Re: Exterior stave core construction and finishes
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Re: Exterior stave core construction and finishes
Exactly what I was thinking. Awesome Dennis! On Sun, Aug 18, 2024 at 2:40?PM dennisnmnyamamoto via <dennisnmnyamamoto= [email protected]> wrote:
Andy,
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I used Weyerhaeuser Timberstrand LSL for the core of an exterior door.? The finish dimensions are 84¡± tall, 38¡± wide and 2¡± thick, so larger than a standard entry door.? I planed the 1 ?¡± thick LSL down 1 ?¡± and applied ?¡± skins.? I used floating tenons drilling the mortises with a Felder FD250.?
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I live in the San Franciso Bay area where high temperatures are in the 80¡¯s and warmer, and it can go down to freezing in the winter.? More importantly humidity during the summer is 40-50% and the door does get quite wet during winter rains.? It is as flat as when I installed it 5 years ago, and it does not move throughout the year.? It is the only door that I have made, and I would definitely use Timberstrand LSL if building another exterior door.
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?? Dennis
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Re: Exterior stave core construction and finishes
Andy,
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I used Weyerhaeuser Timberstrand LSL for the core of an exterior door.? The finish dimensions are 84¡± tall, 38¡± wide and 2¡± thick, so larger than a standard entry door.? I planed the 1 ?¡± thick LSL down 1 ?¡± and applied ?¡± skins.? I used floating tenons drilling the mortises with a Felder FD250.?
?
I live in the San Franciso Bay area where high temperatures are in the 80¡¯s and warmer, and it can go down to freezing in the winter.? More importantly humidity during the summer is 40-50% and the door does get quite wet during winter rains.? It is as flat as when I installed it 5 years ago, and it does not move throughout the year.? It is the only door that I have made, and I would definitely use Timberstrand LSL if building another exterior door.
?
?? Dennis
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Re: Exterior stave core construction and finishes
Joe and Imran, I looked into Timberstrand LSLs. We used these for the headers in my shop.?
It does say doors and windows on it and that¡¯s what got me thinking about them.?
Mac the doors would be 45mm thick. Carbide cutters.?
I saw commercial stave cores for building doors at a large hardwood yard years ago. They have lift size stacks. This yard has since gone out of business. I suspect they are something a good supplier can bring for you.?
I¡¯ve heard LVLs are pretty high moisture content but I¡¯ve never tested. I¡¯ve seen commercial doors made with LVL core. That might have been special dried.?
? Andy,
LVL for stave core was at least a hot topic few yrs back when I looked into it. There should be a discussion here. There was one brand that was supposed to be the best option it was called timberxxxx? can¡¯t remember the actual name. If no one comes up with it and you are interested, I can try to find it.
The end result, for me, was that the MC is only guaranteed when you buy the full load from factor. Otherwise you are taking a chance. I decided to not go that route. I built a 2 1/4¡± thick door with 3-ply face glued cypress and it is doing fine. The other I found 60 yr old WRC and it is also doing great.
I also have been using Cetol. It is now sold by PPG under ProLuxe Door and window wood finish.
? Hi All,
?
Looking at doing 5 exterior doors, relatively simple design with a mid rail and panels with a divider for the lower portion, glass and muntins on top. ?
?
Having done stave core with cheaper wood species in the past, it's worked fine but I'm wondering about using LVLs in the build to speed things up.? I don't think the job is quite big enough to warrant outsourcing scantlings, or ordering prefab laminated rails.? Anyone have luck with this approach?? Any gotchas?
?
Also on the finishing - what's your go to finish for wood exterior.? I've always used Sikkens Cetol, is there anything better on the market? ?
?
Thanks All!
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Re: Exterior stave core construction and finishes
I saw commercial stave cores for building doors at a large hardwood yard years ago. They have lift size stacks. This yard has since gone out of business. I suspect they are something a good supplier can bring for you.?
I¡¯ve heard LVLs are pretty high moisture content but I¡¯ve never tested. I¡¯ve seen commercial doors made with LVL core. That might have been special dried.?
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On Aug 18, 2024, at 10:44?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Andy,
LVL for stave core was at least a hot topic few yrs back when I looked into it. There should be a discussion here. There was one brand that was supposed to be the best option it was called timberxxxx? can¡¯t remember the actual name. If no one comes up with it and you are interested, I can try to find it.
The end result, for me, was that the MC is only guaranteed when you buy the full load from factor. Otherwise you are taking a chance. I decided to not go that route. I built a 2 1/4¡± thick door with 3-ply face glued cypress and it is doing fine. The other I found 60 yr old WRC and it is also doing great.
