Re: Parallel Guide for Hammer K3 mk3
I don't know if you can beat Brian Lamb's fence for simplicity and effectiveness. There's no need to square another piece of fence to the blade/slider. Brian's fence and Mac's clamps make an awesome duo.
Bill B¨¦langer
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This is brilliant, Derek!? I've started a file with ideas for a parallel guide for my C3 41, and this goes to the top of that list!
|
Re: Parallel Guide for Hammer K3 mk3
This is brilliant, Derek!? I've started a file with ideas for a parallel guide for my C3 41, and this goes to the top of that list!
|
I¡¯ve got it coplaner at the cutterhead but I can¡¯t get the infeed table (far infeed side) to come up at all. It droops a good 1mm from cutterhead to the edge of the infeed table. Everything else is perfect.? I¡¯m going to keep at it?
Well, taking that back plate off is the easiest part of it by a country mile.? To loosen and tighten that bolt, I used a wrench like this:? and it worked fine.
|
Well, taking that back plate off is the easiest part of it by a country mile.? To loosen and tighten that bolt, I used a wrench like this:? and it worked fine.
|
Re: Australian Wood Review - ISSUE 118
For those in the US, use ?? Mike King Special Consultant NERA Economic Consulting +1 303 618-4915
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 26, 2023, at 8:35 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Hi FOG:
?
As a follow-up, I was curious about the best way to access an article (mine or otherwise) from past issues of Australian Wood Review. It is not easy. I¡¯ve raised this several times with AWR and will continue
to do so. In talking to their administration, it appears that:
?
- Print issues are in short supply and sell out quite quickly. That¡¯s why there are few/no options for purchasing past issues in print. Digital is the
way to go.
?
- Ongoing (four issues per year) subscriptions are by far the cheapest. But if you subscribe today, for example, you will not receive the current issue
(118), and your subscription will start from 119. This makes sense but is frustrating for those who want to subscribe specifically because they see something they wanted to read in the current issue.
?
- If you want to purchase a past issue, you can only do so on an ¡°issue by issue¡± basis. There is no option (that I can find) to access some or all of
past issues. And the process for purchasing a past issue is not straightforward. Unfortunately.
?
To take out an ongoing subscription, navigate here:
?
There is a search icon at the top right. Enter ¡°Australian Wood Review¡± and the current issue is the first search return item. Click on it (Issue 118).
?
You will arrive at this page:
?
Click on ¡°Subscribe¡± and jump through the hoops. This will set you up for future issues if you so choose. My screen says it costs $29.26AUD to buy 4 issues as part of the ongoing subscription. This is atrociously
misleading because the cart has a picture of Issue 118. So you¡¯d think you¡¯d receive access to Issue 118, and ongoing. From what I understand, you only obtain access to Issue 119 and ongoing.
?
At $29AUD, I can imagine that is about $20USD. For four issues of a high quality woodworking magazine? BARGAIN (IMHO)!
?
Now, if you want to purchase a past Issue of AWR, say Issue 113 which has the ¡°Calibrating a Sliding Tablesaw¡± article in it, you need to scroll down, all the way to the bottom where you will see a section
called ¡°Recent Issues¡±. At the right, there is a ¡°View All¡± option which then brings up past issues for browsing.
?
I can now click on Issue 113, and this takes me to this page:
?
From here, I can select ¡°Buy Issue¡± for $11.55AUD and proceed to checkout. That equates to $7.77USD, according to Google exchange rates today. Again if I may be so bold as to say: that¡¯s a bargain even if
you¡¯re interested in only one article in the issue.
?
I think Australian Wood Review is an underrated and outstanding magazine. The editor in chief is an amazing lady who is herself an accomplished woodworker, who seems to know most people in the industry, and
has strongly advocated and indulged my offerings for the magazine. She agrees that the website for the magazine is not good, the purchasing avenues are not good, but that the business side of the magazine is well out of her wheelhouse.
?
I¡¯ve said it before, but people keep asking me for copies of my articles: I have been paid for my content and while I retain copyright, I have agreed not to disseminate my articles independently of the magazine,
except that I am allowed to share the first page for advertising purposes. I will
never give out a copy of my articles unless I get permission from the publishers. I¡¯m going to ask for that permission as the publishers are surely making diddly-squat (as we say here) on past issues ¨C they make it incredibly difficult to purchase past
material! If I get permission, absolutely I¡¯ll share them here. Otherwise, the articles are definitely available for digital purchase.
