Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
On Tue, Jan 2, 2024 at 05:13 PM, Steven B wrote:
Wow, Rusty! Super nice.
How is the DRO housing attached to the flip stop?
Steve
?On Tue, Jan 2, 2024 at 05:13 PM, Steven B wrote:
Wow, Rusty! Super nice.
How is the DRO housing attached to the flip stop?
Steve
Steve, I drilled and tapped the head of the large black factory bolt. ?On my flip stops, that bolt will normally rotate with the flip stop so I used a bearing pressed into my new housings in an attempt to decouple mine from the OEM ones. ? I found that all of my Felder flip stops and bolts are not quite concentric and there is a little eccentric movement of the flip stop when I rotate it. ?This had the effect of shifting my digital housings ever so slightly - mostly in the fore and aft direction. ? There seem to be 4 diameters on my bolts but I can't tell if they are all perfectly concentric with one another. ?It's possible Felder tried to do something clever here by making the diameters slightly eccentric to preload the flip stop although I'm not sure how that would work unless it was clocked in a certain orientation. ? I also noticed that the actual flip stop plates are not a consistent thickness around their bores. ? This could be a difference in powder coat thickness, sloppy machining, or intentional as part of some clever system I can't quite understand. ? ?Regardless, I didn't like how much my digital housings shifted with flip stop rotation so I use a bearing to somewhat isolate them from the factory stops.  -Rusty
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Re: How to flush mount raised panel cutter
Dan, a couple additional comments about that Whitehill 190mm cutter. ?Whitehill can make custom profile knives with a cutting width up to about 75mm. ?Also, if you’re thinking of running it underneath the material, be aware of the shaper cavity restrictions that can prevent it lowering sufficiently. ?I posted about this several years ago in the following series:
Here are the restrictions for use on a Profil 45 for an under-cutter setup with the 190mm variant of that Whitehill panel raising cutter:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2024, at 5:40?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Dan,
I don’t know if this is the kind of thing you’re after, but I have had this 190mm Whitehill panel cutter (in steel rather than aluminum) since 2002 and love it specifically because of the width of the profile you can machine with it:
The stock profiles are shown here:
?
Here’s a photo of the cutter and one of the knives that illustrate the 54mm width of profile:
<ShotiMac_1971.jpeg>
You can see it being used in this setup:
<38347106692_5d0057c4c2_c.jpeg>
In that setup I have the spindle tilted backward 4° as you can visualize here:
<38347102752_6755dbc756_c.jpeg>
So depending on the tilt and depth of cut, you can get a variety of profiles even using just one of the 7 cutters profiles they offer:
<38347105722_ab3f75e6c4_c.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:45?PM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thank you all for the replies, it looks like the profile with add on molding will need to be at least 60mm wide so the larger 75mm knife would be ideal. I will look into the Whitehill catalog once more. I’ve had my eye on the flush mount felder multi head (forget exactly what it’s called) since I first saw Brent’s post on it so may just splurge and get a few cutters!? This is a probably a one off cabinet door job, client requested as much detail as possible. 95% of my work is flat panel and I prefer to keep it that way. Shaping mdf is yuck! Plum creek mdf does shape and sand really nice however.? On Jan 2, 2024, at 6:14 PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? Whitehill sells a panel cutter that is 190mm under or over. According to Brent at dovetail timberworks the larger cutter can accept knives upto 75mm x 15mm. They can custom grind knives of any profile, however you might find that profile already available. ??
Most of the wide profiles are listed at 55mm wide. Perhaps that’s not wide enough for your job but maybe worth?checking.?
Brent from dovetail timberworks provides the specs in his video here.?
The dimensions are at the 2:20 mark.?
I don’t have this panel cutter myself but I have been looking at the smaller one.?
Their kitchen set, which I do have, can machine tenons up to 45 mm.? On Tue, Jan 2, 2024 at 5:19?PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
HI Dan: ? It probably depends on how much you want to spend? I have a custom cabinet set from Rangate which gives a simple shaker profile (which I requested) and machines a 20mm tongue and groove. As with most Rangate
products, it has gorgeous extras built in so I can add chamfer or micro rounds to the profile. My set is designed to work with cabinet sized timbers up to 25mm. ? I usually use a flat panel these days, but the standard Rangate panel cutter works well for my cabinet setup. It is not flush mount but is able to machine a fairly large tongue (I forget exactly how big).
