Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
The Leica unit I have is a Leica Lino Ls-1.? Photo attached.? Price in Oz was just under A$300.
I thought I had a photo of the original set up in my old shop that I sent to my nephew Lucky, but as usual google won't let me find it.
On Mon, 23 Nov 2020, 8:17 am Chris Perren, < cperren@...> wrote: Thanks Uncle Clint.? I thought the cost may be too good to work for my needs.? Any photo of your current setup with the Leica unit.? I’m assuming the cost is much more for a quality laser. ?? Thanks,
Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ? Hi Chris
The short answer is...no.
I purchased a similar laser to this one first because it was so cheap. It was good enough to establish the principle but not strong and the line thickened quickly.? Hence the Leica unit.
Ten foot ceilings.... Clearly the closer you mount the laser to the work the better your line will be.? High enough not to interfere with the operator or materials.
I brought my mount down to just over 7 feet.
No photos as this was in my previous shop.
Good morning Uncle Clint
On Mon, 23 Nov 2020, 7:18 am Chris Perren, < cperren@...> wrote: Will this laser produce a crisp line if mounted from a 10 ft ceiling? ? A difference of 6 feet from the saw.? Thanks,
Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ?No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Thanks – I’m going to give it spin… worse case its $50 on a proof of concept. ? Regards, ? Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Brian Lamb Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2020 5:05 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Laser Kerf Line for slider saw? ? In the ad it says1-2mm wide at 1m, and 2-3mm wide at 3m. So I’m guessing about 2mm, and given your blade is about 3mm, that should be fine enough. ? On Nov 22, 2020, at 1:17 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote: ? Will this laser produce a crisp line if mounted from a 10 ft ceiling? ? A difference of 6 feet from the saw.? ?No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
In the ad it says1-2mm wide at 1m, and 2-3mm wide at 3m. So I’m guessing about 2mm, and given your blade is about 3mm, that should be fine enough.
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On Nov 22, 2020, at 1:17 PM, Chris Perren < cperren@...> wrote:
Will this laser produce a crisp line if mounted from a 10 ft ceiling? ? A difference of 6 feet from the saw.? Thanks,
Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ?No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
That would work, just not sure how visible these Chinese lasers are if the shop is bright. Somebody will have to give it a try and see.
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No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
what Ariel posted, is essentially the package that i have but it is red laser and i paid about half. i believe Jason bought one from the same outfit and his was DOA. the mount has not proven out to be stable. not sure if it is the mount, seasonal movement in ceiling or the front bezel that rotates the laser line. i turned it on just now, likely after 2 yrs; yay, it still works.
?
it is mounted 12’ above floor. the line is crisp 1/16” at 4’ and fuzzy 1/8” at 9’ but there is also, what you may call a double line when you get farther. width does not bother me as i align to the edge and i am only looking for a rough idea. i primarily wanted this to help save board width when needed and to get done in a single pass.
?
it is hard to see when all lights are on. for straight line ripping, i did use it with lights on but i could also turn the lights above saw off and still have plenty of light to do that particular work. here are some pics.
?
?
with light off above machine
?
same with lights on
?
imran?
?
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:55 PM, ahazi <ariel.hazi@...> wrote:
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Thanks Uncle Clint. ?I thought the cost may be too good to work for my needs. ?Any photo of your current setup with the Leica unit. ?I’m assuming the cost is much more for a quality laser. ?? Thanks,
Chris Perren 512-415-6951
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On Nov 22, 2020, at 2:36 PM, clinton.freer Freer <clinton.freer@...> wrote:
? Hi Chris
The short answer is...no.
I purchased a similar laser to this one first because it was so cheap. It was good enough to establish the principle but not strong and the line thickened quickly.? Hence the Leica unit.
Ten foot ceilings.... Clearly the closer you mount the laser to the work the better your line will be.? High enough not to interfere with the operator or materials.
I brought my mount down to just over 7 feet.
No photos as this was in my previous shop.
Good morning Uncle Clint
On Mon, 23 Nov 2020, 7:18 am Chris Perren, < cperren@...> wrote: Will this laser produce a crisp line if mounted from a 10 ft ceiling? ? A difference of 6 feet from the saw.? Thanks,
Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ?No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Hi Chris
The short answer is...no.
