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I did much the same as Bird Cupps.? I live in Houston where winters are very mild and there is no need real freezing weather.? So my shop is on cinder blocks that are sunk about about 18" sub grade,

Joe, I used cleats made out of aluminium. This is the source that I buy it from Orange Aluminum ( https://www.orangealuminum.com/z-clip-panel-hanging-systems.html ) They have different cleat sizes

My new shop is built on post/beam. I don’t have a lot of machinery—mostly the MM CU300. I reinforced the floor directly under it. I have an engineer friend who speced the floor and

7 or 8 yrs ago, I got to the age where I could tell the number of hrs spent in the shop by how my back felt. I got cheap interlocking floor mats from HF as a stop gap and envisioned putting in a wood

Richard, My sentiments are the same with my overhaul, factory parts if not the original restored, but the spares list is already over the ?700 mark and I need to be realistic about things like belts

I was planning similar, but then realized I would preventing heat from getting to the slab and potentially get movement in the winter, I should have done a frost wall Regards,

This might help you - at least conceptually - on your jointer table alignment challenge: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmc4uK4K David

As the father of a former ballerina, I can clarify one thing: plywood laid directly on concrete does not provide a sprung floor. To get any kind of foot relief, you need to put the plywood on a

Richard a pair of DTI's on magnetic bases would be the ideal tools for setting the outfeed table if you can lay your hands on them. It will show you straight away if there is movement as you are

Thanks Again Paul. I was just hoping to restore it as near as new as possible with original parts but hey ho! I'd like a high speed moulder spindle for router bits but I guess these are more than

As a follow up on flooring solutions, I'm currently working out of a ~750sf detached garage with a concrete slab in good condition, heated with a forced air furnace in one corner. I agree with Jason

Thanks Paul, I have the exploded drawings. I'll have a good look today. It's chilly here in my garage! I don't mind spending days on doing it, as long as I am doing it right! It should only need

My garage shop is monolithic slab on grade with no blueboard and I have experienced no movement that I can tell of. I am in VT and our frost line is a min 4’, I have about 2’ of 3”-6” rocks

I would recommend contacting Hermance for a quote, it is a true Helical head and what I was going to use on my scm before I sold it and bought the

If you are in a freezing environment, a frost protected shallow foundation might be a good choice. In it you trade perimeter frost walls for rigid insulation extending down the exterior face of a

Richard, I am in the process of re commissioning my BF6-26 after along period of less than ideal storage, so I understand the pain you are suffering with prices. I've had to shell out ?51 plus

Richard , Do you have the parts drawing for your machine, that would make things much easier to explain. Out of the factory the planner knives should be level with the saw spindle table at the top

Hi all again, so my infeed and outfeed tables on my BF6 are not coplanar. They appear to be tipping inwards towards the cutter block. A long straight edge shows a clear 1mm gap at the cutter block

Thanks! So the do exist, just need to see if they are worth the $$$$!

I’ll second this recommendation. I have the Huber Advan Tech floor in my basement shop on PT stringers to level the concrete floor. Stringers are on 16” centers with vapor barrier between the