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Gary, thanks for the detailed follow-up. ?I have been wondering how your project was evolving.?
Looking at and reading about how your machine is constructed, I would have to agree that it¡¯s like no other RL-160 implementation I have seen. ?Congratulations on owning a unicorn - it will surely enhance the resale value. ?LOL
I¡¯m curious what you ended up using for gasket material. ?I¡¯m also curious if you got the filter with the anti-static feature (which I put in last time and seems to have helped a bit with the WB fines not getting so packed into the pleats).
With the funnel plenum leaking and loose, it¡¯s amazing you weren¡¯t getting more junk being blown out the top of the machine. ?
I look forward to your filter brush automation project details.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Sep 28, 2024, at 12:38?PM, Gerry Kmack via groups.io <gerry.kmack@...> wrote:
Here¡¯s a status update on my RL160 filter change adventure:
?
- My 2008 RL160 is apparently different from all other RL160s that I am aware of. My RL has a single opening, on the narrow side where the air collection hose is attached.
?
there any other 2008 RL160 owners out there? I¡¯m curious whether anyone else has seen one configured like mine.
?
<IMG_2912.jpeg>
(This is the backside - no access panel here)
?
Filter Removal: Access to the filters is accomplished by removing this single panel, then 1st sliding the brush carriage completely out. Once the brush carriage is out of the way, the filter tray is released (by removing 4 socket head screws and two tensioning brackets). The filter tray then drops down into the space that was previously occupied by the brush carriage. Finally, the filter tray is removed by sliding it out, in the same way as the brush carriage. It¡¯s actually pretty slick, and when the filter tray is out, the entire inside is easily accessible from the underside, making removal (and replacement) of the old gasket material pretty straightforward.
?
One critical caveat, though: because the entire filter tray is removed by sliding it out the end of the machine, you must have at least 5 feet of clearance off that side (that¡¯s how long the filter tray is). Because of the way that my RL160 was installed, I did not have that much clearance - not even close, so I spent a couple of days working out a solution to that complication.
?
A surprise inside: Once I had removed the filter tray, I got inside. At the top of the newly-revealed cavity, at the far end (away from the the input hose), on the ceiling is an opening where the impeller is located.
?
<IMG_2927.jpeg>
?
(This picture shows the assembly, after being replaced)
?
The opening is covered by a 2 part assembly, consisting of a sheet metal disk with a hole in the center (that¡¯s what you can see in the picture). Sandwiched between this disk and the upper panel is another component which has a sort of funnel in its center - the funnel fits inside the impeller.?
When I first saw this assembly, it did not look like the picture. For starters, several screws were missing. Even worse, the entire assembly was hanging down below the ceiling by ~1/16¡± - 1/8¡±. On closer examination, I saw that almost all of the remaining screws were either unscrewed, or barely hanging on.?
When I removed the assembly and got a good look at everything, I realized that the the self-tapping screws that were used to attach the assembly to the ceiling were identical to the ones used to fasten the access panel to the side of the machine. The access panel connection only involves 2 layers of sheet metal. The ceiling assembly involves three layers of sheet metal. The screws used to attach the ceiling assembly were too short.?
I actually couldn¡¯t believe that it was still holding on. I ended up replacing all 14 screws with a slightly longer (+1/8¡±) and larger self-tapping screw.?
?
Summary - Filter change is complete! ?Initial tests show that the dust collector is moving a LOT of air - And no detectable dust is being emitted out of the top of the machine (It was pretty bad before the change).
?
Next action - David Best shared details of the pneumatic filter cleaning system that he designed and implemented on his RL160. I really like his design, and plan to implement it, or something very similar to it in the very near future. I like David¡¯s design because it¡¯s clean and simple, and does not involve extraneous electronics. I will post more on that when I get started on it.
?
Thanks to all who provided help, feedback etc.
?
Gerry Kmack
KmackStudios.com
Pagosa Springs, CO?
?
?
?
