Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
I used NFM carbide tipped blades meant for aluminum?? for years
and years.? It is not going to go as fast as a rip blade when
ripping and can produce burning because of the small gullet and
tooth geometry but for cross cuts they were great.
On 11/3/20 11:34 AM, Fred Linthicum via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I usually cut aluminum with a radial arm saw mounted to a Tiger
Stop-like measuring system.? I have a project where I need to
cross-cut a lot of Alder boards.? Any downside to using the same
non-ferrous blade to cut this wood?? The 14" blade has 150 teeth
and we need need clean, finish cuts.
Thanks in
advance,?
Fred
|
Re: Tannewitz Brake Questions
Great idea Brian, love it
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Brian Lamb
Sent: Tuesday, November 3, 2020 1:01 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Brake Questions
?
Go to a trailer supply house, they have all sorts of solenoid actuated brakes, electric and hydraulic.
?
?
The solenoid that operated the hydraulic master cylinder was a Cutler Hammer.? I found that Cutler Hammer makes solenoids that may work.? The cheapest
one only pulls 0.55lbs and its $699 cheapest online.? Cutler Hammer makes them up to 12.4 lbs and that one is $1350.
When I worked in the wire biz we had drawing machines with 50 hp motors with nice disc brakes I expect pretty pricy
My Oliver is like Dave K?
You might look at Centauro new machines or Zimerman see how they handle it.
My best advice is don’t be on the side of the machine when it’s running.
Designing and building for 50 years
I love the idea of the upper brake. I called and spoke with Tannewitz and they said the hydraulic system was nothing but a headache. ?He also said they
used a bunch of different setups over the years.? My saw is direct drive with the drum integrated in the wheel but no brake hardware for that drum.? The upper wheel has the integrated drum and the brakes were all there.? Even the rear plate that holds the
drum brakes and wheel cylinder is from a car. ?Apparently the brake parts are all AMC for a Jeep.? ?
Near as I can tell this is how it worked.
With power off, a spring pulled on the master cylinder shaft to keep the brakes applied.
Power on the machine and a large electrical solenoid would energize and take pressure off the master cylinder.
·???????
When pressing the stop button the solenoid would lose power and the brakes would be applied.
·???????
Press the foot brake lever, which pulls a cable which pulls a lever to press the stop button, now acts like you press stop.
·???????
If a blade is too loose a microswitch opens and activates the stop circuit.
·???????
If a blade brakes, the tension drops opening a different microswitch activating the stop circuit
On my saw the hydraulic system was dry with no fluid, (abandoned) and a modern electronic brake setup like Tannewitz uses today was fitted.? While I
would like to have the upper brake the large electrical solenoid for the master cylinder looks to be burned up.? It might be possible to find a replacement which would let me have the brake on the upper wheel.? I will see but not hopeful.
Joe, I believe the purpose of the upper brake was to only activate when tension was released quickly as when the blade breaks.? The top wheel locks immediately to keep the blade from chewing up everything.?
The bottom brake activates manually with a foot pedal on my Oliver so your Tanny might be different.? The upper safety brake was fairly standard on large old saws.? Dave
I’ve started disassembly and the brakes apparently changed a lot over the years . On my machine both wheels have brake drums integrated but the lower
had no brakes.? There is a heavy steel plate that bolts to the motor that has one broken off bolt and a slot crudely cut with a torch.? It’s not clear that drum brakes ever mounted to that plate.? I will remove the upper brakes and the master cylinder.
What ever is the simplistic and cheapest I would avoid using a brake Justin case of emergency.
In larger machines bigger hp I would use disc brakes .
My oliver has an over ride that cuts the motor if the blade brakes than using the manual rub brake.
My best advise is don’t stand to the right of the blade so your not buy when blade breaks.
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.?
But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??
I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?
?
|
If it weren't so funny? it'd be disgusting.
On 11/2/20 2:00 PM, Marlowe McGraw
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Well, danger may be overstating things,? but it is a definite
concern...
I recently cleaned my coffeemaker and brewed some coffee.? ?I take
both cream and sugar.? I like the sugar in the raw.??
