Re: Minimum Space on the Slider Side of Saw
I have 8’6” to left of blade for clearance for sheet goods, more if necessary for shorter pieces. Barely enough to work and not comfortable. Wish I had more at it gets really tight. I usually trim off the factory edge so it sticks
out 8’ to left of blade. Would love at least 10 but can get by with a bit over 8’. Would not entertain anything less than what I have. To the rip side, I have about 20” clearance from a wall. You can be a lot tighter on that side.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
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Right now you are thinking like a hobbyist, if you plan to open a woodshop with your son you can't limit your possibilities since you don't know what work is going to be coming your way. I have at least 12' available to the left of saw. I routinely
cut 8' square cuts on a 4x8 sheet as most are close but not always perfect.
-------- Original message --------
From: larry@...
Date: 2020-05-28 12:49 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [FOG] Minimum Space on the Slider Side of Saw
Hello,
I am new here and not real familiar with this sort of forum set-up so please bare with me.
A short introduction. I have been a woodworker my whole adult life but for the past 15-20 years it as really been more carpentry than woodworking trying to keep our homes in good shape or to do remodeling. I am retired Coast Guard having served for 32 years
and after retiring in 2008, took a civilian job with the Coast Guard where I would and live in the Houston, TX, area. My son is also in the Coast Guard and can retire in 4 years. Our plan is to open a small woodshop and I have been adding to my equipment during
our planning and start-up phase. The honest truth is that my son is the real talent...I am the one with more disposable income.
I own the following Felder equipment:
Bandsaw: FB 710
Dust Extractor: RL 160
Jointer/Planer: AD 941
Unfortunately, I do not have a Felder sliding table saw. Mine is a 10' slider that was built by a small company in Dallas that sources their cabinet sections from Taiwan and the slider mechanism from Italy. I am currently in the process of renovating a 1500
sq. ft. steel building that will be the woodshop and, although bigger than any garage I have used in the past, will fill up quicker than I realize.
Sorry for the long intro...to my question:
I am trying to figure out how much room I need to the left of the slider? My shop set-up will have my lumber rack up against the wall on the left slide of the slider and would like to have a little room to move between the lumber storage and the saw. My initial
thought was that I would need a LOT of space so that I could turn the sheet lengthwise for cutting but then quickly realized that there would never be a time where I would have a full sheet of plywood sticking 8' out from the blade. As far as other lumber,
I would crosscut that at the miter station I plan to build.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
?
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Re: Minimum Space on the Slider Side of Saw
Right now you are thinking like a hobbyist, if you plan to open a woodshop with your son you can't limit your possibilities since you don't know what work is going to be coming your way. I have at least 12' available to the left of saw. I routinely cut 8' square cuts on a 4x8 sheet as most are close but not always perfect.
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-------- Original message -------- From: larry@... Date: 2020-05-28 12:49 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] Minimum Space on the Slider Side of Saw
Hello, I am new here and not real familiar with this sort of forum set-up so please bare with me. A short introduction. I have been a woodworker my whole adult life but for the past 15-20 years it as really been more carpentry than woodworking trying to keep our homes in good shape or to do remodeling. I am retired Coast Guard having served for 32 years and after retiring in 2008, took a civilian job with the Coast Guard where I would and live in the Houston, TX, area. My son is also in the Coast Guard and can retire in 4 years. Our plan is to open a small woodshop and I have been adding to my equipment during our planning and start-up phase. The honest truth is that my son is the real talent...I am the one with more disposable income. I own the following Felder equipment:
Bandsaw: FB 710
Dust Extractor: RL 160
Jointer/Planer: AD 941
Unfortunately, I do not have a Felder sliding table saw. Mine is a 10' slider that was built by a small company in Dallas that sources their cabinet sections from Taiwan and the slider mechanism from Italy. I am currently in the process of renovating a 1500 sq. ft. steel building that will be the woodshop and, although bigger than any garage I have used in the past, will fill up quicker than I realize.