?
|
Members, i?apologize?if this is not the right forum for the question.?Does anybody have an EGL (or EGL) with a bracket for my KF700 that would like to sell?Please let me know.
Eduardo.
|
Here¡¯s a status update on my RL160 filter change adventure:
?
- My 2008 RL160 is apparently different from all other RL160s that I am aware of. My RL has a single opening, on the narrow side where the air collection hose is attached.
?
there any other 2008 RL160 owners out there? I¡¯m curious whether anyone else has seen one configured like mine.
?
(This is the backside - no access panel here)
?
Filter Removal: Access to the filters is accomplished by removing this single panel, then 1st sliding the brush carriage completely out. Once the brush carriage is out of the way, the filter tray is released (by removing 4 socket head screws and two tensioning brackets). The filter tray then drops down into the space that was previously occupied by the brush carriage. Finally, the filter tray is removed by sliding it out, in the same way as the brush carriage. It¡¯s actually pretty slick, and when the filter tray is out, the entire inside is easily accessible from the underside, making removal (and replacement) of the old gasket material pretty straightforward.
?
One critical caveat, though: because the entire filter tray is removed by sliding it out the end of the machine, you must have at least 5 feet of clearance off that side (that¡¯s how long the filter tray is). Because of the way that my RL160 was installed, I did not have that much clearance - not even close, so I spent a couple of days working out a solution to that complication.
?
A surprise inside: Once I had removed the filter tray, I got inside. At the top of the newly-revealed cavity, at the far end (away from the the input hose), on the ceiling is an opening where the impeller is located.
?
?
(This picture shows the assembly, after being replaced)
?
The opening is covered by a 2 part assembly, consisting of a sheet metal disk with a hole in the center (that¡¯s what you can see in the picture). Sandwiched between this disk and the upper panel is another component which has a sort of funnel in its center - the funnel fits inside the impeller.?
When I first saw this assembly, it did not look like the picture. For starters, several screws were missing. Even worse, the entire assembly was hanging down below the ceiling by ~1/16¡± - 1/8¡±. On closer examination, I saw that almost all of the remaining screws were either unscrewed, or barely hanging on.?
When I removed the assembly and got a good look at everything, I realized that the the self-tapping screws that were used to attach the assembly to the ceiling were identical to the ones used to fasten the access panel to the side of the machine. The access panel connection only involves 2 layers of sheet metal. The ceiling assembly involves three layers of sheet metal. The screws used to attach the ceiling assembly were too short.?
I actually couldn¡¯t believe that it was still holding on. I ended up replacing all 14 screws with a slightly longer (+1/8¡±) and larger self-tapping screw.?
?
Summary - Filter change is complete! ?Initial tests show that the dust collector is moving a LOT of air - And no detectable dust is being emitted out of the top of the machine (It was pretty bad before the change).
?
Next action - David Best shared details of the pneumatic filter cleaning system that he designed and implemented on his RL160. I really like his design, and plan to implement it, or something very similar to it in the very near future. I like David¡¯s design because it¡¯s clean and simple, and does not involve extraneous electronics. I will post more on that when I get started on it.
?
Thanks to all who provided help, feedback etc.
?
Gerry Kmack
KmackStudios.com
Pagosa Springs, CO?
?
?
?
?
|
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
Kory, Joe Calhoun has retrofit position indicators onto some of his shaper components (notably the feeder) to provide repeatability. ?I¡¯ve intended to retrofit my Felder 230 shaper fence with a position indicator but have yet to do so. ?Perhaps someone could figure out how to do this.
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On Sep 26, 2024, at 3:31?PM, korywat via groups.io <korywat@...> wrote:
I'm looking at SCM and Felder shapers recently and have come to think that the readouts on the fences may have a big impact on my repeatability. This is pretty important as I change cutter heads very often (1 shaper for my hobby shop).
?
Newer SCM Machines have a fence with a numerical readout. To me, this seems like it would be dirt easy to get the same fence positioning every time, because you just write down a number.
<inline.0.part>
?
