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Re: 3 Phase to 1Phase conversion - braked motors
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThere are many types of single phase motors and each needs to be connected a certain way to a brake controller. While it is technically possible to wire your 3 phase brake controller to a single phase motor, I suspect following. 1. Brake controller will set an error code and hopefully just go offline. I say hopefully, because Felder made at least one saw that won¡¯t start with a bad brake board. 2. Three phase brake board would be undersized for single phase motor of the same size unless you are able to diode OR the DC injection of 3 phases. I am no expert on this topic but when my brake board went kaput I did some research on this topic. So FWIW, my assessment is that you are looking at an engineering project that may not end well. Personally, I would not attempt. Imran On Jul 26, 2021, at 3:06 AM, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
?
Machine in question is a bandsaw, so nothing fancy
If you want to convert a 3-phase machine that has a braked motor,?
can you change it to single phase without needing to change the electronics or do you need to change everything?
Thanks?
Paul
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Re: For Sale: Clamp for Sliding Tenoning Table or other application
Oh heck no..I would say its worth 10 cents plus shipping!! LOL 
On Sunday, July 25, 2021, 06:46:20 PM PDT, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
I just got the dual MacClamp setup for my bolt on sliding table for my Shaper. ?The one that came with the slider is shown in the picture. ?No need for it, but I am thinking this may be of some value to a member. ?Willing to sell it for whatever the first person who posts (other than Randy who will say $0.02) says it should be worth plus shipping. It fits into a 14x10x7 box with a shipping weight of 18 lbs. ?The slider is like the Panhans and I think it is a Hoffmann (not sure if I have the right number of "f" and "n" letters. |
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For Sale: Clamp for Sliding Tenoning Table or other application
I just got the dual MacClamp setup for my bolt on sliding table for my Shaper. ?The one that came with the slider is shown in the picture. ?No need for it, but I am thinking this may be of some value to a member. ?Willing to sell it for whatever the first person who posts (other than Randy who will say $0.02) says it should be worth plus shipping.
It fits into a 14x10x7 box with a shipping weight of 18 lbs. ?The slider is like the Panhans and I think it is a Hoffmann (not sure if I have the right number of "f" and "n" letters. |
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Re: Shaper talk F700z vs. F900z
when I was in the market, my Felder sales showed me changing of spindles on the 700 is easier than 900.?
I have variable speed and progammability on my SCM spindle moulder (SCM TI145EP), I think the programmability is really a time saver and you never have to wind it back/forward because you missed a digit/half/quarter of a digit. if you missed one piece then you have to manually reset your spindle moulder it really takes up valuable time, I am in my shop to make $$ not there to set machines, I can only spend 90 minutes a day in my shop because I have a daytime job, every second counts. About the variable speed...? a lot of cutters have wide range of acceptance speed, you can pretty much stay on the same belt for a lot of times (for most cuts), to me I tend to think if its a lifetime machine, the upfront cost may seem a bit but over the lift of the machine its not that much.? if you spend a lot of time on the SM, have all sorts of cutters and change them frequently then you definitely need variable speed, I dont change the speed on my that often to justify the cost but I still have it because I personally hated changing belt.? |
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Re: planer power drive height adjustment?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý?Ameer, ? That really should not happen and would drive me nuts as DRO is my favorite feature. First a good RPC should not do that if you have the wild leg going only to the motor. I totally understand why you would want a faster method. Maybe you can mark the cutterhead at top with one of the blades at TDC at the bottom of cutterhead. This way you will get close to same result with your current method using a single calibrated 20mm setup board. Out of curiosity, does the DRO show a random number, is slightly off or does it go to the same default value every time? I assume you have already tried turning the RPC on/off with the main power switch on AD741 in the off position. If it were me and I could conclusively determine that this is due to RPC and there are no damaged components in AD741, I would investigate if it is possible to incorporate a regulated PS for the related circuit/circuits. Especially, since I learned they are so cheap during my remote slider switch project. Imran? On Jul 25, 2021, at 1:26 PM, Ameer N. <highentropy@...> wrote: ?Imran, Great follow up! I can see how that would really get the machine dialed in at 20mm. My machine loses calibration every time I turn it off, perhaps this is because I run the machine off of a RPC? Therefore planing a board to 20mm each time and checking with calipers would leave me with a LOT of 20mm boards :P |
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Re: Shaper talk F700z vs. F900z