To avoid attracting rodents, I keep anything foodlike in the
refrigerator.? ?I also keep instant glues and hide glue in there.
I haven't used my hide glue in a while (still finishing the shop
build...),? but must say that a sandwich bag of hide glue looks
remarkably like sugar in the raw...
Needless to say,? my coffee wasn't any sweeter with hide glue.?
Seems I'm not suffering any I'll effects yet.? If you're old
enough to remember Mr. Ed, there may be a reboot in the works
soon...
Marlowe McGraw?
|
Re: Tannewitz Brake Questions
Go to a trailer supply house, they have all sorts of solenoid actuated brakes, electric and hydraulic.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The solenoid that operated the hydraulic master cylinder was a Cutler Hammer.? I found that Cutler Hammer makes solenoids that may work.? The cheapest one only pulls 0.55lbs and its $699 cheapest online.? Cutler Hammer makes them up to 12.4 lbs and that one is $1350. ? ? When I worked in the wire biz we had drawing machines with 50 hp motors with nice disc brakes I expect pretty pricy My Oliver is like Dave K? You might look at Centauro new machines or Zimerman see how they handle it. My best advice is don’t be on the side of the machine when it’s running. Designing and building for 50 years ?? I love the idea of the upper brake. I called and spoke with Tannewitz and they said the hydraulic system was nothing but a headache. ?He also said they used a bunch of different setups over the years.? My saw is direct drive with the drum integrated in the wheel but no brake hardware for that drum.? The upper wheel has the integrated drum and the brakes were all there.? Even the rear plate that holds the drum brakes and wheel cylinder is from a car. ?Apparently the brake parts are all AMC for a Jeep.? ? ? Near as I can tell this is how it worked. With power off, a spring pulled on the master cylinder shaft to keep the brakes applied. Power on the machine and a large electrical solenoid would energize and take pressure off the master cylinder. Stopping - When pressing the stop button the solenoid would lose power and the brakes would be applied.
- Press the foot brake lever, which pulls a cable which pulls a lever to press the stop button, now acts like you press stop.
- If a blade is too loose a microswitch opens and activates the stop circuit.
- If a blade brakes, the tension drops opening a different microswitch activating the stop circuit
? On my saw the hydraulic system was dry with no fluid, (abandoned) and a modern electronic brake setup like Tannewitz uses today was fitted.? While I would like to have the upper brake the large electrical solenoid for the master cylinder looks to be burned up.? It might be possible to find a replacement which would let me have the brake on the upper wheel.? I will see but not hopeful. ? ? ? Joe, I believe the purpose of the upper brake was to only activate when tension was released quickly as when the blade breaks.? The top wheel locks immediately to keep the blade from chewing up everything.? The bottom brake activates manually with a foot pedal on my Oliver so your Tanny might be different.? The upper safety brake was fairly standard on large old saws.? Dave
I’ve started disassembly and the brakes apparently changed a lot over the years . On my machine both wheels have brake drums integrated but the lower had no brakes.? There is a heavy steel plate that bolts to the motor that has one broken off bolt and a slot crudely cut with a torch.? It’s not clear that drum brakes ever mounted to that plate.? I will remove the upper brakes and the master cylinder. ? ? What ever is the simplistic and cheapest I would avoid using a brake Justin case of emergency. In larger machines bigger hp I would use disc brakes . My oliver has an over ride that cuts the motor if the blade brakes than using the manual rub brake. My best advise is don’t stand to the right of the blade so your not buy when blade breaks. martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell Designing and building for 50 years ?My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.? But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??
I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?
|
Better a horseman than getting typecast as one of the three stooges...
On Mon, Nov 2, 2020, 1:19 PM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Allan " Rocky " Lane.? After a million B westerns, he is best known as a horse ( and he didn't really like horses all that much ).? Dave
Thanks Dave for remembering that fine example of 60's television...
Marlowe?
On Mon, Nov 2, 2020, 1:05 PM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Oh Wilbur!? Stay healthy, the Dr's office is no place to go now.? Dave
Well, danger may be overstating things,? but it is a definite concern...
I recently cleaned my coffeemaker and brewed some coffee.? ?I take both cream and sugar.? I like the sugar in the raw.??
