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Re: CF741 Won't Start
Isn't there a little fuse on the bottom of the saw under the power switch? Dave On Fri, Jan 27, 2017 at 8:13 AM, Thomas Haar thhaar@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868 |
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CF741 Won't Start
I¡¯ve got a 2005 CF741SP with the 7.5 HP 3-phase motors hooked up to a PhasePerfect converter. I¡¯ve been using it for years in the same configuration. Everything was functioning normally as I planed a piece of wood and made a few cuts on the saw. When I tried to use the saw for another cut, it wouldn¡¯t start. I thought there might be an offcut jamming the blade, but that wasn¡¯t the case. I checked all the limit switches and they seemed fine. I twisted the function selector knob a few times, thinking it might not be making contact. When all that failed, I used the power switch to turn off the CF, then turned off the phase converter. I waited for several minutes and tried again, to no avail. I tried again this morning with everything off overnight, and no change.
The phase converter is working, because my RL160 and bandsaw work just fine. On the CF, the digital readouts light up, but the only thing electrical functioning is the up and down motion of the shaper. Selecting reverse for the shaper does not illuminate the yellow light. The PowerDrive for the planer does not work. I opened up the electrical panel on the CF and can see the green light on the Lenze VFD is on. When the CF main power switch is turned on, I get the usual high-pitched squeal and the humming of the VFD for a minute or two. The VFD does seem to hum (sounds like a fan) for longer than it used to on startup. As you can tell from the above, I¡¯m not much of an electrical expert. I¡¯d appreciate some insights and suggestions as to what to check. I¡¯m guessing that something isn¡¯t right with the Lenze VFD, or maybe the function selector switch might be bad. I can certainly give Felder a call, but I thought I¡¯d run this by the group. I know that others have had similar situations in the past, but I¡¯m having difficulty finding the old threads. Thanks for any help. Thomas |
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Re: lighting question
Hello all,
Since we remodel kitchens, here's our typical setup. ?Juno cans for area lighting, dependent on ceiling slope, counter, island, vent hood layout. ?Pendants over islands, under cabinet led's. ?Our preference for led's in Volt Lighting Group out of Tigard, Or. Tech Lighting makes darn nice pendants. ? On our last couple jobs, we used?Control 4 to manage the lighting profiles. ?Everything can be controlled from a switch,?phone, or iPad. ? The can and under cabinet led's need to be chosen AFTER the paint, cabinets, and tops?are installed to accommodate the customer's taste. ?We stay away from box store?lighting since we can't guarantee it. Recently upgraded our shop (T8) lighting to Topaz leds, they work quite well for us. Mike M.E. Blake General Contractors |
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Re: lighting question
Brian- The kitchen/house is a Mediterranean style and will be traditional cabinets and quartz countertops. ?The 9ft ceiling-drywall only one window over the sink. ?Preference is warm lighting but plentiful. ?He doesn't have any undercounter lighting but wonders if he should. ?Very much a gourmet cook, spends a lot of time in the kitchen.?
Also, thanks for everyone's info, it's pushed me into doing something about my shop lighting too. |
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New file uploaded to felder-woodworking
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the felder-woodworking group. File : /Manuals/About 7z Files Uploaded by : mstuber <garrisonstuber@...> Description : Instructions for downloading and uncompressing 7z files You can access this file at the URL: To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: Regards, mstuber <garrisonstuber@...> |
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Re: lighting question
patrick walsh
Brian,
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I came across ththis lucifer zero sightline cans when i was doing?research on low profile IC rated Led's. I also came across i think it was Pure Lightings?strip LED?light that as you stated?also recess right into the ceiling also with no visible?housing bellow the plaster line.? I thought both were very very nice, and quite?expensive but isnt anything quality and nice these days. I opted out of them for a aesthetic reason. My house is a old Sears kit home Arts and Crafts bungalow and my master sweet is going to be finished off with simple trim and furnishing for the most part in the shaker style. I thought the contempory nature of the trimless cans would be way to modern a look for my application. Regardless when i found those fixtures i found myself wish and looking for a application for them. On Thursday, January 26, 2017, brian@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: lighting question
That is a really big topic to try and fit into 25 words or less.