Brett,
Both David and yourself make very strong arguments.? ?I do want to by a lifetime machine. As a bonus, it seems as you move up the line, optional stuff becomes standard and softens the blow somewhat. What are your opinions on variable speed?? Is that something to break, or an amazing feature?? Or is 5 speeds fine? X-motion is more obviously, but the programmability seems really awesome and time saving?!? Anyone have thoughts on that? Again TIA PK |
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Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Brandon, Thanks for the detailed post. I am sure it would be helpful to others. On shims, I wonder if 2 narrower shims would work better because they can be much longer. As you said perhaps duplicating the felder method is best. Sorry I did not measure that dimension. Imran On Jul 24, 2021, at 11:47 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:
?David, as Imran mentioned, I just moved a KF700 with the 10' tables from near Austin, TX to St Louis, MO. I certainly learned a few things. First, whether you are moving 100 or 1000 miles probably doesn't matter. The packing has to be the same. As mentioned, I used a drop deck trailer. I found a couple of local rental places that had them. I only paid $195 for a full week rental. You might call around and look for more options. I found a single axle 6 x 10 "Air-tow". That was a lot cheaper than the dual axle options and the 7000lb capacity was more than adequate. My machine has the wheel kit and I was able to easily roll it right onto the trailer. Before I left home I made a wood deck out of 2x6s so that I had something to screw into the shipping brackets that Imran was kind enough to mail me. To keep the wood deck from shifting I blocked it against the sides and front of the trailer. I sliced another 2x6 at a 15¡ã angle to make a ramp to allow rolling the machine on top of the wood deck. I also brought along a bunch of 2x4 and 2x6 pieces to block the trailer. I ended up using them to set the saw on so that the weight was off the wheel kit which I didn't want to remove. A floor jack the owner had was very helpful for getting those blocks in place. Once in place I soaked the cast iron table down in . It's basically Cosmoline. As Imran mentioned, I wedged the table ends using the 3D printed shims I'd made in advance. I had made 3 sets (34-35mm, 35-36, and 36-37), based on the dimensions Imran gave me for his saw. Turns out my saw was about 37.5mm so I used the smallest plastic shim and then added two pine wedges on top. I was very careful not to drive them in too hard. However, one set came loose during my 1000 mile trip, so make sure they're at least solidly in place. There's no great way to secure them. You might put some tape over them once they're in place to prevent them coming out during a bounce. Then I used as much 24" shrink wrap as I thought was reasonable to cover the table and wrap the saw. I paid extra attention to the ends of the sliding table. Once the shrink wrap was in place I installed 8 "Made in the USA" tie-down straps from the saw chassis to the tie-down rings on the trailer. I used the vertical studs under the sliding table mount and the cast iron table. Between those and the steel hold-down brackets, I felt very confident it wasn't going anywhere.? Then I added the heavy-duty tarp of the whole assembly. That turned out to be the biggest hassle. I tried tying it down with 550 paracord and a few ratchet straps, but there was no great way to secure it. After the first couple miles on the highway it was obvious I needed to add a LOT more ratchet straps. I stopped at Home Depot and bought a pile of the $1.75 15' versions. I had 8 good ones on the saw and another 16 cheap ones holding the tarp tight from flapping. If you can just avoid moving in the rain, I recommend avoiding the tarp entirely. The rest of the trip was pretty uneventful. The trailer was pretty bouncy and only after I arrived did I discover that the rental place had given me incomplete instructions. They told me to turn off the master power switch when I wasn't using the hydraulics. They failed to mention that also supplies power to the air suspension. So, I'm pretty sure that my ride was much rougher than it needed to be because the air suspension was not pumped up. If you get a drop deck with air suspension, make sure that you have the power on when in motion. If I was doing it again, I would probably make some 3D printed shims that fit in the X-Roll bearings instead of under the table. That's what Felder shows in the manual. I haven't had a chance to measure and draw something for that. It should be a very simple square tapering in two dimensions. If you've got some time, I can measure mine, draw them up and send you the file, or even make a set and mail them to you. I also have not completely reassembled the saw, so I'm not sure in what condition it arrived. I had to order a few straight edges and more dial indicators so that I can follow David Best's alignment procedure. Hopefully I didn't bend anything. Let me know if you have any questions. This group is great! I can't thank Imran enough for his helpful posts before and after my trip. -Brandon <PXL_20210712_201034291.jpg> <PXL_20210715_215105113.jpg> <PXL_20210720_170226002.jpg> |
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Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades
David, as Imran mentioned, I just moved a KF700 with the 10' tables from near Austin, TX to St Louis, MO. I certainly learned a few things.
