I do not own a supercell, but from the feedback I am getting on my woodworking Facebook group, it is an incredible tool if you only use it for one machine at the time. Apparently, it sucks so much that you don¡¯t have to think about pipe size: the static pressure and CFM are high enough to suck everything.?
Note: all these comments were from hobbyist.? Envoy¨¦ de mon iPhone
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Le 27 d¨¦c. 2021 ¨¤ 18:26, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> a ¨¦crit?:
? Does anyone have experience to share with Oneida Supercell? I'm looking at an install setup with a small tool array for a new project in general.
Secondly, I'm trying to solve a pneumatic?sander dust collection problem in general for a project that doesn't have .... anything for dust collection other than open windows, area fans, and a broom at the end of the day. I'm not convinced a downdraft table alone will cut it besides being inflexible, I'm hoping maybe using the same Oneida Supercell with an area port nearby? the work or below might grab enough?airflow to keep the breathing zone clean among sporadic activities.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Colour Reference for Solid Green Paint 6/7 Series
Maybe an email to Felder directly would yield an answer? I know they supplied me with some touch up paint when I bought my machines in 2001, the bottom of my wheelchair scratches the paint off on the bottom of the machine about 4¡± off the floor. I don¡¯t think I still have it, and I doubt it had any numbers on it.
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Thanks Brian, I am going to have to get someone slightly less colour blind than me to take a look at that one but good to know its probably a RAL colour .
Pretty sure it¡¯s RAL 6011, same color as early Deckel machines. Here is a color chart, but different monitors will looks different.
?
Can anyone provide the correct colour reference for the solid green paint used for the 6 and 7 series machines?
I have a Bandsaw and a combination machine that I am refurbishing that both need some repainting to get them into best condition ready to sell.
Thanks for any information you can provide
Regards,
Paul
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Re: Digital Rip Fence mod on K500
I would get 1/8¡° thick, and probably start with a piece of 1¡±x1¡± from Home Depot or Lowes, they sell it there. You can always cut it down on the length of the legs on the bandsaw if it¡¯s too big. You will have to experiment a bit to see what works, I suspect they won¡¯t all the the same as the distance of how far out that Felder mounts the bar is probably somewhat variable.
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On Dec 27, 2021, at 2:10 PM, Bill James via < xxrb2010@...> wrote:
Hi,
I got a Fiama DRO to mod my K500 rip fence. To attach the FIAMA F7, I plan to add a 90 degree aluminum bracket on the inside of the rip fence housing protruding toward the rip fence scale on the saw. I plan to cut a small offset on this bracket in oder to fit it inside the rip fence housing. See picture below with the bracket in white.
<Screen Shot 2021-12-27 at 4.09.42 PM.png>
However, I wonder which thickness I should go with. I believe 1/2 inch is what I am looking for the width based on how close the housing is from the saw scale, but the thickness I have no idea. I am looking at those aluminum brackets:
Any feedback would be nice,
Thanks,
Bill
<Screen Shot 2021-12-27 at 4.03.00 PM.png><Screen Shot 2021-12-27 at 4.05.21 PM.png>
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Does anyone have experience to share with Oneida Supercell? I'm looking at an install setup with a small tool array for a new project in general.
Secondly, I'm trying to solve a pneumatic?sander dust collection problem in general for a project that doesn't have .... anything for dust collection other than open windows, area fans, and a broom at the end of the day. I'm not convinced a downdraft table alone will cut it besides being inflexible, I'm hoping maybe using the same Oneida Supercell with an area port nearby? the work or below might grab enough?airflow to keep the breathing zone clean among sporadic activities.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Colour Reference for Solid Green Paint 6/7 Series
Thanks Brian,
I am going to have to get someone slightly less colour blind than me to take a look at that one but good to know its probably a RAL colour .
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Pretty sure it¡¯s RAL 6011, same color as early Deckel machines. Here is a color chart, but different monitors will looks different.
?
Can anyone provide the correct colour reference for the solid green paint used for the 6 and 7 series machines?