VS the Felder fences have what looks like a less specific readout:
<inline.1.part>
?
I'm wondering what your experience has been using the Felder fence. It's not at all clear to me how "repeatable" a fence position is.
?
For background, I'm comparing similarly-specced and the F700Z. The F700Z is considerably cheaper but one of the main items that concerns me is the fence.
?
Thanks!
?
Kory
?
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
I did the DRO addition to the shaper fence... but it's complicated and required shipping the customer's fence here to be machined and modified. Not something i want to get into again honestly.?
I found the pictures from when I built it, maybe it can help someone that wants to do the same. In use, I don't know if Brett used it to repeatably get to a reading, if so, the DRO would have to be slid one way or the other to get to a zeroing position. Most likely, it offers the ability to make a close cut, then precisely move without having to break out indicators and such to get to final position.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 04:36:29 PM MST, Brett Wissel <brettwissel@...> wrote:
A few years back I had a fellow FOG member (who can volunteerthemselves?if they want) to? configure a Fiama unit on the F700z fence. It worked quite well and solved?many?gripes?I found with setup changes on that fence. Any setup changes however still required a test run or template piece? to return to *perfect* setups, though regular people may have never minded. I don't believe anything is good enough for DRO-only trusted?setups until you get to the upper stratosphere of shapers with CNC programmable settings, but that was as close as a 700 series was ever going to get.
The idea of an accurate DRO the fence is seductive to me.? I have a KF700SP and an F700Z. For me the DRO would have to be very repeatable, likely to +/- 0.001¡± for ,e to trust it.?
? Hi Kory,
I own the Felder F700Z, however, have not used it extensively. Especially not for repeat jobs after having changed Cutter heads back and forth.?
That being said, there have been a few times where I wanted to match the depth of a groove for which I had intentionally noted down the numeric value of the fence adjustment scale. It did not work for me. Not within any tight tolerance. The scale will get you in the ballpark,? but no better than +/- 1mm accuracy (if not worse than that).
I guess it depends on what you wish to accomplish.? The fine adjustment knob (3 in your drawing) works very well, honestly. So, if you are willing to run a quick test piece and tweak your fence, then you should be spot on in no more than 2 tries.?
If there are specific profiles you keep coming back to and you wish to match, then I would keep a small cutoff on hand and use the fine adjustment to get you where you want to be without much trouble.?
The question is obviously if the SCM dial is any better? I have no experience with it. It would interest me to know.
Good luck!
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft? Cyprus
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
Hi Mikelis,
I reread my msg and it was poorly stated. Yes, I was referring to the slop between the holes in cast iron table and the indexing pins under the hood.
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On Sep 27, 2024, at 3:10?AM, Mi?elis Vindavs via groups.io <mikelis.vindavs@...> wrote: ? Imran, have you tried tightening the nut for the thrust bearing on the microadjust threaded rod? Mine had multiple mm of slop, but after tightening, that problem has gone away. That said, the pins that index the fence into the table have a tiny bit of play, enough to rotate the whole fence by a smidge. I haven't yet figured out how to make it 100% repeatable.
On Fri, 27 Sep 2024 at 04:18, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I have a plan to add DRO to the shaper on my KF700. I am just waiting to build my tenoning fence and install bowmouldmaster so I am sure what I do is not going to be in the way.
I am glad to have the micro adjust on the fence but I agree it is not good enough to be repeatable.
There is a little slop in my shaper fence. I always push it back before locking it. I can see that in order to have a workable DRO, the fence would need to be adjusted while pushing it back. Unless I learn that the offset is predictable. ? I'm looking at SCM and Felder shapers recently and have come to think that the readouts on the fences may have a big impact on my repeatability. This is pretty important as I change cutter heads very often (1 shaper for my hobby shop).
?
Newer SCM Machines have a fence with a numerical readout. To me, this seems like it would be dirt easy to get the same fence positioning every time, because you just write down a number.
?
VS the Felder fences have what looks like a less specific readout:
?
