Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
Please see responses below¡ On Aug 2, 2021, at 5:42 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:
?
Mark, thanks for the detailed response!
I have a couple of questions: In #11 you mention using the 22" end of a 96" piece to reference the entire length against the crosscut fence. I have a hard time thinking I'm going to maintain <1mm error at the infeed end using that approach. Any variation at all against the crosscut fence would yield an error at the other end. Do I understand correctly that is that you are recommending? I think the solution here is the parallel rip guide extension to the table, but that's going to take a while to order and is an expensive option.
Yes, you understand correctly. There might be other methods but this is the way I was taught and have cut at least a 1000 full sheets if not more of material in my lifetime, it should stay put even without clamps. in my business and the three shops i worked I never saw one clamp or parallel guide in a shop and one of those shops had 4 sliders, I didn¡¯t even know parallel guides existed until a few years ago when I bought my first Felder saw.
- There is nothing wrong with using a parallel guide or clamping if that works for you, i have spent a lot of time behind a slider and am very comfortable with it?
And I see in #13 and #14 you also recommend changing references from the rip fence as bump stop to cross cut stop. Assuming both are calibrated that shouldn't be an issue but it seems odd to have to change references while performing repetitive operations. That's an opportunity for error to creep in.
This is standard workflow on a slider as I know and have seen in professional shops. Remember the goal (imho) is to use the left side as much as possible and not reach over the blade which is why the last piece is referenced off the xcut fence stop otherwise would need to change the fence extrusion to the forward position then use the saw like a cabinet saw.?
Yes, your saw has to be calibrated and the xcut stops must agree with the rip fence stop, add in the parallel stop and that will need to agree as well
Imran, thanks for the warning about clamping and using the rip fence. I noticed that the sheet walked away from the rip fence by about a mm as it traveled. The blade seemed ok with it. I'll make sure not to do that in the future. I guess I will try to get the U arm installed with the table in place. However, it may very well be easier to take the table off. Now that I have the leveling nuts set it shouldn't be too hard to put it back in the right position. Or I'll practice using my third arm with the two wrists and extra flexible fingers. I am greatly amused that the Felder manual suggests having "two reliable friends" assist in the process. Thanks for the videos, Bruce. I will see how much I can absorb from them. On Mon, Aug 2, 2021 at 07:15 AM, Mark Kessler wrote:
11. Pull outrigger back, rotate piece right so the 22¡±+ is against xcut, flip the flipstop over ,the one you set to 22¡± earlier.
12. Push piece against the stop and make a rip.
13. Now take your 22¡± wide strip with the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut and slide over and bump against you rip fence set at 22¡± and make a cut then repeat 2 times
14. The last piece left on the outrigger gets cut by using the flip stop on the xfence.
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Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
Mark, thanks for the detailed response!
I have a couple of questions: In #11 you mention using the 22" end of a 96" piece to reference the entire length against the crosscut fence. I have a hard time thinking I'm going to maintain <1mm error at the infeed end using that approach. Any variation at all against the crosscut fence would yield an error at the other end. Do I understand correctly that is that you are recommending? I think the solution here is the parallel rip guide extension to the table, but that's going to take a while to order and is an expensive option.
And I see in #13 and #14 you also recommend changing references from the rip fence as bump stop to cross cut stop. Assuming both are calibrated that shouldn't be an issue but it seems odd to have to change references while performing repetitive operations. That's an opportunity for error to creep in.
Imran, thanks for the warning about clamping and using the rip fence. I noticed that the sheet walked away from the rip fence by about a mm as it traveled. The blade seemed ok with it. I'll make sure not to do that in the future.
I guess I will try to get the U arm installed with the table in place. However, it may very well be easier to take the table off. Now that I have the leveling nuts set it shouldn't be too hard to put it back in the right position. Or I'll practice using my third arm with the two wrists and extra flexible fingers. I am greatly amused that the Felder manual suggests having "two reliable friends" assist in the process.
Thanks for the videos, Bruce. I will see how much I can absorb from them.
