Re: The Unofficial Survival Guide
I'll take it How can I get ahold of you?
On Monday, January 11, 2021, 12:01:51 PM PST, Rob Service <rserv2012@...> wrote:
Assuming Bill sold his copy, if anyone is still interested I have a copy I will let go for $100.
Rob
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Re: Felder KF700 and Hammer A3-31 For Sale
#forsale
So sorry to hear of your illness. Good luck with the sales.
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Thanks again chaps!
Tomorrow is looking wet all day and temps into double figures, so I will have all day to play tunes on those planer blades!
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Hi Richard? If your tables are now set flat an level with each other here goes! Lit up the indeed side for easy turning tighten the blades in the blade holder. Drop it into the slot and start at one end of the blade. Use your stick held flat over that end and rotate the cutter block, your looking for that just touching as the blade passes, then sneak the lock screw.. not tight just nipped! Repeat across the bar then recheck again, you’ll find you have to make small adjustments. When happy tighten the blade holder screws tight. Again gently make sure that the height screws are all tight! Repeat for second blade! Then try it!
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On 11 Jan 2021, at 20:23, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
?
Richard,
It sounds like the previous owner confused the planner block for
a moulder block and messed with the wrong screws.
1st step is to number the cutter bars and the slots as the block
would have been dynamically balanced with them in so it is best not to shuffle them around.
Next mark a datum line across the block with a thin permanent
marker an exact distance behind one of the cutter slots. As thin a line as possible
with a DTI and base check that the out feed table is level with
the block, if its not then you will either need to adjust the tables again,
or the thicknesser table would have to be adjusted, not a job I would like to try on an excellent day let alone a good or average one....
The height adjustment screws were not thread locked in just biblically tight in there threads
(like so many other bits on a BF6) which is compounded by the fine dust that accumulates in the threads.
Sorry fat fingered moment while writing
So at this point it is worth thoroughly stripping and cleaning the cutter bars.
Set the DIT to the top dead centre position on the Block using your reference line draw earlier.
at this point it is notable that having two DTI's on based makes this 10 time quicker
Reassemble one bar with all the screws wound flush with the base of the bar and fit with a knife into the block using the DTI set to Zero against the outfeed table bring the two ends of the knife up level to the table,
Note: You will have to play tunes on the clamping screws versus the height adjusters as you do this.
Note: The DTI should be positioned in line with the Height adjustment screws at either end.
At this point only set the knife height using the outer two height adjustment screws.
Once the knife is level bring it approx. 0.003 to 0.005 above the level of the table, this should carry a test piece of timber 3-5mm 1/8"-3/16"as the knife is moved pasted TDC
Lock the clamping screw at one end and move the DTI to the other.
Adjust the inner clamping screws closest to the DTI downwards until you see a movement on the DTI, back it of until you return to your original reading.
Move the DTI to the other end and repeat the process. you may need to repeat this step twice.
Once you are happy that the Knife is level all the way across with the clamping screws tight slacken of all the clamping screw and re tighten from the middle out and check again and then repeat and check again.
Remove the knife and holder and measure the projection of the height adjustment screws, they should be the same within a few thou, if not check the cutter slot for any wear or damage.
Set the outer height adjustment screws to the same level as your 1st blade holder and install into the block.
Check and adjust the height at each end and adjust, then repeat the process for the inner height adjusters as previously stated.
Keep checking as you go around the block, remove all the cutter bars and refit making sure that any variance is down to a minimum.
Additional helpful hints.
Always tighten the clamping screws from the middle out.
Lock the workshop door,?
Tell anyone that might disturb you that you are either out or going to murder anyone that disturbs you until you are done.
If its not working , walk away and come back tomorrow as today was not your day for this, no body is likely to die if it does not get done today
Hi all,
Having finally got my Joiner tables set correctly (thanks for the help on that!), I'm turning my attention to the planer blades.
I read in the manual that these don't need any adjustment, but having had a look at them with a DTI, they are not set properly. So yet again, the manual is no help! (I know its an old machine but the manual really was pretty poor...)
I took all the blades and carriers out and can see that the depth setting grub screws were not all set to the same distance. I would assume that orginally these might be factory set and locktited in?
Is there a good way to set the blade heights? Do it with the blades installed in the block or set the depth grub screws in the carrier, out of the cutter block?
Cheers!
Richard.
|
Re: The Unofficial Survival Guide
Mine is sold, thanks for asking Rob.
Bill Bélanger?
Assuming Bill sold his copy, if anyone is still interested I have a copy I will let go for $100.
Rob
|
Richard,
It sounds like the previous owner confused the planner block for
a moulder block and messed with the wrong screws.
