Re: Hammer C3-31 cuts out issue
#hammer
You upgraded the motor, but what about the overcurrent protection? That will need to be changed/reset for your larger motor or what you describe will continue to happen. What does Felder say needs to be changed?
?
FWIW, I moved from a 5HP Sawstop to the 3KW/4HP CF531 and I noticed the reduced power as well. Not an enormous deal, but noticeable. I understand why if you had a 2.2KW you want to upgrade.
?
HI fellow woodies, I bought new a 2002 C3-31 and mostly use the table saw, (bought a used mini-max 350 for separate jointer planer) and Ive been having an issue where it cuts out when using it for not too long or like earlier when I was
resaving dried spruce 2x4's for spacers and took a while to resew 14 of them as it cut out about 8-9 times. ?it trips the power switch and then I have to wait about two minutes or switch will not stay in on position or it will but will cut out again when pushing
any load through saw. ?one thing to note is Felder sent me a new 3 KW motor that I had to pay an electrician to wire up cause it was way underpowered. ?the 3KW compared to the 2.2 KW motor has more power for sure, but sadly being used to Delta unisaw and powermatic
66 it does not have that kind of power. ?Anyhow, Im not sure if it has anything to do with a safety cutoff or heat buildup, (but, seriously softwood resawing I should be able to run 3-1/2" through with an aggressive rip blade, but I ended up resaving half
and then turning over and finishing the rest and still cut out on me, HELP PLEASE(-; ? ? ?Whilst Im here I thought I'd share a valuable remedy for vibration and cleaner cuts. ?My machine along with power and cutoff issues had a vibration issue and even with
a sharp HI-AT Forrest blade in wouldn't yield clean cuts. ?I was able to mostly remedy this with a blade stabilizer from Forrest that is basically a small diameter blade without the teeth and it has helped a lot. ?cheers!
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Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
Sounds like the only type of blade to use now that you bring it up and I think about the dangers associated with radial arm saws.
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Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
McMaster Carr has a great page on pin wrenches, if only to get
you calibrated as to what kind / size you need:
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
On 11/5/2020 9:16 AM, Joe Jensen wrote:
Got advice from
someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded
bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench??
I¡¯ve attached pics from the other fellow and a pick of the
assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and
then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled
¡°housing¡± shows the whole assembly.
?
Where is a good place
to get a spanner wrench?
?
?
?
Joe?
First nut seems like a dumb design but ya
a looking method. ?
Might be better off with double hook
wrench ?nut?
Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a
spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure
the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other
end.
I find that cleaning off everything first
make working. On job much easier.
I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP
purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP
foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use
out side.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50
years
On Nov
5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...>
wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the
face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part¡ hard to
say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what
does the opposite end look like? The end on the other
side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the
spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is
tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a
nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two
pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and
look closely at that joint.
?
?
Need
some help from my FOG friends.? The first two
pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of
the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel
shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot
around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw
in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place
once the preload on the bearings is correct?
I¡¯ve never seen one before.
The
second two pics are of the other end of the
shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like
a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart
around the bushing.? Seems like that might be
threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a
punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.?
Any advice on how to get this off, or do I
just press the shaft out from the other side?
?
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Hammer C3-31 cuts out issue
#hammer
On 5-11-2020 04:43, pswoodworking@... wrote: HI fellow woodies, I bought new a 2002 C3-31 and mostly use the table saw, (bought a used mini-max 350 for separate jointer planer) and Ive been having an issue where it cuts out when using it for not too long or like earlier when I was resaving dried spruce 2x4's for spacers and took a while to resew 14 of them as it cut out about 8-9 times. ?it trips the power switch and then I have to wait about two minutes or switch will not stay in on position or it will but will cut out again when pushing any load through saw. ?one thing to note is Felder sent me a new 3 KW motor that I had to pay an electrician to wire up cause it was way underpowered. Might seem stupid, but is the saw blade turning in the correct direction? It might be you electrician switched to leads making it spin in the reverse direction and cause bad cutting speed, vibration and heat. Correct direction is the blade spinning clockwise when looked upon from the slider side of the machine. The fact it cuts out after a while and makes it reset makes me think it is a thermal issue. Kind regards, Jonathan
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Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I¡¯ve attached pics from
the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled ¡°housing¡± shows the whole assembly.
