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Interesting. This is different advice than the Preston video shared earlier. I’m not having trouble aligning the infeed and outfeed tables but rather the infeed table farthest from the cutter head

When I had my Felder engineer here for my Hammer C3 31 he had several tips regarding the jointer beds, maybe it will be of use for you: * If you have to replace the cutter head and need to start all

Here is another diy guard from Mike Farrington. https://youtu.be/nhEZEnu9Gak Jay

Hi Dave, Yes. Thanks for starting this thread. It’s something I need to think about and I can see the many advantages of this type of system. Axminster Tools have a few options available. I'm still

My question seems to have started a good discussion. There's an interesting design (similar to the commercial offerings people have mentioned) here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA-O-1qUDh4 I

I have Tersa on my Dual 51 and love it. Except when a contractor friend came over with 250 feet of 16” wide rough live oak to do S2S. We emptied the RL160 every single board. If you’re planning a

I have both the machines you’re looking at with Tersa. The president of Martin USA at the time recommended the Tersa, I have no regrets . Tom Morris Wichita, KS

Tom, Those router bits/shanks are made by Guhdo. I don’t own those specific bits, but I do own other shaper tooling made by Guhdo and it’s excellent quality. At one time most of the shaper tooling

Tom, in Europe these are ok for industrial boring gear, in metric and imperial. https://www.cmtorangetools.com/eu-en/industrial-boring-bits Don't know about availability your side of the pond. I

Tom I would be looking at Scherr router These are serious routers great features Mac,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330 cell

I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback?

John, I would assume Felder made some improvements. The tension must be adjustable. Remove 4 machine screws, so you can see how the guard is held in place. James

James, this is what mine looks like. My saw, K700S, arrived about 11 or 12 months ago. -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941

John, Yes, tension can be adjusted on the black knob. There is a nylon cap at the tip of the knob inside. After removing the machine screws, I got access to the nylon cap, just turned it

I had the Shark guard on my Unisaw. I liked it, and the dust collection was pretty good. My saw did not have a riving knife, though, so the guard was attached to the table. Every time I adjusted the

If you're referring to the video about the Harvey workstation that's on the page you linked, I don't even see the guard being moved in that video.? Perhaps there's another video out there, or I'm

If the overhead guard pivot-latch mechanism is anything like my Kappa 400, it’s pretty simple to add a release mechanism at the slider-side of the machine. Have a look at this mod: Kappa 400 Upgrade

Interesting. The video on the Harvey web page shows the guy pushing the guard “away” from his operator position instead of pulling it towards him. -Aaron Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2023 9:07 AM To:

Dave, have a look at Scott and sargents site, recently they sent me a flyer on overhead guards, they might have something interesting.

I have the Harvey guard that Aaron linked to mounted to my Hammer K3.? It's really well made and works fairly well.? Like all / most of these, the collection when trimming an edge is poor.? I've