Hammer C-3-31 motor turning off after minutes of use
Greetings fellow woodworkers,
I bought my machine from the Sac. Ca. Felder group around 15+ years ago.
It was a demo unit marked down and did have some issues, the main one being underpowered with 2.2KW motors. ?After a descent amount of correspondence they sent me 3 new motors that are 3KW instead and made all the difference in power.
I recall Mark Mullnehour advised I should adjust something for the power difference, but dont recall what it is and I forgot about it and now my machine cuts out if used for a short time and have to reset the main switch after waiting 3-5 minutes which is very inconvenient. ?Im not sure if this is from changing motors without adjusting any settings, or another issue. ?
I did have to seek out and hire an electrician to do the motor swap connection part and he didnt have any info about changing settings for the new motor.
Does anyone have any insight on this issue here? ? ? ? I really appreciate any input.
I want to offer some advice that worked for a different issue as follows; Another issue the demo machine had was it has a vibration that transfers to the blade and effects the cutting which is really rough with any veneer plywood etc¡.Felder wasnt going to do anymore troubleshooting on it so I ordered a stabilizer for the table saw part from ¡°Forrest¡± and it dramatically dampened the vibration, so I thought I¡¯d offer this advice for anyone with the same issue. Thank you,
Philip Snyder, pswoodworking.com
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Re: Power feeder setup on a shaper (Comatic DC40)
Lube. A spritz of mineral spirits in a spray bottle or a rub of some paraffin wax block. On the base table and possibly the fence. Often I swipe just the infeed contact points before the feeder grabs for safety clearances (no hands anywhere dangerous) and the lube drags through on its own. It takes very little to make difference and you'll identify what symptoms mean you need to add more. If you are new to the power feeder, you may also find the pressure running through will help self polish critical surfaces after a couple hundred or thousand feet run across the contact surfaces too.
Also big difference from texture of the wood running through, rough milled through fine sanded makes a difference in power feeder grab and contact surface friction.
Happy experimenting!
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Re: Power feeder setup on a shaper (Comatic DC40)
The vibrations don't have any effect on the cut, it cuts clean it just doesn't feel right. I'm attaching photos of the setup
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Re: Power feeder setup on a shaper (Comatic DC40)
JDhm, ? It would help if you share a pic of your setup and the milled piece showing the effect of the vibration. ? Imran Malik ? ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of JDhm via groups.io Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2024 8:37 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [FOG] Power feeder setup on a shaper (Comatic DC40) ? I recently added the Comatic DC40 to my f700z. I ran some stiles for shaker doors and when cutting, mid profile I get some vibrations. I'm not sure if the wheels are slipping and would really appreciate if anyone can advice what might cause the vibration and also how to adjust the feeder correctly- I set it about 5-6mm lower than the thickness of the profile and about 10mm difference between back to front (angled in)
TIA
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Power feeder setup on a shaper (Comatic DC40)
I recently added the Comatic DC40 to my f700z. I ran some stiles for shaker doors and when cutting, mid profile I get some vibrations. I'm not sure if the wheels are slipping and would really appreciate if anyone can advice what might cause the vibration and also how to adjust the feeder correctly- I set it about 5-6mm lower than the thickness of the profile and about 10mm difference between back to front (angled in)
TIA
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Hi David B and Michael:
?
Funny you should mention the flatbed CNC. Although not the same, I have been pondering how much use I¡¯d get out of a Shaper Origin. That tool would fit nicely somewhere in my shop!
?
Thanks David for your vote on the vertical method. I think the clean corners are swaying me strongly for that option. I¡¯ve wondered if I make a very accurate registration jig and use a small pattern bit (I
can get an 8mm dia. bit from across town) to establish the majority of the 20mm flat across the joint, then there would be very little chisel work at all:
?
- corners squared by the saw blade
- majority of waste drilled out
- shoulder established by the pattern bit
- minor chisel work to finish.
?
Your jig making has always been a source of inspiration for me. Your lock mitre jig is especially egregious! I absolutely love it. Of course, now I know I should have made a much larger vertical jig that does
not depend on the crosscut fence for registration. Something like what you¡¯ve done would have been much better. Cheers.
?
Lucky
?
