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Re: Felder F38 feeder repair

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The older F38 were sourced from Steff.? I don't know when they changed to Comatic .? Dave


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of dyclist@... <dyclist@...>
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 12:07 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder F38 feeder repair
?
Imran,

I have an exploded diagram from Felder.? It helps, but since I'm not that familiar with how machinery is built, I'm not sure how to proceed,

Joe,

I sent a message to Comatic for help, and they have not responded.? Maybe I'll email them too.??

Thanks,

? ?Dennis


Re: Felder F38 feeder repair

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

can you share the diagrams? if it is a hard copy you can take pics of pages. lots of smart folks here (not me) who can provide insight.

imran

On Nov 2, 2020, at 12:07 PM, dyclist@... wrote:

?Imran,

I have an exploded diagram from Felder.? It helps, but since I'm not that familiar with how machinery is built, I'm not sure how to proceed,

Joe,

I sent a message to Comatic for help, and they have not responded.? Maybe I'll email them too.??

Thanks,

? ?Dennis


Re: Freeborn cope and pattern center groover option

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Freeborn used to make a 5.5mm cutter for undersized ply.? Whatever you choose, consider the 5/8 recess.? It gives extra glue area and stabilizes the cope and stick and leaves enough room for 1/4" od tubing to center the panel and snug it with still giving room for expansion if needed.? I cut 1" pieces and fit panels cut at 7/16 shy.? Dave


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io <vnh84@...>
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 10:50 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] Freeborn cope and pattern center groover option
?
Hello all,
I want to buy a set of Freeborn Cope and Pattern cutters for a cabinet project.? Freeborn gives you the option of choosing the center groover's width and depth of cut.? The standard is 1/4" x 3/8".? I routine purchase 1/4-inch plywood, but none of it ever is truly 1/4-inch in thickness.? The thickness varies from batch to batch, so I always adjust my groove cutter or dado set to match the material.? For this Freeborn set, I want to ask which center groover option people recommend? Also, beside Whitehill in the UK, where else are top-hat bushings available for purchase to adapt the Freeborn cutters from 1 1/4 inch bore to a 30mm spindle on a KF700SP?? The archive mentions Paul Jordan's company, but I can't find it using the common search engines.??

I am looking at PC-10-060, PC-10-050, or PC-10-070.??

Thanks!

SW


Re: Felder F38 feeder repair

 

Imran,

I have an exploded diagram from Felder.? It helps, but since I'm not that familiar with how machinery is built, I'm not sure how to proceed,

Joe,

I sent a message to Comatic for help, and they have not responded.? Maybe I'll email them too.??

Thanks,

? ?Dennis


Re: Freeborn cope and pattern center groover option

 

Or use Freeborn back?cutter.



James


On Mon, Nov 2, 2020 at 11:27 AM david@... via <david=[email protected]> wrote:
I use the ?¡± groover in the Freeborn stack, and if using a flat panel, I will use ?¡± material (MDF for paint grade) and profile the back edge of the panel to fit the groove precisely.? For that profiling operation I use a Whitehill panel raising cutter so the transition from ? to ? has a nice scallop shape.?




David Best




On Nov 2, 2020, at 7:50 AM, Shinta Wakahisa via <vnh84=[email protected]> wrote:

?Hello all,
I want to buy a set of Freeborn Cope and Pattern cutters for a cabinet project.? Freeborn gives you the option of choosing the center groover's width and depth of cut.? The standard is 1/4" x 3/8".? I routine purchase 1/4-inch plywood, but none of it ever is truly 1/4-inch in thickness.? The thickness varies from batch to batch, so I always adjust my groove cutter or dado set to match the material.? For this Freeborn set, I want to ask which center groover option people recommend? Also, beside Whitehill in the UK, where else are top-hat bushings available for purchase to adapt the Freeborn cutters from 1 1/4 inch bore to a 30mm spindle on a KF700SP?? The archive mentions Paul Jordan's company, but I can't find it using the common search engines.??

I am looking at PC-10-060, PC-10-050, or PC-10-070.??

Thanks!

SW







Re: Freeborn cope and pattern center groover option

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I use the ?¡± groover in the Freeborn stack, and if using a flat panel, I will use ?¡± material (MDF for paint grade) and profile the back edge of the panel to fit the groove precisely. ?For that profiling operation I use a Whitehill panel raising cutter so the transition from ? to ? has a nice scallop shape.?




