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Hello all,
?
I have several O rings for Mac¡¯s clamps. ?Mac offered to send some replacements, but was?
gone over the holidays. ?He provided the specs, and we ordered some.?
I¡¯ve got 80 extra, so if anyone wants some backups, let me know and I¡¯ll mail them out to you.
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
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Re: Joiner/planer feed wheel.
Hi David,
?
We had the same issue with our 2004 CF741. ?Access is through the panel below the shaper elevation?
wheel. ?Behind that, to the left, is another panel. ?Remove that, and you can access the drive wheel.
It takes some finesse to work in the space, but it¡¯s not too difficult.
?
Our old wheel was ¡®re-covered¡¯, but we got the one from Felder faster and used it. ?That was three years?
ago. ?The cost was about $130.00.
?
If you need assistance, let me know¡
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors
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Re: Blade to Fence Capacity on BF6-41 w/retrofit fence
With pictures. Hope this helps.
?
Louis
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Re: Joiner/planer feed wheel.
Thanks Imran! ?I¡¯ll check it out!?
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On Feb 2, 2025, at 8:40?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Dave,
I don¡¯t have a machine with this wheel but it has been mentioned here that the wheel can be recovered. Just wanted to mention it in case Felder doesn¡¯t have it in stock or the price is too high.
Hopefully, someone can chime in if it is still a viable option. This is the place I had my PF wheels recovered. They may also be able to recover the wheel.
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This is another place I saved just in case but I have not used them.
On Feb 2, 2025, at 7:54?PM, David Merriam via groups.io <skivvvs1958@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Kevin. ?I¡¯ll call Felder tomorrow and see if I can get the part. It looks like I have to separate the joiner/planer from the saw/shaper to access the back panel to make the fix.?
Cheers, Dave
On Feb 2, 2025, at 7:02?PM, Kevin McGrew via groups.io <kmcgrew@...> wrote:
?
Given its age it would probably be best to replace all together.? ?I have a similar age AD731 and the urethane?on my wheel rotted and fell off in chunks one day under normal use.? This was about 3 years ago,? It was quick and cheap to order a new flywheel at the time.? ?Good luck.
Kevin McGrew
On Sun, Feb 2, 2025 at 3:18?PM David Merriam via <skivvvs1958=
[email protected]> wrote:
Sorry, pushed send without finishing my note¡
I appreciate any feedback. Thanks so much!
Dave Merriam
> On Feb 2, 2025, at 3:16?PM, David Merriam <skivvvs1958@...> wrote:
>
> ?Hi FOG group!
>
> I have a vintage 2001 CF 731. I over fed the planer and took a chunk out the tire like wheel that spins the feed mechanism.
>
> This group had such a vast amount of experience with Felder machines, I thought I might start here for recommendations on how to repair.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> <image0.jpeg>
> <image1.jpeg>
> <image2.jpeg>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
Thanks Steve. I¡¯ve probably been turning it too far as you say. Seems like a rare design flaw for an otherwise awesome machine.?
thanks for the welcome guys. I look forward to learning some new techniques. It¡¯s a lot different than my old PM66.?
matt
?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
As promised, I have attempted to reconstruct the history?of Bill Belanger printing an?adapter for the dust chute on my K3 slider.? Last March, the internal hose on my K3 failed.? Felder was out of stock on replacement hoses here and in Austria with no resupply expected any time soon,? Several members chimed in with their experiences of failed?internal hoses (mostly unhappy) and their attempted fixes (mostly not satisfactory).??
Imran Malik posted that his KF had a factory-installed plastic dust chute adapter that was easily removable to extract small cut-off slivers that couldn't make the bend in the adapter. Malik's schematic is attached.? Mlaik?later sent photos showing his adapter to be multi-piece, probably enabling the easy cleanout but maybe complicating?fabrication.? Somehow, the KF solution was not followed up.
Instead, someone, maybe me, found an existing adapter design for a C3 machine at?.? A copy is attached. The C3 seemed pretty similar to the K3 so Bill agreed to print a trial piece, subject to the dimensions which I sent along in a rough sketch, copy enclosed, with a photo of the chute,? Note the tabs on the chute which are shown in the photo and on the sketch.
Bill did a trial piece and sent?it to me.? It was admittedly light duty as a prototype.? I did not note the exact dimensions of Bill's model but the rectangular section fit snugly over my K3 chute and the cylindrical section inserted into a 4" flex hose.? ?I used a rectangularized?hose clamp (bent with vise grips) on the rectangular section and a regular round one on the cylindrical section.?The installation process was pretty awkward but everything went into place as planned.??This setup has worked fine for almost a year.??
