Re: Adjusting AD951 jointer fence squareness
Hi Anil,
I did not respond as I have a diff model. I had following thoughts based upon dual 51, may not be very useful.
First, are you missing a bolt to set the fence stop.
As for the pin and slot. Can you loosen the bolts holding the side (with slot) and move it a little before retightening to get you the 1/2 deg?
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On Feb 19, 2024, at 4:00?PM, Anil <anil00@...> wrote: ?Just wondering if folks had any ideas about this.? Basically, I can't seem to tweak the last half a degree or so.
Anil
|
Re: Adjusting AD951 jointer fence squareness
Can u grind down the bolt to reach target? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Feb 19, 2024, at 3:00?PM, Anil <anil00@...> wrote:
?Just wondering if folks had any ideas about this.? Basically, I can't seem to tweak the last half a degree or so.
Anil
|
Re: Adjusting AD951 jointer fence squareness
Just wondering if folks had any ideas about this.? Basically, I can't seem to tweak the last half a degree or so.
Anil
|
Re: Totally off topic - batteries question
I¡¯m not able to add much value on the Felder stuff as I¡¯m a beginner, but I have a little experience with Lead-acid to lithium having installed a Voltronix Lithium ion battery kit in a Polaris EV and owning several electric vehicles. I¡¯ve also done some reading. What follows is my understanding and may be helpful for context. ?
Lithium batteries have a much longer lifespan if carefully managed than lead acid. On the Voltronix Polaris kit, there are 16 large 3.3V cells tied in parallel to allow for a 48V high current (up to 600A) source. There is a dedicated BMS (Battery Management System) which has a wire harness which can ?independently monitor all the cells during charging and discharging.
With Lithium ion, overcharging or fully discharging a cell is very damaging, and given the packs are independent batteries tied in series, the state of charge will vary somewhat from battery to battery. So the BMS monitors all and makes decisions about halting charging and discharge based on the most charged/discharged cell respectively. I assume it also has some capability to ¡°rebalance¡± cells by bleeding off charge on a cell or cells to better level out the state of charge across all the cells of the system.?
If you buy a large 12V lithium battery from a company like??then the battery will be composed of cells and include an internal BMS. If you plan to connect multiple of these batteries in series or parallel, then I¡¯d talk to the battery company and ask about the specific application and their charger recommendations, because there are likely implications you may not understand.
I hope this is a) accurate and b) helpful! ?
Michael Branning
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On Feb 19, 2024, at 10:01?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Glen, I did not want to assume but I am pretty sure these batteries are in parallel. In ideal situation batteries should be same voltage. Since this is not happening in your case and assuming the batteries are good the wiring could be at fault.
First, are there on/off switches for each battery? If so, make sure that the one for 95Ahr is working.
Have you tried disconnecting 70Ahr battery to see if 95Ahr runs your system? If it does, check the wire that shorts the two batteries together. A bad connection on + or - post can prevent the 95Ahr battery to charge the 75Ahr battery and equalize voltage.
On Feb 19, 2024, at 9:06?AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
? I¡¯ve had pretty good luck with the forum IRV2.com when facing questions about my RVs. I¡¯ve converted three trailers (two bumper-pull and one 5th-wheel) from lead-acid to lithium, and added solar to two of them. IRV2 has been immensely helpful. Of course there are trolls, jerks, and fools on that site, but there are some very helpful people also. This is not to say I¡¯m particularly knowledgeable when it comes to DC electrical systems, but to vouch for the helpfulness of that forum¡¯s members.
I¡¯m a bit surprised that the ¡°leisure batteries¡± (some people call them ¡°house batteries¡± as opposed to the ¡°chassis batteries¡± that run the automotive things) do not match. Whether used in parallel or in series, many people recommend that batteries be identical.?
I¡¯d be curious how your rig is wired, and what kind of batteries you have. There are significant differences between trailers (no engine or charging system) and vans/motor homes/truck campers. I have worked only on trailers, but maybe I can contribute.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: Totally off topic - batteries question
Glen, I did not want to assume but I am pretty sure these batteries are in parallel. In ideal situation batteries should be same voltage. Since this is not happening in your case and assuming the batteries are good the wiring could be at fault.
First, are there on/off switches for each battery? If so, make sure that the one for 95Ahr is working.
Have you tried disconnecting 70Ahr battery to see if 95Ahr runs your system? If it does, check the wire that shorts the two batteries together. A bad connection on + or - post can prevent the 95Ahr battery to charge the 75Ahr battery and equalize voltage.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 19, 2024, at 9:06?AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote: ? I¡¯ve had pretty good luck with the forum IRV2.com when facing questions about my RVs. I¡¯ve converted three trailers (two bumper-pull and one 5th-wheel) from lead-acid to lithium, and added solar to two of them. IRV2 has been immensely helpful. Of course there are trolls, jerks, and fools on that site, but there are some very helpful people also. This is not to say I¡¯m particularly knowledgeable when it comes to DC electrical systems, but to vouch for the helpfulness of that forum¡¯s members.
I¡¯m a bit surprised that the ¡°leisure batteries¡± (some people call them ¡°house batteries¡± as opposed to the ¡°chassis batteries¡± that run the automotive things) do not match. Whether used in parallel or in series, many people recommend that batteries be identical.?
