Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
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I've seen a 24", though the 16" are a lot more common.?
Newman made a great jointer.? I think 16" was the largest though.? Dave
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I've seen a 24", though the 16" are a lot more common.?
Newman made a great jointer.? I think 16" was the largest though.? Dave
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via
<joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Newman made a great jointer.? I think 16" was the largest though.? Dave
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I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via
<joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
FWIW, Here is a table showing the variation between outfeed and Tersa cutterhead and the knives on Dual 51. ? This was after I cleaned the slot and knives which improved the results. ? 
? Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations ? ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Patrick Kane via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2025 3:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31? Thats interesting. My no name?500mm jointer is also a tersa head, and i never stopped to consider not all tersa knives are the exact same spec. Are the carbide knives taller than the M or HSS knives? Kinda silly of tersa?if they are not consistent across the different steel types. That is somewhat of the selling point of the system. I havent?taken an indicator to my machine in years, but maybe i should.? To the OP, on a 12" machine, you should be able to hit .001" projection across the width of the bed. I found that to be fairly difficult on my machine. For example, the fence side is maybe .001" lower on the outfeed table. It is a delicate dance making the cutterhead body parallel?to the outfeed table and then the infeed table parallel?and coplaner?to the outfeed table. It is so easy for one adjustment to move a previous adjustment by .001-.002". You really can chase your tail for hours. I wouldnt?sweat it too much. Get it as close as you can and then just start working. If you have bad snipe or your workpiece is snagging on the outfeed table lip after the initial 1" of cut, then go back to adjusting. Im all for calibrating your given machine to the absolute best of tolerances, but you can drive yourself crazy for zero appreciable difference. For me, a .002-.003" variation across 12" is the "good enough" point for most machine setups.? ? On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 3:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote: I used to set my straight knife SCM with an indicator but don¡¯t find it necessary with the Martin jointer. I¡¯m back and forth quite a bit with tersa carbide and coated HSS on this machine depending on material and find the stick method as accurate as a dial and a lot quicker.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Thats interesting. My no name?500mm jointer is also a tersa head, and i never stopped to consider not all tersa knives are the exact same spec. Are the carbide knives taller than the M or HSS knives? Kinda silly of tersa?if they are not consistent across the different steel types. That is somewhat of the selling point of the system. I havent?taken an indicator to my machine in years, but maybe i should.?
To the OP, on a 12" machine, you should be able to hit .001" projection across the width of the bed. I found that to be fairly difficult on my machine. For example, the fence side is maybe .001" lower on the outfeed table. It is a delicate dance making the cutterhead body parallel?to the outfeed table and then the infeed table parallel?and coplaner?to the outfeed table. It is so easy for one adjustment to move a previous adjustment by .001-.002". You really can chase your tail for hours. I wouldnt?sweat it too much. Get it as close as you can and then just start working. If you have bad snipe or your workpiece is snagging on the outfeed table lip after the initial 1" of cut, then go back to adjusting. Im all for calibrating your given machine to the absolute best of tolerances, but you can drive yourself crazy for zero appreciable difference. For me, a .002-.003" variation across 12" is the "good enough" point for most machine setups.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 3:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: I used to set my straight knife SCM with an indicator but don¡¯t find it necessary with the Martin jointer. I¡¯m back and forth quite a bit with tersa carbide and coated HSS on this machine depending on material and find the stick method as accurate as a dial and a lot quicker.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I used to set my straight knife SCM with an indicator but don¡¯t find it necessary with the Martin jointer. I¡¯m back and forth quite a bit with tersa carbide and coated HSS on this machine depending on material and find the stick method as accurate as a dial and a lot quicker.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I use a dial too but my old jointer runs a large diameter head at 3600 rpm so I like all three knives to cut as the head turns more slowly than a belt driven machine.? Reduces the scallop marks.? Dave
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I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via
<joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
|
Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I don't really worry about what the spec is, if the tables are coplanar, adjust the outfeed so it just catches a straight edge the same ammount that you prefer across the width of the cutter.
-Karl
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Re: Saw hums and won¡¯t start
I wish I¡¯d used my circular saw. Not only because of what happened to my felder but also because of the saw dust generated and the dulling of the blade. ?The Trex particles seem to be everywhere inside my machine.?
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Hi Drumboy,
I sent you a private msg but not sure you saw it. You mention two threaded rods. By that, I assume you mean one on each table and it is the one pointed to by the red arrow in the pic below.
After studying the exploded diagram, the only function I see is that it is meant to stop the travel of the outfeed so that it maintains a safe minimum distance between the cutterhead and the end of the outfeed table. Green arrow point to the rod that adjusts the height of the table. Knob for that rod is not shown in your picture.