The standard profile inserts machine a tapered tongue but I prefer a straight tongue so I can have highly reactive timbers (expansion and contraction) go deep into the groove. To achieve this, I tilt the Rangate panel raiser so that it machines a straight
tongue. Works very well for me. ? I’m sure Greg would have my set on file and could produce a similar/same version for you. ?
Dr David Luckensmeyer ?
I thought about adding a spline afterwards but the downside is it will need another molding in the back like you say and that seems like too much work to achieve in a cabinet door.
Is there potentially an insert raised panel cutter on the market that has a wider profile capacity for such situations?
> On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:15 PM, Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ?Not sure if it’s possible to flush mount unless the panel raiser has a recess where the cap screw fits down. Way back I had a custom cutter made for this that was boarderline dangerous to run.
> Any more put a tongue on the stile and rail edge instead of a groove. This way the panel does not have to go in far. Downside is you will need another moulding on the back side to hold the panel.
> Maybe not acceptable for a cabinet door.
> On house doors I add a spline piece to accomplish this. But they are getting moulding both sides.
>
>
>
>
>
> <IMG_2553.jpeg>
> <IMG_1458.jpeg>
|
Re: How to flush mount raised panel cutter
Dan,
I don’t know if this is the kind of thing you’re after, but I have had this 190mm Whitehill panel cutter (in steel rather than aluminum) since 2002 and love it specifically because of the width of the profile you can machine with it:
The stock profiles are shown here:
?
Here’s a photo of the cutter and one of the knives that illustrate the 54mm width of profile:
You can see it being used in this setup:
In that setup I have the spindle tilted backward 4° as you can visualize here:
So depending on the tilt and depth of cut, you can get a variety of profiles even using just one of the 7 cutters profiles they offer:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:45?PM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thank you all for the replies, it looks like the profile with add on molding will need to be at least 60mm wide so the larger 75mm knife would be ideal. I will look into the Whitehill catalog once more. I’ve had my eye on the flush mount felder multi head (forget exactly what it’s called) since I first saw Brent’s post on it so may just splurge and get a few cutters!? This is a probably a one off cabinet door job, client requested as much detail as possible. 95% of my work is flat panel and I prefer to keep it that way. Shaping mdf is yuck! Plum creek mdf does shape and sand really nice however.? On Jan 2, 2024, at 6:14 PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? Whitehill sells a panel cutter that is 190mm under or over. According to Brent at dovetail timberworks the larger cutter can accept knives upto 75mm x 15mm. They can custom grind knives of any profile, however you might find that profile already available. ??
Most of the wide profiles are listed at 55mm wide. Perhaps that’s not wide enough for your job but maybe worth?checking.?
Brent from dovetail timberworks provides the specs in his video here.?
The dimensions are at the 2:20 mark.?
I don’t have this panel cutter myself but I have been looking at the smaller one.?
Their kitchen set, which I do have, can machine tenons up to 45 mm.? On Tue, Jan 2, 2024 at 5:19?PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
HI Dan: ? It probably depends on how much you want to spend? I have a custom cabinet set from Rangate which gives a simple shaker profile (which I requested) and machines a 20mm tongue and groove. As with most Rangate
products, it has gorgeous extras built in so I can add chamfer or micro rounds to the profile. My set is designed to work with cabinet sized timbers up to 25mm. ? I usually use a flat panel these days, but the standard Rangate panel cutter works well for my cabinet setup. It is not flush mount but is able to machine a fairly large tongue (I forget exactly how big).
The standard profile inserts machine a tapered tongue but I prefer a straight tongue so I can have highly reactive timbers (expansion and contraction) go deep into the groove. To achieve this, I tilt the Rangate panel raiser so that it machines a straight
tongue. Works very well for me. ? I’m sure Greg would have my set on file and could produce a similar/same version for you. ?
Dr David Luckensmeyer ?
