? Sweet, you will be glad you got the segmented pressure bar (or whatever the hell they call it) no squealing pig noise from the sheet steel pressure shoe? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 15, 2020, at 6:53 AM, We eat the sun <we.eat.the.sun@...> wrote:
? Arrived Thursday, it¡¯s really quite a machine, very impressive.
Cheers,
Liam
<12160A8D-B46D-4E56-BAA9-5D46DF9583C6.jpeg> <B274B8CF-ACB8-4B04-8F54-D424E00F3558.jpeg>
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Thats pretty slick Murry. Regards, Mark
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On Feb 15, 2020, at 4:01 AM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote:
? Below is a picture of my home-made overhead guard. I was mainly motivated by dust extraction, I recently upgraded to an AF 160 and with the main dust hose attached to the saw it has heaps of extra capacity which I wanted to use on their overhead guard. I found with the original guard and its small diameter dust port nothing other than a vacuum cleaner would work.
My guard has a simple telescoping up down mechanism using a kip lever, and the whole arm can pivot completely out of the way when required.
So far appears to be working well, it was cheap and? to build but was quite a bit of work.
Murray
<IMG_8173.jpg>
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So there is no way to adjust/shim the guide column? I thought I saw that it could be done on an mm20, of course different saw but I assumed it would be that way on any of the larger bandsaws. Glad I didn¡¯t pull the trigger on the fb510 i was looking at, I will be going with the mm20 or as David recommends ACM...? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 15, 2020, at 1:52 AM, "david@..." <david@...> wrote:
? I totally agree with James. ?Felder is not best of breed when it comes to bandsaws. ? Seek out an Italian alternative. ? Felder used to OEM the ACM, but no longer does so.
The more you tighten this knob, the more the blade is deflected sideways and tracking goes to hell on the Hammer N4400 and the FB510/610¡¯s I¡¯ve seen. ? Stick with an ACM-made unit if you can.
Bill,
Since FB510 does not meet your expectations, sell it and buy a different brand maybe MiniMax / SCM.
You have Kappa slider, I think you should pair your?Kappa with a better bandsaw :)
James
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 11:58 PM Bill B¨¦langer < bllblngr@...> wrote: I agree James, it¡¯s just that I really like the bandsaw and this one is not performing. I¡¯m hoping that it¡¯s just me that can not fine tune this machine.? At least, I do not know. IMO, the bandsaw is not really a precision machine,
James Is there not a way to adjust the parallelism of the post?? Regards, Mark ? I have to say the post is not 100% parallel in the whole range. Tightening the knob definitely tilts the steel post slightly.
James? But is the post through the whole range parallel? Regards, Mark ? Mark,
There is not too much room to adjust the ceramic?guide after the knob is overtightened. Yes, the ceramic guide is parallel to the blade.
Slightly tightening the knob does not affect the quality of the cut.
James Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade?? Regards, Mark ? Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote: After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
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Arrived Thursday, it¡¯s really quite a machine, very impressive.
Cheers,
Liam
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Thanks for the replies lads, will take a look later.
Guessed it was probably something I had done wrong. Thanks again.
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Below is a picture of my home-made overhead guard. I was mainly motivated by dust extraction, I recently upgraded to an AF 160 and with the main dust hose attached to the saw it has heaps of extra capacity which I wanted to use on their overhead guard. I found with the original guard and its small diameter dust port nothing other than a vacuum cleaner would work.
My guard has a simple telescoping up down mechanism using a kip lever, and the whole arm can pivot completely out of the way when required.
So far appears to be working well, it was cheap and? to build but was quite a bit of work.
Murray
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I have a Hammer N4400 that I purchased a long time ago. When I started for the first time it had a nasty vibration, a coin balanced on it would immediately dance and fall over within a couple of seconds. I did some basic checks and soon found that the pulley on the motor was not well aligned with the pulley on the wheel. When I corrected this the vibration was vastly better but it was still there. I noticed that the V belt was a bit wonky, I went to a transmission place to get a segmented belt and a guy there said my belt was fine and refused to sell me the segmented belt. I then went to a nearby place and just bought the section of belt I needed, when I installed it the machine was fine.