1st step is to number the cutter bars and the slots as the block
would have been dynamically balanced with them in so it is best not to shuffle them around.
Next mark a datum line across the block with a thin permanent
marker an exact distance behind one of the cutter slots. As thin a line as possible
with a DTI and base check that the out feed table is level with
the block, if its not then you will either need to adjust the tables again,
or the thicknesser table would have to be adjusted, not a job I would like to try on an excellent day let alone a good or average one....
The height adjustment screws were not thread locked in just biblically tight in there threads
(like so many other bits on a BF6) which is compounded by the fine dust that accumulates in the threads.
Sorry fat fingered moment while writing
So at this point it is worth thoroughly stripping and cleaning the cutter bars.
Set the DIT to the top dead centre position on the Block using your reference line draw earlier.
at this point it is notable that having two DTI's on based makes this 10 time quicker
Reassemble one bar with all the screws wound flush with the base of the bar and fit with a knife into the block using the DTI set to Zero against the outfeed table bring the two ends of the knife up level to the table,
Note: You will have to play tunes on the clamping screws versus the height adjusters as you do this.
Note: The DTI should be positioned in line with the Height adjustment screws at either end.
At this point only set the knife height using the outer two height adjustment screws.
Once the knife is level bring it approx. 0.003 to 0.005 above the level of the table, this should carry a test piece of timber 3-5mm 1/8"-3/16"as the knife is moved pasted TDC
Lock the clamping screw at one end and move the DTI to the other.
Adjust the inner clamping screws closest to the DTI downwards until you see a movement on the DTI, back it of until you return to your original reading.
Move the DTI to the other end and repeat the process. you may need to repeat this step twice.
Once you are happy that the Knife is level all the way across with the clamping screws tight slacken of all the clamping screw and re tighten from the middle out and check again and then repeat and check again.
Remove the knife and holder and measure the projection of the height adjustment screws, they should be the same within a few thou, if not check the cutter slot for any wear or damage.
Set the outer height adjustment screws to the same level as your 1st blade holder and install into the block.
Check and adjust the height at each end and adjust, then repeat the process for the inner height adjusters as previously stated.
Keep checking as you go around the block, remove all the cutter bars and refit making sure that any variance is down to a minimum.
Additional helpful hints.
Always tighten the clamping screws from the middle out.
Lock the workshop door,?
Tell anyone that might disturb you that you are either out or going to murder anyone that disturbs you until you are done.
If its not working , walk away and come back tomorrow as today was not your day for this, no body is likely to die if it does not get done today
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi all,
Having finally got my Joiner tables set correctly (thanks for the help on that!), I'm turning my attention to the planer blades.
I read in the manual that these don't need any adjustment, but having had a look at them with a DTI, they are not set properly. So yet again, the manual is no help! (I know its an old machine but the manual really was pretty poor...)
I took all the blades and carriers out and can see that the depth setting grub screws were not all set to the same distance. I would assume that orginally these might be factory set and locktited in?
Is there a good way to set the blade heights? Do it with the blades installed in the block or set the depth grub screws in the carrier, out of the cutter block?
Cheers!
Richard.
|
Re: The Unofficial Survival Guide
Assuming Bill sold his copy, if anyone is still interested I have a copy I will let go for $100.
Rob
|
Richard,
It sounds like the previous owner confused the planner block for a moulder block and messed with the wrong screws.
1st step is to number the cutter bars and the slots as the block would have been dynamically balanced with then in so it is best not to shuffle them around.
Next mark a datum line across the block with a thin permanent marker an exact distance behind one of the cutter slots.
with a DTI and base check that the out feed table is level with the block, if its not then you will either need to adjust the tables again,
or the thicknesser table would have to be adjusted, not a job I would like to try on a good or excellent day....
The height adjustment screws were not thread locked in just biblically tight in there threads (like so many other bits on a BF6) which is compounded by the fine dust that accumulates in the threads
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi all,
Having finally got my Joiner tables set correctly (thanks for the help on that!), I'm turning my attention to the planer blades.
I read in the manual that these don't need any adjustment, but having had a look at them with a DTI, they are not set properly. So yet again, the manual is no help! (I know its an old machine but the manual really was pretty poor...)
I took all the blades and carriers out and can see that the depth setting grub screws were not all set to the same distance. I would assume that orginally these might be factory set and locktited in?
Is there a good way to set the blade heights? Do it with the blades installed in the block or set the depth grub screws in the carrier, out of the cutter block?
Cheers!
Richard.
|
Hi all,
Having finally got my Joiner tables set correctly (thanks for the help on that!), I'm turning my attention to the planer blades.