I actually like your original concept of using the rip as a bump-stop, a 400mm blade cutting both edges, and a jig on the crosscut fence to hold the material vertically. ?Here¡¯s a couple more jig I¡¯ve made
to stimulate your thinking. ?I could quibble over the actual jig configuration (hence these photos of jigs I¡¯ve made to hold vertical materials on the slider as food for thought).
This is for cutting lock miter joints:?
 ??
This one is for finger joints - which is a shallower type of thing you are doing:
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Show quoted text
On Jul 9, 2024, at 3:18?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Oh wow! The video came through. I love it. No one would even think the drawer is there! Thanks for sharing.
?
Lucky
?
Lucky, as I further thought about my suggestion I realized it was lunacy. I think you are correct about returning to the horizontal setup. I know we are talking about a lot of work for 280 repititions!?
I had a few do overs and re-designs as I progressed but ultimately was very happy with the result.?
To answer?your question, it is a drawer that holds DVD¡¯s on the bottom level, and Blu-rays on the top level as they are both different size cases. The drawer was incorporated into a raised panel staircase
I built 30 years earlier and had always planned to make a drawer similar.
There is hopefully an attached video below showing final install??
The CMT was excellent; best dado I ever had but I ran it on a cabinet saw, not on my K700S. I used a simple ¡°box joint jig¡± that we all learned in woodworking 101 but made a mistake thinking I could do the
sides separately and still have things line up. A couple of tries changing methodology were necessary. The drawer empty without the drawer front was over 75 lbs made of Maple. I used Blum slides (Blumotion) with ?¡°Tip-on¡± added for push to open tech to eliminate
visible exterior hardware.
?
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 5:41?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Imran:
?
Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup,
I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
?
You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to
mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not
run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark a line and use a chisel
to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either option A or B above to
clean up the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then square up the joint
using option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I
find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
?
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
I actually like your original concept of using the rip as a bump-stop, a 400mm blade cutting both edges, and a jig on the crosscut fence to hold the material vertically. ?Here¡¯s a couple more jig I¡¯ve made to stimulate your thinking. ?I could quibble over the actual jig configuration (hence these photos of jigs I¡¯ve made to hold vertical materials on the slider as food for thought).
This is for cutting lock miter joints:?
 ??
This one is for finger joints - which is a shallower type of thing you are doing:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 9, 2024, at 3:18?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Oh wow! The video came through. I love it. No one would even think the drawer is there! Thanks for sharing. ? Lucky ?
Lucky, as I further thought about my suggestion I realized it was lunacy. I think you are correct about returning to the horizontal setup. I know we are talking about a lot of work for 280 repititions!?
I had a few do overs and re-designs as I progressed but ultimately was very happy with the result.?
To answer?your question, it is a drawer that holds DVD¡¯s on the bottom level, and Blu-rays on the top level as they are both different size cases. The drawer was incorporated into a raised panel staircase
I built 30 years earlier and had always planned to make a drawer similar.
There is hopefully an attached video below showing final install??
The CMT was excellent; best dado I ever had but I ran it on a cabinet saw, not on my K700S. I used a simple ¡°box joint jig¡± that we all learned in woodworking 101 but made a mistake thinking I could do the
sides separately and still have things line up. A couple of tries changing methodology were necessary. The drawer empty without the drawer front was over 75 lbs made of Maple. I used Blum slides (Blumotion) with ?¡°Tip-on¡± added for push to open tech to eliminate
visible exterior hardware.
?
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 5:41?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Imran: ? Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s
depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup, I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches). ? You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a
forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡ ? Brian: ? That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like?
What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK. ? Joe: ? Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you. ? Methodology Quiz How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide? ?
-
Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark a line and use a chisel to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small
pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
-
Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either option A or B above to clean up the joint.
?
-
Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then square up the joint using option A or B above.
?
-
Something else?
? I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get
precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners! ? Thanks in advance for your input, Lucky ?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
I'm afraid he'd still have to chisel out 560 corners if he did
that.? It's a pity Lucky already established he didn't want to do
that.? It would have been a great excuse to buy a new tool.? :)
On 7/9/2024 4:49 PM, David P. Best via
groups.io wrote:
No question: ?a Mauve PantoRouter.?
:-)
Isn¡¯t it time you bought a nesting CNC flatbed router setup??
David Best - via mobile phone?
On Jul 9, 2024, at 2:41?PM, David
Luckensmeyer via groups.io
<dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Imran:
?