I thought about adding a spline afterwards but the downside is it will need another molding in the back like you say and that seems like too much work to achieve in a cabinet door.
Is there potentially an insert raised panel cutter on the market that has a wider profile capacity for such situations?
> On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:15 PM, Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ?Not sure if it’s possible to flush mount unless the panel raiser has a recess where the cap screw fits down. Way back I had a custom cutter made for this that was boarderline dangerous to run.
> Any more put a tongue on the stile and rail edge instead of a groove. This way the panel does not have to go in far. Downside is you will need another moulding on the back side to hold the panel.
> Maybe not acceptable for a cabinet door.
> On house doors I add a spline piece to accomplish this. But they are getting moulding both sides.
>
>
>
>
>
> <IMG_2553.jpeg>
> <IMG_1458.jpeg>
|
Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
Wow, Rusty! Super nice.
How is the DRO housing attached to the flip stop?
Steve
|
Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
? Steven B.
Thank you for the info. ?I’ve been looking for a rip fence display housing as well. ?I have the rest of the system picked out. ?I’m going to use the Siko MA503/2 for my rip fence display.?
Thx,
Wade
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Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:08?PM, Steven B <sb@...> wrote:
?Wade,
Parts?3686K11 and 3686K15 (x2)
I trimmed off the flanges and then rounded them to match on the router table, prior to cutting it to length (1.625").?
I've got enough leftover to make a rip fence DRO too, just need the end caps.
Steve
|
Re: How to flush mount raised panel cutter
Thank you all for the replies, it looks like the profile with add on molding will need to be at least 60mm wide so the larger 75mm knife would be ideal. I will look into the Whitehill catalog once more. I’ve had my eye on the flush mount felder multi head (forget exactly what it’s called) since I first saw Brent’s post on it so may just splurge and get a few cutters!? This is a probably a one off cabinet door job, client requested as much detail as possible. 95% of my work is flat panel and I prefer to keep it that way. Shaping mdf is yuck! Plum creek mdf does shape and sand really nice however.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2024, at 6:14 PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? Whitehill sells a panel cutter that is 190mm under or over. According to Brent at dovetail timberworks the larger cutter can accept knives upto 75mm x 15mm. They can custom grind knives of any profile, however you might find that profile already available. ??
Most of the wide profiles are listed at 55mm wide. Perhaps that’s not wide enough for your job but maybe worth?checking.?
Brent from dovetail timberworks provides the specs in his video here.?
The dimensions are at the 2:20 mark.?
I don’t have this panel cutter myself but I have been looking at the smaller one.?
Their kitchen set, which I do have, can machine tenons up to 45 mm.? On Tue, Jan 2, 2024 at 5:19?PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
HI Dan:
?
It probably depends on how much you want to spend? I have a custom cabinet set from Rangate which gives a simple shaker profile (which I requested) and machines a 20mm tongue and groove. As with most Rangate
products, it has gorgeous extras built in so I can add chamfer or micro rounds to the profile. My set is designed to work with cabinet sized timbers up to 25mm.
?
I usually use a flat panel these days, but the standard Rangate panel cutter works well for my cabinet setup. It is not flush mount but is able to machine a fairly large tongue (I forget exactly how big).
The standard profile inserts machine a tapered tongue but I prefer a straight tongue so I can have highly reactive timbers (expansion and contraction) go deep into the groove. To achieve this, I tilt the Rangate panel raiser so that it machines a straight
tongue. Works very well for me.
?
I’m sure Greg would have my set on file and could produce a similar/same version for you.
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
I thought about adding a spline afterwards but the downside is it will need another molding in the back like you say and that seems like too much work to achieve in a cabinet door.
Is there potentially an insert raised panel cutter on the market that has a wider profile capacity for such situations?
> On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:15 PM, Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ?Not sure if it’s possible to flush mount unless the panel raiser has a recess where the cap screw fits down. Way back I had a custom cutter made for this that was boarderline dangerous to run.
> Any more put a tongue on the stile and rail edge instead of a groove. This way the panel does not have to go in far. Downside is you will need another moulding on the back side to hold the panel.
> Maybe not acceptable for a cabinet door.
