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It is my understanding, but I have yet to confirm with actual use, that the musclechuck will allow the use of a hard spacer as it does not snug down the bit in order to apply pressure to keep the bit in place.

I have ordered one for my Triton router and look forward to testing it out.

BTW, I really recommend the router bit sets from Sommerfeld as they are designed to be the same height so there is no need to make adjustments when changing bits.

I use my router spindle in my KF700SP more than my router table for the very same reasons others have expressed (flat surface, no flex in the fence or sliding table, etc). Even though the spindle speed is a little slower, I use my power feeder (Co-Matic DC-40) to feed most of my stock and the results have been fantastic so far.

Warmly,

Bill

From: felder-woodworking@... [mailto:felder-woodworking@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:38 AM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: RE: [felder-woodworking] FD250

Glen,

If I may disagree with you regarding the use of a dowel as a spacer in the chuck. A typical chuck, when tightening, causes the bit to “snug down” in the collet in order to allow the collet to apply the proper pressure on the bit to keep it in place and snug. The chuck actually brings the height of the bit down as it tightens up. Putting a hard spacer such as a dowel will interfere with the chuck’s ability to snug down the bit

Ask me how I know!!! I had a router bit float up in the chuck during a job and ruined a lot of wood when I put a dowel in the chuck. I called Marc Sommerfeld and he informed me that the dowel prevented the chuck from

From: felder-woodworking@... [mailto:felder-woodworking@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 12:25 AM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250

Glen,

Regards programing data with a router cutter.

If a router cutter will not bottom out you could use a small spacer between the bottom of the chuck and the end of the cutter, a small piece of dowel would do the job.

Normally when I'm using the router spindle I'm making a very short run of a moulding, and i will not have to ever recreate it so I don't generally keep a log.

The only log I've got for the router are for old cmt cope and stick cutters. they give a great finish when used with the power feed.

Im generally using Tulip wood for doors, naturally if you use a harder wood you could end with scorching on such a small diameter cutter.

Jonathan

On 24 January 2017 at 06:51, GLEN chris3645@... <mailto:chris3645@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote:

OK David
Thank you for you being you and everyone else here. I am learning so much from you all
I will make the road trip up and just pick up yours. LOL That is a really nice setup and I will total dig in to your pictures and build one
I would really like to come up and meet you this summer, and I do have something to bring you.

What I need to be doing is getting my final drawings in to design review for the building but I am hooked on this group and learning a wealth of information

After all the bad things I have went through as you know, this has been a dream of mine for many years and its going to happen, and I have to say with you and everyone input my error rate will be alot lower, My little town is even helping to make this a reality. and as my my my mentor Christine may she rest in peace wanted me to do this because she knew my talent and what I wanted to do in my retirement and I want her to know that I did.

Glen

-----Original Message-----
From: 'david@bestservices IMAP 2' david@... <mailto:david@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; >
To: rcorselli@... <mailto:rcorselli@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; >
Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2017 6:30 am
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250

Glen, I’m not a fan of the router spindle either. Why don’t you just build (or buy) yourself one of these - probably half the cost of a router spindle:



David Best

On Jan 22, 2017, at 10:46 PM, GLEN chris3645@... <mailto:chris3645@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote:

Well I dont have my shaper yet but I bit the bullet and just got all three, not because iI need them but because of frustration when I cant buy a cutter head because I don't have the right spindle
This is how I understand it..... but I don't know anything yet
30 mill is a standard EURO cutter
1.25 mil is a standard US cutter
Spindle shaper I can use simple 1/2 inch router cutters for small tasks as a round over

Again I dont know what I m talking about but we will find out when my machine arrives

-----Original Message-----
From: patrick walsh pwalsh651@... <mailto:pwalsh651@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; >
To: felder-woodworking woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; >
Sent: Sun, Jan 22, 2017 7:30 am
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] FD250

I had thought about end mill bits.

I also noticed the rangate cutters.

Also Mac i looked into the cutter you suggested. It looks to me to be a quality square chisel mortising bit. I am pretty sure i need a specific chuck to use such a cutter on my FD250.

I originaly started purchasing most of my machines for hobby use with the hopes that beung a finish carpenter " i would use them if i had them" to make a living. This has increasingly become my experience. Kinda a "if you build it they will come" mentality.

Point is as the work requires i keep crossing bridges and or running into impasses and or finding new useses and applications for my equiptment. Point in mentioning is as im sure we all know it can at times be very costly. As of late i have been using my shaper a ton. As Mac suggested in my dust collector thread sometimes its one step forward three steps back.At The moment it sure feels that way.

With this current project i can get the client to assume at least half the cost of tooling if not the full cost. I do need to resonible though hence a end mill bit maybe being a better solution for me than a a square mortise bit as then i also need a pricey chuck. I can charge the bit to the customer but the chuck would be difficult.

Im having the same problme with shaper tooling. I only have a 30mm spindle. I keep running into instances where i need a specific cutter like tomorrow. Everything ends up being 1.25 that can be had in days as apposed to weeks. The end result is shims. Inthe short long term i just need to piny up the $500 for a 1.25 spindle.

The only problem is it is really never ending. After the 1.25 spindle i could use high speed router spindle. After that another shaper as having only one is a pita!

As much as i love tools "and i do" it can become quite stressful how much all this stuff cost.

Sorry for the rant just offering some perspective on the situatuion. Really for the moment i just need the least expensive solution to getting my machine to cut a straight clean mortise so i can get this dam kitchen built.

Long term my shop can use many many additional tools assesories and upgrades.

On Sunday, January 22, 2017, andy.giddings@... <mailto:andy.giddings@...>; [felder-woodworking] woodworking@... <mailto:felder-woodworking@...>; > wrote:

Think Mac is spot on based on my experience with the Mortise Attachment. I assumed that the Westccot chuck would be concentric to the spindle, but its very sensitive to the 3 grub screws that lock it onto the spindle (don't know if the FD250 has the same locking method). If the fixture is the same, its very important to adjust the screws evenly while using an accurate bar or dowel in the chuck with a height/dial gauge.

Once I had that sorted out, the birdsmouth cutters performed better. I also found that the Felder cutters were not that sharp - the Rangate cutters are far better out of the box. You might also want to try end mills or two fluted router bits - cut a lot quicker and just as smoothly even with the lower speed compared to a router

--

Jonathan Samways

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