I use a 5" magport connected to a very short (4-6") length of 5" flex hose.? 120mm = 4? 3/4" approximately--a hose clamp snugs the flex hose to the machine's dust port nicely.
Hi All
I have an Oneida Mini-Gorilla with a that will be doing the dust collecting from my C3-41.?? If I'm reading my owner's manual correctly, the C3-41 has 2 ports where I'll need to connect it, they are 120mm OD.?
I'm hoping many of you have been down this road and already solved this problem -- what are some good solutions for quick and easy changeovers between the ports?? Is there some connector that I can use to terminate the hose which will then attach securely to the 2 ports on the C3-41 yet detach quickly for easy switching?? Is there something I should attach to the 120mm ports on the C3-41 instead to mate with the 5" hose?
Bonus points if the solution can also enable an easy attach/detach with the 5" OD wye connector which collects dust from my bandsaw's 2 ports.
Thanks for any recommendations!
Ed
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Hi Ed!?
I too have a Oneida Mini-Gorilla (cast resin version, ~4 years old), it's sufficient as a dedicated collector for all of my machinery but I'm growing weary of shuttling the hose from machine to machine, working on sorting out whether I'll be better served with a RL140 or 160 longer term.?
Back to your setup, the Felder item # 02.1.020 is what you'll want for connecting your 5" flex hose to your 120mm ports. I have mine clamped to the inside of the 5" flex hose, and the fitting fits over the outside of the 120mm Felder ports. Easy on/off. ??
For my Laguna LT14SUV, I have the two 4" ports connecting to a Y at the base of the machine, which I connect to my 5" flex hose with the following 5"-to-4" reducer from Oneida:??
I hope this helps!
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Hi All
I have an Oneida Mini-Gorilla with a that will be doing the dust collecting from my C3-41.?? If I'm reading my owner's manual correctly, the C3-41 has 2 ports where I'll need to connect it, they are 120mm OD.?
I'm hoping many of you have been down this road and already solved this problem -- what are some good solutions for quick and easy changeovers between the ports?? Is there some connector that I can use to terminate the hose which will then attach securely to the 2 ports on the C3-41 yet detach quickly for easy switching?? Is there something I should attach to the 120mm ports on the C3-41 instead to mate with the 5" hose?
Bonus points if the solution can also enable an easy attach/detach with the 5" OD wye connector which collects dust from my bandsaw's 2 ports.
Thanks for any recommendations!
Ed
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How about a Hammer unit ?
D
Sent from my iEye
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Buying a BF6 would never be a bad idea, they are plain good old fashioned engineering solidly built. Parts from Felder aren't cheap and not everything is still available
That being said I have spent the last couple of months of lockdown doing a nut and bolt overhaul of my well used BF6-26 and apart from bearings and belts have not had to replace any major parts.
If you have the choice a later machine with the f coupling (square) rather than the S coupling (dovetail) on the table edges will give you a better selection of accessories particularly extension tables, but its not impossible to re-machine stock aluminium
tables if you know a good engineer.
If you buy a 6-41 with a long table try and get one with the swing arm and outrigger as these are no longer available and don't come up second hand more than once a millennium.
Paul
Sent from my Windows Phone
Hello all,
I'm wanting to upgrade from a mediocre table saw, mediocre jointer, and mediocre planer to a combination machine. I haven't found a 741(?) that is both used and in my budget, but every so often a 641 shows up for sale. Am I crazy to look at getting a machine
this old? I trust the Felder build quality but would picking up a used 631 be headache after headache??
For perspective: I'm a hobbyist woodworker with a? 1.5 stall garage that has an old unisaw that isn't stellar and an even older, more out-of-square jointer and planer.
Thanks!
Elliot
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Hello all,
I'm wanting to upgrade from a mediocre table saw, mediocre jointer, and mediocre planer to a combination machine. I haven't found a 741(?) that is both used and in my budget, but every so often a 641 shows up for sale. Am I crazy to look at getting a machine this old? I trust the Felder build quality but would picking up a used 631 be headache after headache??
For perspective: I'm a hobbyist woodworker with a? 1.5 stall garage that has an old unisaw that isn't stellar and an even older, more out-of-square jointer and planer.
Thanks!
Elliot
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Greg,
There happens to be one listed on the used Felder site. Link below.?