> On house doors I add a spline piece to accomplish this. But they are getting moulding both sides.
>
>
>
>
>
> <IMG_2553.jpeg>
> <IMG_1458.jpeg>
|
Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
Steve, ?Those look nice! ? I finished up my today as well. .    -Rusty.
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Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
Wade,
Parts?3686K11 and 3686K15 (x2)
I trimmed off the flanges and then rounded them to match on the router table, prior to cutting it to length (1.625").?
I've got enough leftover to make a rip fence DRO too, just need the end caps.
Steve
|
Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
Steven B,
Looks nice! ?
Which housing did you use from McMaster-Carr?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2024, at 3:18?PM, Steven B <sb@...> wrote:
?Happy new year, FOG! Here's my entry into the DRO contest?
?
<IMG_4872.JPG> <IMG_4873.JPG> <IMG_4874.JPG> <IMG_4875.JPG> I sourced some aluminum PCB housing from McMaster, cut it to size and cut a hole for the DRO to fit into the face. Welded up a simple stainless bracket to fit both parts together. I mounted it on the left side so it can clear the Mac clamps for narrower rips. Steve
|
Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
Happy new year, FOG! Here's my entry into the DRO contest?
?
    I sourced some aluminum PCB housing from McMaster, cut it to size and cut a hole for the DRO to fit into the face. Welded up a simple stainless bracket to fit both parts together. I mounted it on the left side so it can clear the Mac clamps for narrower rips. Steve
|
Re: How to flush mount raised panel cutter
Whitehill sells a panel cutter that is 190mm under or over. According to Brent at dovetail timberworks the larger cutter can accept knives upto 75mm x 15mm. They can custom grind knives of any profile, however you might find that profile already available. ??
Most of the wide profiles are listed at 55mm wide. Perhaps that’s not wide enough for your job but maybe worth?checking.?
Brent from dovetail timberworks provides the specs in his video here.?
The dimensions are at the 2:20 mark.?
I don’t have this panel cutter myself but I have been looking at the smaller one.?
Their kitchen set, which I do have, can machine tenons up to 45 mm.?
On Tue, Jan 2, 2024 at 5:19?PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
HI Dan:
?
It probably depends on how much you want to spend? I have a custom cabinet set from Rangate which gives a simple shaker profile (which I requested) and machines a 20mm tongue and groove. As with most Rangate
products, it has gorgeous extras built in so I can add chamfer or micro rounds to the profile. My set is designed to work with cabinet sized timbers up to 25mm.
?
I usually use a flat panel these days, but the standard Rangate panel cutter works well for my cabinet setup. It is not flush mount but is able to machine a fairly large tongue (I forget exactly how big).
The standard profile inserts machine a tapered tongue but I prefer a straight tongue so I can have highly reactive timbers (expansion and contraction) go deep into the groove. To achieve this, I tilt the Rangate panel raiser so that it machines a straight
tongue. Works very well for me.
?
I’m sure Greg would have my set on file and could produce a similar/same version for you.
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
I thought about adding a spline afterwards but the downside is it will need another molding in the back like you say and that seems like too much work to achieve in a cabinet door.
Is there potentially an insert raised panel cutter on the market that has a wider profile capacity for such situations?
> On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:15 PM, Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ?Not sure if it’s possible to flush mount unless the panel raiser has a recess where the cap screw fits down. Way back I had a custom cutter made for this that was boarderline dangerous to run.
> Any more put a tongue on the stile and rail edge instead of a groove. This way the panel does not have to go in far. Downside is you will need another moulding on the back side to hold the panel.
> Maybe not acceptable for a cabinet door.
> On house doors I add a spline piece to accomplish this. But they are getting moulding both sides.
>
>
>
>
>
> <IMG_2553.jpeg>
> <IMG_1458.jpeg>
|
Re: How to flush mount raised panel cutter
HI Dan:
?
It probably depends on how much you want to spend? I have a custom cabinet set from Rangate which gives a simple shaker profile (which I requested) and machines a 20mm tongue and groove. As with most Rangate
products, it has gorgeous extras built in so I can add chamfer or micro rounds to the profile. My set is designed to work with cabinet sized timbers up to 25mm.
