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this is actually one of the reason I sold my AD951... I cant easily see the motor and it looks tedious to access...

The motor is likely going to be 60-70 lbs, if you decide to try to remove it.? You could try some stubby/ratcheting screw drivers: https://www.amazon.com/stubby-screwdriver/s?k=stubby+screwdriver Or

Back in 2001, Felder sent a tech to replace the motors in my AD741 and KF700. I can’t remember for sure, but he took off the back panel and jacked the machine up onto several 4x4’s so that it was

Does anyone have any insight into how to safely access the motor on an AD741? The fan fell off the end of the motor shaft and is trapped inside the housing to horrendous screeching and grinding. I got

Thanks for all the advice. I took a little from everyone and managed to make adjustments to the slider, tightened the belt, and check the position of the blade in regard to the rip fence. I viewed

Any three phase motor can be controlled by a VFD. I have an old Powermatic drill press, 20” model and it has a three phase 1hp motor that I have set up with a small VFD. The machine has a Reeves

Anyone know if there any motor and controller options for adding variable speed to drill presses? I have an old Rockwell with foot pedal operation that I’d like to upgrade but not replace.

Dave .. 1. Mounting the head was a nightmare as I attempted this on my own. It is tricky enough to fit (wrestle!) the heavy pillar into the mating section of the head, which is done with these parts

Thanks for the info, Derek. A couple of comments and questions: * How did you mount the head on the pillar when the thing arrived? Is this a well-prep'd one person job or does it need some sort of

Can anyone recommend an independent Felder engineer covering the Hampshire area of the UK? Thanks

Dave, here is a little bit more commentary on the Voyager. I started out wanting a variable speed pillar drill. My initial concern was the longevity of the computer - I always have preferred analogue

I noticed at the bottom of Felder's promo email for AWFS that they have a raffle for a "lift table" at the end of the month if you visit their booth. I assume this means a FAT 300, if anyone is going

Thanks to all those who've taken the time to reply so far. * David Best: " Makes me wonder if members here ever search the message archive." ... oops! Guilty, as charged. * A question for those of you

https://woodweb.com/exchanges/machinery/posts/542047.html Dave Davies

When I used to set up we were trained to use the 4 mm t wrench for the cutter knife on flat at handle end and points on lead edge. martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi

I don’t know if there is any ideal gap, but I’ve always heard 3mm at the front edge and then it might be wider at the back by the time you set the toe out. Brian Lamb blamb11@...

Hello everyone and happy Friday! I am recalibrating my cf 741 and wanted to know what the ideal gap should be between the slider and the cast iron top? Thanks! Peter

Jason,?I have already given my two cents? to many times and nobody seems to pay? a rats ass what i say .But a good vise is advisable .?mac,,,? martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood

I'm glad someone mentioned this. I have shop where I do mixed wood and metal work. I had a drillpress and then I got a bridgeport clone. The drillpress went so unused afterwards that I ended up

Jason, I’m with you on the Clausing, those are nice drill presses for wood working and some metal working. I’m expecting to pay 2500-$3000 for one in good condition. Also trading some window work