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Can't Read files with .doc extension
Richard McComas
Help! I can't view any of the files in the vault that use the " .doc
" file extension. I can read all the e-mail, text files and view all the .JPG files but when I double click a file with the .doc extension, the task bar at the bottom indicates it opening the file, reads it and says document done but nothing appears on my screen. Also my screen the become inactive until I use the back button . Its like everything is working the way it should but the text doesn't appear on screen. Rich |
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new files in Vault
John Renzetti
I've just uploaded some files to the vault. One was an article on
installing Air Handling systems metal ductwork. There are a couple of jpgs showing how I wired a single phase quick disconnect and a 3ph QD. Also a wiring diagram I drew up for a simple connection of the phaseconverter. And their there is the WD from the Kay Industries manual, showing wire sizes, etc. |
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Re: E-mails in HTML format
Geoff Shepherd
Dave - we're almost neighbors. I'm in Everett, and visited a friend who has
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a BF6-21 in Seattle today. Hmm... I predict a Northwest F.O.G. BBQ sometime this summer. Your comment regarding Plain Text vs. HTML is a good one, and it is an issue on every e-mail list server I've subscribed to. I noticed my subscription profile on the eGroups site lets me specify whether my e-mail program is HTML-compatible or Plain Text only. Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to translate the messages one-way or another. I'll ask eGroups management about it. For those who aren't sure what we're talking about, here's a brief summary of the situation. Way back when at the dawn of time, e-mails were sent as plain text - no color, no fancy fonts, no animated banner ads, etc. A couple years ago or so Microsoft and Netscape introduced new versions of their e-mail programs that allowed sending e-mails formatted like web pages with lots of different fonts and colorful text (instead of just colorful language). They thought this was such a C00L THING, they decided to make it the default format for sending e-mail with these new programs. Unfortunately, everyone with the older programs and other special situations get to see all the ugly HTML codes for fancy fonts and colors as just a bunch of gobbledygook mixed in with the text of the e-mail. What a mess. (Note: file attachments are even worse! Use the Vault instead...) The best we can hope for is to meet somewhere in the middle. Those of us who can should upgrade to the latest version e-mail programs - and that's not a bad idea security-wise as well (OK, depending on one's perspective). The rest of us should be polite and send e-mails to this group as "Plain Text" only. Most e-mail programs have a way to set the format for outgoing messages. In recent versions of Outlook Express it is on the Send tab of the Options window under the Tools menu. Other programs/versions differ slightly. Look for a "Plain Text" vs. "HTML" option... check the help file if you can't find it. If there's no mention of it in the help file, chances are you're e-mail program doesn't send HTML format to begin with, so there's nothing to worry about. This e-mail was sent as Plain Text. No electrons were harmed in its making. -- Geoff Shepherd (list manager) ----- Original Message -----
From: Julie/David McCulloch <jdmcc@...> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 5:58 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] E-mails in HTML format Hi folks,you could please disable that function and send in plain text I would be veryfiles in my e-mail program (Eudora Pro 4.) |
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Re: BF6-31 Question
Geoff Shepherd
Thanks to Paul, Seth, and Charlie for input on my "to fence or not to fence"
question for wide jointing on the BF6-31. I tried surface planing a 12" wide board today without the fence with excellent results and felt perfectly safe (using the bridge-guard and two push-blocks). Wander wasn't a problem as long as I proceeded with caution. So, I guess it's pretty much a non-issue! ..Geoff |
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Re: Congratulations to the group!
