan change if the board is twisted? I guess another option would be to build a torsion box that is 15-1/2" x 108" and run the boards on top of that through the planer. The planer feed beds seem kind of short for that, however. Thanks for your help! /afb |
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAre the slabs reasonably flat? Do you have a parallel guide for your saw? What is the length of your slider?? I would think that if you can rip your pieces to something around 15 1/2" wide your j/p is more then adequate to process the slabs to an equal thickness. You may need a helper but this is something that can be easily done.? John JMK Services? -------- Original message --------
From: "adam@... [felder-woodworking]" <felder-woodworking@...> Date: 2016-12-02 5:50 PM (GMT-05:00) To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: [felder-woodworking] About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs ? This question is about practices, since you guys are all way more experienced than me. I hope it isn't inappropriate to ask here; if it is, my apologies. With my shop back up and running with the KF700SP and Minimax FS41ES, I'm ready to start on the dining room table I promised the wife. The table top will be 108" x 42". I purchased three slabs of Willamette Valley (Oregon) black walnut. Two are bookmatched, 8/4 x 168" x 20". The third is also 8/4, about 110" x 16". The pieces are not clear and have significant checks that will need stabilizing. My plan is to use tinted epoxy, though I am open to other options. The edges are also quite rough so I expect to lose at least an inch on each long edge. My plan, such as it is, is to trim 5' from the longer slabs and mill that wood into the pieces I need for aprons and legs. The top will be glued up from the three 9' slabs, with the unmatched slab in the middle. I'll use dominoes to align the edges.? I am concerned about my ability to flatten, square, and glue up these pieces due to their dimensions and weight. Moreover, even ripping the wide slabs down to 16" will put them at the limit of my FS16. I have a couple of options for access to a wide belt sander and/or larger jointer/planer. I have also looked at the creation of a router jig for flattening large slabs, though a) I'm not super excited about building one for a one-time use; b) no longer own a large router; and c) don't have a large flat surface for the base of such a jig. I would be exceptionally grateful for any suggestions (up to and including tough love) for how to best proceed. Thanks in advance ¡ª I've learned a ton from this list in the last year. /afb |
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
mhkoury
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJust sharpen the plane blade with a honing guide to about 30 degrees, blunt the corners of the blade a little and don¡¯t worry about radiused edges. Your object is to get the table flat. Plane cross-grain (or diagonal) first and then with the grain. Make sure you have a good long straight edge. Check side to side and corner to corner (so as to avoid twist). Finally, if you are really a hand-tool woodworker, use a No. 4 set up as a smoothing plane. Or - - just use a Festool sander to smooth it.Mark
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
---In felder-woodworking@..., <mhkoury@...> wrote :
>?I would use a Lie Nielsen No. 8 joiner plane to get it flat. Strange, perhaps but for a small shop this is the most efficient tool to use. Hi Mark. I'm useless with a hand plane, but I do have a #7 Lie-Nielsen. I hesitated to even consider using it because: ? I'm useless with a hand plane ? Whenever I read about using a jointer plane I see comments about custom large-radius irons or eased corners, etc. Is the general idea to use the hand place to flatten and then machine to thickness and to remove plane marks? Thanks! |
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Re: About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
mhkoury
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI almost hate to say this but - -? I would use a Lie Nielsen No. 8 joiner plane to get it flat. Strange, perhaps but for a small shop this is the most efficient tool to use. Mark
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About to start large table, worried about flattening slabs
This question is about practices, since you guys are all way more experienced than me. I hope it isn't inappropriate to ask here; if it is, my apologies. With my shop back up and running with the KF700SP and Minimax FS41ES, I'm ready to start on the dining room table I promised the wife. The table top will be 108" x 42". I purchased three slabs of Willamette Valley (Oregon) black walnut. Two are bookmatched, 8/4 x 168" x 20". The third is also 8/4, about 110" x 16". The pieces are not clear and have significant checks that will need stabilizing. My plan is to use tinted epoxy, though I am open to other options. The edges are also quite rough so I expect to lose at least an inch on each long edge. My plan, such as it is, is to trim 5' from the longer slabs and mill that wood into the pieces I need for aprons and legs. The top will be glued up from the three 9' slabs, with the unmatched slab in the middle. I'll use dominoes to align the edges.? I am concerned about my ability to flatten, square, and glue up these pieces due to their dimensions and weight. Moreover, even ripping the wide slabs down to 16" will put them at the limit of my FS16. I have a couple of options for access to a wide belt sander and/or larger jointer/planer. I have also looked at the creation of a router jig for flattening large slabs, though a) I'm not super excited about building one for a one-time use; b) no longer own a large router; and c) don't have a large flat surface for the base of such a jig. I would be exceptionally grateful for any suggestions (up to and including tough love) for how to best proceed. Thanks in advance ¡ª I've learned a ton from this list in the last year. /afb |
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"Felder Unofficial Survival Guide book"
And where do you get the "Felder Unofficial Survival Guide book" at? Jay On Fri, Dec 2, 2016 at 9:21 AM, David Davies myfinishingtouch@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: Blades for K700S
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI have a few Leitz rip blades and love them. ? However, I have standardized on Tenryu blades for use with the scoring saw. ? Specifically, I use the Tenryu?IW-350100AB3 which is 350mm, and too large for a K700, so you¡¯d want the 300mm variant - IW300100AB3. ? I have about 5 identical Tenryu blades and just rotate them out for sharpening as required. ? Standardizing on a single blade type means you don¡¯t have to change the scoring saw blade cut width when you swap out blades. ? I recently bought a new scoring blade from Freud Industrial and returned it because it was garbage. ? I recommend you buy your scoring saw blade from Felder. Having said all that, I use Leitz exclusively for sharpening all my blades. ?They have been the most consistent and convenient and will sharpen any brand of blade. ?I had Leitz re-grind two of the mentioned Tenryu blades to flat-top instead of alternating-top-bevel so they cut a flat bottomed kerf for joinery applications. ? In my area (Portland Oregon) Leitz has a roving rep who comes down from Seattle every week and will come to my shop to pick up and deliver blades being sharpened at no extra cost. ? ?Even if I had to ship them UPS to Leitz for sharpening, I would do so to get their service. David Best
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Jason Holtz
David P. Best