I’m intrigued to see you using (I assume so from the orientation in the photo) it on the table saw. ?When I bought my feeder for the C3-31 combi, I thought that I’d spec it enough to cover all three functions. ?I soon came to the conclusion that using it to rip down timber was, for me, a no-No as IMO ripping is THE one operation where you have to listen to what the wood is doing, observe if the two are starting to close up the kerf post-riving blade etc and so adjust the feedrate accordingly.
The thought of forcing the timber through using the feeder just did not appeal for those reasons.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 1 Jul 2022, at 23:20, PK < pk@...> wrote:
On my old Table saw - crude test.? We learned later that the mag strips need to be parallel to the arm (or we need larger magnets).
<20200825_172411.JPG><20200825_172407.JPG><20200825_172417.JPG><20200825_172424.JPG><20200825_172520.JPG><20200825_172556.JPG><20200825_172937.JPG><20200825_172940.JPG>
PK
|
Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
Many thanks to all and the very good advice.
The comment regarding them lasting a long time is spot on and I wish I’d realised this before rotating mine as my machine has had even less use ! ?
Getting rid of the resin takes forever - even with a suitable spray. ?Guess it depends on how resinous the wood is. ?
One of my inserts had broken and it was this that was causing the marked surface. ?Of course, I went ahead and ordered a new set before realising this.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Tom,
Thanks for sharing valuable advice. I would not have known this.
Steve On Jul 1, 2022, at 10:39 AM, tom@... wrote:
Hi Roger!?
The first question I would ask is: "When you rotated your inserts, did you fully remove them and clean all of the resin and dust off the tooling head and back side of the inserts?"?
Most of the videos from the different manufacturers show somebody backing off the screw just enough to rotate the cutter, rotating the cutter, then tightening again. It has been my experience that the cutters and tooling bod can accumulate dust and resins that prevent the inserts from seating properly, resulting in a less that desirable cut, or risking cracking the cutter because it wasn't seated properly. My process is to completely remove the cutter, clean it and the tool body with a tooth brush and Boeshield "Blade & Bit Cleaner", then reinstalling the cutter to the proper torque setting.?
Obviously, this is not a quick process, I'd suggest putting on a good podcast or audio book. I hope this is helpful, good luck!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: CF731 For sale Cambridge UK
Hello Neil, I’m ?a new member of the group. I sent you a private message but I’m not sure if it was sent.
?I’m based in the UK and just setting up a new shop so I am interested. The CF731 is probably too wide for me as the part of the shop where the machines will go is 6.8 x 3.3 m. ?The KF700 is top of my wish list as I have previously owned one and I like the versatility of the saw:spindle combination.?
Unfortunately I am in France on an extended walk in the alps. Luckily I have a good phone signal tonight even though I’m in a refuge at 1900m. I don’t plan to be home in the Uk until September so ?are you able to wait until then? I’m happy to sort out details remotely. I have a relative in Cambridge who could help.?
I’d appreciate more information about the KF700. Do you know if it feasible to convert the CF731 so it can be used as two separate machines? I’m a retired mechanical engineer so I could work out the details.?
Best regards,
Barrie Stott
|
|
|
File /Electrical/Implementing VFD in a Multi-Motor Machine.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
The following files and folders have been uploaded to
the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: imranindiana <imranindiana@...>
Description:
Suggested mechanization to implement VFD in a machine with multiple motors
|
Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
Tom,
Thanks for sharing valuable advice. I would not have known this.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 1, 2022, at 10:39 AM, tom@... wrote:
Hi Roger!?
The first question I would ask is: "When you rotated your inserts, did you fully remove them and clean all of the resin and dust off the tooling head and back side of the inserts?"?
Most of the videos from the different manufacturers show somebody backing off the screw just enough to rotate the cutter, rotating the cutter, then tightening again. It has been my experience that the cutters and tooling bod can accumulate dust and resins that prevent the inserts from seating properly, resulting in a less that desirable cut, or risking cracking the cutter because it wasn't seated properly. My process is to completely remove the cutter, clean it and the tool body with a tooth brush and Boeshield "Blade & Bit Cleaner", then reinstalling the cutter to the proper torque setting.?
