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Dan, I echo Joe's comment excellent writeup. Making one of these is outside my comfort zone but well within my son's zone as he's a EE major at Louisiana Tech. What would you say the cost is to build

Hi Glen, I am a hobbyist woodworker with a good bit of Felder equipment. As I have accumulated machines, put them to use, and replaced a couple, some of the “less important” things have become

Jay, Thank you-I'll look into that. Would Hammer have an alternative fence? Dan

For those who don't wish to learn the skill of hand planing Consider building a Router Bridge. It is a scalable piece of shop built gear that can take a variety of forms

Hi guys. This is just to share some broad brush thoughts re. the recent discussions regarding dust filter efficiencies/HEPA/MERV/ and workplace expose limits (WEL)/room air quality. Thought it might

There is an option from Very Super Cool Tools http://vsctools.com/. They have A Euro style fence, but you'll need a Biesmeyer style rail. They do have instructions on there site on how to diy a rail.

Dan, This is a great write up! Thanks for sharing. John Ferandin and I have been talking about a similar system for awhile but using a PLC rather than an Arduino. I really like your pigtail device for

Hello all. Just bought a C3-41 (1999) and really like everything but the fence . The tightening screw is immovable. I would like to fix/replace mine and would appreciate hearing what my options would

I just posted a file describing a new device which controls a dust collector and blast gate when machine is turned on/off. This past spring I purchased a Felder KF700S sliding table saw and shaper

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the felder-woodworking group. File : /FOG made products/DC & Blast Gate Controller.pdf

George, If I could only have one blade it would be a rip blade ! When I make a bespoke kitchen I would generally use the rip blade in the saw in conjunction with a scoring blade for the complete

Bother. I wasn't paying enough attention and pasted the wrong URL for Mr Sawdust. The correct one is http://www.mrsawdust.com http://www.mrsawdust.com if anyone cares.

I'm still looking for one as well. CafePress stopped doing print on demand books, so it's no longer available. I heard from one person on this list when I asked about buying a used one, but I haven't

Yes I need one to. Glen

Adam, You've got a LN #7 but you are worthless with a plane? That's sad. Maybe the time to get familiar... I do this work all the time. My advice depends on the relative straight ness and flatness of

Take a crayon and mark out your parts . Cut all parts a little oversized. straighten an edge and rough rip than with The parts manageable than edge one side , face , size and than rip to desired width

You have to look at each slab and see if there is twist or a bow lengthwise. A flat surface always helps even if it's the floor but an elevated surface would be better. That will give you an

Adam - Since you are using Willamette Valley wood, can I assume you are in Oregon? We are blessed with mills around here that will plane the big slabs for you. You’d still would need to do the final

---In felder-woodworking@..., <jmkserv@...> wrote : Hi John. The slider is 9'. I don't have parallel guides yet but this would be a good excuse to buy some from Brian. The slabs are

Are the slabs reasonably flat? Do you have a parallel guide for your saw? What is the length of your slider?? I would think that if you can rip your pieces to something around 15 1/2" wide your j/p