To avoid attracting rodents, I keep anything foodlike in the refrigerator.? ?I also keep instant glues and hide glue in there.
I haven't used my hide glue in a while (still finishing the shop build...),? but must say that a sandwich bag of hide glue looks remarkably like sugar in the raw...
Needless to say,? my coffee wasn't any sweeter with hide glue.? Seems I'm not suffering any I'll effects yet.? If you're old enough to remember Mr. Ed, there may be a reboot in the works soon...
Marlowe McGraw?
|
Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
Most blades will cut wood, but only very sharp blades will cut well in aluminium (same goes for plastics). I would only cut wood if necessary and keep away from abrasive stuff like MDF.
|
Re: Tannewitz Brake Questions
The solenoid that operated the hydraulic master cylinder was a Cutler Hammer.? I found that Cutler Hammer makes solenoids that may work.? The cheapest
one only pulls 0.55lbs and its $699 cheapest online.? Cutler Hammer makes them up to 12.4 lbs and that one is $1350.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 6:57 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Brake Questions
?
When I worked in the wire biz we had drawing machines with 50 hp motors with nice disc brakes I expect pretty pricy
My Oliver is like Dave K?
You might look at Centauro new machines or Zimerman see how they handle it.
My best advice is don’t be on the side of the machine when it’s running.
Designing and building for 50 years
?
I love the idea of the upper brake. I called and spoke with Tannewitz and they said the hydraulic system was nothing but a headache. ?He also said they
used a bunch of different setups over the years.? My saw is direct drive with the drum integrated in the wheel but no brake hardware for that drum.? The upper wheel has the integrated drum and the brakes were all there.? Even the rear plate that holds the
drum brakes and wheel cylinder is from a car. ?Apparently the brake parts are all AMC for a Jeep.? ?
?
Near as I can tell this is how it worked.
With power off, a spring pulled on the master cylinder shaft to keep the brakes applied.
Power on the machine and a large electrical solenoid would energize and take pressure off the master cylinder.
Stopping
-
When pressing the stop button the solenoid would lose power and the brakes would be applied.
-
Press the foot brake lever, which pulls a cable which pulls a lever to press the stop button, now acts like you press stop.
-
If a blade is too loose a microswitch opens and activates the stop circuit.
-
If a blade brakes, the tension drops opening a different microswitch activating the stop circuit
?
On my saw the hydraulic system was dry with no fluid, (abandoned) and a modern electronic brake setup like Tannewitz uses today was fitted.? While I
would like to have the upper brake the large electrical solenoid for the master cylinder looks to be burned up.? It might be possible to find a replacement which would let me have the brake on the upper wheel.? I will see but not hopeful.
?
?
?
Joe, I believe the purpose of the upper brake was to only activate when tension was released quickly as when the blade breaks.? The top wheel locks immediately to keep the blade from chewing up
everything.? The bottom brake activates manually with a foot pedal on my Oliver so your Tanny might be different.? The upper safety brake was fairly standard on large old saws.? Dave
I’ve started disassembly and the brakes apparently changed a lot over the years . On my machine both wheels have brake drums integrated but the lower
had no brakes.? There is a heavy steel plate that bolts to the motor that has one broken off bolt and a slot crudely cut with a torch.? It’s not clear that drum brakes ever mounted to that plate.? I will remove the upper brakes and the master cylinder.
?
?
What ever is the simplistic and cheapest I would avoid using a brake Justin case of emergency.
In larger machines bigger hp I would use disc brakes .
My oliver has an over ride that cuts the motor if the blade brakes than using the manual rub brake.
My best advise is don’t stand to the right of the blade so your not buy when blade breaks.
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.?
But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??
I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?
|
Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
No problem a non-ferrous blade lives on my chop saw and works great on most wood parts.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I usually cut aluminum with a radial arm saw mounted to a Tiger Stop-like measuring system.? I have a project where I need to cross-cut a lot of Alder boards.? Any downside to using the same non-ferrous blade to cut this wood?? The 14" blade has 150 teeth and we need need clean, finish cuts. Thanks in advance,? Fred
|
Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
I usually cut aluminum with a radial arm saw mounted to a Tiger Stop-like measuring system.? I have a project where I need to cross-cut a lot of Alder boards.? Any downside to using the same non-ferrous blade to cut this wood?? The 14" blade has 150 teeth and we need need clean, finish cuts. Thanks in advance,? Fred
|
Re: Can anyone recommend a better flexible hose for my Felder Stuff?