I have a Bandsaw and a combination machine that I am refurbishing that both need some repainting to get them into best condition ready to sell.
Thanks for any information you can provide
Regards,
Paul
|
Re: Colour Reference for Solid Green Paint 6/7 Series
Pretty sure it¡¯s RAL 6011, same color as early Deckel machines. Here is a color chart, but different monitors will looks different.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Can anyone provide the correct colour reference for the solid green paint used for the 6 and 7 series machines?
I have a Bandsaw and a combination machine that I am refurbishing that both need some repainting to get them into best condition ready to sell.
Thanks for any information you can provide
Regards,
Paul
|
Colour Reference for Solid Green Paint 6/7 Series
Can anyone provide the correct colour reference for the solid green paint used for the 6 and 7 series machines?
I have a Bandsaw and a combination machine that I am refurbishing that both need some repainting to get them into best condition ready to sell.
Thanks for any information you can provide
Regards,
Paul
|
Digital Rip Fence mod on K500
Hi, I got a Fiama DRO to mod my K500 rip fence. To attach the FIAMA F7, I plan to add a 90 degree aluminum bracket on the inside of the rip fence housing protruding toward the rip fence scale on the saw. I plan to cut a small offset on this bracket in oder to fit it inside the rip fence housing. See picture below with the bracket in white.  However, I wonder which thickness I should go with. I believe 1/2 inch is what I am looking for the width based on how close the housing is from the saw scale, but the thickness I have no idea. I am looking at those aluminum brackets: Any feedback would be nice, Thanks, Bill
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Hi John, congrats on the new saw! I just took delivery of a K700S this fall (it¡¯s set up but not running yet). Once I figured out the crate dimensions I decided to rent a 18¡¯ flat bed trailer as my trailer (16¡¯) wouldn¡¯t accommodate handling the crate with a pallet jack. The saw crate is 8¡¯ long and would take a big lift with long forks to handle long ways. I thought I would be able to winch it down a constructed ramp to get it off the trailer but soon came to the realization that was just way too sketchy. Rented a forklift the next morning ($250 well spent) and it took less than 5 minutes to safely get it in the garage. The pic shows the bill of lading with all the crate dimensions. Note the saw crate weighs 1350# and the slider crate is 350#. Both move easily with a pallet jack on smooth ground as does the saw when off the crate. Depending on the sloped path you have to negotiate and the vehicle used I might give consideration to backing down the path with the big crate.?
As suggested a rigger might be your best option and not much more than money than the equipment you're planning on renting.
Hope this helps.
Steve Krasovich
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Great picture!
I was thinking the same thing - renting a skid-steer. I just wanted to know weights and dimensions to check tipping before I rented it. I would rather transport it in the crate, too.
The user manual seems to show the pallet being picked from one end.
I might still have to remove a fence post, depending on the size of the skid-steer.
Thanks for the input.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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Hi John, I received my K700S/A3-41 in summer this year and spent a lot of time researching this message board to find out what I needed. I used a skid steer - track loader to go out to the road about 900', get the machines off the truck and motor back to the shop. The track loader is very maneuverable and well balanced - counter balanced I am sure you can use this to get your machine from truck to building or into building. Since it uses tracks it won't sink like a wheeled unit.? I also used the loader to lift the machine up and then pull away the crate, lower back down then I used a narrow fork pallet jack made by Crown to easily move this around the shop.? As for weight of the base unit I think 1000# maybe wee bit more with full overarm dust collector. You will also get the rail in a 12' box crate.
I used the same loader for my joiner - planer, I didn't have to sweat getting the machine off the pallet using a ramp and worry about dumping it. Renting a loader in my area is $250 per day.
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Merry Christmas to you too Glen.?
I love the snow ¡when it¡¯s deep enough for skiing and sledding with the kids ?
--
Regards,
Mikkel
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Just wanted to wish you all a Merry Christmas or Happy Holidays Or what ever is political correct these days.
And thank you Brian for the rip stop.?
To damn cold to work in the shop right now and I hate snow , but i am looking forward to the next storm.