You can see the threaded rods (red arrow) can be adjusted laterally. I am not sure but I assume you are saying that it is too tall and interfering with the table installation. You can lower the height of the threaded rod to avoid the interference. It needs to be tall enough to stop the casting from traveling laterally.
My $0.02 until an owner with actual experience can chime in.
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On Jan 11, 2025, at 9:50?AM, drumboy122 via groups.io <drumboy122@...> wrote: ? [Edited Message Follows]
Hi guys,
?
Currently working on a "restoration of a fire damaged C3-31. Everything is going smoothly. Currently putting everything back together but i cannot for the life of me figure out the purpose of these two pieces of threaded rod (+washers and nuts). Is it an "end stop" for the tables or ? In the case of the outfeed table i cannot put the table in the highest possible position because the rod interferes with the table itself (its tapered). Meaning the "final position" of the table is where the end stop hits the table in its upright position and i can calibrate from that point onwards or the rod needs to be used in some other way.
?
Any help would be deeply appreciated ? <1736597936571797170286287052744.jpg>
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Hi guys,
?
Currently working on a "restoration of a fire damaged C3-31. Everything is going smoothly. Currently putting everything back together but i cannot for the life of me figure out the purpose of these two pieces of threaded rod (+washers and nuts). Is it an "end stop" for the tables or ? In the case of the outfeed table i cannot put the table in the highest possible position because the rod interferes with the table itself (its tapered). Meaning the "final position" of the table is where the end stop hits the table in its upright position and i can calibrate from that point onwards or the rod needs to be used in some other way.
?
Any help would be deeply appreciated ? 
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
This question comes up every 6-12 months. ?The link below will take you to a post from the archive on the topic - there are a lot of other posts as well if you just search the archive:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jan 10, 2025, at 9:29?PM, aaron.gatzke via groups.io <aaron.gatzke@...> wrote:
I have read from two different places regarding the height of the cutter head knife in relation to the outfeed table.
?
One said .001 inch above.
Another said .01 to .04 mm below
?
Any consensus on what it should be?
?
thanks,
Aaron
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Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I have read from two different places regarding the height of the cutter head knife in relation to the outfeed table.
?
One said .001 inch above.
Another said .01 to .04 mm below
?
Any consensus on what it should be?
?
thanks,
Aaron
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Re: Saw hums and won¡¯t start
Your saw should cut fine, but it might be rough on a quality blade. I thought that there were specifically sanctioned "Trex blades" from Diablo at Home Depot that are good for circ saws and chop saws. Diablo blades are likely cheaper to replace than?sharpening your K700s blades ... it's probably easier?to save your k700s's blade from sharpening and mount the trex blade in the chop saw.
Has anyone else successfully cut Trex on their Felder? By chance I am about to start a new project using some leftover Trex decking and I will shy away from it if this could pose a problem for my fairly new K700S.
It's not a huge project by any means and I do have pretty good dust collection.
?
As always, thanks in advance for any advice on this topic.
?
Dennis
Payson, AZ
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Saw hums and won¡¯t start
Has anyone else successfully cut Trex on their Felder? By chance I am about to start a new project using some leftover Trex decking and I will shy away from it if this could pose a problem for my fairly new K700S.
It's not a huge project by any means and I do have pretty good dust collection.
?
As always, thanks in advance for any advice on this topic.
?
Dennis
Payson, AZ
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Re: Saw hums and won¡¯t start
Sounds like the spindle or motor bearings have seized?? The whining noise could be an indication that the?bearings were dry and continued use and heat build up caused them to seize. The blade should spin freely.? I would start by removing the belt and determine if the motor or blade spindle is difficult to turn.
Kevin
I was cutting some trex on my BF 631 today and wearing a face mask so I didn¡¯t smell what might have been rubber burning. I did hear a whine that I thought might be a car alarm so I¡¯d didn¡¯t think anything of it until my saw stalled. I was able to start it again once but it hummed for a long time before slowing spinning up to speed. I turned it off and tried again and now it just spins slowly and hums. I¡¯m thinking maybe a piece of wood is jammed somewhere but I don¡¯t see anything and I¡¯m not sure exactly where to look. I have checked the belts and they look fine. The blade is a hard to spin by hand but i can¡¯t recall the last time i tried to spin it so I don¡¯t know if that¡¯s normal or not.?
Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Jeff
?
?
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Re: Saw hums and won¡¯t start
The shaper works as well. I¡¯ll follow the steps for retentioning the belt tomorrow and see if that helps get the blade spinning freely.?
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imran
David P. Best
Denno