I¡¯d be curious how your rig is wired, and what kind of batteries you have. There are significant differences between trailers (no engine or charging system) and vans/motor homes/truck campers. I have worked only on trailers, but maybe I can contribute.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: Totally off topic - batteries question
I¡¯ve had pretty good luck with the forum IRV2.com when facing questions about my RVs. I¡¯ve converted three trailers (two bumper-pull and one 5th-wheel) from lead-acid to lithium, and added solar to two of them. IRV2 has been immensely helpful. Of course there are trolls, jerks, and fools on that site, but there are some very helpful people also. This is not to say I¡¯m particularly knowledgeable when it comes to DC electrical systems, but to vouch for the helpfulness of that forum¡¯s members.
I¡¯m a bit surprised that the ¡°leisure batteries¡± (some people call them ¡°house batteries¡± as opposed to the ¡°chassis batteries¡± that run the automotive things) do not match. Whether used in parallel or in series, many people recommend that batteries be identical.?
I¡¯d be curious how your rig is wired, and what kind of batteries you have. There are significant differences between trailers (no engine or charging system) and vans/motor homes/truck campers. I have worked only on trailers, but maybe I can contribute.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: Totally off topic - batteries question
Hi Glen,
It has been a while, to hear from you. The key question is, are these used in parallel?
Like two, 12v batteries used in parallel in a 12V system or two 12V batteries used in series in a 24V system.
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On Feb 19, 2024, at 7:09?AM, glenhyrst <phil_moger@...> wrote: ?I purchased a small campervan 4 months ago and have concerns about the leisure batteries which have been back to the supplier 3 times already and return to me in the same state despite on the most recent occasion, an 80amp fuse was found to be blown and was replaced.
Enquiries on sites campervan orientated have not produced particularly helpful replies and in common with so many sites, by the fifth reply have drifted totally off topic!
Here's what troubles me.? My Wesfalia van comes with x 2 leisure batteries - 1 x 70Ah and 1 x 95Ah.
When I use the habitation 12v electrics, only the former drops its voltage.? The latter seems just along for the ride.
My understanding and expectation was that each would fall in unison or approximately so, if wired in parallel.
I have so far dropped the voltage from 12.5v to 11.4v with no change in the 95Ah battery.
It seems to me that either there is a wiring fault or some devious battery management system that seeks to wreck one battery before engaging the second one.? But why would it do that?
I'm hoping that one or more of the impressively intelligent folks on this site can shed light on the matter.
Thanks
Phil
|
Re: Totally off topic - batteries question
You should try to get in touch with Sandra Johnson sstraveler-Sandy on YouTube. She has changed the world of LTV owners switching to batteries vs plugging in. She has taught several Rv companies and CTM customs how to wire the batteries. Of course lithium has been the move from AGM batteries.
Philip Davidson
--
Philip
davidsonukuleles.com
|
Totally off topic - batteries question
I purchased a small campervan 4 months ago and have concerns about the leisure batteries which have been back to the supplier 3 times already and return to me in the same state despite on the most recent occasion, an 80amp fuse was found to be blown and was replaced.
Enquiries on sites campervan orientated have not produced particularly helpful replies and in common with so many sites, by the fifth reply have drifted totally off topic!
Here's what troubles me.? My Wesfalia van comes with x 2 leisure batteries - 1 x 70Ah and 1 x 95Ah.
When I use the habitation 12v electrics, only the former drops its voltage.? The latter seems just along for the ride.
My understanding and expectation was that each would fall in unison or approximately so, if wired in parallel.
I have so far dropped the voltage from 12.5v to 11.4v with no change in the 95Ah battery.
It seems to me that either there is a wiring fault or some devious battery management system that seeks to wreck one battery before engaging the second one.? But why would it do that?
I'm hoping that one or more of the impressively intelligent folks on this site can shed light on the matter.
Thanks
Phil
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
?If i was buying a Hammer or 700 series I'd look at spiral.? A Format or Martin, I'd go Tersa.
Spiral? ¡Ö?Pantorouter Tersa ?¡Ö?Multirouter?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
I'd only add that Tersa ( my favorite also ) is generally found on a higher end machine and benefits from a chipbreaker, pressure bar, and good hold downs similar to what is needed for a good straight knife machine.? A spiral is better on a lower end machine
as the head compensates for the lack of those items.? The chips are an issue as the Tersa needs better dust collection but the power needed for a spiral depends somewhat on it's design and the number of inserts.? Most high end planers are three phase and 7.5
hp so kind of irrelevant.? If i was buying a Hammer or 700 series I'd look at spiral.? A Format or Martin, I'd go Tersa.
Dave
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Hi FOG:
?
The elephant in the room in the debate between spiral/helical/silent-power versus Tersa is that most people do not appear to be very familiar with the Tersa system. Consequently, the supposed ¡°debate¡± is
more often between spiral versus traditional straight knife systems (not Tersa). This secondary debate generally ends strongly in favour of spiral, and with good reason:
?
- Spiral blades are self-aligning provided the cutter block is clean
- The carbide inserts are long lasting
- The cutterblock is exceptionally quiet, and
- The geometry works very well for most timbers, including the cantankerous varieties.
?
But to address the elephant:
?
Change-over speed
Tersa: 1-2 minutes (I¡¯m not exaggerating here)
Silent Power: 1 hour or more depending on if any ¡°problems¡± are encountered
?
Knife concentricity and seating
Tersa: automatic
Silent Power: dependent on appropriate cleaning and installation processes
?
Potential installation issues
Tersa: none, over 17 years of my commercial use on a Tersa-knife-equipped Dual 51
Silent Power: I hear about screws shearing off, and insert cleaning and seating concerns
?