?
Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?
?
?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2020 9:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
?
Joe?
First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ?
Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut?
Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end.
I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier.
I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part¡ hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might
be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that
joint.
?
?
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft
opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I¡¯ve never seen one before.
The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the
bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
?
|
Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets expectation.? At one point, I considered restoring an old DP, but due to lack of experience in this arena, dropped the idea.? A few months back, we had a similar discussion on this topic.? The Ellis DP that David B linked to came up along with suggestion to go for a metal mill.? I have wanted to import a Yamamoto radial-arm DP from Japan for a long time, but the logistics prove difficult.? So, now I have a sitting in a crate in my shop.? The specs sheet states 0.0002-inch run out.? I think I will be happy drilling wood with it!? But that is not the main reason for the purchase.? I suppose the point is to consider metal working machines if you want more precision.??
SW
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Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
You should use a negative rake on both radial and cutting alu.? aluminum should use lubricant on saw blades.? If raw aluminum it gums up fast ?I never use that stuff? Make sure aluminum is mechanically clamp or you will probably get stung or worse. Do not use positive rakes period... Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 3, 2020, at 11:08 AM, michael@... wrote:
?Most blades will cut wood, but only very sharp blades will cut well in aluminium (same goes for plastics). I would only cut wood if necessary and keep away from abrasive stuff like MDF.
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Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Joe? First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ? Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut? Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end. I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier. I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part¡ hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that joint.
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I¡¯ve never seen one before. ? The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
|
Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part¡ hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that joint.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I¡¯ve never seen one before. ? The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
|
Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Paul, I bought a Luna MD20BV. I think Luna is a Swedish brand, and the machine seems to only be available in Sweden, Norway and Denmark.
I might add (since we are at the Felder forum), that my first machine was a Hammer drill press. I urge you to stay away from that one. I have a Hammer bandsaw (N4400) and a Hammer planer/jointer (A3-31). The drill press is far from those other tools in quality. I was literally scared that it would fall apart when I used it.
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Micheal
I've been eyeing that Jet machine. Your comments were illuminating and off-putting. My impression was that Jet is a step up from Axminster own brand machines which of themselves I have found to be somewhat variable in quality
So what make is the machinist drill press you bought?
--
Paul Mc Cann
|
Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
My mitutoyo absolute? calipers did the same damn thing.?? They
have changed the design since.? I sent mine back? I?? think the
repair was $60.00? or there abouts.
On 11/4/20 6:50 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
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Whoops, the 2820 is the new one i saw - duh, well now you have my
thoughts on the 2800
|
Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft
opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I¡¯ve never seen one before.
?
The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the
bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
|
Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
I have a couple of 10¡± N.F. blades and all have 60 teeth or more.
It¡¯s the high tooth count more than the grind or rake that make them awful at ripping.
|
Hammer C3-31 cuts out issue
#hammer
HI fellow woodies, I bought new a 2002 C3-31 and mostly use the table saw, (bought a used mini-max 350 for separate jointer planer) and Ive been having an issue where it cuts out when using it for not too long or like earlier when I was resaving dried spruce 2x4's for spacers and took a while to resew 14 of them as it cut out about 8-9 times. ?it trips the power switch and then I have to wait about two minutes or switch will not stay in on position or it will but will cut out again when pushing any load through saw. ?one thing to note is Felder sent me a new 3 KW motor that I had to pay an electrician to wire up cause it was way underpowered. ?the 3KW compared to the 2.2 KW motor has more power for sure, but sadly being used to Delta unisaw and powermatic 66 it does not have that kind of power. ?Anyhow, Im not sure if it has anything to do with a safety cutoff or heat buildup, (but, seriously softwood resawing I should be able to run 3-1/2" through with an aggressive rip blade, but I ended up resaving half and then turning over and finishing the rest and still cut out on me, HELP PLEASE(-; ? ? ?Whilst Im here I thought I'd share a valuable remedy for vibration and cleaner cuts. ?My machine along with power and cutoff issues had a vibration issue and even with a sharp HI-AT Forrest blade in wouldn't yield clean cuts. ?I was able to mostly remedy this with a blade stabilizer from Forrest that is basically a small diameter blade without the teeth and it has helped a lot. ?cheers!