The only slight drawback to this adapter is that small cutoffs can't make the bend and tend to pile up in the adapter.? Cleanup just takes removing?the?blade and snaking the?scraps out of the?chute with a long skinny screwdriver.? A zero clearance insert on the saw blade would also help.? A distinct advantage of the?bend is that long cutoff spears are not going down the chute and abrading the?flex hose which?should give it a longer life.??
I think Bill plans to do a beefed-up version.? I suggest that, to preserve the?good fit of the prototype, any additional thickness should be added to the outside of the rectangular?section and the inside of the?cylindrical section.? Bill slotted one end?of the rectangular section.? I would slot both ends to accommodate?the tabs on the bottom of the?chute and make installation easier.? I would extend the length of the rectangular section about 1/2"and put a lip on the top outside edge to make the hose?clamp attachment more secure.? I would also extend the cylindrical?section 1/2" for the same reason.? Obviously, I would like Bill to make me an industrial strength version of the prototype.
Brian Lamb commented that the C3 design was for 100mm hose.? I don't have the as-built dimensions of the prototype but my 4" hose slid?on and held fine with the hose clamp.? The 4" hose also works on the exhaust port of the K3.
I appreciate Bill's efforts and I want to pay him for his work
? ? ?Jim ? ??
James H. Fleming
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Re: Joiner/planer feed wheel.
Hi Dave,
I don¡¯t have a machine with this wheel but it has been mentioned here that the wheel can be recovered. Just wanted to mention it in case Felder doesn¡¯t have it in stock or the price is too high.
Hopefully, someone can chime in if it is still a viable option. This is the place I had my PF wheels recovered. They may also be able to recover the wheel.
|
This is another place I saved just in case but I have not used them.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 2, 2025, at 7:54?PM, David Merriam via groups.io <skivvvs1958@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Kevin. ?I¡¯ll call Felder tomorrow and see if I can get the part. It looks like I have to separate the joiner/planer from the saw/shaper to access the back panel to make the fix.?
Cheers, Dave
On Feb 2, 2025, at 7:02?PM, Kevin McGrew via groups.io <kmcgrew@...> wrote:
?
Given its age it would probably be best to replace all together.? ?I have a similar age AD731 and the urethane?on my wheel rotted and fell off in chunks one day under normal use.? This was about 3 years ago,? It was quick and cheap to order a new flywheel at the time.? ?Good luck.
Kevin McGrew
On Sun, Feb 2, 2025 at 3:18?PM David Merriam via <skivvvs1958=
[email protected]> wrote:
Sorry, pushed send without finishing my note¡
I appreciate any feedback. Thanks so much!
Dave Merriam
> On Feb 2, 2025, at 3:16?PM, David Merriam <skivvvs1958@...> wrote:
>
> ?Hi FOG group!
>
> I have a vintage 2001 CF 731. I over fed the planer and took a chunk out the tire like wheel that spins the feed mechanism.
>
> This group had such a vast amount of experience with Felder machines, I thought I might start here for recommendations on how to repair.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> <image0.jpeg>
> <image1.jpeg>
> <image2.jpeg>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
Re: Joiner/planer feed wheel.
Thanks Kevin. ?I¡¯ll call Felder tomorrow and see if I can get the part. It looks like I have to separate the joiner/planer from the saw/shaper to access the back panel to make the fix.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 2, 2025, at 7:02?PM, Kevin McGrew via groups.io <kmcgrew@...> wrote:
? Given its age it would probably be best to replace all together.? ?I have a similar age AD731 and the urethane?on my wheel rotted and fell off in chunks one day under normal use.? This was about 3 years ago,? It was quick and cheap to order a new flywheel at the time.? ?Good luck.
Kevin McGrew On Sun, Feb 2, 2025 at 3:18?PM David Merriam via <skivvvs1958= [email protected]> wrote: Sorry, pushed send without finishing my note¡
I appreciate any feedback. Thanks so much!
Dave Merriam
> On Feb 2, 2025, at 3:16?PM, David Merriam <skivvvs1958@...> wrote:
>
> ?Hi FOG group!
>
> I have a vintage 2001 CF 731. I over fed the planer and took a chunk out the tire like wheel that spins the feed mechanism.
>
> This group had such a vast amount of experience with Felder machines, I thought I might start here for recommendations on how to repair.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> <image0.jpeg>
> <image1.jpeg>
> <image2.jpeg>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
|
Re: Joiner/planer feed wheel.