Relative quietness
Tersa: ¡°loud¡±
Silent Power: It is easy to concede that the silent power system is demonstrably quieter
?
Quality of cut
Tersa: outstanding; the large cutterblock and new knives makes for a very nice finish
Silent Power: outstanding ¨C I don¡¯t know if it provides better results for reversing or cantankerous timbers
?
Dealing with nicked blades
Tersa: shift a blade one way or another by 1mm; this process literally takes maybe 20 seconds
Silent Power: rotate insert, including removal, cleaning, and reseating (presumably takes longer but doable)
?
Versatility of knife selection
Tersa: it is so easy to have multiple sets on the go for different applications
Silent Power: Inserts are carbide with the pros and cons that come with that material
?
Cost
I don¡¯t actually know which one is more expensive to run in the long term. We could easily put up knife replacement figures, but we would need to know how many surface metres or surface feet are being processed
for each dollar spent.
?
I¡¯m probably missing some things here? I think what I¡¯m trying to say is that other than loudness in use, and the possibility that the silent power system offers a better finish in cantankerous timbers,
the Tersa knife system holds up very well. I¡¯ve used silent-power-equipped Felders and spiral-equipped Martins. They are very nice.
?
But I would buy Tersa again in preference to any of the insert systems. Tersa is more versatile, seats automatically and more reliably, and I don¡¯t have to deal with the insert changeover process. The noise
factor is the only feature I care about that I¡¯m missing out on. So be it.
?
I hope this is helpful for future customers wondering which knife system is most suitable for them.
?
?
Hi Phil,?
?Alex covered most of the advantages. Other advantages include the ability to swap out different alloy blades with different cutting geometries for different wood species. For instance, the Chrome and High Speed Steel knives have a 40 degree angle and are recommended
for softwoods, whereas the M+ and Carbide knives have a 55 degree angle and are recommended for hardwoods and exotics. There are additional blades with different coatings and/or alloys.?
?In terms of noise, the Tersa head is supposed to be less noisy than traditional straight knife cutter blocks due to the 2mm projection of the knives, but not quite as quiet as segmented cutter blocks.
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hi Lucky,
I have not used a spiral head but manufacturers claim that it requires less power. I assume it is due to the fact that the straight knife cuts the entire width at the same time but on spiral head, depending upon the geometry, very few carbide cutters are engaged at any given time.
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On Feb 18, 2024, at 6:45?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote: ?
Hi Imran:
?
Nice! I forgot to mention the chip load/size which is definitely ¡°nice and fluffy¡± for the Tersa (which is not an advantage). I don¡¯t know about the max depth of cut. I can¡¯t imagine the knife geometry would
be an issue ¨C rather the specific machine specs and particularly the HP? But that reminds me that I read somewhere that the spiral head designs require less HP when compared to straight knife systems like the Tersa? Cheers.
?
?
Hi Lucky,
Thank you for taking the time to provide an excellent summary. I only have 2 things to add.
Spiral/Helical/Xylent produce small chips that pack well and result in less frequent chip removal from the dust collector. Tersa on the other hand produces nice fluffy chips that fill up the bin rather quickly.
I am not certain that this applies to all of the spiral category but on some machines the max depth of cut may be limited. I read that in a review from a business; even 1 extra pass doubles their labor and
time to finish the job.
?
Happy Tersa user Imran Malik
On Feb 18, 2024, at 6:10?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Hi FOG:
?
The elephant in the room in the debate between spiral/helical/silent-power versus Tersa is that most people do not appear to be very familiar with the Tersa system. Consequently, the supposed ¡°debate¡± is more
often between spiral versus traditional straight knife systems (not Tersa). This secondary debate generally ends strongly in favour of spiral, and with good reason:
?
- Spiral blades are self-aligning provided the cutter block is clean
- The carbide inserts are long lasting
- The cutterblock is exceptionally quiet, and
- The geometry works very well for most timbers, including the cantankerous varieties.
?
But to address the elephant:
?
Change-over speed
Tersa: 1-2 minutes (I¡¯m not exaggerating here)
Silent Power: 1 hour or more depending on if any ¡°problems¡± are encountered
?
Knife concentricity and seating
Tersa: automatic
Silent Power: dependent on appropriate cleaning and installation processes
?
Potential installation issues
Tersa: none, over 17 years of my commercial use on a Tersa-knife-equipped Dual 51
Silent Power: I hear about screws shearing off, and insert cleaning and seating concerns
?
Relative quietness
Tersa: ¡°loud¡±
Silent Power: It is easy to concede that the silent power system is demonstrably quieter
?
Quality of cut
Tersa: outstanding; the large cutterblock and new knives makes for a very nice finish
Silent Power: outstanding ¨C I don¡¯t know if it provides better results for reversing or cantankerous timbers
?
Dealing with nicked blades
Tersa: shift a blade one way or another by 1mm; this process literally takes maybe 20 seconds
Silent Power: rotate insert, including removal, cleaning, and reseating (presumably takes longer but doable)
?
Versatility of knife selection
Tersa: it is so easy to have multiple sets on the go for different applications
Silent Power: Inserts are carbide with the pros and cons that come with that material
?
Cost
I don¡¯t actually know which one is more expensive to run in the long term. We could easily put up knife replacement figures, but we would need to know how many surface metres or surface feet are being processed
for each dollar spent.
?
