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Re: Felder AD941 vs SCM Fs41ES
PK,
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it only means we need to do an experiment. Run a board on my machine with the Tersa on one side and you’ll run the other side on the Xylent for comparison :)
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Re: Felder AD941 vs SCM Fs41ES
I have stayed out of this conversation (maybe I still should!) but here are my observations:
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Spiral vs Tersa may not be as cut and dry as is being stated.
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I have had:
- Straight knives - Lunchbox planer and a 20" Chinesium planer
- Byrd - Delta X5 15" planer
- Silent Power - Felder AD-941
- Tersa - HSS - 2 different versions - Griggio PSA-520
- Xylent - SCM L'invincible FS 7
I would agree with everyone around the Byrd version of the spiral head.? I found it to be acceptable, but not impressive with its finish.? Some of this may be tied to the quality and design of the machine.? Vibration will not help in the production of a smooth surface IMHO.
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The Silent Power head was far better than the Byrd head.? Smoother and on the slower speed (AD-941 has 2 speeds) it was pretty glassy.? It was only a 4hp machine, so I assume a larger cut might have affected the quality.?
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The Tersa machine was a 9hp 3ph machine with 3 separate motors and should have made for the best possibility of a smooth surface.? This was a Griggio that was over 1600 pounds with a massive casting, two output feed rollers and variable speed feed rate.? The surface was very good but I would not say it was better than the Silent Power cutter block results.? The machine was a beast for sure and the knives were easy to change- unlock the head, rotate to index it to the whole in the casting, pop the wedges and slide it out.
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The Xylent head on my SCM L'invincible FS 7 is similar to the Silent Power on the AD-941.? The difference is that I now have four speeds.? On the slowest speed, I am not sure you need to sand the wood.? Under an inspection lamp with mahogany you can only see the grain with no machine marks at all!? ?I have had several people to the shop that would agree with me and all of them were blown away at the surface with zero snipe.? This is the heaviest machine by far at 2350 pounds and it is a 15hp machine with almost no sheet steel.? There is very little vibration an very little compromise in design.
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Comparing a machine that has a Byrd, or converted to Byrd (there are other like brands that look similar as a 'basic' insert cutter) to a machine that is of superior design and construction would not be an apples for apples comparison IMHO.? Moving from that style, or a straight cutter, to Tersa on a better machine would be light years better.
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Am I biased because of what I have, maybe, but I have owned all five types in different levels of quality so I feel like I have a good basis to judge them all.
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To really judge the two options would require two exact machines, one with Tersa and one with a Silent Power or Xylent or Xplane to truly compare them.? I have yet to see the results of THAT test.? I only hear word of mouth.? I am a data guy, so it is hard for me to believe without experiencing the actual results.
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As far as the chips that come off the planer, agreed that the index cutterheads have smaller chips.
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PK?
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Re: Felder AD941 vs SCM Fs41ES
I have packed the filter for my cyclone when the depth of fill indicator fails. The pressure meter goes off the chart when that happens.
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I periodically take my filter off and clean it on my patio. So far the neighbors have not complained about the dust cloud.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Re: Saw blade for cross cut.
Hi Chris,
Hook or rake are used interchangeably. I am not a blade design level expert rather a user who reads and thinks a lot. I have only had blades with negative hook for non-ferrous metals. Here is a short read with more detail:
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As for the riving knife, I am not sure if there is one default. Machines with bigger blade (thicker plate) capability likely come with thicker riving knives.
Riving knife, as you may know already, needs to be thicker than blade plate and thinner than blade kerf. I believe I had a 2.8 mm riving knife with 3.2 mm Kerf blade which had a 2.2 mm plate.
HTH,
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On Apr 1, 2025, at 8:13?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:
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Thanks Imran,
I actually think I have the 50, not 60.
When you say a sliding saw with less hook, do you mean negative? Or just low positive say 0-5°.
I do have a scriber - Felder adjustable one but haven't used it yet as I dont work with much sheet material. My max blade would be about 305mm I think with the scriber. Is the default riding knife designed for a 3.2mm blade?
Thanks again,
Chris.
Re: Saw blade for cross cut.
Thanks Imran,
I actually think I have the 50 - Tenryu IW-30050CBD3 300mm not 60.
When you say a sliding saw with less hook, do you mean negative? Or just low positive say 0-5°.
