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Re: Wainscoting

 
Edited

The contractors I supply Millwork to build as Brian describes. Usually 1/4” ply attached to the walls then just lineal material we supply for the stiles and rails with butt joints at the corners. If done carefully it looks ok and easier than premade panels being installed. Especially going up stairs.
A while back we supplied quartered white oak doors and trim for a Victorian house and the wainscoting was done this way. The homeowner was upset when he found out the panels were veneered ply but I thought it looked fine. It’s possible to do all solid but will certainly make building more complex.


Re: Electrical question

 

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On 26-7-2024 23:12, David P. Best wrote:
Everything in that response from Felder looks right to me with the exception of the statement that the black wire is on L2. Traditionally, the L2 connection has been the brown wire, but there have been instances of it being wired incorrectly at the factory. ? I strongly advise you check the schematic and do some continuity testing when your machine arrives to figure out which color wire is actually on L2 at the Felder machine end.?

There is conventions...

Geen fotobeschrijving beschikbaar.

... but there seems to be no strict adherence (from the Felder factory) for phases and there colors, luckily they do agree on Neutral (N, blue) and Protective Earth (PE, green).

Traditionally in single phase systems L (phase) is brown, most likely there fore also for L1 (1st phase, in a three phase system).

Kind regards,

Jonathan from the Felder side of the pond ;-)



Re: Wainscoting

 

Marshall, in all the wainscoting I have seen, and personally built generally you put your sub straight over the entire wall; stiles and rails are just rectangular (cross section) then a molding with your profile between the stile/rail and sub straight. No reason to use solid sock if you are shooting for the “recessed” panel look. Even the stiles and rails can be laminated product if your using molding. Also putting the sub straight over the entire wall serves to “pack out” the wall so you get a nice dimensional look when installing a molding (chair rail) on top.?
Only when you can see the “B” side of a door, would you use the methods that you describe IMO?

Kind regards,

Brian D. Milidrag
Cell?248.765.8411


On Sat, Jul 27, 2024 at 10:15?PM Marshall Snodgrass via <mtsnodgrassdds=[email protected]> wrote:

I know how to do a few things but am certainly not a professional thus I am a bit confused as to how to proceed and have found little help online as to what I need to accomplish what I want.? Any help will be greatly appreciated. ?

I mill my own wood so various thickness are easy to acquire.? We are building a house and there are areas within the house I want to do Wainscoting 1/3 up the wall.? I am familiar with doing raised panel doors and have the shaper cutters to do them.? I can cut both rails and stiles sides and ends to they make a smooth connection.? The stiles and rails will have a groove for the raised pale to fit into and then where rails and stiles meet there is a reverse of the pattern which creates a smooth fit.? My dilemma is that the shapers I have cut with the groove, but I want to do a rabbet joint for a flat panel to fit into back of the stiles and rails and want the stiles and rails shaped with a pattern which would show in front of the flat panel.? In order to get a nice appearance the end of the stiles must be cut to fit smooth against the rails.? I have searched for stile and rail cutters that do not cut the groove for the raised panel.? In theory I could cut with my regular shaper cutter and slide the flat panel into the groove.? My choice would be to have rabbet joint directly against the wall.? If I have failed to explain this I apologize.? Please ask questions. ?

If you have ideas of what shaper cutters would do the patten on the rails and stiles I would appreciate it.? I plan to do the rabbet with the Dado cutter.? I am using a Hammer c3-31. ?
?
Thank you for suggestions. ?


Re: Wainscoting

 

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Few more from 30’s

IMG_4741IMG_4742IMG_4743IMG_4744IMG_4745


martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 28, 2024, at 9:49?AM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:

?
Ideas
Snap shots from a series of hard bound books I have this one is from 30’s
I have 3 different vintage books from 30’s back to 1890 ?for sale $125 .00 each?
Contact me off fog if interested.
Mac,,


<IMG_4747.jpeg>
<IMG_4745.jpeg>
<IMG_4746.jpeg>
<IMG_4744.jpeg>

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 28, 2024, at 8:21?AM, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:

?