I purchased a similar laser to this one first because it was so cheap. It was good enough to establish the principle but not strong and the line thickened quickly.? Hence the Leica unit.
Ten foot ceilings.... Clearly the closer you mount the laser to the work the better your line will be.? High enough not to interfere with the operator or materials.
I brought my mount down to just over 7 feet.
No photos as this was in my previous shop.
Good morning Uncle Clint
On Mon, 23 Nov 2020, 7:18 am Chris Perren, < cperren@...> wrote: Will this laser produce a crisp line if mounted from a 10 ft ceiling? ? A difference of 6 feet from the saw.? Thanks,
Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ?No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Will this laser produce a crisp line if mounted from a 10 ft ceiling? ? A difference of 6 feet from the saw.? Thanks,
Chris Perren 512-415-6951
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On Nov 22, 2020, at 11:55 AM, ahazi <ariel.hazi@...> wrote:
?No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
|
Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
How much do you plan on using the shaper and how large of a motor can you get in single phase?? At the expense of that machine, I'd want three phase and budget for a balanced rpc or Phase Perfect, particularly for the shaper.? Dave
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[Edited Message Follows]
Well,
I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider.
I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know.
What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)???
Help...
PK
|
Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
I have a DRO on my spindle moulder (shaper to you guys !) and my thicknesser. ?I wouldn't be without either. ? I don't have a power feed on either but if I had the choice I’d put one on the thicknesser….but only if it referenced the DRO. End of the day, it’s the height that’s critical…not how long it takes to get there. ?IMO. (but I am only a one-man band)
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i would 2nd Mark’s thought on motorized blade elevation without DRO. i have the same setup on K975 and it is tedious if you need to set exact blade height. while cool, i think it should be either manual or motorized with DRO - power drive in felder lingo. i have power drive on dual51 and tapping works fine.
imran? ? I have the power drive on the ad941 j/p and the dumbed down version of it on the k700s.
On the ad941 i had a little bit of a hard time with the “tap” at first but doesn’t take the long to get the hang of of it, i will say that seems a bit more troubling in decimal than mm, i only use mm...
The saw, the dumbed down version as I call it is the version that has no digital readout and is for the blade up and down only - the tilt is the dial indicator, I would not recommend that configuration, when you try to dial in the exact height of the blade it’s hard to get it where you want without trial and error, you would be better off with manual and a dial indicator.
From what I understand the powerdrive is pretty robust and accurate, i did inquire about the cost of replacing the board if it failed and was told it is something like $200 - $300. You should expect a good 10 years on a quality built circuit board these days and really much longer, i work in industrial controls now and we have similar build quality boards in super harsh conditions (talking unconditioned, exposed to elements in India, Africa to name a few but pretty much every location on earth and 24/7 operations) that last 10 years. A lot of boards if not all these days can also be repaired if you know what to look for, use to be that these boards were one offs now mostly a commodity item. I am not at all concerned with powerdrive level electronics...
Digi drive is a different story so someone else with experience would have to comment on that.?
I would think with the saw shaper you would want the power drive for ease of shaper setup but I am not a combo guy for saw shaper....
The k940s that is replacing my k700s will be power drive with all dro, i am an ex professional furniture/millwork maker but now hobby some commission and i think the powerdrive is basically $1500 and full dro $1500 and totally worth it over the long hall. I figure at best I have 25-30yrs left of woodworking so not alot in the scheme of things... ? [Edited Message Follows]
Well, I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider. I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know. What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)??? Help... PK
|
Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
i would 2nd Mark’s thought on motorized blade elevation without DRO. i have the same setup on K975 and it is tedious if you need to set exact blade height. while cool, i think it should be either manual or motorized with DRO - power drive in felder lingo. i have power drive on dual51 and tapping works fine.
imran?
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On Nov 22, 2020, at 1:01 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? I have the power drive on the ad941 j/p and the dumbed down version of it on the k700s.
On the ad941 i had a little bit of a hard time with the “tap” at first but doesn’t take the long to get the hang of of it, i will say that seems a bit more troubling in decimal than mm, i only use mm...
The saw, the dumbed down version as I call it is the version that has no digital readout and is for the blade up and down only - the tilt is the dial indicator, I would not recommend that configuration, when you try to dial in the exact height of the blade it’s hard to get it where you want without trial and error, you would be better off with manual and a dial indicator.