?
I¡¯m sorry for the frustration. I¡¯m frustrated too.
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
I just finished reading the air compressor article which was fantastic.
I have some AWR paperbacks but not all of them so I¡¯ll take a look for your other articles for the sliding table contents ?thanks for your contributions?
Hi FOG:
Almost purely out of self-interest, please find attached an annotated bibliography of my recent publications in Australian Wood Review magazine (Word and PDF versions). I say "almost" because maybe there is actually some content in there that can be helpful!
I'd probably rate the two articles on calibrating and using a sliding table as the most useful, followed up by the one on compressed air. I sure wish I had known the information contained in the "air" article before embarking on my first compressor. These
articles are short, so for the experts on the forum, there will be absolutely nothing new. I'd say that all the information could be found on this forum or elsewhere online. Therefore, these articles serve more as a summary of topics. And in that regard, quite
handy for those new to the hobby/industry. Cheers, Lucky
|
Parallel Guide for Hammer K3 mk3
Sam Blasco was my original inspiration for a parallel guide. Here is a video of Sam using his ¡
?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=9AHMTuw_Ghg&list=WL&index=20&ab_channel=SamBlasco
?
Mike Kreinhop made a great one using an Incra LS25 positioner ...
?
?
?
?
?
Then, two years into Covid and many tools are not available, I decided to use what I had and build my own. An Incra Positioner was out of the question, it is not available in Australia, with local versions costing upwards of $1000 (AUD).
?
?
The main component was a 1m length of 8020 aluminium extrusion, identical to the one I used for my router table fence ...
?
?
?
The fence came from an Incra mitre fence (which had been used with the original F&F I made a few years ago, and discarded when the reversed F&F was built).
?
This is what I came up with ...
?
?
?
Steel angle brackets are used to connect the base to the wagon ...
?
?
These were then shaped and given a wooden cover for aesthetics ...
?
?
The L-bracket on the underside which ensures the fence base is square to the side of the slider. This is adjustable ...
?
?
In fact, everything is adjustable on this fixture. The Incra fence is attached with small L-clips, and the side screws enable the fence to be moved in-and-out on each side ...
?
?
The base (rail) is a double sandwich of 8020 lengths ...
?
?
The lower rail is 400mm long, and the upper rail (connecting to the fence) is 900mm long. ?The fence is 470mm long and 40mm wide.
?
The lower rail has a sliding 6mm bolt (which can slide the full length) ...
?
?
?
The uppe rail, as shown here upside down, moves on and is squared by two UHMW slides. It also has two positions for the 6mm bolt - one at the rear and one near the front. These enable the full length of the rails to be used.
?
?
?
?
?
There is a total of 610mm width of cut when ripping. The scale on the upper rail is a steel rule. Alongside is an adjustable marker (I use the front edge) ...
?
?
?My K3 is a short stroke with the crosscut fence at the front of the slider wagon. The depth stop on this perfectly is aligned with the parallel guide.
?
The depth stop on the Incra fence slides along its face ...
?
?
The rails are attached via bolts to the side of the wagon, as shown earlier. The knobs allow for easier adjustment the full length of the slider ...
?
?
This enables boards of varying lengths to be held securely (stop-to-stop) ...
?
?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek Cohen
|
Yeah. That¡¯s a pain in the ass. My jointer needs adjustment tho. It¡¯s drooping on the infeed table and the outfeed table is too high above the cutter head. It¡¯s not really useable as is. ?I was concerned I¡¯d have to take that backplate off. I don¡¯t have a 10 - 12 inch long wrench to reach down between the jointer and shaper.?
?
|
Re: Altendorf, The inventor of the slider
I can absolutely justify the 75k, particularly when i buy it used off of someone for 20k 6-8 years later.?
|
Hi Andy,
Yes, I eventually had a tech come out and perform a calibration to get the machine perfect.? Cop-out, yes, but I'm not mechanically inclined, and the 16" jointer is, even according to the tech himself, a bear to get right.
