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Felder FD21 for sale

 

I have a Felder FD21 which I bought a few years ago and have never used, it is brand new. Looking to sell. It is fully loaded with many options. I'm located in the San Francisco Bay Area, would prefer a local buyer if possible, but if no local buyers could go through the trouble to crate it for delivery throughout USA. Let me know if you have interest.
Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

 

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You can find some useful information here: ?

Dan

On Mar 8, 2021, at 7:53 AM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote:

Thanks Imran. It looks like Big Horn makes a similar jig. What do you find it¡¯s shortcomings are?

Michael

On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:44 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
I have Kwikset 91380 which is apparently discontinued. I bought it used. It does the job but I cannot say I love it.


<image0.jpeg>


Imran

On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote:

?I am planning to build new passage doors for my house and I am curious what methods, machinery, jigs and techniques people use to for boring for locksets.

Thanks in advance,

Michael
Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

 

I used this tool for multiple installed doors using mortice locks and other specialized locks that requires more than a round hole. Works very well.


https://mbausa.com/souber-dbb-door-lock-morticer-standard-kit/




Ariel
Re: New K940S issues

 

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Hi Jay,
?
The benefits of commissioning have been shared here but it is a lot of money. My thoughts are that if you are fortunate enough to not feel the pain of $1400 and/or not comfortable with performing calibration go for it.

I believe Felder expects buyer to have the machine assembled prior to commissioning. So could one not decide on commissioning after delivery?

Now a days, with a delivery video, it should be easy to show if something arrives damaged. Harder to know issues like AJ though at the time of delivery. Just make sure to note anything out of ordinary no matter how insignificant. For example, on my used K975 purchase, the slider box was delivered upside down because skids came off of the bottom. It also had a hole in ply on one end but it was apparent that nothing was hit. It took me few months to get to the slider as I was out of the country for couple of months after delivery. Anyhow, I found the plate that carries the roller bearings sitting between the slider and it¡¯s base. I had seen the saw prior to delivery, so I am fairly sure this occurred during shipment.

I have had good luck dealing with Felder on accessories that arrived damaged but some here had to go thru a lot to get satisfaction on machines that had issues. I am pretty sure that much more goes right than wrong so you are playing with odds.

Imran

On Mar 9, 2021, at 10:01 AM, jbowen@... wrote:

?Hmmmm, this has me concerned I ordered a k700s for delivery this summer and considered the onsite calibration but sales guy said these come in dialed in for the most part.? Reading through this thread I am reconsidering cost for onsite was $1,400. I am new to sliders, expectations are high I don't want that to go from excited to totally disappointed in a few hours. The forums thoughts for onsite calibration as part of delivery?

Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

 

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Thanks Tom. I looked more carefully and found the cylinder in my kit so I am happy to know that I have one less thing to do on my next install.

Imran?

On Mar 9, 2021, at 11:05 AM, tom@... wrote:

?Hi Imran! Apologies for the delay, "busy-busy!!". I think this was covered by Chris, but the Templaco strike marker is a simple steel cylinder (1", 7/8", or 5/8") with a sharp point on one end. Once you've bored the door, you slip the strike marker into the door, close it, then slide the marking cylinder against the jamb to produce a small dimple, marking the center of the latch.?

?

Again, carpenters have been successfully fitting doors for generations prior to the introduction of these kits. I did the same myself for the first several years of my career. At this point in my career, I don't need to prove to anybody that I can do it "manually", and prefer to just get it done as quickly/easily as possible and spend my time on more interesting tasks...
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

 

Hi Imran! Apologies for the delay, "busy-busy!!". I think this was covered by Chris, but the Templaco strike marker is a simple steel cylinder (1", 7/8", or 5/8") with a sharp point on one end. Once you've bored the door, you slip the strike marker into the door, close it, then slide the marking cylinder against the jamb to produce a small dimple, marking the center of the latch.?

?

Again, carpenters have been successfully fitting doors for generations prior to the introduction of these kits. I did the same myself for the first several years of my career. At this point in my career, I don't need to prove to anybody that I can do it "manually", and prefer to just get it done as quickly/easily as possible and spend my time on more interesting tasks...
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: New K940S issues

 

Just my thoughts. I¡¯m sure I can make the adjustments. It¡¯s knowing which adjustments to make that make me pay for the commissioning.? I¡¯ve had a K915 x motion and this Kappa 400 x motion. Both needed adjustments.

