Wade, there is a flip down also an option for the AD941. I don't think it is an Aigner but one you can install on the factory fence, I ordered it but they forgot to ship it with the first machine they shipped me.

开云体育

Read my early post. lol

Phil,

Your question has generated an interesting conversation. The latest post provided by Jonathan provides a very good context. I will add a few lines to expand on some aspects.

No need for anyone without interest in insect biology, entomology or phytosanitary measures to read the rest of this post.

Heat treatment protocols were developed in the context of phytosanitary measures, particularly those pertaining to forest products in international trade. The ? 56 degrees C for 30 minutes at the core ? is the internationally accepted standard. For products such as lumber the treatment is carried out in large industrial kilns and the treatment times are calculated on the basis that every single piece of wood contained in any bundle will reach an internal core temperature of 56 degrees C (or 133 degrees F) for 30 minutes. The intent is to neutralize the live insects that may be present in the wood. Lethality is the result of drastic changes in temperature and reduction of moisture levels around the larvae.

I am unclear about the type of insects you are dealing with. In a lot (most?) of cases the insects will be some form of wood borer (the introduced Asian Longhorn Beetle being the main culprit for the last two decades or so for Ash species). The larvae of these insects do not like low moisture content levels during their development. The lumber you are using is well below saturation point and the larvae are no longer protected by bark. Not a good prognostic for them ?.

Lumber without bark that has been further processed (resawn; jointed; planed) will usually present low levels of live larvae. If they are present, one will either see the larvae inside galleries that have been sliced open or will see galleries filled with sawdust. The larvae exposed to air will be facing an uphill battle to complete their life cycle (ie become an adult wood borer). Those still protected inside a gallery may have a higher chance of survival. The risk of an adult wood borer emerging from a piece of wood found in our woodworking shops is virtually zero. They need bark and high moisture content levels in adjacent wood, a combination not met in our shops.

All that being said (or written) the answer to your original question depends to some extent on the status of the wood you are working with. Since you lumber has been cut for a certain time, it is likely that most larvae that may have been present to start with have already completed their life cycle. Some pictures of your material would be useful.

I hope this long answer will nonetheless be useful. Please feel free to reach out through DM if you want to discuss further.

Regards,

Jacques

SOLD
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

SOLD
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

Most common commercial heat treat spec is 140f at core for 30 minutes.? Bigger stuff like poles are measured 2" in from the surface.? ?It will take a while to get to that temp in 15%mc wood and longer for 7%.? To me, the 7% is unusually low for airdry except maybe Death Valley in September. Solid wood mc is normally expressed in dry basis = water weight / bone dry wood weight.? Some folks get this confused with MC wet basis = water weight / total weight which is typically used for residues like pulp chips and hog fuel.? Commercial furniture hardwoods like cherry, ash, walnut, and oaks target 7 to 9%mc, dry basis.

If you don't have a good meter and want to measure accurately, weigh a couple of samples then stick them in the oven at 150F for a couple hours then weigh again.? If you are really interested in leaning about how to dry wood,? Mike Milota, OSU offers an online course.??.??

How much buggy ash do you have?? What are the ranges of dimensions.? Thickness (dimension thru the thinnest area) will factor treat times.

Another thought just hit me.? If you have a forestry school near you, they often have test kilns.? They may also have some eager students that want to look at your bugs.

开云体育

Hi Phil,

Jonathan.? That seems rather a long time.? Other sites talk of 5hrs.? What does it do to the wood I wonder?? If sealed in polythene I'm guessing little if any distortion if wood starts at around 10% moisture content.
One of my sons is co-owner of a company that makes climbing holds and I can access an oven internal 1m x 2.6m x 2m (h) which I reckon will suffice.? Also a large vacuum chamber - maybe that would suck them out quicker than heat will kill them?? I think my first approach will be to cobble up an insulated box and put in a dehumidifier to get the moisture content to as low a level as I reasonably can achieve and take it from there.? Not sure how many years one has to wait before one can be certain of success.
Thanks for the info.

Phil

Hi Dan

I need to also install my DC40 to my F700Z. Do you happen to remember what the thread pitch was on the screws/bolts you used??

Many Thanks,
Rob P.

Hi John,

GRIT makes it very easy to lock out equipment either through the Hub or their easy-to-use app. What initially drew me to GRIT was that I was having a hard time trying to figure out how I would integrate automated blast gates into my system since all of my gates, fittings, and ducting are a clamp-together flange system. Other systems I looked at were based on their "unflanged" blast gates that would require me to use adapters of some type. Then I saw a video of GRIT being installed on an existing blast gate and then I started looking for all videos I could find on GRIT. So far I have been impressed with the equipment and their customer service is top-notch. In fact, I have to head out to the shop shortly as I have a FaceTime call with them trying to figure out how to wire my AD 941 so that I can use two separate blast gates/hoses and so that the system will recognize if I am in planer or jointing mode.

开云体育

If you use heat you can drop the mc down to 5 to 7 and kill the critters

The wood in question is Ash that has been air dried under cover to, as you suggest, 15%, and then brought into my workshop where over a period of months it drops to <10%.? I'm not rushing that but would like a non-chemical approach to killing the bugs and favour either heat or cold.

Phil

开云体育

I’ve just installed a Grit system and love it. You can also lock out power for tool changes or maintenance as an additional safety precaution.?

Hey Larry,

I was just checking out Grit again the other day. I would like a a way to lock down the machines in the case of someone trying to use the shop in my absence. Grit looks like a good solution to this.?

John?

I'm surprised to learn there are worms in your 10%mc wood.? I'm also surprised, assuming you are in or near the UK, that the MC is not much higher as it would be difficult to get below 15%mc air dry in summer.? I doubt you could get it any dryer now without processing in a vacuum kiln. What is the species?

Chemical or temperature treatment is probably best option now.? Knowing more about the specific bug would improve your chances.? Depending on how much wood will be treated, bagging? or tenting and gassing might be an option. I thinking the bugs would leave the 10%mc wood on their own if the wood was spread out in a dry, airy space and left for a while.

In general, wood shrinks and moves as it dries.? Always cut oversize, sticker and restrain to get best quality.

Thanks Robert

I had put off exploring the freezing option as I've little space available and I recall from the distant past some concern that a domestic freezer in the UK at least would not get to low enough temperatures to do the trick.? And there was also a factor of speed of the freeze being important too.
But you have prompted me to look further and I find this here:

"Place the sealed object in a freezer until you are sure it is frozen all the way through. This
can take a week. If the freezer is a commercial one and reaches -26'C consistently you only
need to freeze it once. If it is a domestic freezer, and only reaches -20'C you need to freeze
it for at least a week, gently lift it out (remember the object may be very brittle while frozen, so
support it on a tray or card if it is fragile).
Let the object thaw, still sealed, for a week and then freeze it again for at least a further week.
This will kill the adults and larvae on the first freeze, trigger the eggs to start developing and
kill them on the second freeze."

I'll give this option a further look - maybe invite the family round for a huge meal and create space?

Phil

开云体育

The worms hang out in the bark interestingly enough sometime ago I cut out some worms and some red oak and I put one of the worms in a plastic container that held film, dated it and one year later I opened it up and the worm was still alive closed it back up. It checked on it another half a year and the worm was dead.?