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Re: A note of caution
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJason, I pray your mate comes out of it fully recovered and as soon as possible. I learned this lesson when i was on the roof during constructing the addition behind my shop and my ladder fell. Yes, I know i need to secure it but it was on the opposite end of the prevailing wind side. Another safety rule of our house, no chainsaw work when wife is not home. Does not matter if I have cell or not. Imran On Jan 22, 2021, at 9:50 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
?I know most of the folks in this group are hobbyists, and as such are probably in the shop alone most of the time. Please carry your phone on your person at all times in case of an accident. Yesterday in the shop, there were three of us fortunately. I'm usually aware of my surroundings and am quick to offer help before someone asks for it. Not yesterday though. I was applying finish, had my earphones on in my own world. That's when I heard the crash from across the shop. My shop mate had been on a ladder getting some wood off of the storage rack. We found him on the floor on his back, twisted up in a pile of wood and the ladder. He was unconscious and bleeding badly from the back of his head. Called 911. We got all the wood/ladder moved off of him and I rolled him to his side and applied pressure to his wound to stop the bleeding. I kept talking to him and he came to, and was totally incoherent for a couple minutes. He started to make some sense after a couple minutes, but had no idea what happened. The paramedics arrived within 10 minutes. They put a neck brace on him and got him sitting up for a minute, but he was very nauseous. They then put him on a gurney and took him out to the ambulance where they checked him out further. Ended up at HCMC, a level one trauma center. CT scan showed a brain bleed and skull fractures. His cognitive test results were good. Hoping for the best. He may be there a while. I shudder to think about if he would have been in the shop alone.? Please check your risk factors. Ask for help when you need it. Your friends and family want you around. Jason ? -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
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A note of caution
I know most of the folks in this group are hobbyists, and as such are probably in the shop alone most of the time. Please carry your phone on your person at all times in case of an accident.
Yesterday in the shop, there were three of us fortunately. I'm usually aware of my surroundings and am quick to offer help before someone asks for it. Not yesterday though. I was applying finish, had my earphones on in my own world. That's when I heard the crash from across the shop. My shop mate had been on a ladder getting some wood off of the storage rack. We found him on the floor on his back, twisted up in a pile of wood and the ladder. He was unconscious and bleeding badly from the back of his head. Called 911. We got all the wood/ladder moved off of him and I rolled him to his side and applied pressure to his wound to stop the bleeding. I kept talking to him and he came to, and was totally incoherent for a couple minutes. He started to make some sense after a couple minutes, but had no idea what happened. The paramedics arrived within 10 minutes. They put a neck brace on him and got him sitting up for a minute, but he was very nauseous. They then put him on a gurney and took him out to the ambulance where they checked him out further. Ended up at HCMC, a level one trauma center. CT scan showed a brain bleed and skull fractures. His cognitive test results were good. Hoping for the best. He may be there a while. I shudder to think about if he would have been in the shop alone.? Please check your risk factors. Ask for help when you need it. Your friends and family want you around. Jason ? -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
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For Folks Who Complain about Felder Service
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI honestly received this pic from an OEM regarding motor connections. Below is what original connections look like. I seriously was shocked beyond belief and literally thought the tech was starting with a joke to be followed by actual information. The icing was this statement, ¡°Make sure all your wires match those in the attached document as closely as possible.¡± ¡°As closely as possible¡± is not how one should make electrical connections. BTW, the blue wire on bottom right is pointed straight down now ? Imran |
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Re: motor(s) overheating on vintage SCM Minimax
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOh! service rating is S followed by a number, e.g., S6. There is a nice concise chart that John Kee posted but this is what I could find. Imran? On Jan 22, 2021, at 8:06 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Acharya, I am not a motor expert but here is what I can offer. The RPC I built with a used 10HP motor ran idle (no load) for 17-18 yrs until I sold it. I assumed your motor is fan cooled so, check that there is airflow. Are the motors relatively clean? Caked on dust/grime can contribute to heat.?Is your shop air conditioned, if not, is the ambient temp higher than recommended? It would be odd that both motors will have a fault at the same time with same symptoms so I would check the voltage (under load) at the motor to make sure it is within range. It is important to check voltage at the motor because even if you have good voltage at the panel or phase converter it can drop across old wires and worn interconnects. If you have a clamp meter check current as high current is one reason motor will run hot. Finally, there is a service rating on motors. In most cases our machines do not have continuous run motors. So there is a duty cycle (max running time followed by adequate off time) defined for each. I have never paid attention to the time I run the machine and have never over heated but I assume it is possible to do so. If you want to do the experiment, I would do it with shaper as it is easy to completely remove the belt from the pulley and the spindle. I would not run it unattended. Imran On Jan 21, 2021, at 11:17 PM, Acharya Kumarnathaswami <kumar@...> wrote: ?I'm planning on replacing my Minimax 300 CU; year of manufacture: 2000. For several years I have experienced overheating of the saw and shaper motors when running the machine for extended periods, especially under heavy load, e.g., thick hardwood ripping on the saw.?