From what I understand the powerdrive is pretty robust and accurate, i did inquire about the cost of replacing the board if it failed and was told it is something like $200 - $300. You should expect a good 10 years on a quality built circuit board these days and really much longer, i work in industrial controls now and we have similar build quality boards in super harsh conditions (talking unconditioned, exposed to elements in India, Africa to name a few but pretty much every location on earth and 24/7 operations) that last 10 years. A lot of boards if not all these days can also be repaired if you know what to look for, use to be that these boards were one offs now mostly a commodity item. I am not at all concerned with powerdrive level electronics...
Digi drive is a different story so someone else with experience would have to comment on that.?
I would think with the saw shaper you would want the power drive for ease of shaper setup but I am not a combo guy for saw shaper....
The k940s that is replacing my k700s will be power drive with all dro, i am an ex professional furniture/millwork maker but now hobby some commission and i think the powerdrive is basically $1500 and full dro $1500 and totally worth it over the long hall. I figure at best I have 25-30yrs left of woodworking so not alot in the scheme of things... On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:12 AM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Well, I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider. I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know. What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)??? Help... PK
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Sure, it may take a week with the holiday, I won't leave you hanging!
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Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
As with all things, I guess its how you plan to use it.?
At our pro shop, we're constantly bouncing back and forth with setups and I know how long manual adjusting and verification takes....and the mistakes that can get made. I am reminded at least every other setup how smart the decision was because we don't make so many mistakes and it's easier to get back to a previous setup. Many times its as simple as taking a photo on the phone to reference upon return. This is super helpful on shaper setups.
All equipment is metric also, for good reason, and further prevents mistakes in measurements and setups. The ability to work in metric also means you are at 0.1mm resolution, which we have found very beneficial. 0.1mm per button tap and its easy to find perfect.
So, from another angle - ask yourself how costly can mistakes be if preventable with digital? And how precise do you need results to be?
I have the power drive on the ad941 j/p and the dumbed down version of it on the k700s.
On the ad941 i had a little bit of a hard time with the “tap” at first but doesn’t take the long to get the hang of of it, i will say that seems a bit more troubling in decimal than mm, i only use mm...
The saw, the dumbed down version as I call it is the version that has no digital readout and is for the blade up and down only - the tilt is the dial indicator, I would not recommend that configuration, when you try to dial in the exact height of the blade it’s hard to get it where you want without trial and error, you would be better off with manual and a dial indicator.
From what I understand the powerdrive is pretty robust and accurate, i did inquire about the cost of replacing the board if it failed and was told it is something like $200 - $300. You should expect a good 10 years on a quality built circuit board these days and really much longer, i work in industrial controls now and we have similar build quality boards in super harsh conditions (talking unconditioned, exposed to elements in India, Africa to name a few but pretty much every location on earth and 24/7 operations) that last 10 years. A lot of boards if not all these days can also be repaired if you know what to look for, use to be that these boards were one offs now mostly a commodity item. I am not at all concerned with powerdrive level electronics...
Digi drive is a different story so someone else with experience would have to comment on that.?
I would think with the saw shaper you would want the power drive for ease of shaper setup but I am not a combo guy for saw shaper....
The k940s that is replacing my k700s will be power drive with all dro, i am an ex professional furniture/millwork maker but now hobby some commission and i think the powerdrive is basically $1500 and full dro $1500 and totally worth it over the long hall. I figure at best I have 25-30yrs left of woodworking so not alot in the scheme of things... ? [Edited Message Follows]
Well, I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider. I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know. What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)??? Help... PK
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Thanks Brett - would you post a picture when you set it up?
Regarding my research? and everyone's recommendations, it looks like building and rigging a dedicated laser line with a 90 degree beam is going to be possible and budgeted about $100.?
But, like Uncle Clint, it appears a package using a pre-made laser level unit may be much easier and more flexible. My current unit doesn't have a pendulum that will lock at angle, but I saw some new ones that have much better features.....I think with the flexibility and cost, this is the best solution. Plus I can still pull it off to hang a picture on the wall. I just ordered a cheap green laser unit rechargeable with USB and magnetic bracket that will arrive later this week - thanks for everyone's help!