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On Mon, Aug 2, 2021 at 07:15 AM, Mark Kessler wrote:
11. Pull outrigger back, rotate piece right so the 22¡±+ is against xcut, flip the flipstop over ,the one you set to 22¡± earlier.
12. Push piece against the stop and make a rip.
13. Now take your 22¡± wide strip with the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut and slide over and bump against you rip fence set at 22¡± and make a cut then repeat 2 times
14. The last piece left on the outrigger gets cut by using the flip stop on the xfence.
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Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
? Looks like I mixed up what i was thinking and what I wrote for #3 on the scoring was backwards, corrections in Red¡ thanks Mike Bemis for the heads up¡
Reads - ¡° then add the Shims (they are marked, or measure them) to be at or just slightly under?OVER (more than likely it will fall just under?OVER) main blade width (the scoring blade width should never be wider?NARROWER than the main blade)¡±
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On Aug 2, 2021, at 8:15 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
then add the Shims (they are marked, or measure them) to be at or just slightly under (more than likely it will fall just under) main blade width (the scoring blade width should never be wider than the main blade).
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Looks like some older models did not come with a Main switch. Thanks for your reply and stay tuned!
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Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
The difference with the KF is that you have to twist your hands around the shaper?assembly inside the cabinet, but essentially same procedure Mark Kessler and Imran already described that you will keep asking "this can't be right?" the whole?time you are doing it right. LOL. Pulling off the black rectangular plastic shaper assembly cover (T10 or T20 ?) and having wrenches with sticky tape may help. something to hold the weight on the outside while fiddling with the fasteners on the inside is imperative. But it sounds like you are very close to being up and running, Congrats Brandon.
On Mon, Aug 2, 2021 at 8:10 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brandon,
¡°?the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok.¡±
Regarding your comment in bold italics: Since you do not mention the outrigger or referencing to the xcut fence, it appears you used the rip fence as reference. If so, do not clamp material to the sliding table when using rip fence - I assume that is what you clamped you, as I can¡¯t think of an alternative.
If my assumption is correct, then be aware that while using rip fence, slider can be used for support but not for guiding the material. If properly adjusted the trajectories of the rip fence and the slider are diverging. From infeed side the trajectory is a narrow ¡°V¡±.
Imran
the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
Brandon,
¡°?the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok.¡±
Regarding your comment in bold italics: Since you do not mention the outrigger or referencing to the xcut fence, it appears you used the rip fence as reference. If so, do not clamp material to the sliding table when using rip fence - I assume that is what you clamped you, as I can¡¯t think of an alternative.
If my assumption is correct, then be aware that while using rip fence, slider can be used for support but not for guiding the material. If properly adjusted the trajectories of the rip fence and the slider are diverging. From infeed side the trajectory is a narrow ¡°V¡±.
Imran
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On Aug 1, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote: the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok.
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Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
Imran, thanks for the clarification- i missed that his was a KF, so what I described is for the saw only and appears to be different?
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On Aug 2, 2021, at 8:30 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Mark,
On overhead saw guard, I believe you are describing how it is on saw only machine. Correct? For saw only machine, the bottom horizontal tube is attached to the rear of the chassis with bolts from inside of the saw cabinet.
For Brandon¡¯s KF it is like this:
I have not dealt with this setup to be able to answer the question.
Imran
On Aug 2, 2021, at 8:15 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Here are a few things¡
1. ¡°do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm" - You shouldn¡¯t have to, I was able to get it installed with the ext table. It was a pain, can¡¯t remember the exact steps but I did use tape to hold the bolts in place while installed the nuts, you have to install the nuts from inside the cabinet. It¡¯s a heavy sucker i used something to hold it in position height wise and clamped it to the saw so it wouldn¡¯t fall.
2. Yes you need 12¡± calipers of you want to adjust to that level of accuracy, I have some cheapo¡¯s¡
3. You need to use calipers to set the width of the scoring blade with the Shims, new blade should be easy- the scoring blade should have the width on the blade or measure when together without shims, then add the Shims (they are marked, or measure them) to be at or just slightly under (more than likely it will fall just under) main blade width (the scoring blade width should never be wider than the main blade). Then of course you need adjust right and left once installed on machine by taking test cuts.?