I have a large 1 inch TCT blade that I use for ripping 2 to 3 mm veneers. This blade is really a bit too big for the N 4400 and when I first installed it and tensioned it up there was a significant vibration. Lonnie Bird in The Bandsaw Book points out that all machine frames have a number of resonant frequencies, and with bandsaws this means that certain combinations of blade and tension can cause even the best machines to vibrate. I backed off attention on my 1 inch blade substantially and the vibration went away. There appears to be?2 schools of thought with bandsaws, one that you need huge tension on wide blades and the other (Michael Fortune) says that you don't need enormous tension. My 1 inch blade at the lower tension works fine cutting accurate veneers in wide sections of hardwood.
Hope you sort out your problems.
Murray
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I totally agree with James. ?Felder is not best of breed when it comes to bandsaws. ? Seek out an Italian alternative. ? Felder used to OEM the ACM, but no longer does so.
The more you tighten this knob, the more the blade is deflected sideways and tracking goes to hell on the Hammer N4400 and the FB510/610¡¯s I¡¯ve seen. ? Stick with an ACM-made unit if you can.
David Best
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Bill,
Since FB510 does not meet your expectations, sell it and buy a different brand maybe MiniMax / SCM.
You have Kappa slider, I think you should pair your?Kappa with a better bandsaw :)
James
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 11:58 PM Bill B¨¦langer < bllblngr@...> wrote: I agree James, it¡¯s just that I really like the bandsaw and this one is not performing. I¡¯m hoping that it¡¯s just me that can not fine tune this machine.? At least, I do not know. IMO, the bandsaw is not really a precision machine,
James Is there not a way to adjust the parallelism of the post?? Regards, Mark ? I have to say the post is not 100% parallel in the whole range. Tightening the knob definitely tilts the steel post slightly.
James? But is the post through the whole range parallel? Regards, Mark ? Mark,
There is not too much room to adjust the ceramic?guide after the knob is overtightened. Yes, the ceramic guide is parallel to the blade.
Slightly tightening the knob does not affect the quality of the cut.
James Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade?? Regards, Mark ? Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote: After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
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I don't own a bandsaw yet but seems like the wheel does not spin fast enough to cause a vibration. Is it in sync with the wheel speed?? Anyway, a tire shop will have lead weights with a sticky back that are placed inside the rim on aluminum wheels..? ? Another thought, are the blade teeth riding on the tire.? Seems like the tech would check this. ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2020 8:55 PM
To: [email protected]; Bllblngr@...
Subject: Re: [FOG] FB510 Vibration? Bill, if the wheel stopped at 12 a few times, I doubt the wheel is the main cause.? I don't think a magnet will stay in place when under power and that could wreck your blade if it is thrown off.? Can you feel any dimples on the back of the wheel that would indicate balancing?? My old ( 1936 ) Oliver had a couple of screws with lead washers on it for balance.? It is a little out now but that is only evident as it starts or slows.? At speed it levels out.? My Yates is totally free of any vibration but that is newer ( 1938 ).? Dave
I spun the top wheel 13 times. 10 times it came to rest at 5-6-7 o¡¯clock. 3 times it stopped at 12. How much weight and what type of weight would I use?? Ran the motor alone, minimal vibration, not ?really smooth.? This saw is sitting on the mobility device. I need to try it on a solid base tomorrow. That should help some.? ? Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade?? ? I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp. What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.? On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar <jbod@...> wrote: After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
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If ACM is now the supplier of the MM saws, the Felder industrial line sourced from ACM is the same.? I believe Laguna's larger saws are still ACM too although it takes some courage to deal with Laguna. I don't know if Centauro has an importer in the US now.?
Used 24x17 Centauro or ACM can be found in the 2-3K range with a three phase motor.? Another $400 for a vfd and you are in business.? I had an 18" ACM and felt it was too light for serious resawing.? Nice for small stuff but nothing like my old Y20 Snowflake
for that purpose.? Dave
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Bill,
Since FB510 does not meet your expectations, sell it and buy a different brand maybe MiniMax / SCM.
