AD941 Alignment Procedure
Thanks to Imran for getting me oriented on the alignment procedure. Remembering how hard it was to install the plastic end on the euro blade guard, I was hesitant to remove the shroud that ties the two tables together, because the blade guard needs removed. I learned that it's not practical to align the machine without removing the shroud, so I modified one of the plastic ends to slide out. It just requires removing the top lip.
I attach the procedure that worked for me and hope it's accurate enough to be useful for someone else.? I'd imagine there are other variables and I was lucky, but this procedure produced flat boards in under two hours.?
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Re: AD941 installing fence support bar
How are you liking the machine??
As everyone has said (and probably you have discovered too) the "instruction manual" (really...just diagrams) is only mildly helpful. I actually am getting my AD941 commissioned on Wed, 7/5, so I haven't put any wood through it yet and only got it operational in the last couple of days. But my impression of my first time with this level/quality of machine is...it is very "stout". Other than the silly, stamped metal piece that covers the cutterhead when you move the jointer fence...everything else about the machine just is heavy duty and has a quality feel I've not experienced (even, honestly, with my SawStop PCS table saw...which was my nicest machine up to this point).
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Re: 3 phase high leg placement
I can confirm the 2nd leg, I just completed the commissioning form for my saw shaper.? Tolve construction
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 12:19 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Chris, ? I have an odd interest in Felder electrical schematics. The one you shared is very intriguing. I do not have exposure to older Felder schematics, so this one is new to me. More on this later, but I would follow Rod’s direction to identify the 2 lines connected to the transformer. I checked Rod’s suggestion against one schematic and it looks good. Basically, the way machine is wired only one pair will measure resistance, which is the resistance of the transformer input winding. A measurement on the 2 other pairings should be high resistance as you are measuring an open. If you measure resistance on more than 1 pair then I would not use this method. In that case, there are slightly more involved methods that could be utilized. BTW, I did not follow Rod’s step 6, I think there is a word missing but I understand the concept, hopefully you do too. ? Now back to your schematic. Your machine uses a PCB mounted solution. I have seen pictures of a larger PCB in an older KF700 but this one is rather small. It is from Siemens and PN is C98 451-D6094-A1. It is obsolete but I found a German site that apparently offers repaired units. ? Read on if further details are of interest to you. There are 3 images on the site but one below is good for illustration. I have attached a marked up drawing of this board, identifying few components and transferring signal types to the connectors for ease in locating them. ? <image001.jpg> ? The 24 VAC transformer is on bottom left. Based upon other Felder schematics that I have looked at, here is what I believe are some key components. K1 and K4 (tall black blocks with white covers) are relays. Typically one is start relay that turns on momentarily and then drops off, the 2nd one is latched and drops off with red button or any interlock. 3 brick red coils (with a wire going thru the middle) are for current sensing, assuming for braking function. Two white blocks, identified on mark up as S1 & S2, are likely for adjusting brake force and duration. ? Imran Malik ? ? ? Thanks for that Rod. The Felder tech I spoke with yesterday told me that 99% of the time the manufactured leg will go to Line 2 on the machine (usually brown wire). I will try you method to verify. ?I have attached the wiring diagram from my F700 shaper, any chance you could explain how one might decipher where the manufactured ?leg should go based on the diagram? Thank you ? ?
? Hi, the issue is to determine which 2 phases the control power supplies for the machine are connected to, you want those two lines connected to the non manufactured line of the phase converter.
If you have a true digital phase converter (rectifier/inverter) then it doesn?�?t matter, if you have a rotary converter it does matter.
You can check the drawing for your machine however I normally use a DVM to verify it.
1) unplug the machine, or open the breaker in the distribution panel
2) using AC Volts on the meter verify that you have no power in the machine
3) close (Turn on) the disconnect switch for the machine
4) using Ohms function on the DVM measure Phase A to Phase B, Phase A to phase C, and Phase B to Phase C
5) only one of those pairs will have continuity, maybe 10 to 100 ohms, this pair is the one with the control power supplies, it must be fed from the non manufactured line
6) you now need to either one of the control power leads in the machine to the non manufactured phase or reverse one pair of phases in the machine plug (doesn?�?t matter which pair)
7) If your machine motor goes backwards after changing the plug above, interchange one pair of wires going to the motor to reverse rotation, it doesn?�?t matter which pair.