Thanks
for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting
blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need
nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If
I were to go back to the horizontal setup, I could
remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and
make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution
because it gives me the exact width (to match the
existing shallower trenches).
?
You
have rightly identified the time-wasting point of
needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal
with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit
to get rid of the septum. I would then have to mark
and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints,
but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That
looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert
for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the
new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you
like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not run two 400mm
blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love
those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to
learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology
Quiz
How
would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be
precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as
discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make
two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out
the waste, and then A) mark a line and use a chisel
to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small
pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then
chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the
same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches,
dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and
then employ either option A or B above to clean up
the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing
shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides),
and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm
¡°half lap¡± joint, and then square up the joint using
option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I
personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some
kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as
I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and
square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I find
it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners
are already established. I have never liked chiselling
corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g.
Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks
in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more
stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the
slider that could be adapted for this also.
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Thank you Imran and Lucky! Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 6:20?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brian,
I saw this before but it is so cool I had to see it again. Amazing workmanship ?
Lucky, as I further thought about my suggestion I realized it was lunacy. I think you are correct about returning to the horizontal setup. I know we are talking about a lot of work for 280 repititions!?
I had a few do overs and re-designs as I progressed but ultimately was very happy with the result.? To answer?your question, it is a drawer that holds DVD¡¯s on the bottom level, and Blu-rays on the top level as they are both different size cases. The drawer was incorporated into a raised panel staircase I built 30 years earlier and had always planned to make a drawer similar. There is hopefully an attached video below showing final install?? The CMT was excellent; best dado I ever had but I ran it on a cabinet saw, not on my K700S. I used a simple ¡°box joint jig¡± that we all learned in woodworking 101 but made a mistake thinking I could do the sides separately and still have things line up. A couple of tries changing methodology were necessary. The drawer empty without the drawer front was over 75 lbs made of Maple. I used Blum slides (Blumotion) with ?¡°Tip-on¡± added for push to open tech to eliminate visible exterior hardware. Kind regards,
Brian D. Milidrag
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 5:41?PM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens= [email protected]> wrote:
Imran:
?
Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup,
I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
?
You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to
mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not
run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark
a line and use a chisel to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either
option A or B above to clean up the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then
square up the joint using option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I
find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Brian,
I saw this before but it is so cool I had to see it again. Amazing workmanship ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 9, 2024, at 6:13?PM, Brian via groups.io <brian.milidrag@...> wrote: ? Lucky, as I further thought about my suggestion I realized it was lunacy. I think you are correct about returning to the horizontal setup. I know we are talking about a lot of work for 280 repititions!?
I had a few do overs and re-designs as I progressed but ultimately was very happy with the result.? To answer?your question, it is a drawer that holds DVD¡¯s on the bottom level, and Blu-rays on the top level as they are both different size cases. The drawer was incorporated into a raised panel staircase I built 30 years earlier and had always planned to make a drawer similar. There is hopefully an attached video below showing final install?? The CMT was excellent; best dado I ever had but I ran it on a cabinet saw, not on my K700S. I used a simple ¡°box joint jig¡± that we all learned in woodworking 101 but made a mistake thinking I could do the sides separately and still have things line up. A couple of tries changing methodology were necessary. The drawer empty without the drawer front was over 75 lbs made of Maple. I used Blum slides (Blumotion) with ?¡°Tip-on¡± added for push to open tech to eliminate visible exterior hardware. Kind regards,
Brian D. Milidrag
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 5:41?PM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens= [email protected]> wrote:
Imran:
?
Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup,
I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
?
You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to
mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not
run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark
a line and use a chisel to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either
option A or B above to clean up the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then
square up the joint using option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I
find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
<IMG_0285.MOV>
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Oh wow! The video came through. I love it. No one would even think the drawer is there! Thanks for sharing.
?
Lucky
?
Lucky, as I further thought about my suggestion I realized it was lunacy. I think you are correct about returning to the horizontal setup. I know we are talking about a lot of work for 280 repititions!?
I had a few do overs and re-designs as I progressed but ultimately was very happy with the result.?
To answer?your question, it is a drawer that holds DVD¡¯s on the bottom level, and Blu-rays on the top level as they are both different size cases. The drawer was incorporated into a raised panel staircase
I built 30 years earlier and had always planned to make a drawer similar.