I also have been using Cetol. It is now sold by PPG under ProLuxe Door and window wood finish.
On Aug 18, 2024, at 1:16?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote: ? Hi All,
?
Looking at doing 5 exterior doors, relatively simple design with a mid rail and panels with a divider for the lower portion, glass and muntins on top. ?
?
Having done stave core with cheaper wood species in the past, it's worked fine but I'm wondering about using LVLs in the build to speed things up. ?I don't think the job is quite big enough to warrant outsourcing scantlings, or ordering prefab laminated rails. ?Anyone have luck with this approach? ?Any gotchas?
?
Also on the finishing - what's your go to finish for wood exterior. ?I've always used Sikkens Cetol, is there anything better on the market? ?
?
Thanks All!
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Re: Exterior stave core construction and finishes
U don¡¯t mention the sizes of the Doors or the sizes of styles and rails and what kind of tooling you have to build with half paneling half glass how thick are the doors . I have only built 1,000 doors plus but all solid. I did set up one manufacturer with a stave core system, using poplar and quarter inch skins . With the popular finger joint material at least you can machine it to specific requirements. I¡¯d be a little hesitant to monkey around with LVLs with urea glue unless moulding and planing cutter heads are carbide? Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 18, 2024, at 12:16?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? Hi All,
?
Looking at doing 5 exterior doors, relatively simple design with a mid rail and panels with a divider for the lower portion, glass and muntins on top. ?
?
Having done stave core with cheaper wood species in the past, it's worked fine but I'm wondering about using LVLs in the build to speed things up. ?I don't think the job is quite big enough to warrant outsourcing scantlings, or ordering prefab laminated rails. ?Anyone have luck with this approach? ?Any gotchas?
?
Also on the finishing - what's your go to finish for wood exterior. ?I've always used Sikkens Cetol, is there anything better on the market? ?
?
Thanks All!
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Re: Exterior stave core construction and finishes
Andy,
LVL for stave core was at least a hot topic few yrs back when I looked into it. There should be a discussion here. There was one brand that was supposed to be the best option it was called timberxxxx? can¡¯t remember the actual name. If no one comes up with it and you are interested, I can try to find it.
The end result, for me, was that the MC is only guaranteed when you buy the full load from factor. Otherwise you are taking a chance. I decided to not go that route. I built a 2 1/4¡± thick door with 3-ply face glued cypress and it is doing fine. The other I found 60 yr old WRC and it is also doing great.
I also have been using Cetol. It is now sold by PPG under ProLuxe Door and window wood finish.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 18, 2024, at 1:16?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote: ? Hi All,
?
Looking at doing 5 exterior doors, relatively simple design with a mid rail and panels with a divider for the lower portion, glass and muntins on top. ?
?
Having done stave core with cheaper wood species in the past, it's worked fine but I'm wondering about using LVLs in the build to speed things up. ?I don't think the job is quite big enough to warrant outsourcing scantlings, or ordering prefab laminated rails. ?Anyone have luck with this approach? ?Any gotchas?
?
Also on the finishing - what's your go to finish for wood exterior. ?I've always used Sikkens Cetol, is there anything better on the market? ?
?
Thanks All!
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Hi Rod,
Tenons are straight forward. After cutting the piece for mortice, as you describe below, what is your preferred method for removing the waste in the middle? Chisel and mallet?
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On Aug 18, 2024, at 12:54?PM, rodsheridan via groups.io <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote: ? For bridle joints I use 2 saw blades with a spacer in a tenon hood
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regards, Rod
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Exterior stave core construction and finishes
Hi All,
?
Looking at doing 5 exterior doors, relatively simple design with a mid rail and panels with a divider for the lower portion, glass and muntins on top. ?
?
Having done stave core with cheaper wood species in the past, it's worked fine but I'm wondering about using LVLs in the build to speed things up. ?I don't think the job is quite big enough to warrant outsourcing scantlings, or ordering prefab laminated rails. ?Anyone have luck with this approach? ?Any gotchas?
?
Also on the finishing - what's your go to finish for wood exterior. ?I've always used Sikkens Cetol, is there anything better on the market? ?
?
Thanks All!
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For bridle joints I use 2 saw blades with a spacer in a tenon hood
?
regards, Rod
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Congrats, can't wait to see videos of it!
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Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
> Making youtube videos now!
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Congratulations on the new saw and good luck with the sale.
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Oh boy,
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Here we go.
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I went to IWF and compared everything.? After seeing Albert's L'invincible's outrigger I decided on a SCM L'invincible SI 3.
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Love my kappa 400 but I wanted a parallelogram style outrigger with digital compensation.? The 'Full Support' that Albert's saw has ticked all of the boxes for me.