Sorry for the long intro...to my question:
I am trying to figure out how much room I need to the left of the slider? My shop set-up will have my lumber rack up against the wall on the left slide of the slider and would like to have a little room to move between the lumber storage and the saw. My initial thought was that I would need a LOT of space so that I could turn the sheet lengthwise for cutting but then quickly realized that there would never be a time where I would have a full sheet of plywood sticking 8' out from the blade. As far as other lumber, I would crosscut that at the miter station I plan to build.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
?
|
Anybody got space / time for a project saw? ?It looks big.  This craigslister also has a large clamp table: ? and some lumber racks:? I wonder if this is the start of the virus related shop closures.
|
Re: Minimum Space on the Slider Side of Saw
I would suggest a minimum of ten feet. You need a little room to maneuver, and while you might not cut a sheet at 8 foot, you will need to get it up there and not hit the blade.
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On May 28, 2020, at 9:21 AM, larry@... wrote:
Hello, I am new here and not real familiar with this sort of forum set-up so please bare with me. A short introduction. I have been a woodworker my whole adult life but for the past 15-20 years it as really been more carpentry than woodworking trying to keep our homes in good shape or to do remodeling. I am retired Coast Guard having served for 32 years and after retiring in 2008, took a civilian job with the Coast Guard where I would and live in the Houston, TX, area. My son is also in the Coast Guard and can retire in 4 years. Our plan is to open a small woodshop and I have been adding to my equipment during our planning and start-up phase. The honest truth is that my son is the real talent...I am the one with more disposable income. I own the following Felder equipment: Bandsaw: FB 710 Dust Extractor: RL 160 Jointer/Planer: AD 941
Unfortunately, I do not have a Felder sliding table saw. Mine is a 10' slider that was built by a small company in Dallas that sources their cabinet sections from Taiwan and the slider mechanism from Italy. I am currently in the process of renovating a 1500 sq. ft. steel building that will be the woodshop and, although bigger than any garage I have used in the past, will fill up quicker than I realize.
Sorry for the long intro...to my question:
I am trying to figure out how much room I need to the left of the slider? My shop set-up will have my lumber rack up against the wall on the left slide of the slider and would like to have a little room to move between the lumber storage and the saw. My initial thought was that I would need a LOT of space so that I could turn the sheet lengthwise for cutting but then quickly realized that there would never be a time where I would have a full sheet of plywood sticking 8' out from the blade. As far as other lumber, I would crosscut that at the miter station I plan to build.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
?
|
Re: Minimum Space on the Slider Side of Saw
Larry,
I assume you already know what space you need with the slider you have. Or are you considering buying a Felder saw?
I recently added a K975 with ~51“ of rip. The xcut fence that goes with outrigger is ~6’. Overhead saw guard can also play a role. Long story short I need ~12’ to fit this thing. I am few inches shy of 12’ due to a pillar. So I have the rip bar touching the right side wall and like that I cannot cut 48” but can move the outrigger with fence and clear the pillar. I have located the saw such that I can extend my xcut fence fully and cut 4’ before the fence is restricted by the pillar.
In my opinion space is better utilized with rip side next to the wall. There is a definite maximum on the rip side due to the fence but the usable space on the left side, in some circumstances, can be even longer than your xcut fence. I know there are more ways to skin a cat but I would plan for the ability to make full use of the xcut fence, unless you are darn sure that the need would never arise.
Hope this helps.
Imran
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On May 28, 2020, at 12:49 PM, larry@... wrote: ?Hello, I am new here and not real familiar with this sort of forum set-up so please bare with me. A short introduction. I have been a woodworker my whole adult life but for the past 15-20 years it as really been more carpentry than woodworking trying to keep our homes in good shape or to do remodeling. I am retired Coast Guard having served for 32 years and after retiring in 2008, took a civilian job with the Coast Guard where I would and live in the Houston, TX, area. My son is also in the Coast Guard and can retire in 4 years. Our plan is to open a small woodshop and I have been adding to my equipment during our planning and start-up phase. The honest truth is that my son is the real talent...I am the one with more disposable income. I own the following Felder equipment:
Bandsaw: FB 710
Dust Extractor: RL 160
Jointer/Planer: AD 941
Unfortunately, I do not have a Felder sliding table saw. Mine is a 10' slider that was built by a small company in Dallas that sources their cabinet sections from Taiwan and the slider mechanism from Italy. I am currently in the process of renovating a 1500 sq. ft. steel building that will be the woodshop and, although bigger than any garage I have used in the past, will fill up quicker than I realize.