Bill B¨¦langer?


On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 08:01 <jbowen@...> wrote:
Hmmmm, this has me concerned I ordered a k700s for delivery this summer and considered the onsite calibration but sales guy said these come in dialed in for the most part.? Reading through this thread I am reconsidering cost for onsite was $1,400. I am new to sliders, expectations are high I don't want that to go from excited to totally disappointed in a few hours. The forums thoughts for onsite calibration as part of delivery?

Re: New K940S issues

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I received my KF700SP January 2010.? It was well adjusted out of the crate, withing Felder specs I assume but those tolerances for the slider to table are pretty large.? All the 90 degree settings were perfect.? I am mechanically inclined, that said I would not spend $1400 on commissioning.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of jbowen@...
Sent: Tuesday, March 9, 2021 8:02 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] New K940S issues

?

Hmmmm, this has me concerned I ordered a k700s for delivery this summer and considered the onsite calibration but sales guy said these come in dialed in for the most part.? Reading through this thread I am reconsidering cost for onsite was $1,400. I am new to sliders, expectations are high I don't want that to go from excited to totally disappointed in a few hours. The forums thoughts for onsite calibration as part of delivery?

Re: Tersa Replacement Blades

 

Thanks all for your feedback. I placed order on Friday with


and received them on Monday. That is awesome delivery time considering they are in Canada. Knives were well packaged. They followed up today via email to check if I was satisfied. I have not tried the knives yet but extremely satisfied with this outfit.

Imran
Re: New K940S issues

 

Hmmmm, this has me concerned I ordered a k700s for delivery this summer and considered the onsite calibration but sales guy said these come in dialed in for the most part.? Reading through this thread I am reconsidering cost for onsite was $1,400. I am new to sliders, expectations are high I don't want that to go from excited to totally disappointed in a few hours. The forums thoughts for onsite calibration as part of delivery?
Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I use chain or oscillating chisel and set the lock set before assembly in stile only including stile taper for american style doors.
Mac,,,

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Mar 8, 2021, at 7:56 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Chris,

Thanks for the link. I will look if my kit has a center marker.

Imran

On Mar 8, 2021, at 3:55 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote:

?

Hi Imran

?

I believe the kits are similar with one have some router templates.? You can buy the templates a la carte too .? The support page has good information.? Check out the below links.

?

?

?

https://www.templaco.com/html/SupportDocs.asp

?

?

Regards,

?

Chris

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io
Sent: Monday, March 8, 2021 2:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

?

Hi Tom,

Those are some nice features. Your Templaco is diff than what Chris shared.

If you get time can you share the part of instructions that explain transferring location from door to jamb? I did not get any instructions with my used kwikset, so maybe I have this feature but not aware of it. No hurries.

Imran
Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I am glad I started it too. ?Thanks everyone for your ideas and input.

Michael


On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:31 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

I am glad Michael started this thread. With Chris¡¯s link I learned what to look for. Lo and behold, I have a center marking widget in my kwikset kit. It is black so it kindof disappeared in the black plastic molded insert until I yanked on it. Got a shiny silver tip. Probably never been used.

Thanks guys.

Imran?

On Mar 8, 2021, at 8:56 PM, imranindiana via??<imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Chris,

Thanks for the link. I will look if my kit has a center marker.

Imran

On Mar 8, 2021, at 3:55 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote:

?
Hi Imran
?
I believe the kits are similar with one have some router templates.? You can buy the templates a la carte too .? The support page has good information.? Check out the below links.
?
?
?
?
?
Regards,
?
Chris
?
From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?imranindiana via?
Sent:?Monday, March 8, 2021 2:09 PM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re: [FOG] Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors
?
Hi Tom,

Those are some nice features. Your Templaco is diff than what Chris shared.

If you get time can you share the part of instructions that explain transferring location from door to jamb? I did not get any instructions with my used kwikset, so maybe I have this feature but not aware of it. No hurries.