?
I usually use a flat panel these days, but the standard Rangate panel cutter works well for my cabinet setup. It is not flush mount but is able to machine a fairly large tongue (I forget exactly how big).
The standard profile inserts machine a tapered tongue but I prefer a straight tongue so I can have highly reactive timbers (expansion and contraction) go deep into the groove. To achieve this, I tilt the Rangate panel raiser so that it machines a straight
tongue. Works very well for me.
?
I’m sure Greg would have my set on file and could produce a similar/same version for you.
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
I thought about adding a spline afterwards but the downside is it will need another molding in the back like you say and that seems like too much work to achieve in a cabinet door.
Is there potentially an insert raised panel cutter on the market that has a wider profile capacity for such situations?
> On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:15 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
>
> ?Not sure if it’s possible to flush mount unless the panel raiser has a recess where the cap screw fits down. Way back I had a custom cutter made for this that was boarderline dangerous to run.
> Any more put a tongue on the stile and rail edge instead of a groove. This way the panel does not have to go in far. Downside is you will need another moulding on the back side to hold the panel.
> Maybe not acceptable for a cabinet door.
> On house doors I add a spline piece to accomplish this. But they are getting moulding both sides.
>
>
>
>
>
> <IMG_2553.jpeg>
> <IMG_1458.jpeg>
|
Preparing AD941 for Moving
I've got a ~1,000 mile interstate move comming and I've opted to crate some of my larger tools (and leave some new tools in their factory crate, such as the K700S) to make it easier to ship and temporarily store in a storage facility while I get flooring and electrical done in the new work area. The bandsaw and dust collector have already been crated. I decided the cost of $200 of OSB and 2x4's would greatley outweight any damage that could be caused during transit (moving shop tools myself).
Initially was a requirement to get some OEM style hold-downs made, which arrived today from 0.119" mild steel, a quick test shows they will work fine, will likley get some GRK's to secure them to the pallet.
Whilst I would of preferred using Cosmoline sheets to protect cast-iron surfaces, I've done some tests with the lanoline based Fluid Film, and looks like it will work fine.?
I finished the initial pallet today, its been fun doing some construction-related work instead of furniture, where there isnt any sanding or dimensions to be overly concerned about. At the moment the pallet is made of 2x4's with three lengths, and four cross braces with a 3/4" OSB top. I've also doubled up the OSB underneath to make sure all of the hold-downs land in a 2x4 or ~1 1/2" of plywood. Opted for a ~36" x 91" pallet which should fit the footprint of the machine, with a 26" gap between the center supports to allow a narrow pallet jack under easy.
Likley going to box up the fence and extension table seperatley.
I'll add more as I finish up the boxing over the comming week. Doing some testing so far the frame is very ridgid and should do well.
?
Regards
Karl
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Re: How to flush mount raised panel cutter
I thought about adding a spline afterwards but the downside is it will need another molding in the back like you say and that seems like too much work to achieve in a cabinet door. Is there potentially an insert raised panel cutter on the market that has a wider profile capacity for such situations?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2024, at 4:15 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?Not sure if it’s possible to flush mount unless the panel raiser has a recess where the cap screw fits down. Way back I had a custom cutter made for this that was boarderline dangerous to run.
Any more put a tongue on the stile and rail edge instead of a groove. This way the panel does not have to go in far. Downside is you will need another moulding on the back side to hold the panel.
Maybe not acceptable for a cabinet door.
On house doors I add a spline piece to accomplish this. But they are getting moulding both sides.
<IMG_2553.jpeg>
<IMG_1458.jpeg>
|
Re: How to flush mount raised panel cutter
Not sure if it’s possible to flush mount unless the panel raiser has a recess where the cap screw fits down. Way back I had a custom cutter made for this that was boarderline dangerous to run.
Any more put a tongue on the stile and rail edge instead of a groove. This way the panel does not have to go in far. Downside is you will need another moulding on the back side to hold the panel.
Maybe not acceptable for a cabinet door.