Obviously, this is not a quick process, I'd suggest putting on a good podcast or audio book. I hope this is helpful, good luck!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: KF700 table extension for sale, How/where to list
Both of these are sold.
Thanks
Jack
|
Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
I don’t own a Felder jointer/planer, but I follow a similar process to Tom. The first time I did it on my 20” Byrd head, I felt like I got sold a bag of goods. Every bit of marketing material makes it seem like it takes 10 mins to rotate the insert and then you are done. It’s more like an hour to remove, clean, and properly torque 180-200 inserts. Complete PITA. Tersa knives on the other hand are about 45-60 seconds to swap.?
Other than cleaning the cutterhead body and inserts(I’m 99% sure this is your problem) my only advice on seating the inserts is to wiggle it into place. On my head, it very obviously settles/clicks into the correct position. Same for the screw settling perfectly into the countersink of the insert. If it’s off slightly then chances are the insert is skewed.?
The last thing I will say about inserts in general is they last a longggggg time before rotating. I was a dummy and rotated mine after the first year of use. Absolutely no change in surface quality. I then went 3ish years, and I think that is the correct cadence. For reference, that’s more like 5-6,000 bdft of 8/4 hardwood per edge.?
Patrick
On Fri, Jul 1, 2022 at 11:39 AM < tom@...> wrote: Hi Roger!?
The first question I would ask is: "When you rotated your inserts, did you fully remove them and clean all of the resin and dust off the tooling head and back side of the inserts?"?
Most of the videos from the different manufacturers show somebody backing off the screw just enough to rotate the cutter, rotating the cutter, then tightening again. It has been my experience that the cutters and tooling bod can accumulate dust and resins that prevent the inserts from seating properly, resulting in a less that desirable cut, or risking cracking the cutter because it wasn't seated properly. My process is to completely remove the cutter, clean it and the tool body with a tooth brush and Boeshield "Blade & Bit Cleaner", then reinstalling the cutter to the proper torque setting.?
Obviously, this is not a quick process, I'd suggest putting on a good podcast or audio book. I hope this is helpful, good luck!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Replacing Silent Power inserts
Hi Roger!?
The first question I would ask is: "When you rotated your inserts, did you fully remove them and clean all of the resin and dust off the tooling head and back side of the inserts?"?
Most of the videos from the different manufacturers show somebody backing off the screw just enough to rotate the cutter, rotating the cutter, then tightening again. It has been my experience that the cutters and tooling bod can accumulate dust and resins that prevent the inserts from seating properly, resulting in a less that desirable cut, or risking cracking the cutter because it wasn't seated properly. My process is to completely remove the cutter, clean it and the tool body with a tooth brush and Boeshield "Blade & Bit Cleaner", then reinstalling the cutter to the proper torque setting.?
Obviously, this is not a quick process, I'd suggest putting on a good podcast or audio book. I hope this is helpful, good luck!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Jay, what is the slider length on this saw?
Brad
|
Replacing Silent Power inserts
So I got my torque wrench. Removed, rotated, refitted, tightened.
Haven’t used it much but today planing a wide board and I notice that I’ve got some inserts slightly badly fitted…I faffed around trying to work out which ones they were and failed miserably. Then I noticed that one oif the inserts had bits missing and so I’ve bitten the bullet and bought a new set.
But what should I look out for when re-fitting so that they are all at the same height ? I thought I’d done OK…but clearly not.
TIA
Roger
|
Thanks PK whenever you get a chance. Magswitch told me they are coming out with 2 different bases this fall one mounts directly to the post base of small feeders and a larger one that will have a plate that they can be bolted too.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 30, 2022, at 11:52 AM, PK <pk@...> wrote:
?Mark,
I can send you some pics.? I use it with my Comatic DC40.? Could use larger magnets, but it does work.
