On overhead saw guard, I believe you are describing how it is on saw only machine. Correct? For saw only machine, the bottom horizontal tube is attached to the rear of the chassis with bolts from inside of the saw cabinet.
I have not dealt with this setup to be able to answer the question.
?
Here are a few things¡
1. ¡°do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm"
- You shouldn¡¯t have to, I was able to get it installed with the ext table. It was a pain, can¡¯t remember the exact steps but I did use tape to hold the bolts in place while installed the nuts, you have to install the nuts from inside the cabinet. It¡¯s a heavy sucker i used something to hold it in position height wise and clamped it to the saw so it wouldn¡¯t fall.
2. Yes you need 12¡± calipers of you want to adjust to that level of accuracy, I have some cheapo¡¯s¡
3. You need to use calipers to set the width of the scoring blade with the Shims, new blade should be easy- the scoring blade should have the width on the blade or measure when together without shims, then add the Shims (they are marked, or measure them) to be at or just slightly under (more than likely it will fall just under) main blade width (the scoring blade width should never be wider than the main blade). Then of course you need adjust right and left once installed on machine by taking test cuts.?
4. Your ripping of the 580mm¡ there are a lot of techniques/ways to skin the cat so I won¡¯t really get into to that but¡
Are you saying you ripped from a full width sheet, 4¡¯x8¡¯? If so totally doable without rip fence, i typically rip an 8¡¯ foot sheet down to maybe 18¡± wide before i would pull out the parallel guide. Also the xcut fence would be in the forward position away from the operator, you would be pushing the material into the fence if that makes sense.
Ok, so I wasn¡¯t going to go into technique but¡. I think I posted a video at one point on this so do some searches and yes alot of this has been covered¡
So this is one way, anyone please feel to correct as you see fit (as I am sure you will ?)
If you needed 8 - 22¡±x22¡± pieces from a 4¡¯x8¡¯¡.
1. Set rip fence to 22¡±, pull back extrusion past blade.
2. Set xcut stop to 22¡±
3. Put 8¡¯ side of 4x8 against xcut fence
4. Make a xcut to get rid of factory edge on 4¡¯ side - 1/2¡± or under?
5. Rotate sheet right and rip off the factory edge on the 8¡¯ edge
6. Move sheet a little to the left and pull back carriage with sheet still on it back past the blade
7. Push the panel with the 8¡¯ just cut edge against the rip fence you set to 22¡±
8. Make the cut, then move the cut piece out of the way (remembering the 4¡¯ end that was not cut) leave the piece on the left on the outrigger?
9. Pull the outrigger back, rotate the piece on the outrigger right which will put the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut fence
10. Cut the factory edge off
11. Pull outrigger back, rotate piece right so the 22¡±+ is against xcut, flip the flipstop over ,the one you set to 22¡± earlier.
12. Push piece against the stop and make a rip.
13. Now take your 22¡± wide strip with the 8¡¯ edge against the xcut and slide over and bump against you rip fence set at 22¡± and make a cut then repeat 2 times
14. The last piece left on the outrigger gets cut by using the flip stop on the xfence.
15. Grab the first 22¡± piece you ripped and repeat #13 and #14
??
You now have 8 perfectly square 22¡± x 22¡± pieces assuming your saw is setup correct, i would not be blowing through a 4x8 until you get everything calibrated¡
On Aug 1, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:
?So, today was a big day for me. I finally got my "new" KF700SP set up in a usable position. I still need to rearrange some things before I can put it in the final position. I installed the main dust collection port to my RL160 via 6" Nordfab piping. I have not installed the overhead guard. That's the first question: do I have to remove the extension table that I just leveled in order to install the dust collection support "U-arm"? I don't see how to access the bolting with the table in the way.
Next, I calibrated the rip and cross cut DROs. Looks like I need to buy a longer caliper because the closest I could get the crosscut stop is about 8". I got it as close as I could with a tape.
I installed the Tenryu 50T blade to use while I'm having the Felder blade sharpened. Is there a simple way to calibrate the width of the scoring blade? I checked it against the side of the blade with a straight edge but the width wasn't correct, so I ended up just lowering it out of the way.
I cut up my first few full sheets into some cabinet parts. I encountered a couple of issues and figured I'd see what I'm doing wrong. I ripped the first sheet lengthwise to 580mm. Without a left side parallel rip guide and table support, the best plan I could come up with was to pull the rip fence all the way towards the infeed side and align the sheet to that. The first pass I could clamp the infeed side to the table so that was ok. Then I made a second pass. On that one, cutting to the right of the blade, I had very little material left on the table and I resorted to roller stands on both the infeed and outfeed sides. That felt like I was doing something wrong.
So, if you don't have the parallel rip guide, how do you cut to the left of the blade? Or do you really have to use the rip fence and roller tables and cut to the right of the blade?
Then something similar occurred when I was cross cutting the panels. I used the rip fence as a bump stop and cut my piece to the right of the blade. Then once I'd shortened it by about half I switched to the flip stop on the cross cut fence and cut my piece to the left of the blade. This works but seems very awkward. What's the best way to do this without changing the reference?
So, as a newcomer to this overall process, what's the basic work flow supposed to look like? How do you know what to use as your reference? Assuming not everyone buys the parallel rip guide, how do you align your piece to keep it parallel (the flip stop on the outfeed end provides one reference)? Do most people cut to the right of the blade in this situation?
I apologize if this has been covered previously, but it is a pretty generic question and I couldn't find the right combination of search terms to give me relevant information.
Thanks,
Brandon