Imran
Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Richard,?
Segmented steel infeed and chip breaker and smooth steel for out feed, no screwing around approach.
Mac,,,

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Mar 9, 2021, at 2:43 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:

?
Hi Richard,

Rubber infeed rollers are a good idea when two conditions exist: ?1) you¡¯re working with soft woods that would ¡°dent¡± under pressure from a serrated infeed roller, and 2) you¡¯re working with really thin dimensional material (under ?¡±). ?I do this kind of work myself - making soundboards for harpsichords out of sitka spruce (soft) with a thickness of 3.5mm. ?For this I need rubber on infeed and outfeed side. ?

If you don¡¯t ever expect to do this type of work (making classical guitar bodies, violins, ukuleles, etc.) you should stick with a steel infeed roller. ?A rubber outfeed roller is helpful if you¡¯re doing any species of hardwood to under 5mm thickness - it will control the flutter of the material better. ?And on thicker material, the rubber outfeed roller will conform to the wood thickness to pull it through straight and without skewing the stock to an angle.

Rubber rollers (either side of the cutter) are a wear item. ?On the infeed side, the leading corner of material pushed into the roller will slightly chew up the rubber before ?it is grabbed and pushed into the cutter. ?Over time, the roller ends up full of score lines and will need to be recovered with fresh material. ? Here¡¯s are examples of what dimensioning cabinets door stiles/rails on edge will do to the infeed roller over time. ?
?
? ?

They are easy enough to get recovered. ?The cost on my Dual 51 to recover both rollers is about $450 and turnaround time is about a week. ??I recover the rollers with polyurethane, not latex rubber. ?Poly has more grip and will not glaze over nearly as quickly as rubber (same is true for power feeder tires). ?If you¡¯re doing mostly hardwood, the a 70 or 80 durometer density is appropriate. ?If mostly softwoods, I would back down to 60 durometer and expect to have to recover the roller more often. ?

Hope this helps.

David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/





On Mar 8, 2021, at 4:44 PM, Richard Haislip <innovativebuildingservicesllc@...> wrote:

My Kappa 400 xmotion and profil 45z are on the way over the pond as we speak. im ready to purchase a new Jointer and planer , for the jointer i think i have it figured out im doing the A951L with the Silent power head , 10hp motor , aigner fence and power feeder prep. For the planer im doing the Exact 63 , 10hp , silent power head and digi drive and dual outfeed rollers.?

What im going back and forth on are the infeed and outfeed rollers. Segmented steel , single spiral-toothed steel , or rubber for the infeed and Sandblasted steel or rubber for the dual outfeed??

Thoughts??
Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Richard,

Rubber infeed rollers are a good idea when two conditions exist: ?1) you¡¯re working with soft woods that would ¡°dent¡± under pressure from a serrated infeed roller, and 2) you¡¯re working with really thin dimensional material (under ?¡±). ?I do this kind of work myself - making soundboards for harpsichords out of sitka spruce (soft) with a thickness of 3.5mm. ?For this I need rubber on infeed and outfeed side. ?

If you don¡¯t ever expect to do this type of work (making classical guitar bodies, violins, ukuleles, etc.) you should stick with a steel infeed roller. ?A rubber outfeed roller is helpful if you¡¯re doing any species of hardwood to under 5mm thickness - it will control the flutter of the material better. ?And on thicker material, the rubber outfeed roller will conform to the wood thickness to pull it through straight and without skewing the stock to an angle.

Rubber rollers (either side of the cutter) are a wear item. ?On the infeed side, the leading corner of material pushed into the roller will slightly chew up the rubber before ?it is grabbed and pushed into the cutter. ?Over time, the roller ends up full of score lines and will need to be recovered with fresh material. ? Here¡¯s are examples of what dimensioning cabinets door stiles/rails on edge will do to the infeed roller over time. ?
?
? ?

They are easy enough to get recovered. ?The cost on my Dual 51 to recover both rollers is about $450 and turnaround time is about a week. ??I recover the rollers with polyurethane, not latex rubber. ?Poly has more grip and will not glaze over nearly as quickly as rubber (same is true for power feeder tires). ?If you¡¯re doing mostly hardwood, the a 70 or 80 durometer density is appropriate. ?If mostly softwoods, I would back down to 60 durometer and expect to have to recover the roller more often. ?

Hope this helps.