Marshall,
I think you are talking about making the cope and stick to allow you to insert a panel (glass typically) from the back?

The attached infinity cutter set has that option.


Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
<Screenshot_20240728-081356.png>


Re: Wainscoting

 

开云体育

Ideas
Snap shots from a series of hard bound books I have this one is from 30’s
I have 3 different vintage books from 30’s back to 1890 ?for sale $125 .00 each?
Contact me off fog if interested.
Mac,,


IMG_4747IMG_4745IMG_4746IMG_4744

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 28, 2024, at 8:21?AM, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:

?

Marshall,
I think you are talking about making the cope and stick to allow you to insert a panel (glass typically) from the back?

The attached infinity cutter set has that option.


Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
<Screenshot_20240728-081356.png>


Re: Wainscoting

 

Marshall,
I think you are talking about making the cope and stick to allow you to insert a panel (glass typically) from the back?

The attached infinity cutter set has that option.


Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


Re: Wainscoting

 

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This is not answering your question but may give you some ideas.


Imran Malik

On Jul 27, 2024, at 10:15?PM, Marshall Snodgrass via groups.io <mtsnodgrassdds@...> wrote:

?
I know how to do a few things but am certainly not a professional thus I am a bit confused as to how to proceed and have found little help online as to what I need to accomplish what I want. ?Any help will be greatly appreciated. ?

I mill my own wood so various thickness are easy to acquire. ?We are building a house and there are areas within the house I want to do Wainscoting 1/3 up the wall. ?I am familiar with doing raised panel doors and have the shaper cutters to do them. ?I can cut both rails and stiles sides and ends to they make a smooth connection. ?The stiles and rails will have a groove for the raised pale to fit into and then where rails and stiles meet there is a reverse of the pattern which creates a smooth fit. ?My dilemma is that the shapers I have cut with the groove, but I want to do a rabbet joint for a flat panel to fit into back of the stiles and rails and want the stiles and rails shaped with a pattern which would show in front of the flat panel. ?In order to get a nice appearance the end of the stiles must be cut to fit smooth against the rails. ?I have searched for stile and rail cutters that do not cut the groove for the raised panel. ?In theory I could cut with my regular shaper cutter and slide the flat panel into the groove. ?My choice would be to have rabbet joint directly against the wall. ?If I have failed to explain this I apologize. ?Please ask questions. ?

If you have ideas of what shaper cutters would do the patten on the rails and stiles I would appreciate it. ?I plan to do the rabbet with the Dado cutter. ?I am using a Hammer c3-31. ?
?
Thank you for suggestions. ?


Re: Wainscoting

 

You might have to run the profile separately and do jack miters. Then you could rabbet the back. Or just run your shaper cutters and cut the back part of the groove off. All more steps than a dedicated cutter that you are looking?for, but it should work.


On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 9:15?PM Marshall Snodgrass via <mtsnodgrassdds=[email protected]> wrote:
I know how to do a few things but am certainly not a professional thus I am a bit confused as to how to proceed and have found little help online as to what I need to accomplish what I want.? Any help will be greatly appreciated. ?

I mill my own wood so various thickness are easy to acquire.? We are building a house and there are areas within the house I want to do Wainscoting 1/3 up the wall.? I am familiar with doing raised panel doors and have the shaper cutters to do them.? I can cut both rails and stiles sides and ends to they make a smooth connection.? The stiles and rails will have a groove for the raised pale to fit into and then where rails and stiles meet there is a reverse of the pattern which creates a smooth fit.? My dilemma is that the shapers I have cut with the groove, but I want to do a rabbet joint for a flat panel to fit into back of the stiles and rails and want the stiles and rails shaped with a pattern which would show in front of the flat panel.? In order to get a nice appearance the end of the stiles must be cut to fit smooth against the rails.? I have searched for stile and rail cutters that do not cut the groove for the raised panel.? In theory I could cut with my regular shaper cutter and slide the flat panel into the groove.? My choice would be to have rabbet joint directly against the wall.? If I have failed to explain this I apologize.? Please ask questions. ?