I read in the manual that these don't need any adjustment, but having had a look at them with a DTI, they are not set properly. So yet again, the manual is no help! (I know its an old machine but the manual really was pretty poor...)
I took all the blades and carriers out and can see that the depth setting grub screws were not all set to the same distance. I would assume that orginally these might be factory set and locktited in?
Is there a good way to set the blade heights? Do it with the blades installed in the block or set the depth grub screws in the carrier, out of the cutter block?
Cheers!
Richard.
|
Re: Felder KF700 and Hammer A3-31 For Sale
#forsale
|
Re: Pending delivery, looking for advice
On the pipe method, I used it when I received my KF700SP in early 2010 because I didn’t have space to store a pallet jack.? Worked well, but on the
underside of the machine the pipe rides on the edge of the side panel sheet steel and it chipped off all the powder coat on that edge.? I live in AZ and rust is non-existent so I didn’t do anything about it but if I had known this would happen I would have
looked harder to find a rental narrow pallet jack
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq.
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2021 5:31 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Pending delivery, looking for advice
?
Have some steel pipe?? about 1"? in lengths of about 3 feet and four feet.? The? plumbing supply?? will have them? black iron pope? it's cheap.? This will allow you to move? you machinery? around? rather easily .? It's how I move 1 $ 2 ton machine shop?
machinery?? A johnson bar can be rented.? It's a honkin wood? pry bar with a large metal foot for getting heavy? things up a n inch or two to get? pipe under.
The woodworking machinery? has? rather flimsy? sheet metal cabinets so? leave it on the skid till you get it where you want to go.
?
On 1/9/21 5:55 PM, Troy Holtby wrote:
New to the group. I have a delivery of 4 new machines due in 4 weeks (KF700, FB510, RL160, and Hammer A3-41.?
I am just a hobbist and am new to both sliders and Felder but after much research chose to go this route.?
With the machines due in the next month, is there any prep advice anyone could give to make sure I'm ready when they arrive? (Electrical is done and verified)
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Was the stl file posted? This appears well designed and was on my to do list after obtaining a prusa printer and being impressed with the print strength using petg. ?Thank you for designing and sharing. My thought was to add a bend so the hose connects horizontally for those of us strapping flexible duct to the support arm and not dropping from the ceiling.?
--
Mike B
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Re: AD-41 J/P, Sotps dead in the middle of a planner operation
it plugs into a single phase outlet but it has the variable speed option
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Re: RL-125: What does this do?
David,
Why don’t you just share what you know ?
Got new filter couple of days ago. So I will be getting more intimate with the RL125 than I care.
I almost want to buy a Anemometer to see if there is a diff between new and old filter but I am just so tired of this non ending spending.
Imran
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On Jan 10, 2021, at 7:17 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Imran, you should investigate this. ?
I have not investigated this but from reading the posts here the sensor is measuring the press difference above and below the filter. As filter gets plugged there is higher negative pressure above the filter. When the difference reached the set threshold light comes on.
The set point is given in the manual. You do have to keep in mind what HP motor you have to be sure you are reading the correct number. In my case, I have to interpolate as i have a bigger than std motor.
Imran On Jan 10, 2021, at 6:20 PM, Bill James via < xxrb2010@...> wrote: ?That is my understanding too:
When the pressure difference between the inside and outside is above (or lower, not sure) your setting, the light goes on. I am not sure if this is really working on my RL140 as the light never came up. Now, as a hobbyist the daily manual cleaning when I used it might be overkill.
However, on your picture you have only one pipe for air pressure, it looks like you are missing one. I have two on my RL140.
Bill
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Re: Pending delivery, looking for advice
I also moved my k 700s with 4 or 5? 3/4" black pipes (stolen from wood camps). Also my harbor freight hydraulic car jack just fit under it and was good for moving one end at a time, or getting it off the tilt trailer. Other handy tools are a hand winch attached to the trailer or walls for pulling it around and a long crowbar. But I basically move a lot of heavy stuff with the pipes, crowbar and blocks of wood. ?
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Re: Pending delivery, looking for advice
Have some steel pipe?? about 1"? in lengths of about 3 feet and
four feet.? The? plumbing supply?? will have them? black iron
pope? it's cheap.? This will allow you to move? you machinery?
around? rather easily .? It's how I move 1 $ 2 ton machine shop?
machinery?? A johnson bar can be rented.? It's a honkin wood? pry
bar with a large metal foot for getting heavy? things up a n inch
or two to get? pipe under.
The woodworking machinery? has? rather flimsy? sheet metal
cabinets so? leave it on the skid till you get it where you want
to go.
On 1/9/21 5:55 PM, Troy Holtby wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
New to the group. I have a delivery of 4 new machines due in 4
weeks (KF700, FB510, RL160, and Hammer A3-41.?