Regards, Rod
? <Siemens C98 451-D6094-A1 Mark up.JPG>
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Re: 3 phase high leg placement
Hi Chris, ? I have an odd interest in Felder electrical schematics. The one you shared is very intriguing. I do not have exposure to older Felder schematics, so this one is new to me. More on this later, but I would follow Rod’s direction to identify the 2 lines connected to the transformer. I checked Rod’s suggestion against one schematic and it looks good. Basically, the way machine is wired only one pair will measure resistance, which is the resistance of the transformer input winding. A measurement on the 2 other pairings should be high resistance as you are measuring an open. If you measure resistance on more than 1 pair then I would not use this method. In that case, there are slightly more involved methods that could be utilized. BTW, I did not follow Rod’s step 6, I think there is a word missing but I understand the concept, hopefully you do too. ? Now back to your schematic. Your machine uses a PCB mounted solution. I have seen pictures of a larger PCB in an older KF700 but this one is rather small. It is from Siemens and PN is C98 451-D6094-A1. It is obsolete but I found a German site that apparently offers repaired units. ? Read on if further details are of interest to you. There are 3 images on the site but one below is good for illustration. I have attached a marked up drawing of this board, identifying few components and transferring signal types to the connectors for ease in locating them. ? 
? The 24 VAC transformer is on bottom left. Based upon other Felder schematics that I have looked at, here is what I believe are some key components. K1 and K4 (tall black blocks with white covers) are relays. Typically one is start relay that turns on momentarily and then drops off, the 2nd one is latched and drops off with red button or any interlock. 3 brick red coils (with a wire going thru the middle) are for current sensing, assuming for braking function. Two white blocks, identified on mark up as S1 & S2, are likely for adjusting brake force and duration. ? Imran Malik ? ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of chris connolly Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2023 11:12 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] 3 phase high leg placement ? Thanks for that Rod. The Felder tech I spoke with yesterday told me that 99% of the time the manufactured leg will go to Line 2 on the machine (usually brown wire). I will try you method to verify. ?I have attached the wiring diagram from my F700 shaper, any chance you could explain how one might decipher where the manufactured ?leg should go based on the diagram? Thank you ? ?
? Hi, the issue is to determine which 2 phases the control power supplies for the machine are connected to, you want those two lines connected to the non manufactured line of the phase converter.
If you have a true digital phase converter (rectifier/inverter) then it doesn?�?t matter, if you have a rotary converter it does matter.
You can check the drawing for your machine however I normally use a DVM to verify it.
1) unplug the machine, or open the breaker in the distribution panel
2) using AC Volts on the meter verify that you have no power in the machine
3) close (Turn on) the disconnect switch for the machine
4) using Ohms function on the DVM measure Phase A to Phase B, Phase A to phase C, and Phase B to Phase C
5) only one of those pairs will have continuity, maybe 10 to 100 ohms, this pair is the one with the control power supplies, it must be fed from the non manufactured line
6) you now need to either one of the control power leads in the machine to the non manufactured phase or reverse one pair of phases in the machine plug (doesn?�?t matter which pair)
7) If your machine motor goes backwards after changing the plug above, interchange one pair of wires going to the motor to reverse rotation, it doesn?�?t matter which pair.
Regards, Rod
?
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Re: AD941 installing fence support bar
Thanks Andy,
I’m leaning that way too. ?Seems logical.
How are you liking the machine??
Thx,
Wade
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 5:39 AM, andy.pickler@... wrote:
?I just received my AD941, and this is what I did (not that it is correct). I used the spacers to ensure a consistent distance for both the left and right attachment points, and I figured that would better ensure that the jointer fence was perpendicular to the cutterhead. I did not use the big washers on the backside but rather the two washers ("ball socket 1" and "ball socket 2") that have one side each that is concave/convex and fit effectively "inside" each other. <IMG_3444.jpeg> <IMG_3443.jpeg>
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Re: Couple more questions
Thank you so much Imran and Brian! as soon as I get back to my shop, I am going to see about doing a set up and see if I can figure this out. On the beach right now soaking up the sun and grinding in the sand.
Happy Fourth of July weekend to you all!
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 12:45 PM, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Imran, Thanks I would like to see that. Chris Rozycki? On Jul 1, 2023, at 10:52 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Set up is pretty simple on the shaper spindle. Use a pair of calipers and check the step on the cap, say it’s 8mm, then just make sure the space from the top ring down to the actual shaper spindle is at least 1mm longer than the step on the cap. Tighten securely and you should never have a problem. None of this eyeball crap, just measure and make sure.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Jul 1, 2023, at 6:50 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Joe,
This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.
On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don’t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.
A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don’t ask how I know this.
Joe
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Re: Couple more questions
Thanks Brian! It’s beginning to make sense. Chris Rozycki?