If you have ideas of what shaper cutters would do the patten on the rails and stiles I would appreciate it.? I plan to do the rabbet with the Dado cutter.? I am using a Hammer c3-31. ?
?
Thank you for suggestions. ?


Wainscoting

 

I know how to do a few things but am certainly not a professional thus I am a bit confused as to how to proceed and have found little help online as to what I need to accomplish what I want. ?Any help will be greatly appreciated. ?

I mill my own wood so various thickness are easy to acquire. ?We are building a house and there are areas within the house I want to do Wainscoting 1/3 up the wall. ?I am familiar with doing raised panel doors and have the shaper cutters to do them. ?I can cut both rails and stiles sides and ends to they make a smooth connection. ?The stiles and rails will have a groove for the raised pale to fit into and then where rails and stiles meet there is a reverse of the pattern which creates a smooth fit. ?My dilemma is that the shapers I have cut with the groove, but I want to do a rabbet joint for a flat panel to fit into back of the stiles and rails and want the stiles and rails shaped with a pattern which would show in front of the flat panel. ?In order to get a nice appearance the end of the stiles must be cut to fit smooth against the rails. ?I have searched for stile and rail cutters that do not cut the groove for the raised panel. ?In theory I could cut with my regular shaper cutter and slide the flat panel into the groove. ?My choice would be to have rabbet joint directly against the wall. ?If I have failed to explain this I apologize. ?Please ask questions. ?

If you have ideas of what shaper cutters would do the patten on the rails and stiles I would appreciate it. ?I plan to do the rabbet with the Dado cutter. ?I am using a Hammer c3-31. ?
?
Thank you for suggestions. ?


Re: Minimax cu300 smart capacitor

 

开云体育

Hi Ron,

Typically there is a start (usually larger capacitance) and a run capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are built with two foil strips (+ & -) with welded terminals which are separated by another 2 strips of electrolyte impregnated paper. This 4 layer strip is rolled into a cigar and put into the can. Electrolytic caps have a defined useful life. The ones that survive the early failure usually fail due to wear out mechanism. Most likely it is just the cap, if the motor runs as usual.

Imran Malik

On Jul 26, 2024, at 8:04?PM, Ron zemel via groups.io <rzemel3@...> wrote:

?
The planner motor in my Minimax cu300 was working fine but when I attempted to restart after using it for a while it ?just hummed. The capacitor had a huge hole burnt through it. After replacing the capacitor it now starts right up. Are both capacitors running capacitors or is one a starting capacitor? Is there a centrifugal switch in the motor that could have caused it? Not sure what caused the burnout. Any suggestions would be much appreciated


Re: Electrical question

 

Liz is awesome, she is my rep.


On Fri, Jul 26, 2024, 4:10?PM John Hinman via <jhinman1911=[email protected]> wrote:
I received this document via the Felder rep in Sacramento, Elizabeth Rogers. It is not consistent with Mr. Dingus’ message. This shows brown as the L2 wire.

?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


Minimax cu300 smart capacitor

 

The planner motor in my Minimax cu300 was working fine but when I attempted to restart after using it for a while it ?just hummed. The capacitor had a huge hole burnt through it. After replacing the capacitor it now starts right up. Are both capacitors running capacitors or is one a starting capacitor? Is there a centrifugal switch in the motor that could have caused it? Not sure what caused the burnout. Any suggestions would be much appreciated


Re: Electrical question

 

开云体育

This may help explain:


David Best - via mobile phone?