4. Your ripping of the 580mm¡ there are a lot of techniques/ways to skin the cat so I won¡¯t really get into to that but¡ Are you saying you ripped from a full width sheet, 4¡¯x8¡¯? If so totally doable without rip fence, i typically rip an 8¡¯ foot sheet down to maybe 18¡± wide before i would pull out the parallel guide. Also the xcut fence would be in the forward position away from the operator, you would be pushing the material into the fence if that makes sense.
Ok, so I wasn¡¯t going to go into technique but¡. I think I posted a video at one point on this so do some searches and yes alot of this has been covered¡
So this is one way, anyone please feel to correct as you see fit (as I am sure you will ?)
If you needed 8 - 22¡±x22¡± pieces from a 4¡¯x8¡¯¡.
1. Set rip fence to 22¡±, pull back extrusion past blade. 2. Set xcut stop to 22¡± 3. Put 8¡¯ side of 4x8 against xcut fence 4. Make a xcut to get rid of factory edge on 4¡¯ side - 1/2¡± or under? 5. Rotate sheet right and rip off the factory edge on the 8¡¯ edge 6. Move sheet a little to the left and pull back carriage with sheet still on it back past the blade 7. Push the panel with the 8¡¯ just cut edge against the rip fence you set to 22¡± 8. Make the cut, then move the cut piece out of the way (remembering the 4¡¯ end that was not cut) leave the piece on the left on the outrigger? 9. Pull the outrigger back, rotate the piece on the outrigger right which will put the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut fence 10. Cut the factory edge off 11. Pull outrigger back, rotate piece right so the 22¡±+ is against xcut, flip the flipstop over ,the one you set to 22¡± earlier. 12. Push piece against the stop and make a rip. 13. Now take your 22¡± wide strip with the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut and slide over and bump against you rip fence set at 22¡± and make a cut then repeat 2 times 14. The last piece left on the outrigger gets cut by using the flip stop on the xfence. 15. Grab the first 22¡± piece you ripped and repeat #13 and #14
?? You now have 8 perfectly square 22¡± x 22¡± pieces assuming your saw is setup correct, i would not be blowing through a 4x8 until you get everything calibrated¡ On Aug 1, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:
?So, today was a big day for me. I finally got my "new" KF700SP set up in a usable position. I still need to rearrange some things before I can put it in the final position. I installed the main dust collection port to my RL160 via 6" Nordfab piping. I have not installed the overhead guard. That's the first question: do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm"? I don't see how to access the bolting with the table in the way.
Next, I calibrated the rip and cross cut DROs. Looks like I need to buy a longer caliper because the closest I could get the crosscut stop is about 8". I got it as close as I could with a tape.
I installed the Tenryu 50T blade to use while I'm having the Felder blade sharpened. Is there a simple way to calibrate the width of the scoring blade? I checked it against the side of the blade with a straight edge but the width wasn't correct, so I ended up just lowering it out of the way.
I cut up my first few full sheets into some cabinet parts. I encountered a couple of issues and figured I'd see what I'm doing wrong. I ripped the first sheet lengthwise to 580mm. Without a left side parallel rip guide and table support, the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok. Then I made a second pass. On that one, cutting to the right of the blade, I had very little material left on the table and I resorted to roller stands on both the infeed and outfeed sides. That felt like I was doing something wrong.
So, if you don't have the parallel rip guide, how do you cut to the left of the blade? Or do you really have to use the rip fence and roller tables and cut to the right of the blade?
Then something similar occurred when I was cross cutting the panels. I used the rip fence as a bump stop and cut my piece to the right of the blade. Then once I'd shortened it by about half I switched to the flip stop on the cross cut fence and cut my piece to the left of the blade. This works but seems very awkward. What's the best way to do this without changing the reference?