I'm wondering what your experience has been using the Felder fence. It's not at all clear to me how "repeatable" a fence position is.
?
For background, I'm comparing similarly-specced and the F700Z. The F700Z is considerably cheaper but one of the main items that concerns me is the fence.
?
Thanks!
?
Kory
?
|
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?
How hot the motor runs seems to impact bearing life.? There are high temp grease bearings for motors but I don't know if they are universally used.? I do know my Italian motors run from very warm to hot in comparison to my Baldors.? Not saying all Italian motors
are like that, but at least the ones in my SCM machines.? Dave
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Hi Rod:
"The motor has no effect on bearing lifespan..."
Maybe an overstatement? If an F7 has minimum HP it is fairly hard to load up. And if an F7 is optioned with a monster motor, there is at least the possibility that it has been used with large loads.?
Perhaps, maybe, in some circumstances, it is possible to surmise that black and white statements, on occasion may not be quite, totally correct? ?
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer?
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
Hi, the 3 speed spindles for the 7 series are available in 30mm, 40mm and 1 1/4"
?
The motor has no effect on bearing lifespan, rotational speed and loads do, which is dependent upon what you do with the machine.
?
Regards, Rod.
|
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
Hi Kory,?
?
The Felder "230" fence currently available on the F700 and F900 shapers is sturdy and stable once secured, but it can be a bit fussy to set up. The in-feed fence is fixed relative to the hood, while the out-feed fence is adjustable. This is fine for applications where you want the fences aligned. However, if you want to make a "jointing pass" where you take a full 1mm pass, then you'll need to set up the in-feed fence for a 1mm cut, then adjust the out-feed fence so it's perfectly zero'd to the minor diameter of your tooling. With the proper setup tools (I prefer dial indicators) you can absolutely achieve this, but it's important to note that you'll be relaying on measuring instruments to perform these setups, rather than the markings on the fence, which only get you in the ballpark.?
?
The "250" fence on the Profil 45 machines is a slight improvement on the "230" fence, primarily because it has an electronic DRO for the primary (in-feed) fence position, and a mechanical DRO for the out-feed fence. This aids/speeds setups, and allows you to write down setups and return to them.?
?
SCM seems to have a few fences on the market as well, so it will be important to identify exactly what you're getting if you go for SCM. Looking at the catalogs, the fence on the Minimax T55ES is different from the fence on the stock Nova machines, which in turn appears different from the Class machines.?
?
The fence for the Minimax shapers looks very similar to the Felder "230" fence, with printed scales and vernier scales but not necessarily something you can use to "program".?
?
The fence for the Nova machines is a little hard to discern from the catalog. It appears it might have a mechanical DRO, but again it's not clear to me.?
?
Looking at my owners manual (which seems to be copy/pasted from a variety of configurations), it appears to me that even the base Class machines utilize a pretty rudimentary fence with printed scales, no DRO:
?
?
This is the "Flex" fence I ordered, which has separate, mechanical DRO displays for the in-feed fence, out-feed fence, and a single lever to lock down the fence assembly:?
?
?
?
?
?
The "Flex" fence package on the Class machines is great, and I strongly recommend going this route if you want to be able to reliably return to previous settings. This option (# 570212) includes:
-- Mechanical DRO for the (adjustable) in-feed fence
-- Mechanical DRO for the (fixed) out-feed fence
-- Single locking point for the hood/fence assembly
-- Swing-away arm assembly that allows you to swing the fence away from the table without needing to lift it and store it somewhere. This is very handy when you want to use the tenoning hood or a curved moulding hood.?
-- The fence has two stout positioning pins, which quickly and reliably locates the fence/hood assembly to the correct position on the table.?
-- The fence can be located in two different locations:
? ? ?-- The primary location is the "shaping" location, where the fence will retract to nearly the centerline of the spindle.?
? ? ?-- The secondary location is several inches behind the spindle, and allows through-milling operations when using router bits (see below, from the "Class" brochure). The displays on the DRO will no longer reference the center of the spindle, but they'd still be useful for making relative measurements and/or recorded settings. My machine shipped with three different aluminum insert plates to fill in the space behind the spindle when performing this type of operation, very handy.?