I¡¯m probably missing some things here? I think what I¡¯m trying to say is that other than loudness in use, and the possibility that the silent power system offers a better finish in cantankerous timbers, the
Tersa knife system holds up very well. I¡¯ve used silent-power-equipped Felders and spiral-equipped Martins. They are very nice.
?
But I would buy Tersa again in preference to any of the insert systems. Tersa is more versatile, seats automatically and more reliably, and I don¡¯t have to deal with the insert changeover process. The noise
factor is the only feature I care about that I¡¯m missing out on. So be it.
?
I hope this is helpful for future customers wondering which knife system is most suitable for them.
?
?
Hi Phil,?
?Alex covered most of the advantages. Other advantages include the ability to swap out different alloy blades with different cutting geometries for different wood species. For instance, the Chrome and High Speed Steel knives have a 40 degree angle and are recommended
for softwoods, whereas the M+ and Carbide knives have a 55 degree angle and are recommended for hardwoods and exotics. There are additional blades with different coatings and/or alloys.?
?In terms of noise, the Tersa head is supposed to be less noisy than traditional straight knife cutter blocks due to the 2mm projection of the knives, but not quite as quiet as segmented cutter blocks.
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hi Imran:
?
Nice! I forgot to mention the chip load/size which is definitely ¡°nice and fluffy¡± for the Tersa (which is not an advantage). I don¡¯t know about the max depth of cut. I can¡¯t imagine the knife geometry would
be an issue ¨C rather the specific machine specs and particularly the HP? But that reminds me that I read somewhere that the spiral head designs require less HP when compared to straight knife systems like the Tersa? Cheers.
?
?
Hi Lucky,
Thank you for taking the time to provide an excellent summary. I only have 2 things to add.
Spiral/Helical/Xylent produce small chips that pack well and result in less frequent chip removal from the dust collector. Tersa on the other hand produces nice fluffy chips that fill up the bin rather quickly.
I am not certain that this applies to all of the spiral category but on some machines the max depth of cut may be limited. I read that in a review from a business; even 1 extra pass doubles their labor and
time to finish the job.
?
Happy Tersa user Imran Malik
On Feb 18, 2024, at 6:10?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Hi FOG:
?
The elephant in the room in the debate between spiral/helical/silent-power versus Tersa is that most people do not appear to be very familiar with the Tersa system. Consequently, the supposed ¡°debate¡± is more
often between spiral versus traditional straight knife systems (not Tersa). This secondary debate generally ends strongly in favour of spiral, and with good reason:
?
- Spiral blades are self-aligning provided the cutter block is clean
- The carbide inserts are long lasting
- The cutterblock is exceptionally quiet, and
- The geometry works very well for most timbers, including the cantankerous varieties.
?
But to address the elephant:
?
Change-over speed
Tersa: 1-2 minutes (I¡¯m not exaggerating here)
Silent Power: 1 hour or more depending on if any ¡°problems¡± are encountered
?
Knife concentricity and seating
Tersa: automatic
Silent Power: dependent on appropriate cleaning and installation processes
?
Potential installation issues
Tersa: none, over 17 years of my commercial use on a Tersa-knife-equipped Dual 51
Silent Power: I hear about screws shearing off, and insert cleaning and seating concerns
?
Relative quietness
Tersa: ¡°loud¡±
Silent Power: It is easy to concede that the silent power system is demonstrably quieter
?
Quality of cut
Tersa: outstanding; the large cutterblock and new knives makes for a very nice finish
Silent Power: outstanding ¨C I don¡¯t know if it provides better results for reversing or cantankerous timbers
?
Dealing with nicked blades
Tersa: shift a blade one way or another by 1mm; this process literally takes maybe 20 seconds
Silent Power: rotate insert, including removal, cleaning, and reseating (presumably takes longer but doable)
?
Versatility of knife selection
Tersa: it is so easy to have multiple sets on the go for different applications
Silent Power: Inserts are carbide with the pros and cons that come with that material
?
Cost
I don¡¯t actually know which one is more expensive to run in the long term. We could easily put up knife replacement figures, but we would need to know how many surface metres or surface feet are being processed
for each dollar spent.
?
I¡¯m probably missing some things here? I think what I¡¯m trying to say is that other than loudness in use, and the possibility that the silent power system offers a better finish in cantankerous timbers, the
Tersa knife system holds up very well. I¡¯ve used silent-power-equipped Felders and spiral-equipped Martins. They are very nice.
?
But I would buy Tersa again in preference to any of the insert systems. Tersa is more versatile, seats automatically and more reliably, and I don¡¯t have to deal with the insert changeover process. The noise
factor is the only feature I care about that I¡¯m missing out on. So be it.
?
I hope this is helpful for future customers wondering which knife system is most suitable for them.
?
?
Hi Phil,?
?Alex covered most of the advantages. Other advantages include the ability to swap out different alloy blades with different cutting geometries for different wood species. For instance, the Chrome and High Speed Steel knives have a 40 degree angle and are recommended
for softwoods, whereas the M+ and Carbide knives have a 55 degree angle and are recommended for hardwoods and exotics. There are additional blades with different coatings and/or alloys.?
?In terms of noise, the Tersa head is supposed to be less noisy than traditional straight knife cutter blocks due to the 2mm projection of the knives, but not quite as quiet as segmented cutter blocks.
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hi Lucky,
Thank you for taking the time to provide an excellent summary. I only have 2 things to add.