So, as a newcomer to this overall process, what's the basic work flow supposed to look like? How do you know what to use as your reference? Assuming not everyone buys the parallel rip guide, how do you align your piece to keep it parallel (the flip stop on the outfeed end provides one reference)? Do most people cut to the right of the blade in this situation?
I apologize if this has been covered previously, but it is a pretty generic question and I couldn't find the right combination of search terms to give me relevant information.
Thanks,
Brandon
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Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
Mark,
On overhead saw guard, I believe you are describing how it is on saw only machine. Correct? For saw only machine, the bottom horizontal tube is attached to the rear of the chassis with bolts from inside of the saw cabinet.
For Brandon¡¯s KF it is like this:
I have not dealt with this setup to be able to answer the question.
Imran
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Show quoted text
On Aug 2, 2021, at 8:15 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Here are a few things¡
1. ¡°do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm" - You shouldn¡¯t have to, I was able to get it installed with the ext table. It was a pain, can¡¯t remember the exact steps but I did use tape to hold the bolts in place while installed the nuts, you have to install the nuts from inside the cabinet. It¡¯s a heavy sucker i used something to hold it in position height wise and clamped it to the saw so it wouldn¡¯t fall.
2. Yes you need 12¡± calipers of you want to adjust to that level of accuracy, I have some cheapo¡¯s¡
3. You need to use calipers to set the width of the scoring blade with the Shims, new blade should be easy- the scoring blade should have the width on the blade or measure when together without shims, then add the Shims (they are marked, or measure them) to be at or just slightly under (more than likely it will fall just under) main blade width (the scoring blade width should never be wider than the main blade). Then of course you need adjust right and left once installed on machine by taking test cuts.?
4. Your ripping of the 580mm¡ there are a lot of techniques/ways to skin the cat so I won¡¯t really get into to that but¡ Are you saying you ripped from a full width sheet, 4¡¯x8¡¯? If so totally doable without rip fence, i typically rip an 8¡¯ foot sheet down to maybe 18¡± wide before i would pull out the parallel guide. Also the xcut fence would be in the forward position away from the operator, you would be pushing the material into the fence if that makes sense.
Ok, so I wasn¡¯t going to go into technique but¡. I think I posted a video at one point on this so do some searches and yes alot of this has been covered¡
So this is one way, anyone please feel to correct as you see fit (as I am sure you will ?)
If you needed 8 - 22¡±x22¡± pieces from a 4¡¯x8¡¯¡.
1. Set rip fence to 22¡±, pull back extrusion past blade. 2. Set xcut stop to 22¡± 3. Put 8¡¯ side of 4x8 against xcut fence 4. Make a xcut to get rid of factory edge on 4¡¯ side - 1/2¡± or under? 5. Rotate sheet right and rip off the factory edge on the 8¡¯ edge 6. Move sheet a little to the left and pull back carriage with sheet still on it back past the blade 7. Push the panel with the 8¡¯ just cut edge against the rip fence you set to 22¡± 8. Make the cut, then move the cut piece out of the way (remembering the 4¡¯ end that was not cut) leave the piece on the left on the outrigger? 9. Pull the outrigger back, rotate the piece on the outrigger right which will put the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut fence 10. Cut the factory edge off 11. Pull outrigger back, rotate piece right so the 22¡±+ is against xcut, flip the flipstop over ,the one you set to 22¡± earlier. 12. Push piece against the stop and make a rip. 13. Now take your 22¡± wide strip with the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut and slide over and bump against you rip fence set at 22¡± and make a cut then repeat 2 times 14. The last piece left on the outrigger gets cut by using the flip stop on the xfence. 15. Grab the first 22¡± piece you ripped and repeat #13 and #14
?? You now have 8 perfectly square 22¡± x 22¡± pieces assuming your saw is setup correct, i would not be blowing through a 4x8 until you get everything calibrated¡ On Aug 1, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:
?So, today was a big day for me. I finally got my "new" KF700SP set up in a usable position. I still need to rearrange some things before I can put it in the final position. I installed the main dust collection port to my RL160 via 6" Nordfab piping. I have not installed the overhead guard. That's the first question: do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm"? I don't see how to access the bolting with the table in the way.