There is hopefully an attached video below showing final install??
The CMT was excellent; best dado I ever had but I ran it on a cabinet saw, not on my K700S. I used a simple ¡°box joint jig¡± that we all learned in woodworking 101 but made a mistake thinking I could do the
sides separately and still have things line up. A couple of tries changing methodology were necessary. The drawer empty without the drawer front was over 75 lbs made of Maple. I used Blum slides (Blumotion) with ?¡°Tip-on¡± added for push to open tech to eliminate
visible exterior hardware.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 5:41?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Imran:
?
Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s
depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup, I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
?
You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a
forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like?
What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
-
Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark a line and use a chisel to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small
pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
-
Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either option A or B above to clean up the joint.
?
-
Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then square up the joint using option A or B above.
?
-
Something else?
?
I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get
precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Lucky, as I further thought about my suggestion I realized it was lunacy. I think you are correct about returning to the horizontal setup. I know we are talking about a lot of work for 280 repititions!?
I had a few do overs and re-designs as I progressed but ultimately was very happy with the result.? To answer?your question, it is a drawer that holds DVD¡¯s on the bottom level, and Blu-rays on the top level as they are both different size cases. The drawer was incorporated into a raised panel staircase I built 30 years earlier and had always planned to make a drawer similar. There is hopefully an attached video below showing final install?? The CMT was excellent; best dado I ever had but I ran it on a cabinet saw, not on my K700S. I used a simple ¡°box joint jig¡± that we all learned in woodworking 101 but made a mistake thinking I could do the sides separately and still have things line up. A couple of tries changing methodology were necessary. The drawer empty without the drawer front was over 75 lbs made of Maple. I used Blum slides (Blumotion) with ?¡°Tip-on¡± added for push to open tech to eliminate visible exterior hardware. Kind regards,
Brian D. Milidrag
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 5:41?PM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens= [email protected]> wrote:
Imran:
?
Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup,
I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
?
You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to
mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not
run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark
a line and use a chisel to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either
option A or B above to clean up the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then
square up the joint using option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I
find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Hi David,
I was just thinking of what else you can do but with the vertical setup you shared I assume you plan to do ~8 passes to complete the half lap. True or do you have another trick up your sleeve.
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Show quoted text
On Jul 9, 2024, at 5:41?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> wrote: ?
Imran:
?
Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup,
I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
?
You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to
mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not
run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark
a line and use a chisel to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either
option A or B above to clean up the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then
square up the joint using option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I
find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Imran:
?
Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup,
I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
?
You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to
mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not
run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark
a line and use a chisel to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either
option A or B above to clean up the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then
square up the joint using option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I
find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Hi David:
?
Thanks! I think it will work. And for sure, I am saving up for Mac¡¯s horizontal clamp in future. Have you used the horizontal component on your Kappa 400 before? I know I would use it all the time on the shaper,
but I only have one set of Mac¡¯s clamps and swap them back and forth between the saw and the shaper. Or is this an excuse to buy a whole other set?
?
?
Regarding the Leitz blade, I have not used it yet so I cannot report on how it performs, but I listened to your advice (sometimes I listen!) when purchasing the slider and did not buy a 400mm blade ¡°just in
case¡± but actually waited until I needed the extra depth of cut. Well, 9 years of ownership and I only now need that bigger blade.
?
The Leitz sawblade item number is 133130, 400mm diameter, 3.5mm kerf, 2.5mm body, 30mm bore, 96Z, 10 degree irregular pitch, ATB. My rep says I will absolutely love it. I hope so because it cost $320AUD. Ouch.
?
I was completely joking about the Aigner, sorry. I know some people find Aigner overly expensive so I was just having a bit of fun. The most expensive parts of my jig are the Wurth screws and the 3M blue tape.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Lucky,
I like your jig and it¡¯s exactly how I would go at this workflow. ?I did something similar with my K975 by adding a plywood vertical support that attached to the crosscut fence extrusion with screws into T-nuts
along the face of the extrusion. ?But since the digital fence extrusion does not have T-slots along its face, what you¡¯ve come up with is the only practical way of creating a tall crosscut fence face. ?I love it. ?Mac¡¯s horizontal clamp would certainly lower
the setup time for each cut. ?I¡¯d be interested in knowing the specs on your Leitz 400mm blade - tooth count and grind in particular.