Spiral/Helical/Xylent produce small chips that pack well and result in less frequent chip removal from the dust collector. Tersa on the other hand produces nice fluffy chips that fill up the bin rather quickly.
I am not certain that this applies to all of the spiral category but on some machines the max depth of cut may be limited. I read that in a review from a business; even 1 extra pass doubles their labor and time to finish the job. Happy Tersa user Imran Malik
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 18, 2024, at 6:10?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote: ?
Hi FOG:
?
The elephant in the room in the debate between spiral/helical/silent-power versus Tersa is that most people do not appear to be very familiar with the Tersa system. Consequently, the supposed ¡°debate¡± is more
often between spiral versus traditional straight knife systems (not Tersa). This secondary debate generally ends strongly in favour of spiral, and with good reason:
?
- Spiral blades are self-aligning provided the cutter block is clean
- The carbide inserts are long lasting
- The cutterblock is exceptionally quiet, and
- The geometry works very well for most timbers, including the cantankerous varieties.
?
But to address the elephant:
?
Change-over speed
Tersa: 1-2 minutes (I¡¯m not exaggerating here)
Silent Power: 1 hour or more depending on if any ¡°problems¡± are encountered
?
Knife concentricity and seating
Tersa: automatic
Silent Power: dependent on appropriate cleaning and installation processes
?
Potential installation issues
Tersa: none, over 17 years of my commercial use on a Tersa-knife-equipped Dual 51
Silent Power: I hear about screws shearing off, and insert cleaning and seating concerns
?
Relative quietness
Tersa: ¡°loud¡±
Silent Power: It is easy to concede that the silent power system is demonstrably quieter
?
Quality of cut
Tersa: outstanding; the large cutterblock and new knives makes for a very nice finish
Silent Power: outstanding ¨C I don¡¯t know if it provides better results for reversing or cantankerous timbers
?
Dealing with nicked blades
Tersa: shift a blade one way or another by 1mm; this process literally takes maybe 20 seconds
Silent Power: rotate insert, including removal, cleaning, and reseating (presumably takes longer but doable)
?
Versatility of knife selection
Tersa: it is so easy to have multiple sets on the go for different applications
Silent Power: Inserts are carbide with the pros and cons that come with that material
?
Cost
I don¡¯t actually know which one is more expensive to run in the long term. We could easily put up knife replacement figures, but we would need to know how many surface metres or surface feet are being processed
for each dollar spent.
?
I¡¯m probably missing some things here? I think what I¡¯m trying to say is that other than loudness in use, and the possibility that the silent power system offers a better finish in cantankerous timbers, the
Tersa knife system holds up very well. I¡¯ve used silent-power-equipped Felders and spiral-equipped Martins. They are very nice.
?
But I would buy Tersa again in preference to any of the insert systems. Tersa is more versatile, seats automatically and more reliably, and I don¡¯t have to deal with the insert changeover process. The noise
factor is the only feature I care about that I¡¯m missing out on. So be it.
?
I hope this is helpful for future customers wondering which knife system is most suitable for them.
?
?
Hi Phil,?
?Alex covered most of the advantages. Other advantages include the ability to swap out different alloy blades with different cutting geometries for different wood species. For instance, the Chrome and High Speed Steel knives have a 40 degree angle and are recommended
for softwoods, whereas the M+ and Carbide knives have a 55 degree angle and are recommended for hardwoods and exotics. There are additional blades with different coatings and/or alloys.?
?In terms of noise, the Tersa head is supposed to be less noisy than traditional straight knife cutter blocks due to the 2mm projection of the knives, but not quite as quiet as segmented cutter blocks.
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hi FOG:
?
The elephant in the room in the debate between spiral/helical/silent-power versus Tersa is that most people do not appear to be very familiar with the Tersa system. Consequently, the supposed ¡°debate¡± is more
often between spiral versus traditional straight knife systems (not Tersa). This secondary debate generally ends strongly in favour of spiral, and with good reason:
?
- Spiral blades are self-aligning provided the cutter block is clean
- The carbide inserts are long lasting
- The cutterblock is exceptionally quiet, and
- The geometry works very well for most timbers, including the cantankerous varieties.
?
But to address the elephant:
?
Change-over speed
Tersa: 1-2 minutes (I¡¯m not exaggerating here)
Silent Power: 1 hour or more depending on if any ¡°problems¡± are encountered
?
Knife concentricity and seating
Tersa: automatic
Silent Power: dependent on appropriate cleaning and installation processes
?
Potential installation issues
Tersa: none, over 17 years of my commercial use on a Tersa-knife-equipped Dual 51
Silent Power: I hear about screws shearing off, and insert cleaning and seating concerns
?
Relative quietness
Tersa: ¡°loud¡±
Silent Power: It is easy to concede that the silent power system is demonstrably quieter
?
Quality of cut
Tersa: outstanding; the large cutterblock and new knives makes for a very nice finish
Silent Power: outstanding ¨C I don¡¯t know if it provides better results for reversing or cantankerous timbers
?
Dealing with nicked blades
Tersa: shift a blade one way or another by 1mm; this process literally takes maybe 20 seconds
Silent Power: rotate insert, including removal, cleaning, and reseating (presumably takes longer but doable)
?
Versatility of knife selection
Tersa: it is so easy to have multiple sets on the go for different applications
Silent Power: Inserts are carbide with the pros and cons that come with that material
?
Cost
I don¡¯t actually know which one is more expensive to run in the long term. We could easily put up knife replacement figures, but we would need to know how many surface metres or surface feet are being processed
for each dollar spent.