You have Kappa slider, I think you should pair your?Kappa with a better bandsaw :)
James
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 11:58 PM Bill B¨¦langer < bllblngr@...> wrote:
I agree James, it¡¯s just that I really like the bandsaw and this one is not performing. I¡¯m hoping that it¡¯s just me that can not fine tune this machine.?
At least, I do not know. IMO, the bandsaw is not really a precision machine,
James
Is there not a way to adjust the parallelism of the post??
Regards, Mark
?
I have to say the post is not 100% parallel in the whole range. Tightening the knob definitely tilts the steel post slightly.
James?
But is the post through the whole range parallel?
Regards, Mark
?
Mark,
There is not too much room to adjust the ceramic?guide after the knob is overtightened. Yes, the ceramic guide is parallel to the blade.
Slightly tightening the knob does not affect the quality of the cut.
James
Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade??
Regards, Mark
?
Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote:
After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would
check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
|
I just do not see how to adjust the parallelism of the post on FB510 which is really a simple machine, nothing fancy.
It does cut straight when the blade is properly installed, and the blade makes difference.
James
So you are saying that the Felder fb510 is not a precision machine and since that is the case the guide should not be parallel to the blade or be able to be adjusted parallel to the blade?? Regards, Mark ? At least, I do not know. IMO, the bandsaw is not really a precision machine,
James Is there not a way to adjust the parallelism of the post?? Regards, Mark ? I have to say the post is not 100% parallel in the whole range. Tightening the knob definitely tilts the steel post slightly.
James? But is the post through the whole range parallel? Regards, Mark ? Mark,
There is not too much room to adjust the ceramic?guide after the knob is overtightened. Yes, the ceramic guide is parallel to the blade.
Slightly tightening the knob does not affect the quality of the cut.
James Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade?? Regards, Mark ? Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote: After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
|
So you are saying that the Felder fb510 is not a precision machine and since that is the case the guide should not be parallel to the blade or be able to be adjusted parallel to the blade?? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 14, 2020, at 11:35 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? At least, I do not know. IMO, the bandsaw is not really a precision machine,
James Is there not a way to adjust the parallelism of the post?? Regards, Mark ? I have to say the post is not 100% parallel in the whole range. Tightening the knob definitely tilts the steel post slightly.
James? But is the post through the whole range parallel? Regards, Mark ? Mark,
There is not too much room to adjust the ceramic?guide after the knob is overtightened. Yes, the ceramic guide is parallel to the blade.
Slightly tightening the knob does not affect the quality of the cut.
James Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade?? Regards, Mark ? Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote: After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
|
Bill,
Since FB510 does not meet your expectations, sell it and buy a different brand maybe MiniMax / SCM.
You have Kappa slider, I think you should pair your?Kappa with a better bandsaw :)
James
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 11:58 PM Bill B¨¦langer < bllblngr@...> wrote: I agree James, it¡¯s just that I really like the bandsaw and this one is not performing. I¡¯m hoping that it¡¯s just me that can not fine tune this machine.? At least, I do not know. IMO, the bandsaw is not really a precision machine,
James Is there not a way to adjust the parallelism of the post?? Regards, Mark ? I have to say the post is not 100% parallel in the whole range. Tightening the knob definitely tilts the steel post slightly.
James? But is the post through the whole range parallel? Regards, Mark ? Mark,
There is not too much room to adjust the ceramic?guide after the knob is overtightened. Yes, the ceramic guide is parallel to the blade.
Slightly tightening the knob does not affect the quality of the cut.
James Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade?? Regards, Mark ? Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote: After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
|
Bill,
I would put the saw on a solid base or even put it on a couple of 2 x 4¡¯s for testing. ?During my testing, motor ran smooth by itself, and with belt on and lower wheel spinning. ? It even ran smooth with blade on and no guides touching. ?Do you have a dial indicator to check for run out? ? Have you tried different blades?
|
I agree James, it¡¯s just that I really like the bandsaw and this one is not performing. I¡¯m hoping that it¡¯s just me that can not fine tune this machine.?