On Jul 26, 2024, at 4:10?PM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?
I received this document via the Felder rep in Sacramento, Elizabeth Rogers. It is not consistent with Mr. Dingus’ message. This shows brown as the L2 wire.

<IMG_3085.jpeg>
?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


Minimax cu300 smart capacitor

 

A capacitor on my surfacing motor had a hole burnt through it the size of a 50 cent piece. I was planning some boards turned it off for around a half hour and when I attempted to restart it, it just hummed. I had the capacitor replaced and now,at least so far, is working just fine. I still don’t know what would cause this burn out. Are both capacitors running capacitors or is one of them a starting capacitor? Is there a centrifugal switch in the motor that would possibly be the culprit?
Any feedback would be much appreciated


Re: Electrical question

 

I received this document via the Felder rep in Sacramento, Elizabeth Rogers. It is not consistent with Mr. Dingus’ message. This shows brown as the L2 wire.

?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


Re: Electrical question

 

开云体育

Haha! John. At least “Best” is easy to spell. Some people make an absolute mess of my surname. Even after 27 years of marriage my mother-in-law still refers to me as “that Glockenspiel” boy. “Lucky” is a good compromise!

Warm regards,
Lucky

Dr David Luckensmeyer


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...>
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2024 8:55:42 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Electrical question
?
Bummer about the name, David. I guess we can not all be …. Lucky.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


Re: Electrical question

 

Bummer about the name, David. I guess we can not all be …. Lucky.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


Re: Kit to add Fiama F8P to Felder Rip Fence

 

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Hi Jim,

Sent you a private message.

Imran Malik

On Jul 26, 2024, at 4:39?PM, Jim Dayton via groups.io <jd74914@...> wrote:

?
I’d like that Imran. Can’t figure out how to message you privately though.?

James

On Fri, Jul 26, 2024 at 4:35?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
My friend printed this DRO kit but ended up with a minor imperfection on the rear; see blue arrows in the pic. It is $30 shipped to the lower 48.

Fiama offers long battery life and one button push to switch between fence hi/lo postions.

Comes with detailed instructions. Pics show installation on my K975 saw.

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>


Imran Malik


Re: Electrical question

 

开云体育

Everything in that response from Felder looks right to me with the exception of the statement that the black wire is on L2. Traditionally, the L2 connection has been the brown wire, but there have been instances of it being wired incorrectly at the factory. ? I strongly advise you check the schematic and do some continuity testing when your machine arrives to figure out which color wire is actually on L2 at the Felder machine end. ?

As an aside, with my particular last name, I have been the butt of countless jokes (“David Worst” et al), but I can’t imagine what this Felder tech experiences with a last name “Dingus”. ?I feel for the guy. ??

David Best - via mobile phone?

On Jul 26, 2024, at 8:55?AM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?
This is the response from Felder. Yes, it was a quick response (40 minutes total).
?
Hi John,

The machine will require 3 legs of power and a ground (no neutral wire is required). The machine's power cable will have Brown, Black, and Grey wires for the power legs, a Green and Yellow wire for ground, and it may have a Blue wire. The blue wire would only be used for a neutral wire in Europe - here in the USA, the blue wire is not used, so it can just be cut off. Generally we recommend connecting your high leg to Leg 2 in the machine. On your machine this will be the black wire in the machine's power cable.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.


Best Regards

Phillip Dingus

FELDER GROUP USA
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


Re: Kit to add Fiama F8P to Felder Rip Fence

 

I’d like that Imran. Can’t figure out how to message you privately though.?

James

On Fri, Jul 26, 2024 at 4:35?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
My friend printed this DRO kit but ended up with a minor imperfection on the rear; see blue arrows in the pic. It is $30 shipped to the lower 48.

Fiama offers long battery life and one button push to switch between fence hi/lo postions.

Comes with detailed instructions. Pics show installation on my K975 saw.

image0.jpegimage1.jpegimage3.jpeg

Imran Malik