Next, I calibrated the rip and cross cut DROs. Looks like I need to buy a longer caliper because the closest I could get the crosscut stop is about 8". I got it as close as I could with a tape.
I installed the Tenryu 50T blade to use while I'm having the Felder blade sharpened. Is there a simple way to calibrate the width of the scoring blade? I checked it against the side of the blade with a straight edge but the width wasn't correct, so I ended up just lowering it out of the way.
I cut up my first few full sheets into some cabinet parts. I encountered a couple of issues and figured I'd see what I'm doing wrong. I ripped the first sheet lengthwise to 580mm. Without a left side parallel rip guide and table support, the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok. Then I made a second pass. On that one, cutting to the right of the blade, I had very little material left on the table and I resorted to roller stands on both the infeed and outfeed sides. That felt like I was doing something wrong.
So, if you don't have the parallel rip guide, how do you cut to the left of the blade? Or do you really have to use the rip fence and roller tables and cut to the right of the blade?
Then something similar occurred when I was cross cutting the panels. I used the rip fence as a bump stop and cut my piece to the right of the blade. Then once I'd shortened it by about half I switched to the flip stop on the cross cut fence and cut my piece to the left of the blade. This works but seems very awkward. What's the best way to do this without changing the reference?
So, as a newcomer to this overall process, what's the basic work flow supposed to look like? How do you know what to use as your reference? Assuming not everyone buys the parallel rip guide, how do you align your piece to keep it parallel (the flip stop on the outfeed end provides one reference)? Do most people cut to the right of the blade in this situation?
I apologize if this has been covered previously, but it is a pretty generic question and I couldn't find the right combination of search terms to give me relevant information.
Thanks,
Brandon
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Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
Here's some YouTube links that helped me get started getting the most out of my sliding table saw:
Good luck! Bruce Gordon
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Re: Sliding table saw operation: best practices
Here are a few things¡
1. ¡°do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm" - You shouldn¡¯t have to, I was able to get it installed with the ext table. It was a pain, can¡¯t remember the exact steps but I did use tape to hold the bolts in place while installed the nuts, you have to install the nuts from inside the cabinet. It¡¯s a heavy sucker i used something to hold it in position height wise and clamped it to the saw so it wouldn¡¯t fall.
2. Yes you need 12¡± calipers of you want to adjust to that level of accuracy, I have some cheapo¡¯s¡
3. You need to use calipers to set the width of the scoring blade with the Shims, new blade should be easy- the scoring blade should have the width on the blade or measure when together without shims, then add the Shims (they are marked, or measure them) to be at or just slightly under (more than likely it will fall just under) main blade width (the scoring blade width should never be wider than the main blade). Then of course you need adjust right and left once installed on machine by taking test cuts.?
4. Your ripping of the 580mm¡ there are a lot of techniques/ways to skin the cat so I won¡¯t really get into to that but¡ Are you saying you ripped from a full width sheet, 4¡¯x8¡¯? If so totally doable without rip fence, i typically rip an 8¡¯ foot sheet down to maybe 18¡± wide before i would pull out the parallel guide. Also the xcut fence would be in the forward position away from the operator, you would be pushing the material into the fence if that makes sense.
Ok, so I wasn¡¯t going to go into technique but¡. I think I posted a video at one point on this so do some searches and yes alot of this has been covered¡
So this is one way, anyone please feel to correct as you see fit (as I am sure you will ?)
If you needed 8 - 22¡±x22¡± pieces from a 4¡¯x8¡¯¡.