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 12:45 PM, croz1950@... wrote:
? Imran, Thanks I would like to see that. Chris Rozycki? On Jul 1, 2023, at 10:52 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Set up is pretty simple on the shaper spindle. Use a pair of calipers and check the step on the cap, say it’s 8mm, then just make sure the space from the top ring down to the actual shaper spindle is at least 1mm longer than the step on the cap. Tighten securely and you should never have a problem. None of this eyeball crap, just measure and make sure.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Jul 1, 2023, at 6:50 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Joe,
This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.
On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don’t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.
A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don’t ask how I know this.
Joe
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Re: Couple more questions
Imran, Thanks I would like to see that. Chris Rozycki?
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 10:52 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Set up is pretty simple on the shaper spindle. Use a pair of calipers and check the step on the cap, say it’s 8mm, then just make sure the space from the top ring down to the actual shaper spindle is at least 1mm longer than the step on the cap. Tighten securely and you should never have a problem. None of this eyeball crap, just measure and make sure.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Jul 1, 2023, at 6:50 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Joe,
This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.
On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don’t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.
A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don’t ask how I know this.
Joe
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Re: Couple more questions
Hi Chris,
Here are couple of images. I am using prolock caps so you should measure your cap.
Measure protrusion on the underside of cap (illustration pic as I cannot hold caliper properly while taking pic).
In my case it is about 5mm
Measure the recess depth of the spindle
I am not an expert to state how much more depth you should have but I see Brian’s response so will defer to that.
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:07 AM, Christopher Rozycki <croz1950@...> wrote: ? Responding to Imran’s post.? First, thank you for this information and explanation…but shouldn’t there be a clear and scientific/engineering based explanation of how to set this tool up correctly? It all sounds too touchy feely for me…and too prone to operator error. My C3-31 has been great, but I am still trying to complete the transition from my great shop made router table to the somewhat scary spindle shaper. Not to mention, the spindle shaper on the C3-31 seems less flexible than my router table. Am I wrong? Or just not understanding how to use this tool? Thanks for any feedback, advice, and input. Chris? Chris Rozycki? On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:40 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?Hi David, that’s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.
If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25”, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.
I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25” cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful……..Regards, Rod
Regards, Rod
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Re: 3 phase high leg placement
Thanks for that Rod. The Felder tech I spoke with yesterday told me that 99% of the time the manufactured leg will go to Line 2 on the machine (usually brown wire). I will try you method to verify. ?I have attached the wiring diagram from my F700 shaper, any chance you could explain how one might decipher where the manufactured ?leg should go based on the diagram? Thank you ?
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Hi, the issue is to determine which 2 phases the control power supplies for the machine are connected to, you want those two lines connected to the non manufactured line of the phase converter.
If you have a true digital phase converter (rectifier/inverter) then it doesn’t matter, if you have a rotary converter it does matter.
You can check the drawing for your machine however I normally use a DVM to verify it.
1) unplug the machine, or open the breaker in the distribution panel
2) using AC Volts on the meter verify that you have no power in the machine
3) close (Turn on) the disconnect switch for the machine
4) using Ohms function on the DVM measure Phase A to Phase B, Phase A to phase C, and Phase B to Phase C
5) only one of those pairs will have continuity, maybe 10 to 100 ohms, this pair is the one with the control power supplies, it must be fed from the non manufactured line
6) you now need to either one of the control power leads in the machine to the non manufactured phase or reverse one pair of phases in the machine plug (doesn’t matter which pair)
7) If your machine motor goes backwards after changing the plug above, interchange one pair of wires going to the motor to reverse rotation, it doesn’t matter which pair.
Regards, Rod
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Re: Couple more questions
Set up is pretty simple on the shaper spindle. Use a pair of calipers and check the step on the cap, say it’s 8mm, then just make sure the space from the top ring down to the actual shaper spindle is at least 1mm longer than the step on the cap. Tighten securely and you should never have a problem. None of this eyeball crap, just measure and make sure.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 6:50 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Joe,
This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.
On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don’t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.
A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don’t ask how I know this.
Joe
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Re: AD941 installing fence support bar
Wade,
I think the round bar was installed on my AD741 when it was delivered, that is why I cannot find the install instruction in the AD741 manual.
Felder might have adjusted the round bar installation. But either way, that is not?a major problem. You can just do what AD941 describes.
James?
James,
The manual is showing the backside washers as being called ball socket 1 & 2.? See picture, circled in red.? No signs of the larger diameter washers being used. ?
The ball socket like washers have corresponding concave faces that fit into one another.? Not sure why they have this shape to them. ?
Wade
 ? Wade,
larger?washers are used on the backside of the casting. If my memory?serves me correctly, it is a washer (not a split washer) like the one in your picture sitting between the casting and the nut.?