Sorry for the long intro...to my question:
I am trying to figure out how much room I need to the left of the slider? My shop set-up will have my lumber rack up against the wall on the left slide of the slider and would like to have a little room to move between the lumber storage and the saw. My initial thought was that I would need a LOT of space so that I could turn the sheet lengthwise for cutting but then quickly realized that there would never be a time where I would have a full sheet of plywood sticking 8' out from the blade. As far as other lumber, I would crosscut that at the miter station I plan to build.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
?
|
Re: Adjustable Groover Item # 03.0.033 depth of cut
NP, Jonathan. It is late for me to go this route as I have multiple rebate heads and the safety cutterhead for profiles.
Imran
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On May 28, 2020, at 12:38 PM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote: ? Brian, thanks for answering Imrans questions.....you answered better than I could....
Imran, I don't know if the combi head will take felder safety cutterhead blades....I would give Whitehill a call and talk to David Hudson.
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Minimum Space on the Slider Side of Saw
Hello, I am new here and not real familiar with this sort of forum set-up so please bare with me. A short introduction. I have been a woodworker my whole adult life but for the past 15-20 years it as really been more carpentry than woodworking trying to keep our homes in good shape or to do remodeling. I am retired Coast Guard having served for 32 years and after retiring in 2008, took a civilian job with the Coast Guard where I would and live in the Houston, TX, area. My son is also in the Coast Guard and can retire in 4 years. Our plan is to open a small woodshop and I have been adding to my equipment during our planning and start-up phase. The honest truth is that my son is the real talent...I am the one with more disposable income. I own the following Felder equipment:
Bandsaw: FB 710
Dust Extractor: RL 160
Jointer/Planer: AD 941
Unfortunately, I do not have a Felder sliding table saw. Mine is a 10' slider that was built by a small company in Dallas that sources their cabinet sections from Taiwan and the slider mechanism from Italy. I am currently in the process of renovating a 1500 sq. ft. steel building that will be the woodshop and, although bigger than any garage I have used in the past, will fill up quicker than I realize.
Sorry for the long intro...to my question:
I am trying to figure out how much room I need to the left of the slider? My shop set-up will have my lumber rack up against the wall on the left slide of the slider and would like to have a little room to move between the lumber storage and the saw. My initial thought was that I would need a LOT of space so that I could turn the sheet lengthwise for cutting but then quickly realized that there would never be a time where I would have a full sheet of plywood sticking 8' out from the blade. As far as other lumber, I would crosscut that at the miter station I plan to build.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
?
|
Re: Adjustable Groover Item # 03.0.033 depth of cut
Brian, thanks for answering Imrans questions.....you answered better than I could....
Imran, I don't know if the combi head will take felder safety cutterhead blades....I would give Whitehill a call and talk to David Hudson.
|
Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
I use two routers that incorporate their own lifts.
On of a Porter cable and the other is a Triton? both? the larger
HP? routers.
The plunge function is the lift and I operate? the PC from above
the table with a little rig I built that used the aluminum? router
plate? and an allen bolt that drives a length of all thread
through a brass? block tapped ( attched to the router)? for the
all thread to raise and lower the router on it's own? plunge
mechanism.
The triton? is mounted horizontally and I use the lunge? as
factory designed?? in a slot mortising set up with a little
Grizzly X-Y table? from which I removed the rials? and lead screws
and? fixed? mortising? type handles.