I'll try to recall the rough outline:
There are the four bolts which must be loosened (easiest way to see them is in David's post above, /g/felderownersgroup/message/119170 the 4 bolt heads that are closest to the green circles) but just barely.? Leave them hand-snugged or better.?
Then, you must remove the back cover to expose access to the set screws which do the micro-adjusting.? If you look at this post on page 1: /g/felderownersgroup/message/119192 under the text "Here's the back view of the infeed side hinge:" you'll see a small, silver screw at the bottom of the picture.?? There are a handful of those screws securing a panel which wraps around to the end of the machine, and there is also a single, small bolt, deep in the crevasse between the j/p and the cast iron saw/shaper table.? The inner surface of the bolt head applies pressure against the panel, the body of the bolt does not penetrate the panel.? I had to buy a 10" long ratcheting wrench to get down there, because no human arm ever could.? Don't remove that bolt, but just loosen it enough so you can lift the panel up, and, with the handful of small screws removed, then remove the panel itself.??
At that point you'll have access to the two set screws for micro-adjusting.? They are underneath the hinge itself, and push up, which is why I couldn't find them.? These are for the final 10-20 thou of adjustment only.?
I think the inboard set screw is for adjusting the table at the cutter head, and the outboard is for getting the entire table in alignment...but they are inter-dependent, so you'll develop a feel.? I'm not sure about this, it's a bit hazy.
Which set screw to adjust to achieve what result is something I don't entirely remember, but let me promise you this:? if you are not mechanically inclined you might well be better leaving it alone.? Just loosening the 4 large bolts too much, and doing nothing else, will cause a drastic change in the adjustment of the entire infeed table.? Even if God came down from Heaven and adjusted everything for you to perfection, and all you had to do was tighten everything back up, the simple act of tightening the bolts will destroy the delicate balance of adjustments keeping the table where you want it.? I'd never heard of "bolt creep" before, but now I'm amazed at what a difference it makes.? You have to snug everything up a bit at a time, one after the other, so they all come tight together.? Tightening one bolt even a bit too much while the others are behind in their state of tightness will destroy all your adjustments.? So the simple act of tightening all the bolts is a delicate dance which must be managed with care.
Also, the adjustments are all inter-dependent, so adjusting one thing also has a not-so-modest effect on the other adjustments you made.? And just to top it off, when you're done and set the jointer table back down, and use the lever to secure the table down, you'll also have an impact on your adjustments.?
Again, this is all from memory based on what the tech told me/showed me.? I spent an hour learning from him, then left him for another 2 1/2 hours to finish.? That's how long it took a pro to calibrate my jointer, and that's perhaps the best warning I can give.?
I think there's a reason why nobody has posted a YouTube video on how to calibrate a 16" Hammer jointer.?? It's because 1) nobody really knows except the pros ( I think some very talented people can figure it out as they go, but aren't great at explaining it) and 2) the resulting video would be hours long, and require amazing camera work.
|
Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
Thx Roger.
Excellent explanation for "why". ? Your description fits perfectly for what I saw when the box was opened.
Brian
|
Re: Bill Belanger's products on Etsy
If anyone's looking for a 120mm to 5", one alternative is Felder 02.1.020 at $16.90. A 5" hose squeezes tight.
|
Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
Great post and that¡¯s a great tip to split the machines.
Connector blocks can work loose with vibration. ?That then causes a higher resistance connection which, with all that current flowing through, will get very hot and ultimately do what yours has done.
Many, many, many years ago, I used to work for the BBC on Outside Broadcasts (OB¡¯s). ?One time, the mains power panel had the same problem due to those vehicles pounding up and down the motorways. ?It became SOP to periodically go inside the panel and tighten up the blocks.
Roger
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I know this is an old thread but I accessed it about ten times when trying to sort out why my P/J motor would not start.
I also went through the rigmarole of trying to isolate the location of what I presumed was an electrical problem and arrived at the point where I found continuity on one of the motor windings (the contacts shown on one of the images posted by Annu) was faulty, pointing to the problem being located in the motor.
In order to access the motor, one either has to resort to the pallet jack method or as my smart electrician mate advised, simply unbolt the P/J module from the main body of the C3-31. ?As frightening and untenable as this seems, it was a breeze. ?I think there were nine bolts holding the two modules together and once removed -- accessed through the shaper door -- the two were separated and it was then simply a matter of tilting the module up on one end and the motor could be accessed.