David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/





On Mar 8, 2021, at 4:44 PM, Richard Haislip <innovativebuildingservicesllc@...> wrote:

My Kappa 400 xmotion and profil 45z are on the way over the pond as we speak. im ready to purchase a new Jointer and planer , for the jointer i think i have it figured out im doing the A951L with the Silent power head , 10hp motor , aigner fence and power feeder prep. For the planer im doing the Exact 63 , 10hp , silent power head and digi drive and dual outfeed rollers.?

What im going back and forth on are the infeed and outfeed rollers. Segmented steel , single spiral-toothed steel , or rubber for the infeed and Sandblasted steel or rubber for the dual outfeed??

Thoughts??
Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options

 

I have a Martin T45 with 2 x rubber outfeed rollers and a segmented indeed roller.??

The 2 x outfeed rollers are amazing.? I would order it this way again for sure.??
Segmented roller isn't mandatory .. I see the benefits of it at times but the rubber outeed rollers is the way to go.??



On Monday, March 8, 2021, Richard Haislip <innovativebuildingservicesllc@...> wrote:
My Kappa 400 xmotion and profil 45z are on the way over the pond as we speak. im ready to purchase a new Jointer and planer , for the jointer i think i have it figured out im doing the A951L with the Silent power head , 10hp motor , aigner fence and power feeder prep. For the planer im doing the Exact 63 , 10hp , silent power head and digi drive and dual outfeed rollers.?

What im going back and forth on are the infeed and outfeed rollers. Segmented steel , single spiral-toothed steel , or rubber for the infeed and Sandblasted steel or rubber for the dual outfeed??

Thoughts??
Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I am glad Michael started this thread. With Chris¡¯s link I learned what to look for. Lo and behold, I have a center marking widget in my kwikset kit. It is black so it kindof disappeared in the black plastic molded insert until I yanked on it. Got a shiny silver tip. Probably never been used.

Thanks guys.

Imran?

On Mar 8, 2021, at 8:56 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Chris,

Thanks for the link. I will look if my kit has a center marker.

Imran

On Mar 8, 2021, at 3:55 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote:

?

Hi Imran

?

I believe the kits are similar with one have some router templates.? You can buy the templates a la carte too .? The support page has good information.? Check out the below links.

?

?

?

https://www.templaco.com/html/SupportDocs.asp

?

?

Regards,

?

Chris

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io
Sent: Monday, March 8, 2021 2:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

?

Hi Tom,

Those are some nice features. Your Templaco is diff than what Chris shared.

If you get time can you share the part of instructions that explain transferring location from door to jamb? I did not get any instructions with my used kwikset, so maybe I have this feature but not aware of it. No hurries.

Imran
Re: Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Chris,

Thanks for the link. I will look if my kit has a center marker.

Imran

On Mar 8, 2021, at 3:55 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote:

?

Hi Imran

?

I believe the kits are similar with one have some router templates.? You can buy the templates a la carte too .? The support page has good information.? Check out the below links.

?

?

?

https://www.templaco.com/html/SupportDocs.asp

?

?

Regards,

?

Chris

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io
Sent: Monday, March 8, 2021 2:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Boring techniques and jigs for passage doors

?

Hi Tom,

Those are some nice features. Your Templaco is diff than what Chris shared.

If you get time can you share the part of instructions that explain transferring location from door to jamb? I did not get any instructions with my used kwikset, so maybe I have this feature but not aware of it. No hurries.

Imran
Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options

 

Jp i placed my order in november.
Re: Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options

 

I also?have a Kappa 400 Xmotion on order, when did you place your order? I am expecting mine the first part of July.
Purchasing an exact 63 want to discuss options

 

My Kappa 400 xmotion and profil 45z are on the way over the pond as we speak. im ready to purchase a new Jointer and planer , for the jointer i think i have it figured out im doing the A951L with the Silent power head , 10hp motor , aigner fence and power feeder prep. For the planer im doing the Exact 63 , 10hp , silent power head and digi drive and dual outfeed rollers.?

What im going back and forth on are the infeed and outfeed rollers. Segmented steel , single spiral-toothed steel , or rubber for the infeed and Sandblasted steel or rubber for the dual outfeed??

Thoughts??
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