1. Set rip fence to 22¡±, pull back extrusion past blade. 2. Set xcut stop to 22¡± 3. Put 8¡¯ side of 4x8 against xcut fence 4. Make a xcut to get rid of factory edge on 4¡¯ side - 1/2¡± or under? 5. Rotate sheet right and rip off the factory edge on the 8¡¯ edge 6. Move sheet a little to the left and pull back carriage with sheet still on it back past the blade 7. Push the panel with the 8¡¯ just cut edge against the rip fence you set to 22¡± 8. Make the cut, then move the cut piece out of the way (remembering the 4¡¯ end that was not cut) leave the piece on the left on the outrigger? 9. Pull the outrigger back, rotate the piece on the outrigger right which will put the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut fence 10. Cut the factory edge off 11. Pull outrigger back, rotate piece right so the 22¡±+ is against xcut, flip the flipstop over ,the one you set to 22¡± earlier. 12. Push piece against the stop and make a rip. 13. Now take your 22¡± wide strip with the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut and slide over and bump against you rip fence set at 22¡± and make a cut then repeat 2 times 14. The last piece left on the outrigger gets cut by using the flip stop on the xfence. 15. Grab the first 22¡± piece you ripped and repeat #13 and #14
?? You now have 8 perfectly square 22¡± x 22¡± pieces assuming your saw is setup correct, i would not be blowing through a 4x8 until you get everything calibrated¡
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On Aug 1, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:
?So, today was a big day for me. I finally got my "new" KF700SP set up in a usable position. I still need to rearrange some things before I can put it in the final position. I installed the main dust collection port to my RL160 via 6" Nordfab piping. I have not installed the overhead guard. That's the first question: do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm"? I don't see how to access the bolting with the table in the way.
Next, I calibrated the rip and cross cut DROs. Looks like I need to buy a longer caliper because the closest I could get the crosscut stop is about 8". I got it as close as I could with a tape.
I installed the Tenryu 50T blade to use while I'm having the Felder blade sharpened. Is there a simple way to calibrate the width of the scoring blade? I checked it against the side of the blade with a straight edge but the width wasn't correct, so I ended up just lowering it out of the way.
I cut up my first few full sheets into some cabinet parts. I encountered a couple of issues and figured I'd see what I'm doing wrong. I ripped the first sheet lengthwise to 580mm. Without a left side parallel rip guide and table support, the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok. Then I made a second pass. On that one, cutting to the right of the blade, I had very little material left on the table and I resorted to roller stands on both the infeed and outfeed sides. That felt like I was doing something wrong.
So, if you don't have the parallel rip guide, how do you cut to the left of the blade? Or do you really have to use the rip fence and roller tables and cut to the right of the blade?
Then something similar occurred when I was cross cutting the panels. I used the rip fence as a bump stop and cut my piece to the right of the blade. Then once I'd shortened it by about half I switched to the flip stop on the cross cut fence and cut my piece to the left of the blade. This works but seems very awkward. What's the best way to do this without changing the reference?
So, as a newcomer to this overall process, what's the basic work flow supposed to look like? How do you know what to use as your reference? Assuming not everyone buys the parallel rip guide, how do you align your piece to keep it parallel (the flip stop on the outfeed end provides one reference)? Do most people cut to the right of the blade in this situation?
I apologize if this has been covered previously, but it is a pretty generic question and I couldn't find the right combination of search terms to give me relevant information.
Thanks,
Brandon
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Sliding table saw operation: best practices
So, today was a big day for me. I finally got my "new" KF700SP set up in a usable position. I still need to rearrange some things before I can put it in the final position. I installed the main dust collection port to my RL160 via 6" Nordfab piping. I have not installed the overhead guard. That's the first question: do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm"? I don't see how to access the bolting with the table in the way.
Next, I calibrated the rip and cross cut DROs. Looks like I need to buy a longer caliper because the closest I could get the crosscut stop is about 8". I got it as close as I could with a tape.
I installed the Tenryu 50T blade to use while I'm having the Felder blade sharpened. Is there a simple way to calibrate the width of the scoring blade? I checked it against the side of the blade with a straight edge but the width wasn't correct, so I ended up just lowering it out of the way.
I cut up my first few full sheets into some cabinet parts. I encountered a couple of issues and figured I'd see what I'm doing wrong. I ripped the first sheet lengthwise to 580mm. Without a left side parallel rip guide and table support, the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok. Then I made a second pass. On that one, cutting to the right of the blade, I had very little material left on the table and I resorted to roller stands on both the infeed and outfeed sides. That felt like I was doing something wrong.