Fortunately, the problem on my machine was in the connection box on the motor and once it was opened, the smell alone indicated a major mischief had occurred with the wires being fried in the connector block within which was partially melted and several of the wires welded together. The fix was achieved by simply replacing the connector block with a new one, reinserting the freshened wires and firing it up. ?Happy days!
Reconnecting the P/J module to the main body was a cinch and took all of about 30 mins.
Back to normal now but with the nagging, unanswered question -- what caused it to misbehave in the first place?
Incidentally, my local Felder man told me he doubted there was anew motor available in Australia and one would either need to be airfreighted from Austria or sent in a container (three months) or a possible more wallet friendly option would be to have the motor rewired. ?Fortunately, I did not need to go down that path.
Brian
|
Sorry to revive an old thread but did you ever resolve this? ?My C3-41 arrived with a factory standard spring joint I¡¯d like to eliminate.?
|
Re: Altendorf, The inventor of the slider
John,?
Paying for any higher end tool requires a different philosophy than the big-box retail?tool buyers.?
Paying for safety gear is just another philosophical choice - long-term cost/risk mitigation savings vs.? short-term profit margin increases...if you are just referring to economics and not moral or ethical reasons for the decision.
My bet is that these kinds of safety advancements being pioneered will become regulatory mandates or insurance underwriting mandates. It will push the industry forward with a higher level of safety, while making all new equipment more expensive with?the required safety features. Society will be better for it because long term medical costs and disability will be reduced by more, just by the measure of economics and not including considerations for morality/ethics. It will never affect the renegades so long as they can avoid the added costs, but those guys will diminish by attrition. I give it it 20 years.?
On Wed, Mar 1, 2023 at 7:21?AM Mike Leiferman < leiferman@...> wrote: I bought a 64 Chevelle from the original owner in the late 90¡±s.? She had the original window sticker. ?only bought ?two options: ?powerglide automatic and seat belts.? Think it had 40k miles.? Mostly to church and the grocery store. On Feb 28, 2023, at 6:08 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?A commercial shop with employees might very well be able to justify this type of saw given the decrease in insurance rates. One lost finger or hand could easily cost hundreds of thousands in claims.
As for volume, it¡¯s like anything else, quote 20 pieces vs. 100 pieces vs. 1000 pieces and the whole adoption of the technology becomes infinitely more affordable. Will it ever trickle down to all saws, I doubt it, but then some folks never thought seat belts and airbags would be in all cars either. It will most likely depend upon how many lawsuits come along as to how quick the safety approach wins out.
$75k is a lot of money. I¡¯m curious - how many of the people in this group who make a living in woodworking can justify that kind of outlay?
As far as volume goes, these features have to come on mass-market machines in order to get volume. Even the Hammer brand probably does not have enough volume to justify developing a less costly but still reliable version.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Made some sawdust yesterday.
Marty, You are a true Craftsman my friend. Beautiful!
Bill B¨¦langer
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yes, John, the chair in the background is the second chair I made 10 years ago for my mom.? I brought it over to use as a guide because it's easy for me to get confused when I'm shaping the pieces.
The chair is made with walnut - mostly from the root ball, and leopard wood in the seat and headrest.? Walnut was attached to the perimeter of the top of the seat with leopardwood underneath it.? The headrest is made in 4 pcs and the grain runs vertically in an attempt to make the seat appear to flow into the headrest.
This is the third chair I've made using the same pattern.? It is more challenging that the previous builds because I'm using wood from the root ball.? The wood moves a lot after it's cut to relieve internal stresses.? The wood movement caused the headrest of this chair to be? 2" narrower than the other chairs and the back legs rotated such that the headrest wasn't coplanar with the back legs.?
Here's a pic of the first chair which was made for my daughter as a gift for her first born?in 2012.? It's also made with walnut and leopardwood.
|
Re: Made some sawdust yesterday.
Yes, John, the chair in the background is the second chair I made 10 years ago for my mom.? I brought it over to use as a guide because it's easy for me to get confused when I'm shaping the pieces.