David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/


On Nov 2, 2020, at 7:50 AM, Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io <vnh84@...> wrote:

?Hello all,
I want to buy a set of Freeborn Cope and Pattern cutters for a cabinet project.? Freeborn gives you the option of choosing the center groover's width and depth of cut.? The standard is 1/4" x 3/8".? I routine purchase 1/4-inch plywood, but none of it ever is truly 1/4-inch in thickness.? The thickness varies from batch to batch, so I always adjust my groove cutter or dado set to match the material.? For this Freeborn set, I want to ask which center groover option people recommend? Also, beside Whitehill in the UK, where else are top-hat bushings available for purchase to adapt the Freeborn cutters from 1 1/4 inch bore to a 30mm spindle on a KF700SP?? The archive mentions Paul Jordan's company, but I can't find it using the common search engines.??

I am looking at PC-10-060, PC-10-050, or PC-10-070.??

Thanks!

SW







Re: Freeborn cope and pattern center groover option

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

i have this bushing but have not used it yet. also the chicago woodworking school sale included two of these. not sure if they are sold or not,


imran

On Nov 2, 2020, at 10:50 AM, Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io <vnh84@...> wrote:

?Hello all,
I want to buy a set of Freeborn Cope and Pattern cutters for a cabinet project.? Freeborn gives you the option of choosing the center groover's width and depth of cut.? The standard is 1/4" x 3/8".? I routine purchase 1/4-inch plywood, but none of it ever is truly 1/4-inch in thickness.? The thickness varies from batch to batch, so I always adjust my groove cutter or dado set to match the material.? For this Freeborn set, I want to ask which center groover option people recommend? Also, beside Whitehill in the UK, where else are top-hat bushings available for purchase to adapt the Freeborn cutters from 1 1/4 inch bore to a 30mm spindle on a KF700SP?? The archive mentions Paul Jordan's company, but I can't find it using the common search engines.??

I am looking at PC-10-060, PC-10-050, or PC-10-070.??

Thanks!

SW


Re: separate jointer planer

 

Thanks for all the feedback,

I am located in the US (southeast), I was using the Felder terms as I was discussing Felder machines in my messages. I am not accustomed to the "thickness planer" term, but I thought it was the correct term when talking about Felder machines. So yes I am talking about "Jointer" :).

@David, thanks for your offer on Plan51 DM. I prefer to stay in the 900 series for my hobby shop from a price point perspective assuming new and I do not need the higher HP, or nicer options available on Format machines. I am looking for ease of use, precise machines when tuned, not for speed of use/productivity.

Looks like only the A950 or SCM Nova F520 jointer?is what I am looking for in case I want to replace my A3-31 with something more robust, longer, and separate.

Bill


Re: separate jointer planer

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Bill,

that is befuddling and i did not expect single purpose jointers to carryover the hinge mechanism. i guess if is cheaper for felder to do so instead of redesign. David has clarified the options, so that is good to know.

imran

On Nov 2, 2020, at 10:07 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:

?

[Edited Message Follows]

Imran,

I based my thought about the A941 and A951 after I reviewed the manual posted in the File section. The manual shows hinges for both A and AD models or I miss read the manual.

Maybe someone with an A model can confirm or not.

Thanks,

Bill


Re: Freeborn cope and pattern center groover option

 

I believe you can get top hat bushings from Rangate.
Dave Davies

On Mon, Nov 2, 2020 at 9:50 AM Shinta Wakahisa via <vnh84=[email protected]> wrote:
Hello all,
I want to buy a set of Freeborn Cope and Pattern cutters for a cabinet project.? Freeborn gives you the option of choosing the center groover's width and depth of cut.? The standard is 1/4" x 3/8".? I routine purchase 1/4-inch plywood, but none of it ever is truly 1/4-inch in thickness.? The thickness varies from batch to batch, so I always adjust my groove cutter or dado set to match the material.? For this Freeborn set, I want to ask which center groover option people recommend? Also, beside Whitehill in the UK, where else are top-hat bushings available for purchase to adapt the Freeborn cutters from 1 1/4 inch bore to a 30mm spindle on a KF700SP?? The archive mentions Paul Jordan's company, but I can't find it using the common search engines.??

I am looking at PC-10-060, PC-10-050, or PC-10-070.??

Thanks!

SW



--
Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868


Freeborn cope and pattern center groover option

 

Hello all,
I want to buy a set of Freeborn Cope and Pattern cutters for a cabinet project.? Freeborn gives you the option of choosing the center groover's width and depth of cut.? The standard is 1/4" x 3/8".? I routine purchase 1/4-inch plywood, but none of it ever is truly 1/4-inch in thickness.? The thickness varies from batch to batch, so I always adjust my groove cutter or dado set to match the material.? For this Freeborn set, I want to ask which center groover option people recommend? Also, beside Whitehill in the UK, where else are top-hat bushings available for purchase to adapt the Freeborn cutters from 1 1/4 inch bore to a 30mm spindle on a KF700SP?? The archive mentions Paul Jordan's company, but I can't find it using the common search engines.??