Is there any danger in letting the saw run with no load to see how long it will go before shutting itself off (which is had been doing). I want to test it before presenting it for sale. I did some cleanup on the shop wiring, which MAY have improved matters. When the motor(s) have overheated in the past, they shut themselves off without tripping a breaker. After letting the saw sit and cool down, it would turn on again. This is not a production shop, so I rarely do long runs, only when I get a helper or two and have some extended time off from other duties for a special project.? One more question: For a future owner, does this sound like something that could be remedied by having the motor rewound at a motor shop? What does that procedure normally cost (if the motor tech thinks it will be effective? |
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Re: motor(s) overheating on vintage SCM Minimax
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAcharya, I am not a motor expert but here is what I can offer. The RPC I built with a used 10HP motor ran idle (no load) for 17-18 yrs until I sold it. I assumed your motor is fan cooled so, check that there is airflow. Are the motors relatively clean? Caked on dust/grime can contribute to heat.?Is your shop air conditioned, if not, is the ambient temp higher than recommended? It would be odd that both motors will have a fault at the same time with same symptoms so I would check the voltage (under load) at the motor to make sure it is within range. It is important to check voltage at the motor because even if you have good voltage at the panel or phase converter it can drop across old wires and worn interconnects. If you have a clamp meter check current as high current is one reason motor will run hot. Finally, there is a service rating on motors. In most cases our machines do not have continuous run motors. So there is a duty cycle (max running time followed by adequate off time) defined for each. I have never paid attention to the time I run the machine and have never over heated but I assume it is possible to do so. If you want to do the experiment, I would do it with shaper as it is easy to completely remove the belt from the pulley and the spindle. I would not run it unattended. Imran On Jan 21, 2021, at 11:17 PM, Acharya Kumarnathaswami <kumar@...> wrote:
?I'm planning on replacing my Minimax 300 CU; year of manufacture: 2000. For several years I have experienced overheating of the saw and shaper motors when running the machine for extended periods, especially under heavy load, e.g., thick hardwood ripping on the saw.? Is there any danger in letting the saw run with no load to see how long it will go before shutting itself off (which is had been doing). I want to test it before presenting it for sale. I did some cleanup on the shop wiring, which MAY have improved matters. When the motor(s) have overheated in the past, they shut themselves off without tripping a breaker. After letting the saw sit and cool down, it would turn on again. This is not a production shop, so I rarely do long runs, only when I get a helper or two and have some extended time off from other duties for a special project.? One more question: For a future owner, does this sound like something that could be remedied by having the motor rewound at a motor shop? What does that procedure normally cost (if the motor tech thinks it will be effective? |
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RL 125 CFM with new filter
?Well I broke down and bought testo 405i anemometers before replacing the RL125 filter. Previous owner had used this DC with WBS and we knew that it is plugged with fine dust to some extent. I bought the more expensive filter (02.1.135 - $447), apparently that is all felder intends to sell going forward. Anyone reading with interest to use this info should note that I have 4KW 3 phase motor.