James
James,
Thank you for your help.? In that first picture, is that a split washer sitting between the casting and the nut?? And it looks like you did use the larger washers in the second picture on the backside of the casting.
Thx,
Wade
? Wade,
I have AD741, I believe the support bar is the same as AD941's. The description on the manual is correct, it is sort of German English :)
James Hello FOG members,
Could someone with an AD941 chime in on the proper assembly order for the support bar hardware.? Felder shows one thing in the manual, but then supplies the bar with these “spacers” that came already on the threaded rod.? Not sure if I remove these spacers or use them.? You can see them circled in red.? And, according to the manual, it appears that I don’t use the large washers at all.? Maybe these were for shipping purposes only.?
Thank You,
Wade
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Re: Couple more questions
Joe,
This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote: ?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don’t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.
A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don’t ask how I know this.
Joe
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Re: Couple more questions
To expand on set up .? Always use all safety precautions on test runs . I always shake the snot out of everything ,,,fence ,,,feeder before I turn the machine on.? When doing larger operation ?i approach like an Olympian ?and visualize the whole process .Ie radius work ?with out a feeder. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don’t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.
A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don’t ask how I know this.
Joe
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Re: Couple more questions
Chris,
There is a scientific/engineering explanation:
The recess (mentioned in my post) shall be greater than the raised part under the cap. Both can be measured. I can post pics when I am in the shop later.
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:07 AM, Christopher Rozycki <croz1950@...> wrote: ? Responding to Imran’s post.? First, thank you for this information and explanation…but shouldn’t there be a clear and scientific/engineering based explanation of how to set this tool up correctly? It all sounds too touchy feely for me…and too prone to operator error. My C3-31 has been great, but I am still trying to complete the transition from my great shop made router table to the somewhat scary spindle shaper. Not to mention, the spindle shaper on the C3-31 seems less flexible than my router table. Am I wrong? Or just not understanding how to use this tool? Thanks for any feedback, advice, and input. Chris? Chris Rozycki? On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:40 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?Hi David, that’s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.
If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25”, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.
I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25” cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful……..Regards, Rod
Regards, Rod
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Re: Couple more questions
A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don’t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.
A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don’t ask how I know this.
Joe
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Re: Couple more questions
Chris? You have good reason to be concerned shaper work as all work with machine tools and cutters is dangerous. No rings no loss clothing clean spindle and cutters , safety glasses of course. Full body cutters ! The advantage he is mass and ease of operation , high quality cut .? Start simple,,, 5” rebar block and work you way up. Most work in general is. Don w ith ?rebate cutters and groovers.? Leave round overs to dedicated hand routers!
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:07 AM, Christopher Rozycki <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Responding to Imran’s post.? First, thank you for this information and explanation…but shouldn’t there be a clear and scientific/engineering based explanation of how to set this tool up correctly? It all sounds too touchy feely for me…and too prone to operator error. My C3-31 has been great, but I am still trying to complete the transition from my great shop made router table to the somewhat scary spindle shaper. Not to mention, the spindle shaper on the C3-31 seems less flexible than my router table. Am I wrong? Or just not understanding how to use this tool? Thanks for any feedback, advice, and input. Chris? Chris Rozycki? On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:40 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?Hi David, that’s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.
If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25”, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.
I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25” cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful……..Regards, Rod
Regards, Rod
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Re: Couple more questions
Responding to Imran’s post.? First, thank you for this information and explanation…but shouldn’t there be a clear and scientific/engineering based explanation of how to set this tool up correctly? It all sounds too touchy feely for me…and too prone to operator error. My C3-31 has been great, but I am still trying to complete the transition from my great shop made router table to the somewhat scary spindle shaper. Not to mention, the spindle shaper on the C3-31 seems less flexible than my router table. Am I wrong? Or just not understanding how to use this tool? Thanks for any feedback, advice, and input.
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On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:40 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?Hi David, that’s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.
If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25”, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.
I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25” cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful……..Regards, Rod
Regards, Rod
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Re: Couple more questions
Hi David, that’s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.
If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25”, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.
I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25” cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful……..Regards, Rod
Regards, Rod
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Re: AD941 installing fence support bar
I just received my AD941, and this is what I did (not that it is correct). I used the spacers to ensure a consistent distance for both the left and right attachment points, and I figured that would better ensure that the jointer fence was perpendicular to the cutterhead. I did not use the big washers on the backside but rather the two washers ("ball socket 1" and "ball socket 2") that have one side each that is concave/convex and fit effectively "inside" each other.  
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Mike
Andy Pickler
imran
rodsheridan