I am looking at PC-10-060, PC-10-050, or PC-10-070.??

Thanks!

SW


Re: Tannewitz Brake Questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Joe, I believe the purpose of the upper brake was to only activate when tension was released quickly as when the blade breaks.? The top wheel locks immediately to keep the blade from chewing up everything.? The bottom brake activates manually with a foot pedal on my Oliver so your Tanny might be different.? The upper safety brake was fairly standard on large old saws.? Dave


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 10:30 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Brake Questions
?

I¡¯ve started disassembly and the brakes apparently changed a lot over the years . On my machine both wheels have brake drums integrated but the lower had no brakes.? There is a heavy steel plate that bolts to the motor that has one broken off bolt and a slot crudely cut with a torch.? It¡¯s not clear that drum brakes ever mounted to that plate.? I will remove the upper brakes and the master cylinder.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2020 4:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Brake Questions

?

What ever is the simplistic and cheapest I would avoid using a brake Justin case of emergency.

In larger machines bigger hp I would use disc brakes .

My oliver has an over ride that cuts the motor if the blade brakes than using the manual rub brake.

My best advise is don¡¯t stand to the right of the blade so your not buy when blade breaks.

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years



On Oct 12, 2020, at 11:26 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:

?My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.? But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??

I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?


Re: separate jointer planer

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Felder makes only two stand alone jointers that do not have tables that flip up. ?They are the A951L and the Format-4 Plan 51L. ? Both machines employ the cam elevation system on the outfeed table, The A951L uses the cam system on the infeed table, and the Plan 51L has a completely unique infeed table elevation design. ?All the other jointers in the Felder line have tables that are hinged at the back and flip up - even the ones without the planer underneath. ? The Plan 51L infeed table can be quickly adjusted to produce a concave, flat or convex result, the A951L infeed table alignment is static. ??I did a design analysis of the Plan 51L for another FOG member and if you DM me, I¡¯ll send you a copy. ??In my experience many of the issues with the Jointer/Planer combo machines are related to the complexity and design of the hinge/latch mechanisms that facilitate flip-up tables. ?I have no direct experience with the new A951L, but reports from those who have used it have been positive, and with the elimination of the hinged table mechanisms, it¡¯s a machine I would seriously consider if I were looking for a newly manufactured stand alone jointer. An alternative to the two Felder jointer offerings worth checking out would be the SCM Nova F520 jointer. ???

David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/





On Nov 2, 2020, at 5:19 AM, Bill James via <xxrb2010@...> wrote:

Hi,

I read all the advices about going separate if you can as well as the inherent issues with the combo design for adjustment of the top tables, especially infeed (planer as called by Felder). I do have a A3-31 and did not mess yet with the infeed adjustment beyond the two securing bolt on the side opposite of the hinge. As my technic improve and I can dismiss my technic as the cause for bad jointing result, I might go tickle with the hinge side adjustment. I might also go separate.

So, looking at the Felder documentation, there is no standalone planer (as called by Felder). The A941 or A951L seems to have the same design and thus same issues as the AD941 and AD951. For fellows who went separate which planer did you buy? By planer I mean get one side of a board dead flat.

Thanks,

Bill?


Re: Felder F38 feeder repair

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

That F38 is a rebranded Comatic I believe.? Have you googled with Comatic instead of F38?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of dyclist@...
Sent: Sunday, November 1, 2020 3:17 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Felder F38 feeder repair

?

I have a seldom used F38 feeder that needs repair.? I set it up the other day and turned it on without a load or any pressure.? I heard some grinding, a crack, and two wheels quit turning.

Upon disassembly, I found two of the drive gears cracked and jammed in the chain.? I was able to get the cracked gears out, but I'm not sure how to replace them.

The smaller drive gear is held in place by two snap rings.? I'm not sure how to disassemble the driven gear and chain, and then re-assemble both gears and the chain together.

I appears that the wheel shaft must be removed to remove the the driven gear on this shaft.? Should I leave the driven gear and shaft in place and break the roller chain?? With such a short chain, there's not much space to break the chain and to re-assemble it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

By the way, I spoke to Felder.? The technical group couldn't help me.? They suggested that I send the feeder back for repair.? With the cost of two way shipping and the estimated repair charges, I can probably come close by buying a new Comatic DC-30!