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On 5/27/20 6:09 PM, jose alberto via groups.io wrote:
Hi Guys,
My Jessem router lift broke.? Threads on screw have worn out and
therefor doesn't hold position.? So this is opportunity to maybe
purchase the router spindle for my KF700 but its price of $912 is
making me doubt if its worth it.? The other option is to replace
the Jessem router lift with another router lift which I am leaning
towards the??for $349 after a discount.? So I am
pretty sure this is probably the smart choice but for any that
have been in same situation and have ditched the router lift and
have replaced it with the router spindle, I am curious what your
opinions and inputs are.
Thanks,
Jose
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Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
If you decide to get a router lift, consider taking a look at General International out of Canada. I have had 3 of them for years. My impression of them is very favorable. I have a Felder 900 M on order now. It took awhile to get the 900 into the budget so I bought a Comatic DC40 and mounted it on a pedestal. My router tables and my small shaper are on hard wood pallets that I pallet jack into position to use the feeder. Kind of a rig-a-roni, but it works. I plan on getting at least one 1/8 HP Comatic feeder for the router tables since the DC 40 will be dedicated to the Felder. There are any number of ways that I will continue to use my router tables. 3 big shapers would be better, but the router tables are paid for. It’s nice to have multiple machines set up at once. George Gerstner. 
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On May 28, 2020, at 8:12 AM, Christopher Edwards <caedwards874@...> wrote:
? I have a Woodpeckers PRL-V2 lift, in a standalone router table, and a Jessum Master Lift II in the right end of my table saw.
Of the two, I prefer the Jessum Master Lift II.
Incra sells both of these lifts, with their name. They change out the top plate so you can use the magnetic clean sweep inserts. I highly recommend these inserts for dust collection.
Chris Edwards (407) 902-1358 cell
On May 28, 2020, at 5:54 AM, Bill Hope < hope.we@...> wrote:
Hi Jose,
I have an?INCRA PRL-V2 Lift on an extension attached to a TS that I'm replacing. It's okay. I find the fine adjustment wheel to be a bit awkward to use and if I do end up with another router table, I was going to try the Jessem. I'll be curious if you get the opportunity to compare the two. I have a?Leigh RJT400 dovetail jig that probably isn't going to work on a shaper with a router spindle, so I'll either have to replace the dovetail jig or get a router table, which I don't really have room for.?
--?
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
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Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
I’ve not encountered any issues with the router spindle.? In fact I don’t notice any difference between 15,000 rpm and 19,000 or even 23,000 when running
small bits.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of jose alberto via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2020 7:01 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Router Spindle or Router Lift
?
Hi David and Joe,
Have you all found any issues when it comes to putting profiles on thin stock?? That is one concern I have.
Thanks
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Aha, this a very good point. Thanks Dave. Let me think?about it. Maybe I just will buy pallet jack, used one and be done with it. Especially my new shop little bit bigger. Ed.
I'll throw out my two cents on the need for Zambus casters.? Sure, once installed my 24" SCMI bandsaw rolls effortlessly across my shop floor...but I have to raise each of the four wheels into position to do so and then drop them down when done.? Getting the wheels down is kind of a pain.? I shouldn't have ever installed them.? If? you can? use a pallet jack it'll be much easier to move the machine.? Crawling around on the floor to drop six or eight wheels doesn't sound like a lot of fun when compared to a couple of pumps on a pallet jack.? As Joe pointed out, if leveling is the issue I use leveling legs and mark on the shop floor where they go so you can precisely move the machine back into position and have it level.
Dave Davies
On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 9:55 AM bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote: Hi Ed,
I have Zambus casters on several machines.
I bought the casters with 10mm studs and used double nuts on the back side that way no drilling was necessary.
The casters don’t do well on uneven or rough surfaces as the wheels are small. ?
If you are considering using the casters to roll your machines into trucks with uneven thresholds then there are better solutions.? Like a pallet jack.
Once your machines are in place then the casters should be installed. ?
I find it easier to move my CF731 with a pallet jack in the shop but I only move it every couple of years.? I have the levelers set and mark the floor so I can get the machine back in the same place and level without adjusting the levelers.? So no need for Zambus casters on the CF731. ?
?
Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
I'll throw out my two cents on the need for Zambus casters.? Sure, once installed my 24" SCMI bandsaw rolls effortlessly across my shop floor...but I have to raise each of the four wheels into position to do so and then drop them down when done.? Getting the wheels down is kind of a pain.? I shouldn't have ever installed them.? If? you can? use a pallet jack it'll be much easier to move the machine.? Crawling around on the floor to drop six or eight wheels doesn't sound like a lot of fun when compared to a couple of pumps on a pallet jack.? As Joe pointed out, if leveling is the issue I use leveling legs and mark on the shop floor where they go so you can precisely move the machine back into position and have it level.
Dave Davies
On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 9:55 AM bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote: Hi Ed,
I have Zambus casters on several machines.
I bought the casters with 10mm studs and used double nuts on the back side that way no drilling was necessary.
The casters don’t do well on uneven or rough surfaces as the wheels are small. ?
If you are considering using the casters to roll your machines into trucks with uneven thresholds then there are better solutions.? Like a pallet jack.
Once your machines are in place then the casters should be installed. ?
I find it easier to move my CF731 with a pallet jack in the shop but I only move it every couple of years.? I have the levelers set and mark the floor so I can get the machine back in the same place and level without adjusting the levelers.? So no need for Zambus casters on the CF731. ?
?
Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Isn’t there a mobility kit for the CF541? ?I have the Felder mobility kit on the CF741, and it works well. ?I personally would go with either a pallet jack or the Felder kit...
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Hi Joe,?I have a lot of time for relocation, placing casters just step in between, only because I am going to lift machine anyway and floor in a new shop - concrete. ?If you think that better to place caster in the new place - maybe you are correct. I will change my plan accordingly. Question remain - how many casters? Ed. On May 28, 2020, at 10:55, bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote:
Hi Ed,
I have Zambus casters on several machines.
I bought the casters with 10mm studs and used double nuts on the back side that way no drilling was necessary.
The casters don’t do well on uneven or rough surfaces as the wheels are small. ?
If you are considering using the casters to roll your machines into trucks with uneven thresholds then there are better solutions. ?Like a pallet jack.
Once your machines are in place then the casters should be installed. ?
I find it easier to move my CF731 with a pallet jack in the shop but I only move it every couple of years. ?I have the levelers set and mark the floor so I can get the machine back in the same place and level without adjusting the levelers. ?So no need for Zambus casters on the CF731. ?
?
Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
|
Hi Joe, ?I have a lot of time for relocation, placing casters just step in between, only because I am going to lift machine anyway and floor in a new shop - concrete. ?If you think that better to place caster in the new place - maybe you are correct. I will change my plan accordingly. Question remain - how many casters?
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On May 28, 2020, at 10:55, bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote:
Hi Ed,
I have Zambus casters on several machines.
I bought the casters with 10mm studs and used double nuts on the back side that way no drilling was necessary.
The casters don’t do well on uneven or rough surfaces as the wheels are small. ?
If you are considering using the casters to roll your machines into trucks with uneven thresholds then there are better solutions. ?Like a pallet jack.
Once your machines are in place then the casters should be installed. ?
I find it easier to move my CF731 with a pallet jack in the shop but I only move it every couple of years. ?I have the levelers set and mark the floor so I can get the machine back in the same place and level without adjusting the levelers. ?So no need for Zambus casters on the CF731. ?
?
Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
|
Hi Ed,
I have Zambus casters on several machines.
I bought the casters with 10mm studs and used double nuts on the back side that way no drilling was necessary.
The casters don’t do well on uneven or rough surfaces as the wheels are small. ?
If you are considering using the casters to roll your machines into trucks with uneven thresholds then there are better solutions. ?Like a pallet jack.
Once your machines are in place then the casters should be installed. ?
I find it easier to move my CF731 with a pallet jack in the shop but I only move it every couple of years. ?I have the levelers set and mark the floor so I can get the machine back in the same place and level without adjusting the levelers. ?So no need for Zambus casters on the CF731. ?