?
I¡¯m probably missing some things here? I think what I¡¯m trying to say is that other than loudness in use, and the possibility that the silent power system offers a better finish in cantankerous timbers, the
Tersa knife system holds up very well. I¡¯ve used silent-power-equipped Felders and spiral-equipped Martins. They are very nice.
?
But I would buy Tersa again in preference to any of the insert systems. Tersa is more versatile, seats automatically and more reliably, and I don¡¯t have to deal with the insert changeover process. The noise
factor is the only feature I care about that I¡¯m missing out on. So be it.
?
I hope this is helpful for future customers wondering which knife system is most suitable for them.
?
?
Hi Phil,?
?Alex covered most of the advantages. Other advantages include the ability to swap out different alloy blades with different cutting geometries for different wood species. For instance, the Chrome and High Speed Steel knives have a 40 degree angle and are recommended
for softwoods, whereas the M+ and Carbide knives have a 55 degree angle and are recommended for hardwoods and exotics. There are additional blades with different coatings and/or alloys.?
?In terms of noise, the Tersa head is supposed to be less noisy than traditional straight knife cutter blocks due to the 2mm projection of the knives, but not quite as quiet as segmented cutter blocks.
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hi Phil,?
?Alex covered most of the advantages. Other advantages include the ability to swap out different alloy blades with different cutting geometries for different wood species. For instance, the Chrome and High Speed Steel knives have a 40 degree angle and are recommended for softwoods, whereas the M+ and Carbide knives have a 55 degree angle and are recommended for hardwoods and exotics. There are additional blades with different coatings and/or alloys.?
?In terms of noise, the Tersa head is supposed to be less noisy than traditional straight knife cutter blocks due to the 2mm projection of the knives, but not quite as quiet as segmented cutter blocks.
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hi Phil,
The link Tom included in his suggestion about tersa cutter blocks says it all. ?Tersa cutter blocks use full length straight knives like most of the older design planers and jointers. ?They just have a unique design that enables one to very quickly change out dull or damaged knives for new sharp knives. ?There is no need for specialty tools and there is no hassle with setting the knives.
Other than that, I see no advantage to Tersa cutter blocks.
Have a wonderful day,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 18, 2024, at 12:00?AM, Philip Krisanski <Philip@...> wrote:
Ok thanks Tom. What is the advantage of tersa cutter blocks? Thanks Phil? On 16 Feb 2024, at 10:09?am, Tom Gensmer <tom@...> wrote:
?Hi Phil,?
?If you're exploring alternative cutter blocks, you could also look into whether there's a Tersa cutterblock available:?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Felder Bf6-31 compact. Motor brake gone pop
Hi Alex,
Thanks for the update. I am glad you found some options. Price is comparable to what people have paid, buying from Felder in USA. I hope you get the machine up and running soon. These switches are expensive but they are very well made, simplify machine design and last a long time.
Good luck,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 18, 2024, at 5:17?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote: ?
Hello Imran,
Just a quick update, been in touch with K&N and they can supply a custom made switch for ?225. Felder came in at 256. ?A lot of expense for a switch, but I want/need the machine to function properly and will go for the cheaper option in the future.
I appreciate the option of disassembly to repair and my brother has offered this but to avoid using his time and to keep machine running, I¡¯ll have a go at swapping a new switch over myself, wire for wire. ?Your input has been most kind, useful and much appreciated,
thank you.?
Alex
On 4 Feb 2024, at 13:51, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
In your machine, K&N selector switch does 2 functions. One is the control side and the other is power to the motor. It appears that the control side is working (indicated by the correct motor being started) but the power side apparently not. I assume that
the motor is not getting full voltage. This can be a dirty connection or worse but it could also be that the control side is dropping in/out. In the later case you would have heard the chatter, so the issue me be the former. It may be worthwhile blowing some
air and tapping the switch to dislodge any dust build up.
There is a thread here, from few yrs ago, where Felder supplied a different K&N selector switch with some jumpers to make it work the same as original, so that may be an option.
These switches are modular in design. Another used switch can be used to scavenge parts. I assume it is cam type. The option for each stage is to make connections in T, L or I orientations. Let¡¯s hope cleaning works or Felder comes thru (they are still
using this type of switch) otherwise it would be bit of a project.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 4:37?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hello Imran,
My brother came over and replaced the large capacitor and hey presto, the planer and saw work perfectly. Sadly the ?spindle moulder wouldn¡¯t start. It was trying and rotated very slowly but wouldn¡¯t energise and start properly. Nick tested the
switch and found it to be faulty and I¡¯ve tried to locate the Kraus and Naimer ?A14 switch with no success at the moment. I¡¯ll call felder tomorrow. I did see a thread on this group which you contributed to which seemed to limit acquisition to felder directly.?
Alex
On 31 Jan 2024, at 14:06, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? That¡¯s encouraging, I¡¯ll let you know the outcome in a ?few days when my brother pops over to help out.?
Thanks?
On 31 Jan 2024, at 12:16, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Alex, Larger one is the start cap and the symptoms match. So hoping all will work once you replace it ?
On Jan 31, 2024, at 7:08?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran, there is no visible evidence on the capacitors. I replaced the smaller one a while back which exploded and caught fire. I bought replacements for both but only replaced the defective one. I¡¯ll now replace the larger one and hope
it works. Many thanks for your help.?
Best regards?