? ?Dennis


Re: separate jointer planer

 
Edited

I bought the A951L and paired it with a D963.? Both are less than 1 year old, so I am unable to make any meaningful statement about reliability.? So far, they have performed their functions well.? They both have Felder's spiral cutter head.? If you decide on the A951L, you should inquire if the tables can be prepared for extension wings at both end.? I did not see this as an option when I placed my order, but I remember seeing a photograph afterward of a A951L with extension wings attached.? The A951L has a factory option for a power feeder base, which I purchased, but has not installed a power feeder.??The A951L has 140mm DC port.? Delivery of the A951L was a bit tricky because the machine is so long and the crate was even longer.? It needed to be loaded from the side of a trailer with a forklift.??

I remember reading David Best's analysis paper of the A951L and it's Format cousin.? During the research phase, I corresponded with Karl Knapp about the differences between the Felder 900 and Format series.? From memory, his recommendations leaned toward the Felder series as the additional options on the Format series were interesting but not essential.? He said something to the effect that they have thousands of shops with these machines and not much end user problems.? You may want to reach out to him.? He was very helpful.??

SW


Re: Tannewitz Brake Questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I¡¯ve started disassembly and the brakes apparently changed a lot over the years . On my machine both wheels have brake drums integrated but the lower had no brakes.? There is a heavy steel plate that bolts to the motor that has one broken off bolt and a slot crudely cut with a torch.? It¡¯s not clear that drum brakes ever mounted to that plate.? I will remove the upper brakes and the master cylinder.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2020 4:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Brake Questions

?

What ever is the simplistic and cheapest I would avoid using a brake Justin case of emergency.

In larger machines bigger hp I would use disc brakes .

My oliver has an over ride that cuts the motor if the blade brakes than using the manual rub brake.

My best advise is don¡¯t stand to the right of the blade so your not buy when blade breaks.

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years



On Oct 12, 2020, at 11:26 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:

?My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.? But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??

I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?


Re: separate jointer planer

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Bill, where are you located?? Given you call a planer what we in US call a jointer, I'm wondering what used machines are available in your region.? Euro jointers ( planers ) like Martin, Bauerle, Kolle, Hofmann, as well as SCMI,Panhans, and Eastern Euro EMA, Unitronix, Kirtchfeld, etc should be available used.? Put a vfd on them and you can run off single phase and get an industrial machine for the price of a lesser new model.? As long as the tables are flat, there have been no real improvements to jointers for about 75 years.? Dave


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...>
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 8:19 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] separate jointer planer
?
Hi,

I read all the advices about going separate if you can as well as the inherent issues with the combo design for adjustment of the top tables, especially infeed (planer as called by Felder). I do have a A3-31 and did not mess yet with the infeed adjustment beyond the two securing bolt on the side opposite of the hinge. As my technic improve and I can dismiss my technic as the cause for bad jointing result, I might go tickle with the hinge side adjustment. I might also go separate.

So, looking at the Felder documentation, there is no standalone planer (as called by Felder). The A941 or A951L seems to have the same design and thus same issues as the AD941 and AD951. For fellows who went separate which planer did you buy? By planer I mean get one side of a board dead flat.

Thanks,

Bill?


Re: separate jointer planer

 
Edited

Imran,

I based my thought about the A941 and A951 after I reviewed the manual posted in the File section. The manual shows hinges for both A and AD models or I miss read the manual.

Maybe someone with an A model can confirm or not.

Thanks,

Bill


Re: Ten woodworking tools you have to see

 

I have not used that disc sander, but I've been using a hand cranked one for years. I teach a class on making Shaker oval boxes every summer on a picnic table in the woods. It became the solution for fitting tops and bottoms very accurately, and quite quickly if you did a decent job cutting out with the coping saw. Mine is a converted Wards Master hand cranked grinder. I replaced the sharpening wheel with a plywood disc where the sandpaper is applied. I built a table fixture around it dedicated to the 3 degree bevel that we use on the parts. The grinder is geared so that you can crank a little and let it coast if you are just fine tuning. Everyone who's used it loves the thing. If only I could find a solution for dust collection!

I've been using the JDS Multirouter for nearly 25 years. One thing it can do that the Pantorouter can't is be a very fast production machine. When equipped with the pneumatic clamps, you can process chair parts at an alarming rate once you've got a setup. You couldn't do it any faster without spending exponentially more money on a twin table 5 axis CNC. I don't have any experience with a tenoner to know if that's a solution, but those are huge, single purpose machines not many of us have the space for. I mill brass and aluminum on the JDS.? Using a shop made jig which is essentially a vertical table, I can machine very small delicate parts like pickup rings for the guitars I build. I love that they use Thomson linear rails and bearings. The thing stays accurate year after year without any slop. I've never had a DRO on mine and I get by fine, but I'm sure I'd never go back if I installed it. It would be a slippery slope to have to add those all over the shop. Maybe as my eyes get worse...