I too was looking for a laser solution but like Jason i gave up and went back to my trusty gauge block when it matters, when it doesn’t I just eye ball it...
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:46 AM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?Hi Clinton:
Do you have any pics of your laser set-up? And what are the laser specs? I often hear the notion of lasers not being strong enough to see in good light, or being too wide to be useful. Your laser sounds quite good, in contrast.? ? Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Regarding my research? and everyone's recommendations, it looks like building and rigging a dedicated laser line with a 90 degree beam is going to be possible and budgeted about $100.?
But, like Uncle Clint, it appears a package using a pre-made laser level unit may be much easier and more flexible. My current unit doesn't have a pendulum that will lock at angle, but I saw some new ones that have much better features.....I think with the flexibility and cost, this is the best solution. Plus I can still pull it off to hang a picture on the wall. I just ordered a cheap green laser unit rechargeable with USB and magnetic bracket that will arrive later this week - thanks for everyone's help!
I too was looking for a laser solution but like Jason i gave up and went back to my trusty gauge block when it matters, when it doesn’t I just eye ball it...
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:46 AM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?Hi Clinton:
Do you have any pics of your laser set-up? And what are the laser specs? I often hear the notion of lasers not being strong enough to see in good light, or being too wide to be useful. Your laser sounds quite good, in contrast.? ? Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I too was looking for a laser solution but like Jason i gave up and went back to my trusty gauge block when it matters, when it doesn’t I just eye ball it...
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Show quoted text
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:46 AM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
? Hi Clinton:
Do you have any pics of your laser set-up? And what are the laser specs? I often hear the notion of lasers not being strong enough to see in good light, or being too wide to be useful. Your laser sounds quite good, in contrast.? On 22 Nov 2020, at 2:46 pm, clinton.freer Freer <clinton.freer@...> wrote:
? Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
I have the power drive on the ad941 j/p and the dumbed down version of it on the k700s.
On the ad941 i had a little bit of a hard time with the “tap” at first but doesn’t take the long to get the hang of of it, i will say that seems a bit more troubling in decimal than mm, i only use mm...
The saw, the dumbed down version as I call it is the version that has no digital readout and is for the blade up and down only - the tilt is the dial indicator, I would not recommend that configuration, when you try to dial in the exact height of the blade it’s hard to get it where you want without trial and error, you would be better off with manual and a dial indicator.
From what I understand the powerdrive is pretty robust and accurate, i did inquire about the cost of replacing the board if it failed and was told it is something like $200 - $300. You should expect a good 10 years on a quality built circuit board these days and really much longer, i work in industrial controls now and we have similar build quality boards in super harsh conditions (talking unconditioned, exposed to elements in India, Africa to name a few but pretty much every location on earth and 24/7 operations) that last 10 years. A lot of boards if not all these days can also be repaired if you know what to look for, use to be that these boards were one offs now mostly a commodity item. I am not at all concerned with powerdrive level electronics...
Digi drive is a different story so someone else with experience would have to comment on that.?
I would think with the saw shaper you would want the power drive for ease of shaper setup but I am not a combo guy for saw shaper....
The k940s that is replacing my k700s will be power drive with all dro, i am an ex professional furniture/millwork maker but now hobby some commission and i think the powerdrive is basically $1500 and full dro $1500 and totally worth it over the long hall. I figure at best I have 25-30yrs left of woodworking so not alot in the scheme of things...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:12 AM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Well, I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider. I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know. What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)??? Help... PK
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Hi Clinton:
Do you have any pics of your laser set-up? And what are the laser specs? I often hear the notion of lasers not being strong enough to see in good light, or being too wide to be useful. Your laser sounds quite good, in contrast.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 22 Nov 2020, at 2:46 pm, clinton.freer Freer <clinton.freer@...> wrote:
? Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I tried to rig up a laser on my Panhans. I bought?a relatively high power red laser on ebay, and was intending to mount it to the overarm guard support tube or the dust collection pipe about 7 feet from the saw table.The line ended up being too wide, and not nearly bright enough in a very well lit shop. I also tried to use my broken laser level. once you tilt it too far it gets wonky. I gave up. I've had enough practice sighting down the edge of the slider that I can get remarkably close to a pencil line. It sure would be nice though. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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imran
David Luckensmeyer
Jason Holtz