First, whether you are moving 100 or 1000 miles probably doesn't matter. The packing has to be the same. As mentioned, I used a drop deck trailer. I found a couple of local rental places that had them. I only paid $195 for a full week rental. You might call around and look for more options. I found a single axle 6 x 10 "Air-tow". That was a lot cheaper than the dual axle options and the 7000lb capacity was more than adequate. My machine has the wheel kit and I was able to easily roll it right onto the trailer. Before I left home I made a wood deck out of 2x6s so that I had something to screw into the shipping brackets that Imran was kind enough to mail me. To keep the wood deck from shifting I blocked it against the sides and front of the trailer. I sliced another 2x6 at a 15¡ã angle to make a ramp to allow rolling the machine on top of the wood deck. I also brought along a bunch of 2x4 and 2x6 pieces to block the trailer. I ended up using them to set the saw on so that the weight was off the wheel kit which I didn't want to remove. A floor jack the owner had was very helpful for getting those blocks in place. Once in place I soaked the cast iron table down in . It's basically Cosmoline. As Imran mentioned, I wedged the table ends using the 3D printed shims I'd made in advance. I had made 3 sets (34-35mm, 35-36, and 36-37), based on the dimensions Imran gave me for his saw. Turns out my saw was about 37.5mm so I used the smallest plastic shim and then added two pine wedges on top. I was very careful not to drive them in too hard. However, one set came loose during my 1000 mile trip, so make sure they're at least solidly in place. There's no great way to secure them. You might put some tape over them once they're in place to prevent them coming out during a bounce. Then I used as much 24" shrink wrap as I thought was reasonable to cover the table and wrap the saw. I paid extra attention to the ends of the sliding table. Once the shrink wrap was in place I installed 8 "Made in the USA" tie-down straps from the saw chassis to the tie-down rings on the trailer. I used the vertical studs under the sliding table mount and the cast iron table. Between those and the steel hold-down brackets, I felt very confident it wasn't going anywhere.? Then I added the heavy-duty tarp of the whole assembly. That turned out to be the biggest hassle. I tried tying it down with 550 paracord and a few ratchet straps, but there was no great way to secure it. After the first couple miles on the highway it was obvious I needed to add a LOT more ratchet straps. I stopped at Home Depot and bought a pile of the $1.75 15' versions. I had 8 good ones on the saw and another 16 cheap ones holding the tarp tight from flapping. If you can just avoid moving in the rain, I recommend avoiding the tarp entirely. The rest of the trip was pretty uneventful. The trailer was pretty bouncy and only after I arrived did I discover that the rental place had given me incomplete instructions. They told me to turn off the master power switch when I wasn't using the hydraulics. They failed to mention that also supplies power to the air suspension. So, I'm pretty sure that my ride was much rougher than it needed to be because the air suspension was not pumped up. If you get a drop deck with air suspension, make sure that you have the power on when in motion. If I was doing it again, I would probably make some 3D printed shims that fit in the X-Roll bearings instead of under the table. That's what Felder shows in the manual. I haven't had a chance to measure and draw something for that. It should be a very simple square tapering in two dimensions. If you've got some time, I can measure mine, draw them up and send you the file, or even make a set and mail them to you. I also have not completely reassembled the saw, so I'm not sure in what condition it arrived. I had to order a few straight edges and more dial indicators so that I can follow David Best's alignment procedure. Hopefully I didn't bend anything. Let me know if you have any questions. This group is great! I can't thank Imran enough for his helpful posts before and after my trip. -Brandon |
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Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAt the request of my YouTube viewers, I decided to paste together a (somewhat long) video on aligning the sliding table on a Felder machine. ?You can view it here: ?David Best https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Re: Facilitating remote start on single phase RL125