Given its age it would probably be best to replace all together.? ?I have a similar age AD731 and the urethane?on my wheel rotted and fell off in chunks one day under normal use.? This was about 3 years ago,? It was quick and cheap to order a new flywheel at the time.? ?Good luck.
Kevin McGrew
On Sun, Feb 2, 2025 at 3:18?PM David Merriam via <skivvvs1958= [email protected]> wrote: Sorry, pushed send without finishing my note¡
I appreciate any feedback. Thanks so much!
Dave Merriam
> On Feb 2, 2025, at 3:16?PM, David Merriam <skivvvs1958@...> wrote:
>
> ?Hi FOG group!
>
> I have a vintage 2001 CF 731. I over fed the planer and took a chunk out the tire like wheel that spins the feed mechanism.
>
> This group had such a vast amount of experience with Felder machines, I thought I might start here for recommendations on how to repair.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> <image0.jpeg>
> <image1.jpeg>
> <image2.jpeg>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
|
I hope your new machine is auspicious. You will have good projects and good works. You have very experienced members in the forum. I am sure they will help you in this regard. Have a nice forum.
--
Burak ³Ò¨¹°ù±ð°ù
T¨¹rkiye (owner Ad 951-K740S-FB710-F 700 Z)
gurerwoodcraft/Instagram?
|
Matt,
?
I have found the same results as Steve¡¯s description on my B3. Ensuring the locking pin is not ? pressured ? against either side of the ? motrice ? is a good starting point.
?
I am sure you will enjoy your new machine. Having the shaper with the tilting spindle opened up a new world for me (just a hobbyist).
?
Keep us posted on your discoveries!?
?
Regards from the much less warmer White North
?
Jacques
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Re: Joiner/planer feed wheel.
Sorry, pushed send without finishing my note¡
I appreciate any feedback. Thanks so much!
Dave Merriam
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 2, 2025, at 3:16?PM, David Merriam <skivvvs1958@...> wrote:
?Hi FOG group!
I have a vintage 2001 CF 731. I over fed the planer and took a chunk out the tire like wheel that spins the feed mechanism.
This group had such a vast amount of experience with Felder machines, I thought I might start here for recommendations on how to repair.
Any suggestions?
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
Sent from my iPhone
|
Joiner/planer feed wheel.
Hi FOG group!
I have a vintage 2001 CF 731. I over fed the planer and took a chunk out the tire like wheel that spins the feed mechanism.
This group had such a vast amount of experience with Felder machines, I thought I might start here for recommendations on how to repair.
Any suggestions?
|
Do you just mean this knob here (shown on my K3 but I'm guessing it's the same)?? This will indeed get stuck if you turn it the "wrong" way.
?
?
Start with the slider in the locked position (as shown) and the knob set where it can be freely pulled out and released back in.? When you pull it out in order to unlock the slider, turn the knob slightly counterclockwise to get it to stay in the out position.? When you want to re-lock the slider just turn the knob clockwise a little.? If you turn it too far clockwise then it will get stuck.? What I do is pull and release the knob a few times to make sure it moves freely before moving the slider back into the locked position.
?
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Aloha Matt,
My B3 is from 2014 and so the mechanism may differ, but I have a long steel rod with a cranked end as shown in the image. Part way along this rod is a bolt that¡¯s used to add tension to the rod - you might try undoing this a little which may help. I took
the slider off as needed to clean it to make it slide better - you can probably access the bolt from below by sliding the table to the right when stood on the slider side of the machine.
Also I found that the ¡°lock¡± end (other end from the cranked handle) could be adjusted - maybe try moving it in towards the saw a little, assuming your mechanism is similar to mine.?
Hope this helps,
Morgan 
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On 1 Feb 2025, at 19:52, Matthew Brandt via groups.io <mkbrandt@...> wrote:
?
Hello all, I just took delivery of a new Hammer B3 at the first of the year and I¡¯m having a good time figuring everything out about it. I¡¯m on the Big Island of Hawaii and it was a trip for it to get here for sure but no shipping damage. The only real
issue I¡¯m having is the slider lock gets stuck sometimes and is very difficult to release. Anyone else have and solve this problem??
?
Matt Brandt
|
Hello all, I just took delivery of a new Hammer B3 at the first of the year and I¡¯m having a good time figuring everything out about it. I¡¯m on the Big Island of Hawaii and it was a trip for it to get here for sure but no shipping damage. The only real issue I¡¯m having is the slider lock gets stuck sometimes and is very difficult to release. Anyone else have and solve this problem??