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 17:49, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Thanks for the details. I hope the cap replacement fixes your issue. Hopefully you have replacement for both of them. If not look for one with a popped end. If no visual evidence, I would replace CA first as that is the start capacitor. It should be the
larger in value, assuming they are not same. If they are same value, you will need to beep their connections relative to the wiring diagram to find out which is CA and CB. Would be nice if they are labeled. Good luck.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 12:10?PM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Imran, it¡¯s difficult to describe the symptoms as initially there was a grunting straining ?sound that seemed like a braking hum and it tripped the rcd. I turned it on again, the saw started, then the stop switch failed to operate instantly,
then when it did the motor stopped quite violently but the braking didn¡¯t switch itself off, it tripped the rcd. Now none of the motors run, I just get a laboured hum. I¡¯ll get the capacitor replaced and see what happens. Many thanks
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 15:13, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Alex,
Sure, from your original post, I thought you were having braking issue, i.e. RCD trip at turn off during braking. But if the motors don¡¯t run then replacing caps should help. Once motors are running and the RCD trips during braking we can look into it.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
I have another couple of diagrams which maybe could help. I didn¡¯t send them as didn¡¯t want to complicate. ?The machine was manufactured in 1999. The motors do not run, just lots of hum before the rcd trips. I¡¯m just going to fit the new capacitor
. Cheers?
Alex
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On 30 Jan 2024, at 14:51, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
Correct, this schematic is for 2KW but for one w/o brake function. If the motors are starting up and running normally then capacitors are good.
My schematic has a date (bottom left) 15.09.1994. I cannot read the date on your schematic but I assume it is older because your machine does not show the low voltage transformer. So all switches are 220VAC vs ~24VAC in newer machines including the schematic
I have dated 1994.
If you machine has/had braking function then the schematic is not correct. I was fine for capacitors purpose. You should request a sch for your machine with brake function.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 9:24?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi Imran,?
I¡¯ve managed to find the big book, but it¡¯s only a spare parts book. However a capacitor replacement a while back (just one replaced) instigated a request for the wiring diagram from felder for this 2kw machine : ?I will replace the other capacitor
which I have to see if that rectifies the problem when I get time and see where we go from there.?
Thanks?
Alex
<image1.jpeg>
On 28 Jan 2024, at 14:46, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? No Worries Alex. Is your machine ~5KW? If so, I see Y-D start which adds more relays; K4 is one of them. There is no K4 in the first schematic I shared which was for a 2KW machine.
Do you have the big book of your machine? The schematics and other important info is in there. Here are couple of shots to show you what is in the book that I have.
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
If you do not have the machine book with wiring diagram info as shown above, I suggest you contact Felder and get a copy. They may be able to guide you as well as to the location of the relays.
The pics you shared are not very sharp. Appears there is at least one more relay by the selector switch. Still it would be difficult to guide you because I do not know where these are located and for that matter if my schematic matches your machine in
the first place.
Once you have the wiring diagram and you poke around a bit more to try to locate components, I can try to help.
Imran Malik
On Jan 28, 2024, at 4:48?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran,?
Sorry for the late response, just found your message in my junk ! Thanks for the wiring diagram , most useful as I seem to have misplaced mine. Looking on the circuit board, I could only find K1 and K4 and the other connecting block visible from the top
where the capacitors feed into. There is nothing on the circuit board where the K2 and K3 markings are. Do you know if the circuit board is serviceable or do I replace the whole unit ??
Thanks?
Alex
On 23 Jan 2024, at 23:50, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Yes, a wiring diagram. Sharing what I have but you should have a copy of yours. Now a days, it is placed in a pouch on the inside face of the electrical cabinet cover but not sure what they did back then.
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On Jan 23, 2024, at 5:59?PM, alexmoore4@... wrote:
?Hello Imran,
thanks for your kind response. ?I¡¯ll have a look for those components you mention tomorrow. I¡¯m not an electrician, although my brother is and if I can make it easier for him, all the better. I¡¯m guessing a schematic is a wiring diagram ?
Many thanks?
Alex
|
Re: Felder Bf6-31 compact. Motor brake gone pop
Hello Imran,
Just a quick update, been in touch with K&N and they can supply a custom made switch for ?225. Felder came in at 256. ?A lot of expense for a switch, but I want/need the machine to function properly and will go for the cheaper option in the future.
I appreciate the option of disassembly to repair and my brother has offered this but to avoid using his time and to keep machine running, I¡¯ll have a go at swapping a new switch over myself, wire for wire. ?Your input has been most kind, useful and much appreciated,
thank you.?
Alex
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4 Feb 2024, at 13:51, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
In your machine, K&N selector switch does 2 functions. One is the control side and the other is power to the motor. It appears that the control side is working (indicated by the correct motor being started) but the power side apparently not. I assume that
the motor is not getting full voltage. This can be a dirty connection or worse but it could also be that the control side is dropping in/out. In the later case you would have heard the chatter, so the issue me be the former. It may be worthwhile blowing some
air and tapping the switch to dislodge any dust build up.
There is a thread here, from few yrs ago, where Felder supplied a different K&N selector switch with some jumpers to make it work the same as original, so that may be an option.
These switches are modular in design. Another used switch can be used to scavenge parts. I assume it is cam type. The option for each stage is to make connections in T, L or I orientations. Let¡¯s hope cleaning works or Felder comes thru (they are still
using this type of switch) otherwise it would be bit of a project.