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Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
|
Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
|
Agreed. I have a 20-year old Senco 18-ga nailer that will sink 15mm brads on about 55 psi. Sounds like the gun is leaky or has an undersized cylinder.
?
BTW – I bought the Milwaukee Gen 2 18-ga battery-powered brad nailer. It’s a big boy compared to an air nailer, but I love the convenience of no hose and no surprise air compressor starts (maybe I have PTSD, but the compressor randomly
starting bugs me way more than the predictable noise of tools I turn on manually). Milwaukee’s first-gen brad nailer sucked, so beware of buying a used one, but the Gen2 is awesome. At a lower price point I’ve heard the Ryobi’s are good, too, but I’m a Milwaukee
shop so I waited until they came out with a good product.
?
I have to chime in on this one since I use brad nailers and all sorts of nailers from pinners, to finish nailers..
Your issue may be the nailer itself.. Inexpensive knock-off guns, tend to not work so well compared to their counterparts. They are made cheaply and their tolerances are not as
good as brands such as Makita, (older) Senco, Bostitch, Grex, Cadex...just to name a few.? This is where the old adage comes into play that you get what you pay for.?
Now..that does not mean they won't work, they do, but sometimes you get less than stellar results.? I would try a better brand and see how well it works compared to the gun your
using and go from there.. Bump your compressors regulator for the outfeed air to minimum to 100psi and try that.
On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 04:23:44 AM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
I did forget to answer your question. You should be able to set brad in at least 1/16” may be more. I know it never has been an issue filling the hole with a filler
when needed.
On May 28, 2020, at 2:01 AM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote:
?Thanks Imran,?the Nailer I have is a brand sold in Australia by tool company call Trade Tools, it is a re-badge?
Chinese brand, I think it may be the same as Freeman which are sold at home depo. Most of their rebadged tools are not top shelf quality but they are generally quite serviceable.
Murray
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Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
I have a Woodpeckers PRL-V2 lift, in a standalone router table, and a Jessum Master Lift II in the right end of my table saw.
Of the two, I prefer the Jessum Master Lift II.
Incra sells both of these lifts, with their name. They change out the top plate so you can use the magnetic clean sweep inserts. I highly recommend these inserts for dust collection.
Chris Edwards (407) 902-1358 cell
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On May 28, 2020, at 5:54 AM, Bill Hope < hope.we@...> wrote:
Hi Jose,
I have an?INCRA PRL-V2 Lift on an extension attached to a TS that I'm replacing. It's okay. I find the fine adjustment wheel to be a bit awkward to use and if I do end up with another router table, I was going to try the Jessem. I'll be curious if you get the opportunity to compare the two. I have a?Leigh RJT400 dovetail jig that probably isn't going to work on a shaper with a router spindle, so I'll either have to replace the dovetail jig or get a router table, which I don't really have room for.?
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-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
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I have to chime in on this one since I use brad nailers and all sorts of nailers from pinners, to finish nailers.. Your issue may be the nailer itself.. Inexpensive knock-off guns, tend to not work so well compared to their counterparts. They are made cheaply and their tolerances are not as good as brands such as Makita, (older) Senco, Bostitch, Grex, Cadex...just to name a few.? This is where the old adage comes into play that you get what you pay for.?
Now..that does not mean they won't work, they do, but sometimes you get less than stellar results.? I would try a better brand and see how well it works compared to the gun your using and go from there.. Bump your compressors regulator for the outfeed air to minimum to 100psi and try that.
On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 04:23:44 AM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
I did forget to answer your question. You should be able to set brad in at least 1/16” may be more. I know it never has been an issue filling the hole with a filler when needed.
Imran
On May 28, 2020, at 2:01 AM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote: ?Thanks Imran,?the Nailer I have is a brand sold in Australia by tool company call Trade Tools, it is a re-badge? Chinese brand, I think it may be the same as Freeman which are sold at home depo. Most of their rebadged tools are not top shelf quality but they are generally quite serviceable.
Murray
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Tad Gallistel
imran
Larry
Joe Jensen