The chair is made with walnut - mostly from the root ball, and leopard wood in the seat and headrest.? Walnut was attached to the perimeter of the top of the seat with leopardwood underneath it.? The headrest is made in 4 pcs and the grain runs vertically in an attempt to make the seat appear to flow into the headrest.
This is the third chair I've made using the same pattern.? It is more challenging that the previous builds because I'm using wood from the root ball.? The wood moves a lot after it's cut to relieve internal stresses.? The wood movement caused the headrest of this chair to be? 2" narrower than the other chairs and the back legs rotated such that the headrest wasn't coplanar with the back legs.?
Here's a pic of the first chair which was made for my daughter as a gift for her first born?in 2012.? It's also made with walnut and leopardwood.
|
Re: Altendorf, The inventor of the slider
I bought a 64 Chevelle from the original owner in the late 90¡±s. ?She had the original window sticker. ?only bought ?two options: ?powerglide automatic and seat belts. ?Think it had 40k miles. ?Mostly to church and the grocery store.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 28, 2023, at 6:08 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? A commercial shop with employees might very well be able to justify this type of saw given the decrease in insurance rates. One lost finger or hand could easily cost hundreds of thousands in claims.
As for volume, it¡¯s like anything else, quote 20 pieces vs. 100 pieces vs. 1000 pieces and the whole adoption of the technology becomes infinitely more affordable. Will it ever trickle down to all saws, I doubt it, but then some folks never thought seat belts and airbags would be in all cars either. It will most likely depend upon how many lawsuits come along as to how quick the safety approach wins out.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Feb 28, 2023, at 4:59 PM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
$75k is a lot of money. I¡¯m curious - how many of the people in this group who make a living in woodworking can justify that kind of outlay?
As far as volume goes, these features have to come on mass-market machines in order to get volume. Even the Hammer brand probably does not have enough volume to justify developing a less costly but still reliable version.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
I know this is an old thread but I accessed it about ten times when trying to sort out why my P/J motor would not start.
I also went through the rigmarole of trying to isolate the location of what I presumed was an electrical problem and arrived at the point where I found continuity on one of the motor windings (the contacts shown on one of the images posted by Annu) was faulty, pointing to the problem being located in the motor.
In order to access the motor, one either has to resort to the pallet jack method or as my smart electrician mate advised, simply unbolt the P/J module from the main body of the C3-31. ?As frightening and untenable as this seems, it was a breeze. ?I think there were nine bolts holding the two modules together and once removed -- accessed through the shaper door -- the two were separated and it was then simply a matter of tilting the module up on one end and the motor could be accessed.
Fortunately, the problem on my machine was in the connection box on the motor and once it was opened, the smell alone indicated a major mischief had occurred with the wires being fried in the connector block within which was partially melted and several of the wires welded together. The fix was achieved by simply replacing the connector block with a new one, reinserting the freshened wires and firing it up. ?Happy days!
Reconnecting the P/J module to the main body was a cinch and took all of about 30 mins.
Back to normal now but with the nagging, unanswered question -- what caused it to misbehave in the first place?
Incidentally, my local Felder man told me he doubted there was anew motor available in Australia and one would either need to be airfreighted from Austria or sent in a container (three months) or a possible more wallet friendly option would be to have the motor rewired. ?Fortunately, I did not need to go down that path.
Brian
|
Re: Altendorf, The inventor of the slider
Great video, thanks Wade for mentioning it.
The feature I liked most about the new Altendorf saws was the fence in the middle of the swing arm/table.? Lifting the Felder fence and repositioning it is something I like to avoid, but this idea seems pretty cool.? The drop down safety feature is great and although it should help lowering insurance premiums, just being able to get back to work in 10 seconds without any blood seems like a huge benefit.?
Cheers
David
|
Re: Altendorf, The inventor of the slider
I couldn't get a specific answer to that question, but an Elmo without it was $50-60k. It is a big ticket accessory at the?moment. I wonder if the? European market will require it on all new saws at some point? It seems like a great system, but my sliders with pneumatic clamps, riving knives and overarm guards are very safe machines. My hand is rarely anywhere near the blade unless I am changing it. I cannot justify one of these as a one man show.?
I have a Sawstop also, and find it to be better build quality than any of the cabinet saws it competes with.? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Bill Belanger
Mike
marty shultz
Jason Holtz