?
?
Frustratingly, SCM ships their North America machines with mechanical DRO set for decimal inches. One of my colleagues discovered this the hard way, but he was able to swap/retrofit with metric readouts. I ordered my machine with MM display on all DRO and scales, and made sure that was noted on the order form in bold before I placed my deposit.?
?
With the "Flex" package, I can reliably and consistently return to previous settings to +/- 0.05mm, which is sufficiently precise for me to produce doors/windows and not need to worry about snipe.?
?
If I were in your shoes, I would opt for a TF-130 or a TI-120, bone stock, with the "Flex" fence package, with MM displays. This will give you a tremendously capable, industrial machine with a good fence setup, in a package no larger than a T55. Looking at the SCM e-Shop, a stock stock TF-130 runs ~$13k, compared to the TW-55ES at ~$11k. The TW-55ES may have more features out of the box, but I would argue the TF-130 is a substantially more robust machine, and most (if not all) of the features of the 55ES (tenoning table, variable pitch with a vary-angle cutter) could be added to the 130 at a later time.?
?
If you opt for a Minimax or Nova machine, make sure you have a very clear understanding of what you're getting in terms of the fence, because from the photos it's not apparent to me what the fence functionality is or isn't. Adding an aftermarket DRO is of course possible, but by the time you spend the time and money to do so, you may wish you had spent the money up-front for an integrated, Factory build.?
?
I hope this helps....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
Imran, have you tried tightening the nut for the thrust bearing on the microadjust threaded rod? Mine had multiple mm of slop, but after tightening, that problem has gone away. That said, the pins that index the fence into the table have a tiny bit of play, enough to rotate the whole fence by a smidge. I haven't yet figured out how to make it 100% repeatable.
On Fri, 27 Sep 2024 at 04:18, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I have a plan to add DRO to the shaper on my KF700. I am just waiting to build my tenoning fence and install bowmouldmaster so I am sure what I do is not going to be in the way.
I am glad to have the micro adjust on the fence but I agree it is not good enough to be repeatable.
There is a little slop in my shaper fence. I always push it back before locking it. I can see that in order to have a workable DRO, the fence would need to be adjusted while pushing it back. Unless I learn that the offset is predictable. ? I'm looking at SCM and Felder shapers recently and have come to think that the readouts on the fences may have a big impact on my repeatability. This is pretty important as I change cutter heads very often (1 shaper for my hobby shop).
?
Newer SCM Machines have a fence with a numerical readout. To me, this seems like it would be dirt easy to get the same fence positioning every time, because you just write down a number.
?
VS the Felder fences have what looks like a less specific readout:
?
I'm wondering what your experience has been using the Felder fence. It's not at all clear to me how "repeatable" a fence position is.
?
For background, I'm comparing similarly-specced and the F700Z. The F700Z is considerably cheaper but one of the main items that concerns me is the fence.
?
Thanks!
?
Kory
?
|
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
I have a plan to add DRO to the shaper on my KF700. I am just waiting to build my tenoning fence and install bowmouldmaster so I am sure what I do is not going to be in the way.
I am glad to have the micro adjust on the fence but I agree it is not good enough to be repeatable.
There is a little slop in my shaper fence. I always push it back before locking it. I can see that in order to have a workable DRO, the fence would need to be adjusted while pushing it back. Unless I learn that the offset is predictable.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 26, 2024, at 5:31?PM, korywat via groups.io <korywat@...> wrote: ? I'm looking at SCM and Felder shapers recently and have come to think that the readouts on the fences may have a big impact on my repeatability. This is pretty important as I change cutter heads very often (1 shaper for my hobby shop).
?
Newer SCM Machines have a fence with a numerical readout. To me, this seems like it would be dirt easy to get the same fence positioning every time, because you just write down a number.
?
VS the Felder fences have what looks like a less specific readout:
?