At least, I do not know. IMO, the bandsaw is not really a precision machine,
James Is there not a way to adjust the parallelism of the post?? Regards, Mark ? I have to say the post is not 100% parallel in the whole range. Tightening the knob definitely tilts the steel post slightly.
James? But is the post through the whole range parallel? Regards, Mark ? Mark,
There is not too much room to adjust the ceramic?guide after the knob is overtightened. Yes, the ceramic guide is parallel to the blade.
Slightly tightening the knob does not affect the quality of the cut.
James Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade?? Regards, Mark ? Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote: After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
|
Thanks James. ? Maybe this brings peace of mind for me. ? I know that it is not a precision machine, but this should not be happening. ?The Felder tech was puzzled as well.
Have a great evening,
jay
|
Bill, if the wheel stopped at 12 a few times, I doubt the wheel is the main cause.? I don't think a magnet will stay in place when under power and that could wreck your blade if it is thrown off.? Can you feel any dimples on the back of the wheel that would
indicate balancing?? My old ( 1936 ) Oliver had a couple of screws with lead washers on it for balance.? It is a little out now but that is only evident as it starts or slows.? At speed it levels out.? My Yates is totally free of any vibration but that is
newer ( 1938 ).? Dave
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I spun the top wheel 13 times. 10 times it came to rest at 5-6-7 o¡¯clock. 3 times it stopped at 12. How much weight and what type of weight would I use??
Ran the motor alone, minimal vibration, not ?really smooth.?
This saw is sitting on the mobility device. I need to try it on a solid base tomorrow. That should help some.?
Bill Belanger?
Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade??
Regards, Mark
?
Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote:
After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would
check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
|
Jay,
I will try it and let you know tomorrow.
James
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 11:33 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote: James,
That is the knob that I am talking about and it does move the guide to the side. ? I snug that knob down and adjust the guides accordingly. ? If i go to tight, then it vibrates as shown in the video. ? I¡¯m curious if you tighten the knob if yours would vibrate the same? ??
|
At least, I do not know. IMO, the bandsaw is not really a precision machine,
James
Is there not a way to adjust the parallelism of the post?? Regards, Mark ? I have to say the post is not 100% parallel in the whole range. Tightening the knob definitely tilts the steel post slightly.
James? But is the post through the whole range parallel? Regards, Mark ? Mark,
There is not too much room to adjust the ceramic?guide after the knob is overtightened. Yes, the ceramic guide is parallel to the blade.
Slightly tightening the knob does not affect the quality of the cut.
James Adjusting the guides after the knob is tightened doesn¡¯t work? Is the guide parallel ?to the blade?? Regards, Mark ? Jay,
I am not sure what you mean about the upper guide clamp.
What I found is over-tightening the knob in the picture below pushes the steel guide with the attached ceramic guide to the left, which pushes the blade to the left. So I make sure not to overtighten the knob.?
On Fri, Feb 14, 2020 at 9:03 PM jay bodnar < jbod@...> wrote: After changing the wheel, bearings, tire, etc... the only thing that improved the vibration was to not tighten the upper guide clamp.? The recorded video posted was with the clamp tight. ? It is far less when you loosen the screw. ? The tech said that he would check for this on the one they had in the shop and later responded that it was the same. ??
The performance is barely acceptable and will live it for the time being.? It is a good thing I have a drum sander.?
I am glad to hear that you do not have the problem, I wish I could figure out the problem. ? The technician and I worked on the bandsaw for 8 hours, no success.
|
James,
That is the knob that I am talking about and it does move the guide to the side. ? I snug that knob down and adjust the guides accordingly. ? If i go to tight, then it vibrates as shown in the video. ? I¡¯m curious if you tighten the knob if yours would vibrate the same? ??
|
David P. Best
Jonathan Smith
Bill Belanger