I've thought of multiple improvements that could be made over the years, but they fall on deaf ears over at JDS. Now that they've been sold maybe things will change? I wouldn't be without one in the shop, or two or three. Down to just two now.

Jason

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture

3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


Re: Ten woodworking tools you have to see

 

Standalone slot mortisers can cut deeper mortise (more than 2" for traditional M&T joinery on door and table) than MultiRouter does. Festool Domino XL is a handheld slot mortiser paired with their fixed sized tenon (70mm is the deepest tenon you can use).

I think you are referring to this post? on SMC, at that price (US$2900), I do not think it is a deal, I would rather buy a brand new Multi Router. Who cares about the steel stand, cabinet, 1.5HP used router, and used router bits? As a woodworker, I am sure anyone can design a better stand with a cabinet to suit their own needs.

Darrel Peart on IG has lots of posts about how he uses his MultiRouter, he has two DRO on his MR, it is really handy to rout precise mortise at any size.

MultiRouter's build does look more robust than PantoRouter. If there is a deal out there (like under $1800), I will buy it for sure. But the brand new price at $2995 without router and template, adding the Canadian tax (13%), is hard for me to swallow.

There is no dust collection on MultiRouter whatsoever, unbelievable and terrible for a 30+ years old product. For MultiRouter owners, I think a $99 PantoRouter dust collection hood is needed (), LOL.

James


On Sun, Nov 1, 2020 at 7:28 PM David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
I too am following this thread.? David is my benchmark and I find it interesting that he felt it necessary to add the DRO to his multirouter.? JDS even thinks the Accruate?height DRO is a needed option.? From a functionality standpoint how do these compare to standalone machines like the Felder/Griggio/Make slot mortisers?? Festool Domino for that matter?? I see there is a multirouter?for sale on sawmillcreek now without any templates so I'd assume he primarily used his machine for basic slotting operations?
Thanks,
Dave Davies

On Sun, Nov 1, 2020 at 5:52 PM David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Thanks for all the comments. It has been a very interesting thread. I¡¯m quite interested in the comparisons between the panto router and the multi router, and whether one can do something the other can¡¯t. I have not used either, and my understanding is simply that the one is more robust than the other, and obviously has a very different price tag. Maybe like comparing a Kappa 400 with a Delta Unisaw? (I use that comparison only because I¡¯ve owned and used both very extensively.) They both cut wood, but they are really rather different animals with rather different price tags.

Thanks again,
Lucky

On 2 Nov 2020, at 12:36 am, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

I have recently been thinking about getting a pantorouter but coming from the multi router it just seams rinky dink however I haven¡¯t put my hands on one seems good enough for hobby work from what I have seen on ig and you tube but I can¡¯t tell if some of the users that rave about in-fact got it for free or at a discount. Just seems like a lot of money for what it is.

?

Regards, Mark



On Nov 1, 2020, at 8:56 AM, Ramon Valdez <valdezfinefurniture@...> wrote:

?
I love the Pantorouter...such a hugely versatile machine.? I find new ways to use it every time I use it.? I wanted to use it on my latest project but the Domino seemed like a better choice. ? But yeah, I can¡¯t say enough good about the Pantorouter.?

Ramon Valdez

On Oct 31, 2020, at 4:58 PM, habacomike via <habacomike@...> wrote:

? Yep, the pantorouter seems to be all the rage at the moment...

On Oct 31, 2020, at 4:52 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?Multirouter is not on the list, PantoRouter and Tormek T8.

I talked To Mac Sheldon, he said he shipped many PantoRouters to US address near the border for Canadian customers, they crossed the border to pick it up. Otherwise, there are extra brokerage fees and duty except the Canadian tax, cause PantoRouter is made in Taiwan. Because of the pandemic, I cannot cross the border now, just have to wait until the pandemic is over.

Having a horizontal mounted router opens lots of possibilities that you cannot do on the router table, not only for the chair making. For example, I can make an auxiliary table to turn the PantoRouter into the Hoffman dovetail machine.

James

On Sat, Oct 31, 2020 at 3:52 PM David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
OK...which two?? I'd guess the multirouter?is one of them.
Dave Davies

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 7:33 PM James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
Interesting video, two are on my purchase list :)

I removed "expensive" in the subject line, cause I think people on this forum are generally comfortable with this kind of price (not Barth price) for high quality tools.?



James




--?
Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868






--
Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868