On house doors I add a spline piece to accomplish this. But they are getting moulding both sides.
|
Re: stuck blade, not bad switch
Bob,
I you want me to look into what could possibly activate the brake please share a copy of your ?schematic here or privately. At some time, the brake board design was updated where the brake board is connected to the normally closed auxiliary contacts of K1 relay. When I asked Felder tech if this is to ensure that braking occurs at proper time, he agreed. However, I am not sure if I should take it to the bank but that seemed like the most logical reason.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2024, at 2:48 PM, Bob Wise <bob@...> wrote: ? I was not operating it when this happened. Had been sitting for a few hours. Wow, it appears that the brake was engaged/operating.
Did you by any chance start the saw and stop it and then restarted while the brake was still operating?
If not then, it is possible that the brake is coming on when it should not. On Jan 2, 2024, at 10:58 AM, Bob Wise < bob@...> wrote: ? I've had this intermittent problem on my 2006 K700S? which I posted on here before where the saw won't turn on. Got some appreciated?advice about troubleshooting the switch. Wasn't able to find the problem. Note that I habitually?use ear protection.?
Yesterday I turned the saw on for a small cut and skipped the ears. Blade didn't spin up but I heard a low hum when I hit the on switch. Turned it off. Pushed the blade with a push stick.... it was hard to turn, but then it loosened. Hit the on switch, started up and ran great. Has happened again once since that first time.
Any?suggestions for troubleshooting? Problem with the brake not disengaging maybe?
-Bob
|
Re: stuck blade, not bad switch
I was not operating it when this happened. Had been sitting for a few hours.
Wow, it appears that the brake was engaged/operating.
Did you by any chance start the saw and stop it and then restarted while the brake was still operating?
If not then, it is possible that the brake is coming on when it should not. On Jan 2, 2024, at 10:58 AM, Bob Wise < bob@...> wrote: ? I've had this intermittent problem on my 2006 K700S? which I posted on here before where the saw won't turn on. Got some appreciated?advice about troubleshooting the switch. Wasn't able to find the problem. Note that I habitually?use ear protection.?
Yesterday I turned the saw on for a small cut and skipped the ears. Blade didn't spin up but I heard a low hum when I hit the on switch. Turned it off. Pushed the blade with a push stick.... it was hard to turn, but then it loosened. Hit the on switch, started up and ran great. Has happened again once since that first time.
Any?suggestions for troubleshooting? Problem with the brake not disengaging maybe?
-Bob
|
Re: Felder K700S (and others) Wenge Zero Clearance Inserts
I'd also like a couple for a K500 if you can make?them.? Price set yet?
Bryan Crum
On Tue, Jan 2, 2024 at 8:10?AM Bob Wise < bob@...> wrote: Me, too. bob@.... Will they fit a 2006?
|
Re: stuck blade, not bad switch
Wow, it appears that the brake was engaged/operating.
Did you by any chance start the saw and stop it and then restarted while the brake was still operating?
If not then, it is possible that the brake is coming on when it should not.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2024, at 10:58 AM, Bob Wise <bob@...> wrote: ? I've had this intermittent problem on my 2006 K700S? which I posted on here before where the saw won't turn on. Got some appreciated?advice about troubleshooting the switch. Wasn't able to find the problem. Note that I habitually?use ear protection.?
Yesterday I turned the saw on for a small cut and skipped the ears. Blade didn't spin up but I heard a low hum when I hit the on switch. Turned it off. Pushed the blade with a push stick.... it was hard to turn, but then it loosened. Hit the on switch, started up and ran great. Has happened again once since that first time.
Any?suggestions for troubleshooting? Problem with the brake not disengaging maybe?
-Bob
|
Re: How to flush mount raised panel cutter
On Jan 2, 2024, at 11:35 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk via groups.io <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? I’ve got a client that’s looking to get the attached profile for a cabinet door with this raised panel style. ?The standard 1.5” Amana shaper cutter profile width is not wide enough for the add-on trim detail. I’m wondering if there’s a way to flush mount the cutter with my existing felder spindle to get a larger tongue? Any other ideas or suggestions??
?
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David P. Best
Dan Gavrilyuk
David Luckensmeyer
imran