?
Matt Brandt
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Re: How to install the gas spring for the main blade assembly
It's done. Took about five hours. I had a friend helping me, so I didn't have time to properly document the process with photos. To do the job again would take about an hour I'd guess.
?
Simplified Explanation
Loosen the nut at the rear of the handle to allow some movement to the right. Remove the screw securing the motor mount to the handle; this screw is attached to a length of hex bar stock. Push the handle to the right to disengage the motor mount, allowing it to drop and release pressure on the gas spring for easy removal.
Attach the gas spring, then pivot the handle back up and secure it to the motor mount. The hex bar stock on the motor mount has a protrusion that fits into a corresponding hole in the handle. Reattach the screw to the hex stock to lock the handle in place. Finally, tighten the rear pivot nut¡ªensuring it remains slightly loose to allow some movement.
Job complete.
While the table was elevated, I decided to remove the motor and replace the bearings. The front bearing was slightly noisy, and I want to avoid raising the table again if possible. The motor on my saw uses two 6206Z C3-grade bearings, but I¡¯ll likely replace them with 2RS bearings, as they generally offer better sealing.
The rear bell housing is secured with a C-clip from the inside (relatively rare), which must be removed before the bell housing can be detached. Additionally, the fan is press-fitted onto the motor shaft and must be removed carefully to prevent damage, as it is made of glass-reinforced plastic. To protect the fan, I used a flat bar with a U-shaped cutout to distribute force more evenly while prying it off.
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Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices
Btw, Trump's 25% tariff on Canadian?goods is coming. Looks like LeeValley still has the original price of $919 for now. Better to buy now if you plan to buy it :)
James
Sliding?dovetail joint is not difficult to make if you have a Leigh D4R Pro.
I sold my Leigh FMT Pro, my PantoRouter is far far superior than Leigh FMT Pro. But Leigh D4R Pro is a keeper, I made quite a lot of drawers with dovetail joints.
James
On Sat, Feb 1, 2025 at 11:37?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Benjamin,
Zinn Kitchens was a good outfit. I am not sure how they are doing now. Despite this very nice drawer feature, they would not produce inset doors/drawers - at least back in 1998-99. That was a big disappointment. We wanted to use them because they are only 20 miles from us and had good reputation, so really did not look around. I also had the thought that we probably would not want to pay what it would cost to have inset doors and drawers. On Feb 1, 2025, at 11:13?AM, Benjamin Thompson via <scribbleben= [email protected]> wrote: ? Imran, that is astonishing craftsmanship for a kitchen cabinet. Hats off :-)
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Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices
Sliding?dovetail joint is not difficult to make if you have a Leigh D4R Pro.
I sold my Leigh FMT Pro, my PantoRouter is far far superior than Leigh FMT Pro. But Leigh D4R Pro is a keeper, I made quite a lot of drawers with dovetail joints.
James
On Sat, Feb 1, 2025 at 11:37?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Benjamin,
Zinn Kitchens was a good outfit. I am not sure how they are doing now. Despite this very nice drawer feature, they would not produce inset doors/drawers - at least back in 1998-99. That was a big disappointment. We wanted to use them because they are only 20 miles from us and had good reputation, so really did not look around. I also had the thought that we probably would not want to pay what it would cost to have inset doors and drawers. On Feb 1, 2025, at 11:13?AM, Benjamin Thompson via <scribbleben= [email protected]> wrote: ? Imran, that is astonishing craftsmanship for a kitchen cabinet. Hats off :-)
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Re: Drawer Sides Best Practices
Tow out on the fence will only make the groove a few thousands wider than if it were perfectly parallel. It will still be straight.?
For a drawer bottom groove, you can skip the power feeder and use a continuous/break through fence and hand feed. Or just flip the feeder (I'd still use a continuous fence)
Thanks for the responses.? Hardware will be Blum Undermount.? Imran, like the style of drawer front but might be a tad higher grade for a bathroom vanity and with inset drawers NASA accuracy will be needed ;).?
?
Bryce, thanks for the steps and its what I was looking for. Question:? "I set my rip fence from the inside edge of the dado stack to the width of the back" - can't quite picture this and the rip fence has a toe out so how are the drawer parts sent through and have a straight/square dado?? My preference is use to use a dado on the slider but ss you suggested, I could use the shaper but would require rotating the feeder on its side.
?
Thanks!
?
Kamal
?
?
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Jim Fleming
.jpeg)
imran
³Ò¨¹°ù±ð°ù