|
Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
I had a similar drill press. It's from Axminster and it looks very much like a Powermatic, but I have no clue if it's the same machine or not. I wasn't happy with it. It was unbalanced, had runout and the variable gear thingy sounded like crap. A year ago I bought a machinist drill press, and I couldn't be happier. (there is probably a better word than "machinist drill press", but I don't have it) This categorisation might not be universal, but from my amateur point of view there seems to be some distinct differences between wood working drill presses and machinist drill presses. The machinist ones tend to have better tolerances, i.e. more true, less vibrations, less runout. Woodworking drill presses tend to have more quill movement, which is needed for longer drills. You also won't have to adjust the table height as often when the quill can move longer. Machinist drill presses are usually meant for metal work, so the rpm tends to be lower. After much searching I found one that checked most of the boxes: - didn't cost me an arm and a leg - variable speed without having to manually switch over the rubber things (sorry, don't know the word for this) - reasonable quill movement ( I have 85 mm) - Not too low max rpm. I wish mine could go higher for very small drills, but 1900 rpm cover most of what I need? (edit: corrected rpm) My new machine is not a high end machine (the Axminster was about 1200 EUR, the new one was about 1600 EUR), but the difference is massive. I actually still put on a smile when I use the new one. It runs soo smooth and cuts much better. Edit: -------- After finding the link, I now realise that the brand was a Jet. Maybe Jet is an OEM of Powermatic, or a rip-off, I don't know. Also, I now remember that the depth stop had quite some flex. I never trusted it. ---------- The old and the new is shown on the pictures below.  
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
I have a 2800.? It's been disappointing since the day I bought
it.? The variable speed mechanism shakes like an unbalanced
washing machine when you set it towards the bottom the range.? I
called Powermatic about the issues and they were worthless.? I
should have returned it.? Unless I happen into some old iron, I
have no plans to ever purchase another piece of Powermatic
equipment.
The web page for the 2820 looks beautiful, but I'm not feeling
good enough about modern Powermatic equipment to want to give them
more of my money, ever.
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
On 11/4/2020 3:50 PM, Mark Kessler
wrote:
Whoops, the 2820 is the new one i saw - duh, well now you have my
thoughts on the 2800
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Felder g330 edgebander
I don't have that machine, but in that situation I usually cut a blank to width that will make all the fronts for a cabinet bank. Edge band the sides, then rip it apart and band the top and bottom. Make sense?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
I'm guessing your non-ferrous blade has a negative rake angle on the teeth, so it's going to be less aggressive than a normal crosscut blade for wood. I'm thinking it would not rip very well at all and most likely build up pitch quickly.
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
#2 is about 3200 and later model 3 is about 3600.? The #3 has a little slower auto feed rate ( each has three feeds ) which is nicer for boring steel.? Key is to find one with good bearings.? The ABEC 9 bearings have something like a 200 lb preload so they
are expensive and difficult to replace.? I got lucky with this one.? Machines and tooling including several Albrecht chucks for $900.? I found out the two Singer sewing lamps on it are sought after by designers and? are worth about what I paid by themselves.?
Too cool to sell though.? Dave
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OMG, what does the Moore weigh? Would win the vibration damping contest for certain!
On Wed, Nov 4, 2020 at 4:57 PM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
For an off the wall choice, here is my Moore #2.? Won't do milling but will do boring, drilling and tapping with fast changeover.? Two ranges of speed from 0-2400 rpm.? Accuracy on the X and Y is in tenths which is better than the operator.? Dave
That has been out for awhile, there is a gearhead version I just recently saw that seems to be new.?
Anyways we have the 2820 in the R&D lab that I work in, it¡¯s ok but the variable speed switch went bad within the first couple months (which they replaced promptly, i was impressed with the service) and had terrible runout, I replaced the chuck with like
a $500 one that we had in our tool crib and it has minimal run out now so I am assuming it was the original chuck, haven¡¯t have any issues since then but we don¡¯t use it a lot and most of the drilling is around 1/4¡± in steel and aluminum.
On Nov 4, 2020, at 6:24 PM, G. Lane <lane247@...> wrote:
?Any thoughts on this drill press would be appreciated.? I'm in the market for a drill press and this one is appealing to me but appears to be brand? new model , so not much info on it yet. ?? Thanks
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Jonathan Martens
Joe Jensen
Jason Holtz