Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Fair point.? Almost easier to chew a panel to size.? Dave
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I don’t doubt blade alignment relative to the fence has something do with it, but when wrestling full pieces of sheeting and/or long 2x6 on a small saw, I’m not sure that there’s any way to prevent the back of the blade contacting the material due to the material
being fed inconsistently and wobbling on and off the fence. Two people helps, but doesn’t eliminate the wobble, at least in my experience.
?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the small table and my
tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen? And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after getting the blade guard
with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 06:47 AM, Jason Holtz wrote:
Ripping a 12' 2x6 on a jobsite saw that weighs less than the board you're cutting is a challenge as well. You couldn't do it solo anyway.
?
It's a piece of cake.? You push it half way through to the balance point, then walk around to the other side, and pull it the rest of the way.? With heavy boards, you need to screw the saw down to something with a little heft, or clamp it to your tailgate, etc.
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I don’t doubt blade alignment relative to the fence has something do with it, but when wrestling full pieces of sheeting and/or long 2x6 on a small saw, I’m not sure that there’s any way to prevent the back of the blade contacting the material
due to the material being fed inconsistently and wobbling on and off the fence. Two people helps, but doesn’t eliminate the wobble, at least in my experience.
?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the
small table and my tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of TJ Cornish <tj@...>
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2021 9:54 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Job site saw recommendation?
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen?
And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after
getting the blade guard with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
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Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
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Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Paul,? I think Felder originally had a bent piece hey of U channel ?than later came out with a cast block with f couplings. They bolted table edge ?they made s to s ?and s to f think
 F  Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:37 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Paul, ? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the small table and my tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen? And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after getting the blade guard
with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
One of the issues with not having the ZCI is sometimes I have to slice off the ends of solid boards and that small off cut can wedge between the blade and the deflect it into the sliding table.? With a ZCI, that problem is eliminated since the off cut will just sit on the insert and not go anywhere. I'm really hoping someone can 3D print something for the K975 and make it available for purchase.. I'm willing to buy several if they ever got made
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 06:45:01 AM PST, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen?
And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after
getting the blade guard with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 08:47 AM, Jason Holtz wrote:
You couldn't do it solo anyway
Yes and no, if well supported infeed and outfeed at the same level at the saw (mostly saw on the ground), this is feasible. Bill
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Ripping a 12' 2x6 on a jobsite saw that weighs less than the board you're cutting is a challenge as well. You couldn't do it solo anyway. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Paul, ? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Hi Bill,
I said most not all.
I still hear from my wife that grandpa built two houses with circular saw as his only power tool so why do I need this workshop, LOL
Imran?
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:25 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote: ?On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 10:39 PM, imranindiana wrote:
Miter saw or circular saw
If you made your own roof and want a backer for your fascia board at the ends of the rafters, you usually ripped the edge of this backer to match the slope of the roof. A job site table saw will help. A circular saw can do the job, but on 12 ft long 2x6 this is not an easy job. Bill
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I haven’t tried it personally but if I was in the same boat I would have a hard look at the sawstop jobsite saw and try to give it a run side by side with the others. I have the DEWALT and no complaints on that. It was inexpensive, good eneough power, and the
fence is quite stable. ?I also bought it years ago before the sawstop was available. But after using a slider and hold downs, when I do use it I am getting a lot closer to a blade than I am comfortable with. Seems to have excellent reviews as well.?
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
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On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 10:39 PM, imranindiana wrote:
Miter saw or circular saw
If you made your own roof and want a backer for your fascia board at the ends of the rafters, you usually ripped the edge of this backer to match the slope of the roof. A job site table saw will help. A circular saw can do the job, but on 12 ft long 2x6 this
is not an easy job.
Bill
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Mark,?
Love that dovetail detail for parts that dont fit on the 3d bed. I will have to remember that trick for future projects. ?What software are you using for your design? ?Sorry if you already mentioned it. ?
Looking fantastic,?
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BTW, plastic is safer than metal to have around the blade. Are you having the parts milled (i think you mentioned AL) because some portions of the design are too thin to be robust in plastic?
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 10:39 PM, imranindiana wrote:
Miter saw or circular saw
If you made your own roof and want a backer for your fascia board at the ends of the rafters, you usually ripped the edge of this backer to match the slope of the roof. A job site table saw will help. A circular saw can do the job, but on 12 ft long 2x6 this is not an easy job. Bill
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This looks great, will your ZCI work on a new Kappa 400 I have coming with the led scoring lights? Sure would like a ZCI option on my new saw.?
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Re: Electrical Problem with CF731 Pro
Greg,
Since the tablesaw motor works in the shaper connector and position, at least you know that your motor is good. ?Since you have changed out the selector switch and it’s doing the same thing, you probably are good there as well. ?I’m not familiar with the 731, but does it have some sort of limit switch just for the table saw? ?For instance, on my c3-31, there is a limit switch on the panel to access the shaper motor and a limit switch that makes sure the jointer table is locked down or that the dust hood in the planer setup is engaged and not exposing the rotating planer head. ?It could be that one of your limit switches is bad and not letting the saw engage. ?Do you have a wiring diagram that you can share?
-Annu
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Jason Holtz
imran
JP Rice