I am just a hobbist and am new to both sliders and Felder but
after much research chose to go this route.?
With the machines due in the next month, is there any prep advice
anyone could give to make sure I'm ready when they arrive?
(Electrical is done and verified)
|
Re: RL-125: What does this do?
Imran, you should investigate this. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have not investigated this but from reading the posts here the sensor is measuring the press difference above and below the filter. As filter gets plugged there is higher negative pressure above the filter. When the difference reached the set threshold light comes on.
The set point is given in the manual. You do have to keep in mind what HP motor you have to be sure you are reading the correct number. In my case, I have to interpolate as i have a bigger than std motor.
Imran On Jan 10, 2021, at 6:20 PM, Bill James via < xxrb2010@...> wrote: ?That is my understanding too:
When the pressure difference between the inside and outside is above (or lower, not sure) your setting, the light goes on. I am not sure if this is really working on my RL140 as the light never came up. Now, as a hobbyist the daily manual cleaning when I used it might be overkill.
However, on your picture you have only one pipe for air pressure, it looks like you are missing one. I have two on my RL140.
Bill
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Re: Pending delivery, looking for advice
Troy,
What is your shipping and delivery arrangement with Felder?? I recently had a D963, A951L and FB710 delivered.? I hired a heavy equipment mover with a forklift to pick the machines up from Felder's warehouse in Sacramento and delivered/placed them in my shop, about 140 miles away.? The gentleman charged me $750.? Felder's cost for deliver the machines to my shop was about the same, but I did not want to use lift gate for these because their weights are at the limits of typical lift gates' (previous experiences with lift gates left me highly wary).? I uncrated all of them myself with a narrow-fork pallet jack and some wood blocks.? The FB710 came on its spine (lying down), so I rigged a 2-ton hoist in the attic to erect the machine.? According to my sale rep, the FB710 is the only Felder bandsaw that is shipped and delivered on its spine.? Your FB510 likely will ship up right.? My KF700SP was delivered with lift-gate service and uncrated by myself with a narrow-fork pallet jack.? A long time ago, I picked up my A3-31 using a utility trailer and unload with an engine hoist/cherry picker.? A hydraulic lift table will be useful to install the sliding table on the FK700 if you are by yourself.??
If you have a narrow-fork, 48-inch pallet jack, then uncrating these machines is very easy.? I don't have mobility kit for any of my machine.? I move them using the pallet jack.??
I don't have David Best's survival guide, but his postings on FOG are more than adequate to get you started with commissioning the FK700.? Check out his Flickr's pages!? He has made a bunch of videos about his commission methods. Very helpful.? In my opinion, one should do the commission oneself.? Once you get it, it gets faster and faster with each iteration.? I have: (1) a Starrett 48-inch precision straight edge, (2) a couple dial indicators, (3) a set of feeler gauges, (4) a machinist square.? Later on, I bought Brian Lamb's square and level, but they are luxuries, not necessities IMHO for commissioning the FK700.? If you have 3 dial indicators like David, it makes commission the sliding table easier.? Feeler gauges and a straight edge can get tedious!? Good legs exercise though!
I use both Felder and Tenryu blades.? I buy Tenryu from Amazon or Carbide Processor, which gives a 10% discount if you are a member of sawmillcreek.org forums.??
Electrical plugs for the machines to match your wall outlets.? I keep a few extra lying around.??
SW
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Re: RL-125: What does this do?
I have not investigated this but from reading the posts here the sensor is measuring the press difference above and below the filter. As filter gets plugged there is higher negative pressure above the filter. When the difference reached the set threshold light comes on.
The set point is given in the manual. You do have to keep in mind what HP motor you have to be sure you are reading the correct number. In my case, I have to interpolate as i have a bigger than std motor.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 10, 2021, at 6:20 PM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote: ?That is my understanding too:
When the pressure difference between the inside and outside is above (or lower, not sure) your setting, the light goes on. I am not sure if this is really working on my RL140 as the light never came up. Now, as a hobbyist the daily manual cleaning when I used it might be overkill.
However, on your picture you have only one pipe for air pressure, it looks like you are missing one. I have two on my RL140.
Bill
|
Re: RL-125: What does this do?
That is my understanding too:
When the pressure difference between the inside and outside is above (or lower, not sure) your setting, the light goes on. I am not sure if this is really working on my RL140 as the light never came up. Now, as a hobbyist the daily manual cleaning when I used it might be overkill.
However, on your picture you have only one pipe for air pressure, it looks like you are missing one. I have two on my RL140.
Bill
|
Bill Belanger
Joe Jensen
imran
David P. Best