So, if you don't have the parallel rip guide, how do you cut to the left of the blade? Or do you really have to use the rip fence and roller tables and cut to the right of the blade?
Then something similar occurred when I was cross cutting the panels. I used the rip fence as a bump stop and cut my piece to the right of the blade. Then once I'd shortened it by about half I switched to the flip stop on the cross cut fence and cut my piece to the left of the blade. This works but seems very awkward. What's the best way to do this without changing the reference?
So, as a newcomer to this overall process, what's the basic work flow supposed to look like? How do you know what to use as your reference? Assuming not everyone buys the parallel rip guide, how do you align your piece to keep it parallel (the flip stop on the outfeed end provides one reference)? Do most people cut to the right of the blade in this situation?
I apologize if this has been covered previously, but it is a pretty generic question and I couldn't find the right combination of search terms to give me relevant information.
Thanks,
Brandon
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?I am surprised that there is no main power switch. Take another look around the machine and also look for a missing switch, in case it has been removed.
There are micro switches on my JP (different model) for lifted tables and dust hood. If these are bad or miss adjusted that would result in no start. Also check the emergency stop to be sure it is not stuck.
Imran
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On Aug 1, 2021, at 8:45 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? I¡¯m not real familiar with the AD531, but from what pictures I can find, power comes in low on the rear, left corner of the machine. There is a rotary switch to turn the main power on down low directly under the outfeed table. The other possible issue is the e-stop button, they have to be turned so they pop out once they have been hit, that will stop any power from being applied.
Pictures would help get you better answers.
Bought an older AD 531 (2006) that had been stored for a long time in a storage unit. Only had to remove light rust on the jointer and planer beds, lubricate the chain, and install new knives. Once I got the 1ph 220V wall plug installed, I plugged it in¡¡.and NOTHING! Curiously, my model doesn¡¯t have the main power switch, just the on and off buttons on the front. Looks like the green ON button should light up but¡..NOTHING. I don¡¯t have the wiring diagram. Any help in how to proceed is much appreciated!!
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I am surprised that there is no main power switch. Take another look around the machine and also look for a missing switch, in case it has been removed.
There are micro switches on my JP (different model) for lifted tables and dust hood. If these are bad or miss adjusted that would result in no start. Also check the emergency stop to be sure it is not stuck.
Imran
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On Aug 1, 2021, at 8:45 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? I¡¯m not real familiar with the AD531, but from what pictures I can find, power comes in low on the rear, left corner of the machine. There is a rotary switch to turn the main power on down low directly under the outfeed table. The other possible issue is the e-stop button, they have to be turned so they pop out once they have been hit, that will stop any power from being applied.
Pictures would help get you better answers.
Bought an older AD 531 (2006) that had been stored for a long time in a storage unit. Only had to remove light rust on the jointer and planer beds, lubricate the chain, and install new knives. Once I got the 1ph 220V wall plug installed, I plugged it in¡¡.and NOTHING! Curiously, my model doesn¡¯t have the main power switch, just the on and off buttons on the front. Looks like the green ON button should light up but¡..NOTHING. I don¡¯t have the wiring diagram. Any help in how to proceed is much appreciated!!
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I¡¯m not real familiar with the AD531, but from what pictures I can find, power comes in low on the rear, left corner of the machine. There is a rotary switch to turn the main power on down low directly under the outfeed table. The other possible issue is the e-stop button, they have to be turned so they pop out once they have been hit, that will stop any power from being applied.