Are you referring to the MortiseBoy jig from Aigner, or something else? ?If so, I don¡¯t see the MortiseBoy being suitable for your application. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 8, 2024, at 11:26?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
I should have asked with my previous posts: Does anyone have the Aigner version of this jig? Retail price, only $1,299USD.
?
?
?
I love this jig, excellent idea and also looks very safe! Im waiting for my dado stack exactly for this purpose however I don't think there would be any other options other then your approach with this jig.?
?
On Tue, 9 Jul 2024 at 07:23, David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
I¡¯m about to embark on large ¡°half lap joints¡± style of joinery for a series of bookcases in Zebrano and Walnut (and Copper), and am using a Leitz 400mm blade. I think the best way to do this is to make 125mm deep cuts while the material is on edge. I am
open to making the cuts with the material flat on the slider, stopping the cut, backing out, and then cleaning up the joints by hand. However, I have something like 280 trenches to do, so that¡¯s a minimum of 560 cuts (one per shoulder) and more hand work to
square the bottom of the trenches. I¡¯ve made these kinds of joints before with a router and jig and I can tell you that programming the Kappa 400 rip fence with presets is wickedly faster and far more accurate.
Of course I¡¯d love feedback for those who can see a better way. Appreciated in advance ?
The other reason for my post is to share my little ¡°90 degree support jig¡± which is held in place using one of Mac¡¯s clamps. This setup provides excellent registration for the material which is 2200mm x 250mm x 30mm in size.
Note the high-tech blue tape to dial in the jig for square. Woo hoo.?
<IMG_1632.jpeg><IMG_1630.jpeg><IMG_1629.jpeg><IMG_1628.jpeg><IMG_1626.jpeg>
Warm regards, Lucky
?
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Hi Jason:
?
That inline toggle looks good. On reflection, I think I can easily mount an inline toggle clamp onto some timber and clamp it into position using Mac¡¯s clamp, and then toggle that on and off to hold the material
while cutting. Thanks very much for the idea.
?
A tenoning machine? Hubba hubba!
??
?
Lucky
?
That looks like it should do the trick just fine. I'd use a Destaco inline toggle clamp like this one for speed in the absence of Mac's horizontal clamp.?
You do realize you are missing out on the opportunity to acquire a single (or double!) end tenoning machine
?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
I occasionally do vertical work on the slider and use this simple jig with a clamp to hold the work. Still awkward with the clamp and thinking about making a fixture to mount my Max horizontal clamp to the slider.
Clamp doesn¡¯t work for thick door parts.
|
Hello Everyone,
I'm looking to get an Aigner Vactral fence but unfortunately it seems its not available anymore. Would anyone would like to sell one maybe for a reasonable price or could give me some feedback??
Many thanks,
Rich
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Well this probably will not be much help since you have to cover 125mm¡but I bought that new CMT Dado a few months ago for precisely this purpose, but I only had to plow out about 40mm high and did do it on end with a trusty ¡°hand clamp¡±! Any chance you can stack a couple of those 400mm blades with a spacer in the middle and then just cut it at the top of the result with ¡°pick your choice of weaponry¡±? None of this is ideal from a safety standpoint of course¡. Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 1:23?AM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens= [email protected]> wrote: I¡¯m about to embark on large ¡°half lap joints¡± style of joinery for a series of bookcases in Zebrano and Walnut (and Copper), and am using a Leitz 400mm blade. I think the best way to do this is to make 125mm deep cuts while the material is on edge. I am open to making the cuts with the material flat on the slider, stopping the cut, backing out, and then cleaning up the joints by hand. However, I have something like 280 trenches to do, so that¡¯s a minimum of 560 cuts (one per shoulder) and more hand work to square the bottom of the trenches. I¡¯ve made these kinds of joints before with a router and jig and I can tell you that programming the Kappa 400 rip fence with presets is wickedly faster and far more accurate.
Of course I¡¯d love feedback for those who can see a better way. Appreciated in advance ?
The other reason for my post is to share my little ¡°90 degree support jig¡± which is held in place using one of Mac¡¯s clamps. This setup provides excellent registration for the material which is 2200mm x 250mm x 30mm in size.
Note the high-tech blue tape to dial in the jig for square. Woo hoo.?
    
Warm regards, Lucky
|
imran
David Luckensmeyer
David P. Best
Brian
