Hi Andy,
Yes, I eventually had a tech come out and perform a calibration to get the machine perfect.? Cop-out, yes, but I'm not mechanically inclined, and the 16" jointer is, even according to the tech himself, a bear to get right.
I'll try to recall the rough outline:
There are the four bolts which must be loosened (easiest way to see them is in David's post above, /g/felderownersgroup/message/119170 the 4 bolt heads that are closest to the green circles) but just barely.? Leave them hand-snugged or better.?
Then, you must remove the back cover to expose access to the set screws which do the micro-adjusting.? If you look at this post on page 1: /g/felderownersgroup/message/119192 under the text "Here's the back view of the infeed side hinge:" you'll see a small, silver screw at the bottom of the picture.?? There are a handful of those screws securing a panel which wraps around to the end of the machine, and there is also a single, small bolt, deep in the crevasse between the j/p and the cast iron saw/shaper table.? The inner surface of the bolt head applies pressure against the panel, the body of the bolt does not penetrate the panel.? I had to buy a 10" long ratcheting wrench to get down there, because no human arm ever could.? Don't remove that bolt, but just loosen it enough so you can lift the panel up, and, with the handful of small screws removed, then remove the panel itself.??
At that point you'll have access to the two set screws for micro-adjusting.? They are underneath the hinge itself, and push up, which is why I couldn't find them.? These are for the final 10-20 thou of adjustment only.?
I think the inboard set screw is for adjusting the table at the cutter head, and the outboard is for getting the entire table in alignment...but they are inter-dependent, so you'll develop a feel.? I'm not sure about this, it's a bit hazy.
Which set screw to adjust to achieve what result is something I don't entirely remember, but let me promise you this:? if you are not mechanically inclined you might well be better leaving it alone.? Just loosening the 4 large bolts too much, and doing nothing else, will cause a drastic change in the adjustment of the entire infeed table.? Even if God came down from Heaven and adjusted everything for you to perfection, and all you had to do was tighten everything back up, the simple act of tightening the bolts will destroy the delicate balance of adjustments keeping the table where you want it.? I'd never heard of "bolt creep" before, but now I'm amazed at what a difference it makes.? You have to snug everything up a bit at a time, one after the other, so they all come tight together.? Tightening one bolt even a bit too much while the others are behind in their state of tightness will destroy all your adjustments.? So the simple act of tightening all the bolts is a delicate dance which must be managed with care.
Also, the adjustments are all inter-dependent, so adjusting one thing also has a not-so-modest effect on the other adjustments you made.? And just to top it off, when you're done and set the jointer table back down, and use the lever to secure the table down, you'll also have an impact on your adjustments.?
Again, this is all from memory based on what the tech told me/showed me.? I spent an hour learning from him, then left him for another 2 1/2 hours to finish.? That's how long it took a pro to calibrate my jointer, and that's perhaps the best warning I can give.?
I think there's a reason why nobody has posted a YouTube video on how to calibrate a 16" Hammer jointer.?? It's because 1) nobody really knows except the pros ( I think some very talented people can figure it out as they go, but aren't great at explaining it) and 2) the resulting video would be hours long, and require amazing camera work.