I'm wondering what your experience has been using the Felder fence. It's not at all clear to me how "repeatable" a fence position is.
?
For background, I'm comparing similarly-specced and the F700Z. The F700Z is considerably cheaper but one of the main items that concerns me is the fence.
?
Thanks!
?
Kory
?
|
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
A few years back I had a fellow FOG member (who can volunteerthemselves?if they want) to? configure a Fiama unit on the F700z fence. It worked quite well and solved?many?gripes?I found with setup changes on that fence. Any setup changes however still required a test run or template piece? to return to *perfect* setups, though regular people may have never minded. I don't believe anything is good enough for DRO-only trusted?setups until you get to the upper stratosphere of shapers with CNC programmable settings, but that was as close as a 700 series was ever going to get.
The idea of an accurate DRO the fence is seductive to me.? I have a KF700SP and an F700Z. For me the DRO would have to be very repeatable, likely to +/- 0.001¡± for ,e to trust it.?
? Hi Kory,
I own the Felder F700Z, however, have not used it extensively. Especially not for repeat jobs after having changed Cutter heads back and forth.?
That being said, there have been a few times where I wanted to match the depth of a groove for which I had intentionally noted down the numeric value of the fence adjustment scale. It did not work for me. Not within any tight tolerance. The scale will get you in the ballpark,? but no better than +/- 1mm accuracy (if not worse than that).
I guess it depends on what you wish to accomplish.? The fine adjustment knob (3 in your drawing) works very well, honestly. So, if you are willing to run a quick test piece and tweak your fence, then you should be spot on in no more than 2 tries.?
If there are specific profiles you keep coming back to and you wish to match, then I would keep a small cutoff on hand and use the fine adjustment to get you where you want to be without much trouble.?
The question is obviously if the SCM dial is any better? I have no experience with it. It would interest me to know.
Good luck!
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft? Cyprus
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
The idea of an accurate DRO the fence is seductive to me. ?I have a KF700SP and an F700Z. For me the DRO would have to be very repeatable, likely to +/- 0.001¡± for ,e to trust it.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 26, 2024, at 2:54?PM, Cornelius <Cornelius@...> wrote:
? Hi Kory,
I own the Felder F700Z, however, have not used it extensively. Especially not for repeat jobs after having changed Cutter heads back and forth.?
That being said, there have been a few times where I wanted to match the depth of a groove for which I had intentionally noted down the numeric value of the fence adjustment scale. It did not work for me. Not within any tight tolerance. The scale will get you in the ballpark,? but no better than +/- 1mm accuracy (if not worse than that).
I guess it depends on what you wish to accomplish.? The fine adjustment knob (3 in your drawing) works very well, honestly. So, if you are willing to run a quick test piece and tweak your fence, then you should be spot on in no more than 2 tries.?
If there are specific profiles you keep coming back to and you wish to match, then I would keep a small cutoff on hand and use the fine adjustment to get you where you want to be without much trouble.?
The question is obviously if the SCM dial is any better? I have no experience with it. It would interest me to know.
Good luck!
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft? Cyprus
|
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
Hi Kory,
I own the Felder F700Z, however, have not used it extensively. Especially not for repeat jobs after having changed Cutter heads back and forth.?
That being said, there have been a few times where I wanted to match the depth of a groove for which I had intentionally noted down the numeric value of the fence adjustment scale. It did not work for me. Not within any tight tolerance. The scale will get you in the ballpark,? but no better than +/- 1mm accuracy (if not worse than that).
I guess it depends on what you wish to accomplish.? The fine adjustment knob (3 in your drawing) works very well, honestly. So, if you are willing to run a quick test piece and tweak your fence, then you should be spot on in no more than 2 tries.?
If there are specific profiles you keep coming back to and you wish to match, then I would keep a small cutoff on hand and use the fine adjustment to get you where you want to be without much trouble.?
The question is obviously if the SCM dial is any better? I have no experience with it. It would interest me to know.
Good luck!