Price no object is an interesting wrinkle as well. Super modern or traditional? Why don't you guys formulate some questions, but starting with the basics you need to first decide the basic lighting tools you will use.? Lets start with recessed lighting, still the most common way to light a kitchen. The cost will not relate to the quality of light itself but to the look and presentation of the light fixture. Best bang-to-buck I know of is Lightolier L3. The most expensive I use, and I use them by the hundred, is the $750usd per can Lucifer Zero Sightline square flush in wood or GWB fixture, where the fixture is plastered in and the ceiling is perfectly flat without any trim flanges. Number 8 lighting is also common. If that isn't fancy enough Specialty Lighting makes a flush flangeless fixture for wood with a wood insert trim. You ship them the wood you're putting on the ceiling and they CNC it into a fixture trim so when you are done you see continuous planks and fixtures in the same wood.? In my house I'm going with the L3 fixture. Another way we go sometimes is to run continuous flush strips of light, 1" or 2" wide by however long. Look great in a very modern house, see Pure Lighting's Dots and Dashes series for that. Can you establish some parameters? Brian(J) |
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Re: FD250
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI know of no setup issues with the Profil related to the Bowmould. ?As to the fence, I used a piece of hard maple with a cutout for the bit. ?I fastened the maple to the fence with the same screws that hold the Aigner fence in place. ?I countersunk the same nuts. ?I had about 1/8th inch of purchase of the nut to the screw. ?The maple was about 1 inch thick. Gary Blasingame 195 Red Fox Run Athens, Georgia 30605 706-353-8629 706-540-2130 (cell) On Jan 25, 2017, at 5:18 PM, John jmkserv@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: KF700S Professional
When I asked my sales guy to email me the KF700sp manual before delivery, he said the files are too big to be sent via email. He said I can get it when I go to their office. I have not been in their office yet. I do not think reading manual without machine in the shop helps anyway. And the manual is not well written either. James On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 7:25 PM Jay Runde jrunde@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: FD250
GLEN
I would like to hear what you think of the Musclechuck when you get it, It might be a workable option.
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I will look at Sommerfeld bits as its time to start a new collection, mine are older than dirt Glen -----Original Message----- From: 'Bill White' wildcoach@... [felder-woodworking] To: felder-woodworking Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 10:46 am Subject: RE: [felder-woodworking] FD250
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Whoops, fat fingers hit the enter key before I finished!
To continue¡ It is my understanding, but I have yet to confirm with actual use, that the musclechuck will allow the use of a hard spacer as it does not snug down the bit in order to apply pressure to keep the bit in place. I have ordered one for my Triton router and look forward to testing it out. BTW, I really recommend the router bit sets from Sommerfeld as they are designed to be the same height so there is no need to make adjustments when changing bits. I use my router spindle in my KF700SP more than my router table for the very same reasons others have expressed (flat surface, no flex in the fence or sliding table, etc). Even though the spindle speed is a little slower, I use my power feeder (Co-Matic DC-40) to feed most of my stock and the results have been fantastic so far. Warmly, Bill From: felder-woodworking@... [mailto:felder-woodworking@...] Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:38 AM To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: RE: [felder-woodworking] FD250 Glen, If I may disagree with you regarding the use of a dowel as a spacer in the chuck. A typical chuck, when tightening, causes the bit to ¡°snug down¡± in the collet in order to allow the collet to apply the proper pressure on the bit to keep it in place and snug. The chuck actually brings the height of the bit down as it tightens up. Putting a hard spacer such as a dowel will interfere with the chuck¡¯s ability to snug down the bit Ask me how I know!!! I had a router bit float up in the chuck during a job and ruined a lot of wood when I put a dowel in the chuck. I called Marc Sommerfeld and he informed me that the dowel prevented the chuck from From: felder-woodworking@... [mailto:felder-woodworking@...] Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 12:25 AM To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250 Glen, Regards programing data with a router cutter. If a router cutter will not bottom out you could use a small spacer between the bottom of the chuck and the end of the cutter, a small piece of dowel would do the job. Normally when I'm using the router spindle I'm making a very short run of a moulding, and i will not have to ever recreate it so I don't generally keep a log. The only log I've got for the router are for old cmt cope and stick cutters. they give a great finish when used with the power feed. Im generally using Tulip wood for doors, naturally if you use a harder wood you could end with scorching on such a small diameter cutter. Jonathan On 24 January 2017 at 06:51, GLEN chris3645@... <mailto:chris3645@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote: OK David Thank you for you being you and everyone else here. I am learning so much from you all I will make the road trip up and just pick up yours. LOL That is a really nice setup and I will total dig in to your pictures and build one I would really like to come up and meet you this summer, and I do have something to bring you. What I need to be doing is getting my