It is 3 phase, does not have a spiral cutter but does have Digidrive (numeric keypad).?
https://www.world4machines.com/en-us/used-machines
--
Mike B
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Greg, welcome to the group! This wouldn't happen to be the one and only Greg Mix of Danville, CA, would it? This is Shawn, I built your entry door years ago, even though you could have done it yourself. To everyone else, Greg here built the most beautiful grandfather clock I've seen, along with a Blacker armchair, and other various accoutrement. You're welcome here anytime. But sorry, my 941 is not for sale. -Shawn
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021, 10:05:29 AM PST, <gregnmix@...> wrote:
I am brand new to the Felder Owners Group and joined at a friend's suggestion. I'm looking to purchase a used Felder AD 741 Jointer-Planer, ideally with the spiral cutterhead and power drive table adjustment.? Since I'm new I don't know if this is the right place to post this message. If not I'll appreciate any guidance.?I already have one Felder Machine, the FB 510 Band Saw, and now it's time for Felder number two.
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
Thanks Mike. I can see what I need to make now! ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mike Spray
Sent: 02 March 2021 17:45
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] BF6 Mounting a power feed ? I have what I think you¡¯re asking about.? I¡¯ve got the variofeed 4 (a monster, way too heavy.? Wish I bought a strut to assist when I ordered my saw) and have to tilt it out of the way to use the rip fence.? Yes, it attaches to the dovetail.? I don¡¯t see how mounting to the table would work as it¡¯d be on the wrong side of the cut (If I¡¯ve understood your question. ? The user manual mentions a tilting mount for putting a power feed onto a BF6.
I can see why you'd want to swing the feed out of the way on a combi machine.
Does anyone have one of these? Do they attach to the dovetail on the end of the table?
Are there any other options for mounting a power feed to a BF6?
I guess I could just bolt it into the Tee slots on the sliding table?
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I am brand new to the Felder Owners Group and joined at a friend's suggestion. I'm looking to purchase a used Felder AD 741 Jointer-Planer, ideally with the spiral cutterhead and power drive table adjustment.? Since I'm new I don't know if this is the right place to post this message. If not I'll appreciate any guidance.?I already have one Felder Machine, the FB 510 Band Saw, and now it's time for Felder number two.
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
The top plate (hinged) dogs down to the base (the orange handles).? Almost moot in my experience given the weight of the power feeder.
Ah yes! Thanks for that. Are there any lockdowns to stop it lifting? I assume they'd go in the open slots.
Just found it on the Felder site. It's only ?300...? I can feel a grinder and welder session coming on...
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Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
Ah yes! Thanks for that. Are there any lockdowns to stop it lifting? I assume they'd go in the open slots.
Just found it on the Felder site. It's only ?300...? I can feel a grinder and welder session coming on...
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Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
Richard
I have what I think you¡¯re asking about.? I¡¯ve got the variofeed 4 (a monster, way too heavy.? Wish I bought a strut to assist when I ordered my saw) and have to tilt it out of the way to use the rip fence.? Yes, it attaches to the dovetail.? I don¡¯t see how mounting to the table would work as it¡¯d be on the wrong side of the cut (If I¡¯ve understood your question.
Mike
The user manual mentions a tilting mount for putting a power feed onto a BF6.
I can see why you'd want to swing the feed out of the way on a combi machine.
Does anyone have one of these? Do they attach to the dovetail on the end of the table?
Are there any other options for mounting a power feed to a BF6?
I guess I could just bolt it into the Tee slots on the sliding table?
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Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
I assume that this is what you're looking for, on my BF6-26.? It looks like it hangs on the dovetail and also has two bolts into the frame of the saw, just above the power cord.
The user manual mentions a tilting mount for putting a power feed onto a BF6.
I can see why you'd want to swing the feed out of the way on a combi machine.
Does anyone have one of these? Do they attach to the dovetail on the end of the table?
Are there any other options for mounting a power feed to a BF6?
I guess I could just bolt it into the Tee slots on the sliding table?
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BF6 Mounting a power feed
The user manual mentions a tilting mount for putting a power feed onto a BF6.
I can see why you'd want to swing the feed out of the way on a combi machine.
Does anyone have one of these? Do they attach to the dovetail on the end of the table?
