I'm afraid he'd still have to chisel out 560 corners if he did
that.? It's a pity Lucky already established he didn't want to do
that.? It would have been a great excuse to buy a new tool.? :)
On 7/9/2024 4:49 PM, David P. Best via
groups.io wrote:
No question: ?a Mauve PantoRouter.?
:-)
Isn¡¯t it time you bought a nesting CNC flatbed router setup??
David Best - via mobile phone?
On Jul 9, 2024, at 2:41?PM, David
Luckensmeyer via groups.io
<dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Imran:
?
Thanks
for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting
blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need
nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If
I were to go back to the horizontal setup, I could
remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and
make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution
because it gives me the exact width (to match the
existing shallower trenches).
?
You
have rightly identified the time-wasting point of
needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal
with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit
to get rid of the septum. I would then have to mark
and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints,
but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That
looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert
for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the
new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you
like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not run two 400mm
blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love
those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to
learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology
Quiz
How
would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be
precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as
discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make
two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out
the waste, and then A) mark a line and use a chisel
to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small
pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then
chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the
same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches,
dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and
then employ either option A or B above to clean up
the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing
shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides),
and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm
¡°half lap¡± joint, and then square up the joint using
option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I
personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some
kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as
I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and
square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I find
it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners
are already established. I have never liked chiselling
corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g.
Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks
in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more
stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the
slider that could be adapted for this also.
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