final drawings in to design review for the building but I am hooked on this group and learning a wealth of information After all the bad things I have went through as you know, this has been a dream of mine for many years and its going to happen, and I have to say with you and everyone input my error rate will be alot lower, My little town is even helping to make this a reality. and as my my my mentor Christine may she rest in peace wanted me to do this because she knew my talent and what I wanted to do in my retirement and I want her to know that I did. Glen -----Original Message----- From: 'david@bestservices IMAP 2' david@... <mailto:david@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > To: rcorselli@... <mailto:rcorselli@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2017 6:30 am Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250 Glen, I¡¯m not a fan of the router spindle either. Why don¡¯t you just build (or buy) yourself one of these - probably half the cost of a router spindle: David Best On Jan 22, 2017, at 10:46 PM, GLEN chris3645@... <mailto:chris3645@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote: Well I dont have my shaper yet but I bit the bullet and just got all three, not because iI need them but because of frustration when I cant buy a cutter head because I don't have the right spindle This is how I understand it..... but I don't know anything yet 30 mill is a standard EURO cutter 1.25 mil is a standard US cutter Spindle shaper I can use simple 1/2 inch router cutters for small tasks as a round over Again I dont know what I m talking about but we will find out when my machine arrives -----Original Message----- From: patrick walsh pwalsh651@... <mailto:pwalsh651@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > To: felder-woodworking woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > Sent: Sun, Jan 22, 2017 7:30 am Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250 I had thought about end mill bits. I also noticed the rangate cutters. Also Mac i looked into the cutter you suggested. It looks to me to be a quality square chisel mortising bit. I am pretty sure i need a specific chuck to use such a cutter on my FD250. I originaly started purchasing most of my machines for hobby use with the hopes that beung a finish carpenter " i would use them if i had them" to make a living. This has increasingly become my experience. Kinda a "if you build it they will come" mentality. Point is as the work requires i keep crossing bridges and or running into impasses and or finding new useses and applications for my equiptment. Point in mentioning is as im sure we all know it can at times be very costly. As of late i have been using my shaper a ton. As Mac suggested in my dust collector thread sometimes its one step forward three steps back.At The moment it sure feels that way. With this current project i can get the client to assume at least half the cost of tooling if not the full cost. I do need to resonible though hence a end mill bit maybe being a better solution for me than a a square mortise bit as then i also need a pricey chuck. I can charge the bit to the customer but the chuck would be difficult. Im having the same problme with shaper tooling. I only have a 30mm spindle. I keep running into instances where i need a specific cutter like tomorrow. Everything ends up being 1.25 that can be had in days as apposed to weeks. The end result is shims. Inthe short long term i just need to piny up the $500 for a 1.25 spindle. The only problem is it is really never ending. After the 1.25 spindle i could use high speed router spindle. After that another shaper as having only one is a pita! As much as i love tools "and i do" it can become quite stressful how much all this stuff cost. Sorry for the rant just offering some perspective on the situatuion. Really for the moment i just need the least expensive solution to getting my machine to cut a straight clean mortise so i can get this dam kitchen built. Long term my shop can use many many additional tools assesories and upgrades. On Sunday, January 22, 2017, andy.giddings@... <mailto:andy.giddings@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote: Think Mac is spot on based on my experience with the Mortise Attachment. I assumed that the Westccot chuck would be concentric to the spindle, but its very sensitive to the 3 grub screws that lock it onto the spindle (don't know if the FD250 has the same locking method). If the fixture is the same, its very important to adjust the screws evenly while using an accurate bar or dowel in the chuck with a height/dial gauge. Once I had that sorted out, the birdsmouth cutters performed better. I also found that the Felder cutters were not that sharp - the Rangate cutters are far better out of the box. You might also want to try end mills or two fluted router bits - cut a lot quicker and just as smoothly even with the lower speed compared to a router -- Jonathan Samways <; [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: FD250
GLEN
Hi Bill
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This makes total sense to me now that I remember setting a bit hand tight to the height I needed and the after tightening down it was off. I am really questioning the high speed spindle for several reasons such as if I remember the max speed is 14000 rpm, The issue that the ag fence cant be moved back far enough for small cutters. I asked Felder about this and I never really got an answer.I am starting to lean towards making a router table like David Best made, That is one nice setup and movable So does anyone know how close I can get the fence to the CL of the spindle shaft, I just assumed it would zero out on dead center line. I really need to stop just assuming things , Glen -----Original Message----- From: 'Bill White' wildcoach@... [felder-woodworking] To: felder-woodworking Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 10:38 am Subject: RE: [felder-woodworking] FD250
?