I did baseline measurements with each machine. In general got around 600CFM - I have exact # documented but it will become clear why I am not bothering to write them down here. I cleaned the filter from the back side and discarded the chip bag. Made measurements with clean bag. Got less than 100CFM improvement. Replaced the filter and now I have a good problem. I am exceeding the 6000fpm (~800CFM) max on my meter on my worst path to bandsaw. Bandsaw is not connected so this is with 4¡± blast gate open. I was concerned about this but max airflow stated in RL125 manual with 4m hose comes to 26m/s. So I thought 30m/s meter limit should work because I have nearly 40¡¯ of 5¡± pipe and five 90 elbows on my longest path. I know the filter will get dirty and flow will reduce but I am not certain by how much. BTW, the sound level has increased; near I can tell it is from pipes with increased air flow. People who have anemometers, is yours capable of higher air speed measurements? If so, I be interested in model details. The ones I have found are near $800. Another good news is that my previous gasket job is working. This is where I removed, cleaned and applied new gasket that the filter sits upon. There was no dust on the clean side of the filter. Exception was the fine dust near the ledge next to the pipe that keeps the chip bag contained. I imagined this was sucked in from the bin after many changes of bags. I was already getting over 5000fpm before changing the filter. This tells me that RL125 could be plumbed with 6¡± main duct for some layouts and especially with 4KW motor. I inquired with felder before buying the pipe and they recommended not to go over the inlet size. That is too bad. Das ist alles, Imran |
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Making the most of square overhead dust arms
#diy
#dustguard
#dustcollection
Sharing a potential storage location for the Felder parallel guide arm. I stumbled on the idea when changing out the factory dust guard bolts with stainless ones at first wanting to use the tube as the dust hose however the hinge restricts the end eliminating that option. Turns out there is plenty of depth to hold the parallel guide arm and the locking block protrudes less than the existing dust arm housing, i.e. no lost clearance. The inserts are press fit and created a nice opportunity for a "vanity" plate. The first chamfered square version had an incorrect outer radius not matching the tube while the second radiused version is nearly perfect and served as modeling practice. The parts are directly off the printer with no sanding or vapor smoothing, etc. The texture seen is from the textured heated plate it is printed on face down.
Open for suggestions on how to further utilize this existing overhead arm such as a bracket or formed sheetmetal part holding the dust hose, an extra rip fence, the miter fence, another aftermarket parallel guide such as the Lamb tool works version (unsure if his machined end fits inside the arm)?? With the proliferation of low cost, accurate printers shall we start a .stl or 3D Print file category for sharing these types of things?? -- Mike B |
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Re: Low Cost DRO for Hammer C31 Table Saw Fence setup SUCCESS!!
#hammer
It¡¯s the standard low cost table fence from felder? On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 7:30 PM <annu.marwaha@...> wrote: Tell me more about the fence you are using there. --
Drew Tosh Co-Owner 413 S Frontier Ln Cedar Park, TX 78613 Main: 512-553-9663 Mobile: 512-971-7406 |
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Re: zci for k940
Very well done Mark. I have a message in to Felder regarding purchasing the LED module as an upgrade for a non auto rise model and am curious what the control interface is like. Any insights from your schematics?
With a new set of inserts, the gap between the plastic and the slider is over 11mm in the blade area and 1.3mm away at the full with sections. Following is a problem that would have been prevented with a ZCI and why I too will be creating or purchasing one. Last year when trimming the end of a mitered euro ply shelf the triangle offcut found its way through the gap hitting the chip deflector bending it into the scoring blade taking off a tooth in the process..... It was a new scoring blade. Another upgrade might be replacing the deflector with 1/8"+ AL plate to replace the thin stock part?? -- Mike B |
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Low Cost DRO for Hammer C31 Table Saw Fence setup SUCCESS!!
#hammer
For anyone that in interested, I took a leap of design faith and purchased a Wixey Saw Fence Digital Readout to have a lower cost DRO on the table side of my Hammer C31.
Happy to share with limited medications to the kit from Wixey and 4-5 holes in the bottom of the fence rail on the Hammer you have a great DRO setup. See attached images.? The Magnet on the Wixey is positioned close enough to worm without any modifications to the fence. https://www.rockler.com/wixey-saw-fence-digital-readout |
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Re: A3-31 Specs
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDoes hammer jointer outfeed tables have the same issues as some felder¡¯s where they won¡¯t go down fully until forced? Imran On Jan 21, 2021, at 7:08 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
When you say TDC of Cutters you are referring to the TDC of the cutting edge of the insert itself, correct??? Dave
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Jterry <jmt5472@...>
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2021 7:04 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] A3-31 Specs ?
I have the outfeed table with both corners same height. Still seems high. I would expect the outfeed table ?to be level with TDC of the cutters, but it¡¯s higher.?
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imran
Jason Holtz
Drew Tosh
Jterry