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PK
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PK,
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What are you replacing the kappa with?
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Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
Making youtube videos now!
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Hello Everyone,
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I am selling my 2016 Format4 Kappa 400 x-motion located in Southern California.
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I am the second owner and the saw runs perfectly and is in very good condition.? I can send videos of whatever you would want to see about it running.
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Spec:
- 10hp 7.35kw 3ph
- 3200mm slider
- 1500mm outrigger with the large extrusion fence
- 2 axis automatic scoring
- Easy lock toolless blade system
- 1 digital stop on the crosscut fence, 2 analog stops
- Start buttons on the slider
- All Manuals
Accessories included:
- Mac's Clamps
- Brian Lamb Digital parallel guide
- 2 extra 3d printed crosscut fence zero clearance inserts
- Full surface support for the outrigger
- Slider handle
- Carriage for the outrigger
The cost of all of these accessories can easily be looked up and total over $5500 plus the Felder digital stop I added for $1300.?
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I am not in a hurry, as my new saw will not arrive for a while.
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I am asking $20k with Mac's clamps and $17k without them.
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I am posting here first.? I will wait a bit for all the other venues.
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PK
                    
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Re: Calling all bandsaw power feeder owners
Several years ago I designed and built a power feeder for my bandsaw. ?I resaw lots of 2x2 cedar, so it was designed for that purpose, and works quite well. ?I've since adapted it to my FB510. ?Here are some pics for inspiration...lol.
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Re: Calling all bandsaw power feeder owners
Murray,
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????? I find that it is good to have quite a bit of pressure pressing the board against the fence. Because even if you flatten the stock, there will always be the need to keep it as flat on the fence as possible the whole length of the cut. I find that with enough pressure and a carbide blade, I really don't have any problems with the quality of the cuts. I don't even consider blade drift. I encourage you to experiment with your feeder system and I'm sure you will figure out what you need. let us know what you find. ?? Tom Ruth
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Re: Calling all bandsaw power feeder owners
Joe,
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??? How do you like the comatic? One thing I see is that the rollers are not very high and so wondering how well they work on boards 10" plus in height? I do a fair amount of resawing 1/8" thick veneers and I find that my homemade 3 wheel pressure roller system puts even pressure on the full height of the boards so if there is some cupping, it tends to straighten it out. But I'm stuck with hand feeding unless I'm doing a ton of resawing and for that I do add a power feeder with varied results. I don't mind spending the money for a really good feeder that can do 10 to 12" boards, but I would hope that it works well. There really are not a lot of options on the market.
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Re: Calling all bandsaw power feeder owners
I have a Comatic AF110 bandsaw power feeder. It uses an air cylinder instead of a spring. There is a lever arm, so I¡¯m not sure of the power multiple. The feeder said to set the air pressure at about 60 psi on the regulator. mine has kind of a sawtooth cast-iron drive wheel. I find on smooth would like re-sign for veneer the hard steel wheel slips. I am looking to change to a polyurethane wheel.
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if undertaking the project you are, I would consider an air cylinder
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Re: Calling all bandsaw power feeder owners
Loving the ingenuity here.
My first thoughts 1. Friction - need more on the drive wheels. They look brand new out of the molds. Soak off the mold release with acetone rags and/or mineral?spirits and/or alcohol and/or lacquer thinner and compare results. Or surface with 80 grit. or glue on 80-grit abrasive. 2. Friction - need less on the sliding surfaces. Make sure table is slick. Make sure fence is slick and/or rollers. Big resaw feeder setups use robust roller fences. 3. Friction - make sure blade teeth are sharp and gullets are not getting overwhelmed with cut depth/feed rate 4. Friction - compared properly prepared boards that have smooth straight s4s jointed planed vs. bought off the shelf boards vs. rough cut boards. It's a big difference. 5. Tricky? - how to apply a good amount of tractive force, make it easily adjustable?(like air pressure and regulator setup) yet not slam with speed into the work. This I think is the biggest challenge you will next face. On Fri, Aug 16, 2024 at 9:40?AM Jonathan Smith via <jonathan.smith= [email protected]> wrote:
Murray,
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That looks like polyurethane tread on those wheels.? Given they are designed for a pallet jack, they are probably pretty hard.? A softer durometer or web center tire would allow some spring and grip better by contacting more surface area.? There are lots of suppliers out there.? You might get lucky and find just a tire that fits your wheels. ?? Don't forget to slick up the fence where wood makes sliding contact.? It makes a yuge difference on my thickness planer.
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Is that a DC stepper motor?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Joe Jensen
imran
rodsheridan
Larry Long Neck
PK