Glen,
If I may disagree with you regarding the use of a dowel as a spacer in the chuck. A typical chuck, when tightening, causes the bit to ¡°snug down¡± in the collet in order to allow the collet to apply the proper pressure on the bit to keep it in place and snug. The chuck actually brings the height of the bit down as it tightens up. Putting a hard spacer such as a dowel will interfere with the chuck¡¯s ability to snug down the bit Ask me how I know!!! I had a router bit float up in the chuck during a job and ruined a lot of wood when I put a dowel in the chuck. I called Marc Sommerfeld and he informed me that the dowel prevented the chuck from From: felder-woodworking@... [mailto:felder-woodworking@...] Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 12:25 AM To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250 Glen, Regards programing data with a router cutter. If a router cutter will not bottom out you could use a small spacer between the bottom of the chuck and the end of the cutter, a small piece of dowel would do the job. Normally when I'm using the router spindle I'm making a very short run of a moulding, and i will not have to ever recreate it so I don't generally keep a log. The only log I've got for the router are for old cmt cope and stick cutters. they give a great finish when used with the power feed. Im generally using Tulip wood for doors, naturally if you use a harder wood you could end with scorching on such a small diameter cutter. Jonathan On 24 January 2017 at 06:51, GLEN chris3645@... <mailto:chris3645@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote: OK David Thank you for you being you and everyone else here. I am learning so much from you all I will make the road trip up and just pick up yours. LOL That is a really nice setup and I will total dig in to your pictures and build one I would really like to come up and meet you this summer, and I do have something to bring you. What I need to be doing is getting my final drawings in to design review for the building but I am hooked on this group and learning a wealth of information After all the bad things I have went through as you know, this has been a dream of mine for many years and its going to happen, and I have to say with you and everyone input my error rate will be alot lower, My little town is even helping to make this a reality. and as my my my mentor Christine may she rest in peace wanted me to do this because she knew my talent and what I wanted to do in my retirement and I want her to know that I did. Glen -----Original Message----- From: 'david@bestservices IMAP 2' david@... <mailto:david@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > To: rcorselli@... <mailto:rcorselli@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2017 6:30 am Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250 Glen, I¡¯m not a fan of the router spindle either. Why don¡¯t you just build (or buy) yourself one of these - probably half the cost of a router spindle: David Best On Jan 22, 2017, at 10:46 PM, GLEN chris3645@... <mailto:chris3645@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote: Well I dont have my shaper yet but I bit the bullet and just got all three, not because iI need them but because of frustration when I cant buy a cutter head because I don't have the right spindle This is how I understand it..... but I don't know anything yet 30 mill is a standard EURO cutter 1.25 mil is a standard US cutter Spindle shaper I can use simple 1/2 inch router cutters for small tasks as a round over Again I dont know what I m talking about but we will find out when my machine arrives -----Original Message----- From: patrick walsh pwalsh651@... <mailto:pwalsh651@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > To: felder-woodworking woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > Sent: Sun, Jan 22, 2017 7:30 am Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250 I had thought about end mill bits. I also noticed the rangate cutters. Also Mac i looked into the cutter you suggested. It looks to me to be a quality square chisel mortising bit. I am pretty sure i need a specific chuck to use such a cutter on my FD250. I originaly started purchasing most of my machines for hobby use with the hopes that beung a finish carpenter " i would use them if i had them" to make a living. This has increasingly become my experience. Kinda a "if you build it they will come" mentality. Point is as the work requires i keep crossing bridges and or running into impasses and or finding new useses and applications for my equiptment. Point in mentioning is as im sure we all know it can at times be very costly. As of late i have been using my shaper a ton. As Mac suggested in my dust collector thread sometimes its one step forward three steps back.At The moment it sure feels that way. With this current project i can get the client to assume at least half the cost of tooling if not the full cost. I do need to resonible though hence a end mill bit maybe being a better solution for me than a a square mortise bit as then i also need a pricey chuck. I can charge the bit to the customer but the chuck would be difficult. Im having the same problme with shaper tooling. I only have a 30mm spindle. I keep running into instances where i need a specific cutter like tomorrow. Everything ends up being 1.25 that can be had in days