Glen
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Scott,
Here is a partial answer to the question you posed to Marty.
When working on my B3 (which I assume has a cast iron portion of similar size to the one on the saw/spindle side of the combo) I can use the saw for workpieces slightly wider than 11 inches / 280mm with the feeder bracket in place.
I hope this helps.
J.
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Hi John!?
Congrats on your soon-to-be K700S. I received a new KF700S January 2021, here are some of my experiences/notes:
-- The machine is rather heavy, my memory is that the machine pallet weighed in at around 1,900 lbs. Granted, this was for a "KF" so I imagine a "K" machine would be somewhat lighter, but I can't imagine by much
-- The machine pallet for a "S" machine is pretty large, my memory is that the pallet was close to 8' long and 4' or 5' wide
-- Between the large pallet and heavy weight, lift gate service was not an option. What we ended up coordinating was a delivery via flatbed with a all-terrain piggy back forklift, like what you see on lumber trucks
-- The pallet was "side-load" only, so unless you rig up a sub-pallet, you'll likely need a wider opening, or you'll need to lift the pallet taller than the fence.?
-- Once you get the base off the pallet, you can absolutely move with a narrow pallet jack
-- Moving across your lawn with anything other than an all terrain forklift or some kind of tele handler is going to be dicey, even if the ground is frozen
Between a relatively steep slope and trying to get it through your gate opening, I'd suggest you might be money (and sanity) ahead by looking into hiring a local rigging company to help take care of the final 100'. It stings, but if would be a real bummer to struggle getting the machine under cover in a rain storm or a blizzard. They are generally not inexpensive, but I suspect they'd be well worth it.?
Best of luck, looking forward to hearing what solution(s) you come up with.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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I have a new saw coming soon - K700S. I am trying to figure out how to move it from the street to my shop.
If I understand correctly it comes in two crates, one for the base and one for the sliding table. Is it reasonable to pick up the base from one end of the crate with a fork lift? I have to move the machine across 15 feet of lawn, then down a 4:1 paved slope and through a 4¡¯-8¡± gate. If I cannot pick it from one end I will have to pull out a couple of fence posts, which I would rather not do.
What does the base unit weigh?
Once I get the base off the pallet, can I move it with a narrow pallet jack?
Thanks for any advice or input!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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Hi Scott,
I haven't tried to keep the power feeder upright to see how much it would get in the way.? I installed the lift assist which makes it easy to raise and lower the feeder.? I don't use the power feeder much because I also have an old unisaw with a power feeder that I use for ripping.? The power feeder doesn't impact the jointer/planer.? Brian uses the power feeder to joint his stock but I haven't tried that yet.? I'm not at the same location as my Felder so I can't take a proper pic of it but the attached pic may show the power feeder better.
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Marty, are you able to leave your power feeder in the upright position for all or most of you work on your combo, including sawing and the jointer/planer? ?Is it possible to raise the jointer tables up with the PF as shown in the photo?
Scott
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¡°You might even find that the extended crosscut fence might just clear the top of the AD741¡±
Working height of the machines is critical to be aware of when the shop space is tight. My plan included this info got all machines and large surfaces like assembly tables etc. Be aware that, if needed, a machine can easily be elevated by a small amount by leveling feet so that long/wide material can go on top of an adjacent machine.
It is a fun exercise.
Imran
On Dec 25, 2021, at 2:09 AM, michael.kit.ooi@... wrote:
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Hey Marcus,
The working envelope of a slider, jointer and planer is quite long.? Consider placing your saw/jointer/planer about a 1.5 meters in front of the large door so you can utilize the "free" outdoor space as your infeed or outfeed working envelope.? I've used this type of layout in three shops and it has worked well for me.? I'm still able to cut lengths up to about 2 meters with the door closed.? Only a small percentage of my shop time is used to breakdown large pieces so I don't need to have the door open very long if I don't want to.? I see you're from the UK.? You may want to put an awning over your door to keep the rain out. Where are you located in the UK?
Cheers,
Marty
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Tom Gensmer
marty shultz
imran