Pictures would help get you better answers.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bought an older AD 531 (2006) that had been stored for a long time in a storage unit. Only had to remove light rust on the jointer and planer beds, lubricate the chain, and install new knives. Once I got the 1ph 220V wall plug installed, I plugged it in¡¡.and NOTHING! Curiously, my model doesn¡¯t have the main power switch, just the on and off buttons on the front. Looks like the green ON button should light up but¡..NOTHING. I don¡¯t have the wiring diagram. Any help in how to proceed is much appreciated!!
|
Bought an older AD 531 (2006) that had been stored for a long time in a storage unit. Only had to remove light rust on the jointer and planer beds, lubricate the chain, and install new knives. Once I got the 1ph 220V wall plug installed, I plugged it in¡¡.and NOTHING! Curiously, my model doesn¡¯t have the main power switch, just the on and off buttons on the front. Looks like the green ON button should light up but¡..NOTHING. I don¡¯t have the wiring diagram. Any help in how to proceed is much appreciated!!
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Re: Bf 6-31 shaper spindle question
I went online and did some searching and found a cross reference sheet. It¡¯s been years ago I ordered those, I can¡¯t remember where I found the sheet.
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The numbers are correct Brian¡that¡¯s what my BF6 manual shows too.? When you ordered from Motion Industries did you just give them the length and number of ribs??
Greg
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Re: Bf 6-31 shaper spindle question
The numbers are correct Brian¡that¡¯s what my BF6 manual shows too.?
When you ordered from Motion Industries did you just give them the length and number of ribs??
Greg
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Re: Bf 6-31 shaper spindle question
My numbers are from a 700 series machine, vintage 2001¡ so yours could be different for all I know, best to contact Felder or maybe someone that has a BF6.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Aug 1, 2021, at 10:54 AM, mike krockford <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Awesome. Thank you Brian.
Mike
On Aug 1, 2021, at 11:37 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
Yes. My parts list says 9 PJ 559 and 9 PJ 553 for 60hz machines. But, when I ordered new belts from Motion Industries, they were listed as 220J9 and 230J9. I couldn¡¯t tell you which is which, but you are saying the belt you have is too large, so assume the smaller (553 or 220J9) is the one you want.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Aug 1, 2021, at 8:16 AM, mike krockford <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all,
At the risk/likelihood of looking stupid, is there a different belt used for the router spindle as opposed to the 30mm shaper spindle?
I¡¯ve had this machine for ten years and cannot remember if I have ever used the router spindle, as I have a router table as my go-to for smaller shaping.
The belt that fits the 30mm shaper spindle is too loose around the router spindle.
Is there a different belt for the router spindle?
Thanks
Mike
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Re: Bf 6-31 shaper spindle question
Awesome. Thank you Brian.
Mike
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On Aug 1, 2021, at 11:37 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
Yes. My parts list says 9 PJ 559 and 9 PJ 553 for 60hz machines. But, when I ordered new belts from Motion Industries, they were listed as 220J9 and 230J9. I couldn¡¯t tell you which is which, but you are saying the belt you have is too large, so assume the smaller (553 or 220J9) is the one you want.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Aug 1, 2021, at 8:16 AM, mike krockford <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all,
At the risk/likelihood of looking stupid, is there a different belt used for the router spindle as opposed to the 30mm shaper spindle?
I¡¯ve had this machine for ten years and cannot remember if I have ever used the router spindle, as I have a router table as my go-to for smaller shaping.
The belt that fits the 30mm shaper spindle is too loose around the router spindle.
Is there a different belt for the router spindle?
Thanks
Mike
|
Re: Bf 6-31 shaper spindle question
Yes. My parts list says 9 PJ 559 and 9 PJ 553 for 60hz machines. But, when I ordered new belts from Motion Industries, they were listed as 220J9 and 230J9. I couldn¡¯t tell you which is which, but you are saying the belt you have is too large, so assume the smaller (553 or 220J9) is the one you want.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 1, 2021, at 8:16 AM, mike krockford <mcrockford@...> wrote:
Hi all,
At the risk/likelihood of looking stupid, is there a different belt used for the router spindle as opposed to the 30mm shaper spindle?
I¡¯ve had this machine for ten years and cannot remember if I have ever used the router spindle, as I have a router table as my go-to for smaller shaping.
The belt that fits the 30mm shaper spindle is too loose around the router spindle.
Is there a different belt for the router spindle?
Thanks
Mike
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imran
Bruce Gordon