On Feb 4, 2024, at 4:37?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hello Imran,
My brother came over and replaced the large capacitor and hey presto, the planer and saw work perfectly. Sadly the ?spindle moulder wouldn¡¯t start. It was trying and rotated very slowly but wouldn¡¯t energise and start properly. Nick tested the
switch and found it to be faulty and I¡¯ve tried to locate the Kraus and Naimer ?A14 switch with no success at the moment. I¡¯ll call felder tomorrow. I did see a thread on this group which you contributed to which seemed to limit acquisition to felder directly.?
Alex
On 31 Jan 2024, at 14:06, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? That¡¯s encouraging, I¡¯ll let you know the outcome in a ?few days when my brother pops over to help out.?
Thanks?
On 31 Jan 2024, at 12:16, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Alex, Larger one is the start cap and the symptoms match. So hoping all will work once you replace it ?
On Jan 31, 2024, at 7:08?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran, there is no visible evidence on the capacitors. I replaced the smaller one a while back which exploded and caught fire. I bought replacements for both but only replaced the defective one. I¡¯ll now replace the larger one and hope
it works. Many thanks for your help.?
Best regards?
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 17:49, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Thanks for the details. I hope the cap replacement fixes your issue. Hopefully you have replacement for both of them. If not look for one with a popped end. If no visual evidence, I would replace CA first as that is the start capacitor. It should be the
larger in value, assuming they are not same. If they are same value, you will need to beep their connections relative to the wiring diagram to find out which is CA and CB. Would be nice if they are labeled. Good luck.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 12:10?PM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Imran, it¡¯s difficult to describe the symptoms as initially there was a grunting straining ?sound that seemed like a braking hum and it tripped the rcd. I turned it on again, the saw started, then the stop switch failed to operate instantly,
then when it did the motor stopped quite violently but the braking didn¡¯t switch itself off, it tripped the rcd. Now none of the motors run, I just get a laboured hum. I¡¯ll get the capacitor replaced and see what happens. Many thanks
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 15:13, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Alex,
Sure, from your original post, I thought you were having braking issue, i.e. RCD trip at turn off during braking. But if the motors don¡¯t run then replacing caps should help. Once motors are running and the RCD trips during braking we can look into it.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
I have another couple of diagrams which maybe could help. I didn¡¯t send them as didn¡¯t want to complicate. ?The machine was manufactured in 1999. The motors do not run, just lots of hum before the rcd trips. I¡¯m just going to fit the new capacitor
. Cheers?
Alex
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On 30 Jan 2024, at 14:51, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
Correct, this schematic is for 2KW but for one w/o brake function. If the motors are starting up and running normally then capacitors are good.
My schematic has a date (bottom left) 15.09.1994. I cannot read the date on your schematic but I assume it is older because your machine does not show the low voltage transformer. So all switches are 220VAC vs ~24VAC in newer machines including the schematic
I have dated 1994.
If you machine has/had braking function then the schematic is not correct. I was fine for capacitors purpose. You should request a sch for your machine with brake function.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 9:24?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi Imran,?
I¡¯ve managed to find the big book, but it¡¯s only a spare parts book. However a capacitor replacement a while back (just one replaced) instigated a request for the wiring diagram from felder for this 2kw machine : ?I will replace the other capacitor
which I have to see if that rectifies the problem when I get time and see where we go from there.?
Thanks?
Alex
<image1.jpeg>
On 28 Jan 2024, at 14:46, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? No Worries Alex. Is your machine ~5KW? If so, I see Y-D start which adds more relays; K4 is one of them. There is no K4 in the first schematic I shared which was for a 2KW machine.
Do you have the big book of your machine? The schematics and other important info is in there. Here are couple of shots to show you what is in the book that I have.
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
If you do not have the machine book with wiring diagram info as shown above, I suggest you contact Felder and get a copy. They may be able to guide you as well as to the location of the relays.
The pics you shared are not very sharp. Appears there is at least one more relay by the selector switch. Still it would be difficult to guide you because I do not know where these are located and for that matter if my schematic matches your machine in
the first place.
Once you have the wiring diagram and you poke around a bit more to try to locate components, I can try to help.
Imran Malik
On Jan 28, 2024, at 4:48?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran,?
Sorry for the late response, just found your message in my junk ! Thanks for the wiring diagram , most useful as I seem to have misplaced mine. Looking on the circuit board, I could only find K1 and K4 and the other connecting block visible from the top
where the capacitors feed into. There is nothing on the circuit board where the K2 and K3 markings are. Do you know if the circuit board is serviceable or do I replace the whole unit ??
Thanks?
Alex
On 23 Jan 2024, at 23:50, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Yes, a wiring diagram. Sharing what I have but you should have a copy of yours. Now a days, it is placed in a pouch on the inside face of the electrical cabinet cover but not sure what they did back then.
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On Jan 23, 2024, at 5:59?PM, alexmoore4@... wrote:
?Hello Imran,
thanks for your kind response. ?I¡¯ll have a look for those components you mention tomorrow. I¡¯m not an electrician, although my brother is and if I can make it easier for him, all the better. I¡¯m guessing a schematic is a wiring diagram ?
Many thanks?
Alex
|
Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Ok thanks Tom. What is the advantage of tersa cutter blocks?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 16 Feb 2024, at 10:09?am, Tom Gensmer <tom@...> wrote:
?Hi Phil,?
?If you're exploring alternative cutter blocks, you could also look into whether there's a Tersa cutterblock available:?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
imran
David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer
Tom Gensmer