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft? Cyprus
|
Re: Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
Hi Kory,
?
Not talking from experience, but when I considered a Shaper, the fence of the F700Z/F900Z was a notorious drawback. There are a lot of stories of people who upgraded/bought the Profile 45Z just to get the better hood fence with the DRO. (or went with the SCM version)
|
Felder Shaper Fence - Readout / Eepeatability
I'm looking at SCM and Felder shapers recently and have come to think that the readouts on the fences may have a big impact on my repeatability. This is pretty important as I change cutter heads very often (1 shaper for my hobby shop).
?
Newer SCM Machines have a fence with a numerical readout. To me, this seems like it would be dirt easy to get the same fence positioning every time, because you just write down a number.
?
VS the Felder fences have what looks like a less specific readout:
?
I'm wondering what your experience has been using the Felder fence. It's not at all clear to me how "repeatable" a fence position is.
?
For background, I'm comparing similarly-specced and the F700Z. The F700Z is considerably cheaper but one of the main items that concerns me is the fence.
?
Thanks!
?
Kory
?
|
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?
I always make black and white statements. ?I¡¯m often wrong, but never in doubt.? ? ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Sep 26, 2024, at 2:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
Hi Rod:
"The motor has no effect on bearing lifespan..."
Maybe an overstatement? If an F7 has minimum HP it is fairly hard to load up. And if an F7 is optioned with a monster motor, there is at least the possibility that it has been used with large loads.?
Perhaps, maybe, in some circumstances, it is possible to surmise that black and white statements, on occasion may not be quite, totally correct? ?
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer?
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
Hi, the 3 speed spindles for the 7 series are available in 30mm, 40mm and 1 1/4"
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The motor has no effect on bearing lifespan, rotational speed and loads do, which is dependent upon what you do with the machine.
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Regards, Rod.
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Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?
Hi Rod:
"The motor has no effect on bearing lifespan..."
Maybe an overstatement? If an F7 has minimum HP it is fairly hard to load up. And if an F7 is optioned with a monster motor, there is at least the possibility that it has been used with large loads.?
Perhaps, maybe, in some circumstances, it is possible to surmise that black and white statements, on occasion may not be quite, totally correct? ?
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer?
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
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Hi, the 3 speed spindles for the 7 series are available in 30mm, 40mm and 1 1/4"
?
The motor has no effect on bearing lifespan, rotational speed and loads do, which is dependent upon what you do with the machine.
?
Regards, Rod.
|
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?
Hi, the 3 speed spindles for the 7 series are available in 30mm, 40mm and 1 1/4"
?
The motor has no effect on bearing lifespan, rotational speed and loads do, which is dependent upon what you do with the machine.
?
Regards, Rod.
|
Kappa misfortune and advice being sought
About two weeks ago, I went to turn on my Kappa 590 saw and it wouldn't boot up.? Unfortunately, the SD Card that holds the operating system and tool data etc. failed.? The fix required the local agent attending and with a new SD Card he installed the OS from a USB stick.? (A backup was made at the time the machine was installed but this wasn't available as the tech needed to recalibrate the machine)
Sadly, there is no facility on the machine to backup the system so it can be restored in the event of failure.? So thuis doesn't bite me on the backside again, my intention is to remove the SD Card and on Linux using a disk imaging utility attempt to create an image and copy it to another SD Card and see if that works, but before doing so, thought I might ask if anybody else has attempted / succeeded doing this.??
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Another issue I have is re-entering the saw blade data.? I have a vague recollection of just entering the Felder part number of each blade and all the fields auto filled, but I haven't been able to achieve this since.? Having a quick read through the Felder manuals hasn't yielded what I'm after either.? Is anyone able to comment on how they add blades, please?
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Cheers
David
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Thanks for the info. ?Yes, it is a huge difference going from 75 to 62 db. ?Anyone in Southern California want a California Air 20 gal 4 hp?
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David P. Best
Gerry Kmack
imran
Tom Gensmer
Joe Jensen
David Luckensmeyer
rodsheridan