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMike, To answer your original question, the method shown (in the pdf) obviously works per the poster but it is not my preferred method. I used a potential relay to pull in the start caps in my RPC. As motor comes up to speed the voltage across potential relay drops and it cuts out. Same method is used in commercial control boxes for single phase motors. Nothing wrong with what is recommended, it is just my preference. Imran On Jul 24, 2021, at 2:37 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Mike, For single phase it is a bit more complicated. You can control it with a contactor meant to start single phase motor with start capacitor or a start/run capacitor. The contactor can be controlled with a remote. I did not read thru the pdf and it may be doing something similar. Finally, the contactor switch can be controlled with a current relay if you want to do auto start. If all machines with DC are 3p then all you need is a single current sense relay costing about $20. I have not done this personally but happy to help. We can communicate privately if you have any questions. Imran On Jul 24, 2021, at 8:22 AM, habacomike via groups.io <habacomike@...> wrote: ?It is single phase. ?Automatic control would be nice, but remote control will work¡
Mike
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Re: Ebay: Felder KF700S w/DROs, Aigner Fence, Bowmouldmaster, PF, shaper tooling and two dado blades
Hi David Barnes,
?
Not sure what happened to the shim felder uses but Brandon Nickel just moved a saw with 3D printed shims. I have copied him on the response. Hopefully, he will chime in.
?
As David Best recommended if you are up for removing it that is a safer course and also make the bare chassis much more manageable for transportation.
?
If you have not come across instructions on removing the slider just ask here.
?
Imran?
On Jul 24, 2021, at 5:54 PM, dsbarnes@... wrote:
Hi folks - I have just acquired a KF700S saw that needs to be transported about 100 miles, and was after some guidance on which parts are better off removed, and which left well alone or braced to prevent damage. I have had a good look through the messages here, and think I have most of it, but would welcome some additional advice. Direction right now is to remove the overhead guard, rip fence extension table, outrigger and feeder mount, but I'm not clear on the best way to deal with the slider. Looking through the parts that came with the saw when I went up to view it, I'm not seeing any of the wedges that Imran mentioned in his earlier post, although all of the pallet mtg brackets and other materials seem to be there. It's a 9ft slider (smaller than the one I wanted, but 9' longer that what I have now.....) ; I do have a spare set of hands and 2 HF lift tables, so my inclination would be to remove it to make sure nothing can get damaged; am I storing a whole lot of downstream pain by going this route? There is limited resource for fabricating anything once I arrive, and a pretty narrow time window to get everything loaded; I can make (wood) or 3d print some wedges if that is preferable to removing the slider, but need to have them ready to go before I leave.? for the actual transportation part, based on the advice of the group I was originally going to rent a drop deck trailer;? the only trailer I found locally was $95 / day, and had been ridden hard and put away wet one too many times for me to want to trust it. As the weather is going to be variable, plan B is to rent a 17 ft? Uhaul truck and drag my wheel loader on its trailer behind it to lift the saw it into the truck - it's a bit of a road train but would get the job done efficiently. Plan B would be a 2 ton engine lift to get stuff up to the deck height, but it's likely to be a pretty messy undertaking? If anyone had any suggestions or better ideas, I would appreciate some insight from folks who have actually had to live through it Thanks for all of the great conversations to date - I had originally reached out to the group a couple of years ago when I was looking for Felder shaper and J-P; eventually ended up with a T130, SAC 20: planer and SCM l'invincible jointer that are waiting for power from a PP in my basement - I have been absorbing since then, and learned a great deal by following the decades of experience and knowledge from the group here, as well as meeting a few of you in person Alpine workshops. Thanks in advance for any assistance you cqan offer ofn the slider - it is greatly appreciated, and it will be nice to become a Felder owner :) Best regards David Barnes |
imran
Albert Lee
PK
David P. Best