Are there any other options for mounting a power feed to a BF6?
I guess I could just bolt it into the Tee slots on the sliding table?
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An easier way is to have vacuum storage. Just take an old compressor tank and turn it into vacuum storage. Attach it to your lines and use it to suck out the first bunch of air letting your pump do the rest. As long as the tank is airtight you can hold extra vacuum capacity indefinitely.?
On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 9:53 AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: As Jonathan just mentioned, a fast way to evacuate a large bag is beneficial. We have a 5x10' zipper bag from Vacupress, and use their pump. It takes a long time to suck the air out of that bag with a 3" tall object being veneered. We started using an extra Fein vac that was sitting around, but any noisy shop vac would do. It's easy with the zipper to stick the vac hose in the last little opening, suck it down quick and let the pump take over. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
612.432.2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
-- _____________________
Fred Rossi 617.905.6497
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As Jonathan just mentioned, a fast way to evacuate a large bag is beneficial. We have a 5x10' zipper bag from Vacupress, and use their pump. It takes a long time to suck the air out of that bag with a 3" tall object being veneered. We started using an extra Fein vac that was sitting around, but any noisy shop vac would do. It's easy with the zipper to stick the vac hose in the last little opening, suck it down quick and let the pump take over. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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On Mar 2, 2021 01:03, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote:
I have a rather large the veneer job coming up. An architect has designed a fancy roof to go at the rear of our house and it has rather complicated curved beams cut out of LVL beam material. I want to edge each beam and solid timber and apply a 3 mm shop sawn veneer. I think I have worked out a system for setting up the bag but I have no vacuum pump.
Also think about the volume you need to extract. This goes up rapidly as projects get larger especially when using curved shapes.?
You might want two extraction methods. One for fast evacuation of the bulk of the air and a second to maintain the vacuum level you require once the bulk of the air has been evacuated.?
Regards,?
Jonathan?
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Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw
Joe,
The first two digits of the serial number indicate the year that it was built.? For example, my Northfield planer's serial number is A-01... and was built in 2001.
? ?Dennis
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I made the same vacuum pump but used a small cast off air compressor tank for the build. It works great.?
I also have the expensive vacuum press from VacuPress. The kit pump works just as well. It¡¯s just not as heavy duty.?
Gil Fuqua? Nashville?
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On Mar 1, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Sawdust77 <rscotthanna@...> wrote:
? I made this vacuum pump for veneering and am very?happy with it:
?- Scott On Mon, Mar 1, 2021 at 7:04 PM murrayau1 < murraywp@...> wrote: I have a rather large the veneer job coming up. An architect has designed a fancy roof to go at the rear of our house and it has rather complicated curved beams cut out of LVL beam material. I want to edge each beam and solid timber and apply a 3 mm shop sawn veneer. I think I have worked out a system for setting up the bag but I have no vacuum pump.
Some years back I did a small veneer in job for some plywood draw bottoms and I just used a vacuum storage bag from the grocery store, a large and very powerful Mile?vacuum cleaner rigged up to a timer switch so it cycled on and off. It worked out really well and after 15 years there is no sign of any problems.
This time around I don't want to use the vacuum cleaner, but purpose made vacuum press pumps are hugely expensive. You can get much cheaper vacuum pumps designed for removing refrigerant gas and many of these produce more than enough vacuum for the purpose. I did a bit of research on the Internet and there was plenty of people claiming success? veneering with these pumps. There were however a couple of issues that they noted.?I know nothing about these refrigerant pumps but it would seem that they must use a thick film of oil between the piston and the cylinder to achieve the vacuum and as a result they consume quite a bit of oil and exhaust a fine oilly mist. Furthermore it would seem that when the system cycles off if there is any leakage in the bag oil can be sucked up towards the workpiece. The suggested solutions are to fit and non-return valve and try and place the pump outside. I'll be doing the job outside anyway so this shouldn't be an issue.
Another possible cheaper option is using a venturi valve system, they seem to work well for small jobs but I'm concerned they may not be up to the task of the large beams that I am attempting to veneer.
I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these pumps or any suggestions or comments on the above.
Thanks in advance
Murray
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Jeff
Tom Gensmer
Fred Rossi
Jason Holtz
Jonathan Martens