as apposed to weeks. The end result is shims. Inthe short long term i just need to piny up the $500 for a 1.25 spindle. The only problem is it is really never ending. After the 1.25 spindle i could use high speed router spindle. After that another shaper as having only one is a pita! As much as i love tools "and i do" it can become quite stressful how much all this stuff cost. Sorry for the rant just offering some perspective on the situatuion. Really for the moment i just need the least expensive solution to getting my machine to cut a straight clean mortise so i can get this dam kitchen built. Long term my shop can use many many additional tools assesories and upgrades. On Sunday, January 22, 2017, andy.giddings@... <mailto:andy.giddings@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote: Think Mac is spot on based on my experience with the Mortise Attachment. I assumed that the Westccot chuck would be concentric to the spindle, but its very sensitive to the 3 grub screws that lock it onto the spindle (don't know if the FD250 has the same locking method). If the fixture is the same, its very important to adjust the screws evenly while using an accurate bar or dowel in the chuck with a height/dial gauge. Once I had that sorted out, the birdsmouth cutters performed better. I also found that the Felder cutters were not that sharp - the Rangate cutters are far better out of the box. You might also want to try end mills or two fluted router bits - cut a lot quicker and just as smoothly even with the lower speed compared to a router -- Jonathan Samways <; [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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New file uploaded to felder-woodworking
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the felder-woodworking group. File : /Manuals/700 Series Parts Manual (vers 10_2005).pdf Uploaded by : mstuber <garrisonstuber@...> Description : You can access this file at the URL: To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: Regards, mstuber <garrisonstuber@...> |
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Re: KF700S Professional
I have one on order as well. I'll send you an email with the manual shortly. From: "Jay Runde jrunde@... [felder-woodworking]" To: "felder-woodworking@..." Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:25 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] KF700S Professional
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I have a KF700S Professional on order.? Does anyone know where I can get a PDF version of the manual.? I asked my sales person a week ago and haven't heard back. Jay
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Re: KF700S Professional
GLEN
I would like to get one too for the machines I have on order, I am sure there is a lot of reading I could be doing ahead of time to learn what to expect when they come
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G -----Original Message----- From: Jay Runde jrunde@... [felder-woodworking] To: felder-woodworking Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 4:25 pm Subject: [felder-woodworking] KF700S Professional
?
I have a KF700S Professional on order.? Does anyone know where I can get a PDF version of the manual.? I asked my sales person a week ago and haven't heard back.
Jay
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Re: FD250
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýGary's if memory serves me right the whole shaper fence mechanism tips up on an angle. By doing this could you use an aftermarket fence adapted to the hole pattern. Also for you or anyone that uses the Aigner Bowmould, is there any setup issues on the Profile.? John JMK Services? -------- Original message --------
From: "Gary Blasingame gbblasin@... [felder-woodworking]" <felder-woodworking@...> Date: 2017-01-25 12:08 PM (GMT-05:00) To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250 ? If you remove the Aigner fence on the Profil x motion and make a wooden fence it will handle a small router bit. ?I recently did this to use a custom bit to cut a bead on replacement siding for a 17th century house. Gary Blasingame 195 Red Fox Run Athens, Georgia 30605 706-353-8629 706-540-2130 (cell) On Jan 24, 2017, at 8:21 AM, Bellsouth dohertyj@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: FD250
David, Nice! I recalled I have seen it on your website somewhere before. I do not have the router spindle. This is a lovely router system plus the MuscleChuck, and sliding table/crosscut fence with DRO. Thanks, James On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 2:04 PM, 'david@bestservices IMAP 2' david@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
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Re: FD250
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOK, just couldn¡¯t resist this blast from the past. ? I posted a document in the files section on how to adapt a fixed-base handheld router to the shaper spindle recess on the KF700 and F700 machines. ? in the FOG files section it¡¯s named?Router Adapter System for Felder KF F700.pdf? This idea could easily be adapted to the Profil 45. ? I can hear some eyes rolling out there. ? LOLHere¡¯s a direct link to it. ?Enjoy. ??? David Best
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David P. Best
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