PK??
|
Re: KF700 table extension for sale, How/where to list
|
Yes. I thought of that too while I was trying to get adjusted. I made sure the nuts on the backside were loose as well. It did not result in any additional movement for me. Great! That it worked for you.? When I go out there today, I am hoping to be able to move on to the in feed side. Not sure yet but hopeful.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 29, 2022, at 4:22 PM, Chad75 <shouldercords@...> wrote:
?I finally figured out my machine. The four bolts you loosen directly under the hinge have four corresponding nuts on the back of the machine. I loosened both the front and back on the infeed table of my machine. This causes the whole hinge to rock back and forth making the adjustment screws worthless. You might try lightly loosening the back nuts and it will give you more play in the hinge movement. A word of warning though, it could also cause your entire table to shift. My main problem was I had forgotten about the back nuts because you can still tighten the front bolts. After walking away from it for a day I finally figured out the problem and now have it dialed in. Maybe this can help you out.?
|
Mark,
I can send you some pics.? I use it with my Comatic DC40.? Could use larger magnets, but it does work.
PK??
|
I’ve not used Fusion since designing the cart last summer. I’m now designing a version of my he North bc Bennet School toolbox to house some of my hand tools and to allow limited transportability to Snowmass is the winter and for workshops at Anderson Ranch. I’ve been going through the Woodgrafter series on Fusion and it has fixed many issues I’ve had. I think I might be marginally competent now… Mike King NERA Economic Consulting +1 303 618-4915
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 29, 2022, at 5:36 PM, buck.ron@... wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Not to add fuel to the fire, but... I'm a long time (and pretty proficient) user of F360. In general I'm pretty happy.?Not happy with how all of the significant new features end up in added-cost add-ons. I use it for all of my woodworking, but initially for my CNC router. I am very much a believer in David's "no free lunch" position (my paraphrase), and signed up for a fixed-price for lifetime basic license years ago - b4 they trashed the free license functionality even. This morning AD sent out an email that the basic license price is increasing to $545/yr in August. Remains to be seen if they will continue to honor my fixed license price. For me, Autodesk has always been a very difficult company to trust. P.S. Fair is fair - AD has just sent notice they will continue to honor their "Legacy" customer pricing as long as the license remains paid.-rb
|
Re: Kitchen Cabinet Standards
Mark, you make a good distinction between “melamine” and high-pressure laminate (HPL). I believe the resin on the particle board is essentially that same as used in HPL, just much thinner and on a softer substrate.
I have used HPL on shelves in the past. It is very durable. It is my material of choice for work surfaces (not my kitchen - that is stone) as it is quiet, forgiving, and easy to replace when/if needed.
My kitchen drawers, however, are actually melamine on particle board. I understand that it has a reputation for being cheap, but these boxes are likely to last longer than I will. One sheet of melamine stood up as the right-side extension table on my Unisaw for 34 years, and I suspect the guy who bought that saw will continue to use it. That is a much more harsh environment than any drawers.
I’m not trying to talk anyone out of dovetailed solid wood drawers. I think most of the guys who post in this user group make some pretty high-end stuff, and they know their market. I am not one of those guys, but I believe melamine does not need to be trash, and there is a place for it.
Now if you talk about fake wood-grain flat-pack stuff from IKEA, yeah, that is bottom-tier stuff.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
|
|
|
Re: KF700 table extension for sale, How/where to list
What zip code are you shipping from? ?I have an account with awesome FedEx rates?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 29, 2022, at 3:22 PM, Jack via groups.io <hollisin@...> wrote:
?I am in Nashville Tn 37221
Price is 275.00 + 30.00 UPS ground as far as Minneapolis MN so far.
Thanks Jack?
|
Re: Kitchen Cabinet Standards
John, in your comparison of wood to melamine, do you mean melamine per se, or laminate more generally?
"Melamine" often refers to the very thin layer applied to particle board, and has a bad reputation in part because of the particle board, and in part because of the limited durability of very thin Melamine.? The combination is widely seen as "low quality" to be sure.
Laminates more generally are a different class, although many people conflate laminates with melamine, and/or conflate laminates with "cheap formica".
Good laminate on good ply drawers are much more durable and much more expensive than typical solid wood drawers however.? ??
|
Barrie Stott
PK
Jack
Tom Gensmer
Joe Jensen