I do have a scriber - Felder adjustable one but haven't used it yet as I dont work with much sheet material. My max blade would be about 305mm I think with the scriber. Is the default riving knife designed for a 3.2mm blade?
Thanks again,
Chris.
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Re: Felder AD941 vs SCM Fs41ES
I had a 30 gal drum on cyclone with 18” woodmaster planer and have RL125 since 2018 with Dual51 equipped with a Tersa head.
I filled cyclone filter once maybe twice in 15-16 yrs but have filled RL125 with Tersa on Dual51 many times. According to the Felder site RL125 chip collection bag is 200 L (~53 Gal) but not sure how much one can practically fill, perhaps 40 to 45 gal.?
It happens much less often now with RL compared to early on. I can see that 30 gal filling quickly with the fluffy chips created by the Tersa head. The 15 min timer I installed as a filter cleaning reminder also helps.
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On Apr 1, 2025, at 1:44?AM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote: ? Today I did the mistake of not looking at the dust collector fill indicator when I joint/plane a 18" glue up (I swapped a bag 2 days ago and did minimal milling since then)
The entire cyclone and filter were full of chips. I spent something like 2 hours cleaning everything.
35 gallons aren't enough for this machine.
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Re: Felder AD941 vs SCM Fs41ES
Today I did the mistake of not looking at the dust collector fill indicator when I joint/plane a 18" glue up (I swapped a bag 2 days ago and did minimal milling since then)
The entire cyclone and filter were full of chips. I spent something like 2 hours cleaning everything.
35 gallons aren't enough for this machine.
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F700Z fence plate alignment issue
Has anyone here ever experienced fence plate alignment issues on their f700 series shaper? I’ve had an F700z shaper in the shop since August 22’. It appears that the outboard fence tapers in to the center making for a fence plate surface that’s not coplanar. Upon closer inspection today I noticed that the plate has a bit of play when tight. I’m able to flex the inside edge of the outboard fence out to be in line with the inboard fence. Is there an adjustment screw for the tightening mechanism that would sort this out or is my fence casting defective??  
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Hi Bryce,
I did not do anything, I am glad it is working again. I am impressed that you were able to join two sections of the tape, I would not have likely even given it a go.
Imran Malik
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On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:49?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote: ? Thanks for the reply Imran,
I checked the distance between the read head and the tape and it doesn't vary. What i did however just try, was zeroing the read head at 600mm and 800mm and then again at my known point of 86.1mm. Then when i put it back to 800mm it was reading correctly. I then put the fence to 700, then back to 100mm stopping to check every 100mm, and every time it was spot on regardless of which direction i was travelling. I really can't explain what happened. It's like it calibrated the readhead on the tape or something. Is that even possible? I thought the mag tape was based on alternating magnetic fields that were spaced 5mm or whatever apart. Again, i cannot explain it, but it looks as though the descrepancies i was getting are resolved.....Ok, after i wrote that, i realized i hadn't taken the fence off, put it back on and zeroed it again at my known point, so i just went and did that, and sure enough, it is reading dead on again! It looks like it's spot on thanks Imran, I don't know how you did it, but you did it!!! ?
I will have to keep an eye on this over the next few days or even weeks, and keep checking it. I will report back in a while and let you know what if anything i have found. Hopefully it is now resolved, and the issue doesn't occur again.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Hi Brian,
Yes the magnetic tape is definitely tricky to set up after having cut it. You are right about putting it down then cutting it being problematic. That was the problem i ran into the first time i put the tape on for the rip side. Unfortunately there is no other option other than cutting it though so the jointer table can tilt up. What i found after some trial and error, was that i could carefully reduce the length of one end of the tape little by little until it read exactly as though it were one continuous piece. I guess to the exact distance of the next pole? Anyway, i seem to have it reading correctly now after messing about with it. Even after taking the fence off and putting it back on, (then zeroing it) it is reading spot on. I can't explain it, but for now at least, it seems to be working as it did before i replaced the mag tape.
Thanks for your help on this one.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Thanks for the reply Imran,
I checked the distance between the read head and the tape and it doesn't vary. What i did however just try, was zeroing the read head at 600mm and 800mm and then again at my known point of 86.1mm. Then when i put it back to 800mm it was reading correctly. I then put the fence to 700, then back to 100mm stopping to check every 100mm, and every time it was spot on regardless of which direction i was travelling. I really can't explain what happened. It's like it calibrated the readhead on the tape or something. Is that even possible? I thought the mag tape was based on alternating magnetic fields that were spaced 5mm or whatever apart. Again, i cannot explain it, but it looks as though the descrepancies i was getting are resolved.....Ok, after i wrote that, i realized i hadn't taken the fence off, put it back on and zeroed it again at my known point, so i just went and did that, and sure enough, it is reading dead on again! It looks like it's spot on thanks Imran, I don't know how you did it, but you did it!!! ?