#dustcollection
I have the WOODSTOCK clear wire reinforced hoses.? Very? heavy?
stuff?
??
Grizzly? sells it too.
On 11/3/20 9:56 AM, Mike wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Jim,
I used dryer hose from Canadian Tire as a replacement a couple of
years ago.
Mike
|
Re: Felder F38 feeder repair
It looks like circlips hold the wheel shaft into the swing arm. You might have to undo those and slide the new sprockets into the chain loop and then slide it in as an assembly.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Here's two pictures.? The F38 is about 10 years old,? Two of the drive gears cracked into several pieces when I turned the feeder on without a load
The drive gear is held in place with 2 snap rings.? The driven or wheel gear looks like it's held in place by the wheel shaft itself.? I will upload a diagram that Felder sent to the photos directory
I didn't get a chance today to remove the chain.
<F38.jpg><F38 internal.jpg>
|
Re: Can anyone recommend a better flexible hose for my Felder Stuff?
#dustcollection
Hi Jim,
I used dryer hose from Canadian Tire as a replacement a couple of years ago.
Mike
|
Thanks, Collin I will look into that right away. ?I guess I should look at/ change the belt while I am there?
Mike
|
Re: Is there a list of build options with (rough) prices for KF 700?
From what I understand for the US pricing is that Felder has pre built configuration with an associated price. If you pick and choose your own option without hitting those pre built configuration, you might end up with a higher price for less options.
Just ask your sales rep what are the default configurations for US shipping for your model. Then add what it missing and you want but do not delete anything.
Bill
|
It sounds like the urethane covered drive wheel is starting to disintegrate, change both low and high speed wheels straight away, quite cheap and saves possible damage to elect motor shaft. ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
|
|
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
|
|
Mike if it is urethane covered drive wheels, it is an easy job to change if you access through inspection hatch on shaper side and then remove access hatch into planer/thicknesser cabinet. Colin ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
|
|
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
|
|
Hi Mike, It sounds like the urethane covered drive wheel is starting to disintegrate, change both low and high speed wheels straight away, quite cheap and saves possible damage to elect motor shaft. Colin ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
|
|
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
|
|
Hello All,?
I have often thought about the days of the felder group on yahoo and felder discussions on badger pond. ?I am happy to have found this group.
I have a CF741P (2003) and just recently I have noticed when I engage the planer in the course (or down position) the planer makes a noise like something is loose. ?When I engage the planer in the fine or (up position) it doe not make any noise other than the usual cutter-head sound.
The machine does vibrate slightly with the noise which makes me think the drive belt is wore out. ?Any advice on where to start would be great appreciated.
Thanks
Mike Laing?
|
Re: Is there a list of build options with (rough) prices for KF 700?
I bought my KF700 from a Felder exhibition, so I couldn't select any internal options. On the other hand I got a really good price for an almost unused machine.?I cannot help you with prices, but I can recommend some options =)
- Mine came without dado preparations. I miss this option.
- Overhead guard is really great to have, but there are some after market options if you decide later
- You do not want this fine machine without the outrigger
- I bought the Aigner router fence at a later time. It's really great for increasing security.
- If you buy the Aigner fence you will need a table extension. The Aigner fence relies on support from beneath.
- I would really want the remote control on the slider. It can be a pita to reach the on/off button when you have to reach/crawl under sheet goods. The remote cannot be mounted afterwards, I'm told.
Even without the options I miss, I'm so happy with this machine. I smile every time I make a cut.
Good luck!
//Michael
|
Re: Felder F38 feeder repair
I just uploaded the F38 parts list to files/Manuals & Drawings/f38.pdf.
A pictorial of the "transmission" is on page 15.? By the way, there are two page 15's that are the same.
|
Joe Jensen