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Oh no prob. I haven’t touched it since I made this initial posting. I just hope my first fub up didn’t destroy the control panel/power drive.

Sorry Michael it was late control wire on Felder is brown I have pointed that out hundreds of time I don’t know what I was thinking. Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave.

Jonathan, Nice work. Are those top little doors hinged on the top side? Did you use the Aventos or some other lift type thing? Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture www.jholtz.com 3307 Snelling Ave. South

On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 07:05 AM, jontathan samways wrote: > > Michael > I make my own bumper stops, positioned at the back of the draw runner. > > Most of my furniture is face framed, don't think the

Michael I make my own bumper stops, positioned at the back of the draw runner. Most of my furniture is face framed, don't think the fast cap jig would work as normally I work on a 2mm gap....also most

I do have the overhead on a K500 with the modified port opening to 4". Below are the advantages of this solution compare to the riving knife mounted guard. Keep in mind I never had the later solution.

I don’t have the sag issue if I use bumpers. But if I use Blum tip-on or Grass Tipmatic, I have to subtract 1mm from by bottom measurements to get a 3mm reveal otherwise it sags 1mm. Everyone in the

Inset or overlay work identical, when parked there is no sag, the sag only occurs when the slide is extended. For drawer front adjustment I use the tried and true Blum fastening system. See below if

Jonathon. Have you tried the fast cap drawer face jig? I just got it in the mail, I’m always up for saving time. Right now, I have been using my own jig. Using inset furniture nuts and a 3-1/2”

I use blum movento and grass dynapro. Drawers still sag up to 2mm if heavy object are inside. But I only build frameless full overlay with 3mm reveals. I am not sure how inset cabinetry works. If the

David, I hope I didn’t destroy power drive with int the first ten seconds of me raising the blade due to the electrical wiring being wrong. At first the machine turned on, the panel was lit up. Now,

Hi Imran, If memory serves me correctly, the overhead guard for my saw added about $1,000 to the price of the saw. At the time, it seemed somewhat expensive, but significantly better than the

David & all i think my post was back assbackwards, so don't listen to me. David, so the brown wire should be on the manufactured leg? I know I did what you you told me to do and I did it just that way

I uploaded a PDF of my plug wiring note to the document/electrical file upload section last week.? This applies to my 2019 and 2020 3-phase Felder machines. SW

Also ask David Best, he walked me through the correct wiring and made it clear cut and simple. Glen Big Tree Woodworking P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224 wrote:

Any new info on the "next upgrade"? Bob

Alex, I would be just as much upset with the floppy guard do you think it is a price point issue? Comparatively, the guard tube on my K975 is massive but it comes with a much more expensive saw. BTW,

I have the Felder overhead guard on my KF700SP. It is on a saw with the wide rip option, so the arm is quite long. The pros include... It is really built heavy duty. It functions well, and with the

Jonathan, Nice cabinetry ? ? Glen I use spax 4mm screws and drill a 5mm hole, gives a little wiggle room. I fit the front's in the shop to save time on site. I use spacers to set the front up and

Glen, Below is the link to the torx bit I use the Wurth Assy screws. It has what Wera calls a “Holding Function” which basically means the bit is a tight fit to the recess and has a slightly