I will have to keep an eye on this over the next few days or even weeks, and keep checking it. I will report back in a while and let you know what if anything i have found. Hopefully it is now resolved, and the issue doesn't occur again.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Saw blade for cross cut.
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Bryce,
Maybe I'm not understanding what you have doen, but you have two? seperate pieces of magnetic banding? If that is so, you can not get accurate measurements as the "pole" distance on the tape is specific. There is no way to join two pieces of banding and have it work properly. You might be able to put a pieceof continuous banding down and cut it afterwards, but I suspect that would be problematic as well.
Only times I have seen problems with the mag banding I use/sell is if someone get a magnet too close to it and scrambles the magnetic signal of the banding.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Monday, March 31, 2025 at 03:55:19 PM MST, imran via groups.io <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:
I guess I am trying to ask if the issue occurs at any place along the path or in one location? You can zero it anywhere and check if it provides incorrect displacement.
Double check that the read head is not loose and distance and angle with respect to the tape is within spec. If you have another piece of tape you can check the read head against it however if it is only off by 1 mm that could be hard.
I have 4 DROs (3 M503) and all have the SS tape on top of mag tape with no issues.
On Mar 31, 2025, at 6:37?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote: ? Hi Imran,
No the zero'd position seems to be exactly the same every time. It's either side of that point that it drifts out. I have tried using a Starret measure stix on the magnetic tape before and found the reader didn't read at all, so wondered if the metal tape was the issue.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
I guess I am trying to ask if the issue occurs at any place along the path or in one location? You can zero it anywhere and check if it provides incorrect displacement.
Double check that the read head is not loose and distance and angle with respect to the tape is within spec. If you have another piece of tape you can check the read head against it however if it is only off by 1 mm that could be hard.
I have 4 DROs (3 M503) and all have the SS tape on top of mag tape with no issues.
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On Mar 31, 2025, at 6:37?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote: ? Hi Imran,
No the zero'd position seems to be exactly the same every time. It's either side of that point that it drifts out. I have tried using a Starret measure stix on the magnetic tape before and found the reader didn't read at all, so wondered if the metal tape was the issue.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Hi Imran,
No the zero'd position seems to be exactly the same every time. It's either side of that point that it drifts out. I have tried using a Starret measure stix on the magnetic tape before and found the reader didn't read at all, so wondered if the metal tape was the issue.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Fixing Felder X-roll short cross cut fence T-nut - AKA group buy of improved T-nut
Hello Netanel,
? I was wondering if you were able to get 25 people interested in this so that you could move forward?
Thanks,
?
Craig?
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Hi Bryce,
Is the issue only at the zero location?
Is it possible that the mag tape got damaged somehow at that location? The cover plate should not have any effect.
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On Mar 31, 2025, at 5:48?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote: ? Hi all,
Just thought i would give everyone using the M503 digital readouts a heads up on a potential issue. This may simply be a case of "you get what you pay for" & i'm ok with that sometimes.?
I originally used one of these DRO's on the crosscut fence of my old machine. Well i took that one off my old machine when i sold it, and have been using it on my new machine for the past year or so. It's been dead on accurate the whole time, so much so, i decided to see if i could make something work for the rip side of my CF741. That too worked, however i was never happy with the way the mag tape just hung in no-man's land at the gap between the saw/shaper table, and the jointer outfeed table. I figured that would some day become an issue, but trying to find time to fix the issue wasn't easy. Finally i put some thought to it, and added some aluminum angle to the saw side as support, and put on a new mag tape to get the join slightly further towards the jointer side, since the old tape didn't line up exactly.
This is where cracks started to appear in the system. I can only assume this is an issue with the magnetic tape, since that is the only thing i have changed, but now i don't seem to be getting an accurate reading. I can "zero" the fence to my known position, but then either side of that point, it seems to creep out roughly 1mm either side. One thing i have added this time around was the thin metal adhesive backed strip that is supplied with the magnetic tape. I assume this is simply to protect the magnetic tape? Could this be the casue of this innacuracy? I guess that is where i should start, by removing it, and seeing if the accuracy improves. If not, then it will be the tape itself & i will try replacing that.
I will let you know how i get on, but wanted to give others a heads up, since this has basically rendered mine useless until i sort it out.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
<New Rip side DRO 1.jpg> <New Rip side DRO 3.jpg>
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Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Hi all,
Just thought i would give everyone using the M503 digital readouts a heads up on a potential issue. This may simply be a case of "you get what you pay for" & i'm ok with that sometimes.?
I originally used one of these DRO's on the crosscut fence of my old machine. Well i took that one off my old machine when i sold it, and have been using it on my new machine for the past year or so. It's been dead on accurate the whole time, so much so, i decided to see if i could make something work for the rip side of my CF741. That too worked, however i was never happy with the way the mag tape just hung in no-man's land at the gap between the saw/shaper table, and the jointer outfeed table. I figured that would some day become an issue, but trying to find time to fix the issue wasn't easy. Finally i put some thought to it, and added some aluminum angle to the saw side as support, and put on a new mag tape to get the join slightly further towards the jointer side, since the old tape didn't line up exactly.
This is where cracks started to appear in the system. I can only assume this is an issue with the magnetic tape, since that is the only thing i have changed, but now i don't seem to be getting an accurate reading. I can "zero" the fence to my known position, but then either side of that point, it seems to creep out roughly 1mm either side. One thing i have added this time around was the thin metal adhesive backed strip that is supplied with the magnetic tape. I assume this is simply to protect the magnetic tape? Could this be the casue of this innacuracy? I guess that is where i should start, by removing it, and seeing if the accuracy improves. If not, then it will be the tape itself & i will try replacing that.
I will let you know how i get on, but wanted to give others a heads up, since this has basically rendered mine useless until i sort it out.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Totally unrelated question
Everything the plaster is used was the aluminum profile and when I did work at my house with Plaster, I don’t use drywall. I use steel profiles. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 31, 2025, at 3:24?PM, Stan K via groups.io <4279427@...> wrote:
? I did the same "shadow" thing in my house with jambs and baseboards using Trimtex z bead [1]. It was not the easiest thing to find, but two drywall supply stores within forty minutes drive stocked it in 1/2 and would bring in other sizes if you were to buy a whole case. (Incidentally, I still have half a case lying around if anyone wants to haul it out.)
If I were to do it again, I would try and use aluminum profile instead of the vinyl. The benefits of vinyl is three times less cost and much simpler installation. However, at least at my skill level, it is painfully hard to get consistently straight lines. Your mileage my vary.
1:?
On Monday, March 31st, 2025 at 7:49 AM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
Here are a couple pictures of a renovation job my neighborhood maybe 15 years ago first picture is 68 mm standard US store with a 56 mm jam then is the z profile and Plaster Second picture is a stationary sash 68 mm jams then Z profile than dry wall . In other words would to drywall with the reveal Mac,,,
<IMG_6395.jpeg> <IMG_6394.jpeg>
Designing and building for 50 years On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:18?AM, Stan Blaszczyk via groups.io <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case…I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
<IMG_6395.jpeg> <IMG_6394.jpeg> <publickey - 4279427@... - 0xCAA04E5D.asc>
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Re: Totally unrelated question
I did the same "shadow" thing in my house with jambs and baseboards using Trimtex z bead [1]. It was not the easiest thing to find, but two drywall supply stores within forty minutes drive stocked it in 1/2 and would bring in other sizes if you were to buy a whole case. (Incidentally, I still have half a case lying around if anyone wants to haul it out.)
If I were to do it again, I would try and use aluminum profile instead of the vinyl. The benefits of vinyl is three times less cost and much simpler installation. However, at least at my skill level, it is painfully hard to get consistently straight lines. Your mileage my vary.
1:?
On Monday, March 31st, 2025 at 7:49 AM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
Here are a couple pictures of a renovation job my neighborhood maybe 15 years ago first picture is 68 mm standard US store with a 56 mm jam then is the z profile and Plaster Second picture is a stationary sash 68 mm jams then Z profile than dry wall . In other words would to drywall with the reveal Mac,,,
 
Designing and building for 50 years On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:18?AM, Stan Blaszczyk via groups.io <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case…I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
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PK
imran
Dan Gavrilyuk
Bryce Comer