Geoff Shepherd
Art -
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I'll echo your sentiments about the new forum - even I didn't expect it to just jump to life so quickly like this, and I'm one of those "the glass is half full" types. Not sure why your previous messages vaporized... make sure you are sending your posts to felder-woodworking@... .. if your e-mail program has a "sent items" folder, you might be able to examine the messages that didn't make it to see if that was the cause. In any case, we're hearing you now, so you're doing something right. You can always post via the group web page if all else fails. To start a new paragraph (like I just did), just hit your Enter (or Return) key twice or thrice. Unfortunately, some e-mail programs try to be "helpful" by joining everything together because so many people habitually hit return at the end of each line like on a typewriter. Sounds like you're off to a running start in serious woodworking, and thanks for the tip on making tenons... I think I'll order that rebate head on my next order. Also thinking about the multi-profile knife head, but not sure what size would be best. So, are you going to post a picture of your completed (and maybe in-progress) projects? I would be very interested in seeing them. ..Geoff ----- Original Message -----
From: Art Pentz <ahpnc@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 7:33 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Congratulations to the group! Hi there! I'm not having much luck posting to this group - four(snip) |
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Re: BF6-31 Question
I have the cast iron extension that I've used to mount the fence for
surfacing wide boards. You're right, you can do it without the fence, but I like the safety aspect of using the fence. I only takes a couple seconds to mount the extension. An interesting sidelight on the extension. It has two scales on it, a metric scale and one that looks as if it may be an inch scale, but it's not. I don't know what it's supposed to be. If it was supposed to be an inch scale they really screwed up. I first noticed it when I was ripping a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood and put the extension on so I could mount the fence off the side of the planer outfeed table. I was using the inch scale, and after sawing my dimension was off. When I checked the scale on the extension with my tape measure the metric scales lined up, but the inch was way off. Larry Johnson |
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Re: BF7-41 jointer/planer question
PAUL LAPIERRE
开云体育Hi John,
I have checked the belt, and it is not slipping. I've taken
the springs from no tension to almost max compression- the best I can get is
slight movement. I'm sure there is a solution, but I'm not finding it. I hate to
call John on his day off, and maybe I won't, but I'll take his cell phone number
just in case I can't resolve this. Many thanks,
Paul?
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Re: BF7-41 jointer/planer question
Seth Honeyman
开云体育Hi Paul,
?
Have you lubricated or waxed the platen recently?? I had
a similar problem some years ago with my Inca jointer/planer which suddenly just
quit feeding.? After a whole lot of headscratching and much desperation, I
put what seemed like a half can of Waxi-lit on the platen and voila, it was
feeding like a charm.? In the Inca's case, at least, the very smooth platen
and partially surfaced board produced enough drag to overcome the feed
mechanism.
?
Seth
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E-mails in HTML format
Hi folks,
I have just signed onto the Felder list serve and have enjoyed seeing the photos and comments by the group. John R. thanks for e-mailing me the 5-sided cut. It was very helpful in setting up my crosscut fence. A polite request about e-mailing. Some folks that have their e-mail programs "preferences setting" default to sending messages in HTML. If you could please disable that function and send in plain text I would be very grateful. I have to boot up Netscape to read these messages and also have to be on line to read your messages. I also can't save these type of files in my e-mail program (Eudora Pro 4.) Thanks, David P.S. I have a BF 6-41, sold all my other machines to get this. David McCulloch Port Townsend, WA 360-385-3912 jdmcc@... |
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Re: BF7-41 jointer/planer question
John Renzetti
开云体育Paul,?? Try tightening down
those feed roller springs just a little more. If it starts to pull you;ve
tightened one side too much. The other problem is that the feed belt could be
slipping. Have you tried to check that. I;ve got John's cell phone no. do you
want that.
Take care,
John
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BF7-41 jointer/planer question
PAUL LAPIERRE
开云体育Hello everyone,
Before I get to my question, I'd like to say thanks to Geoff
for getting this forum going. No doubt this will be a really popular
place.
Secondly, I recently posted a message on Badger Pond having to
do with a alignment problem on my jointer after having moved it . Thanks to
Charlie, John R., and Geoff for your input and advice. So far the solution seems
to be re-adjusting the machine if necessary whenever the thing is moved. Not the
best of all possible solutions, but there it is. The response to my posting was
very quick on the part of Felder USA. Wolfgang called me at about 9AM my time to
try to solve the problem. After?checking the tightness of some bolts and
set screws, and further discussion with John Hartschorn, the immediate solution
is as stated above.John will be coming to my shop after the?Mid-Atlantic
show to thoroughly check out my machine. I have to say, the folks at Felder USA
make every effort to make things right!
OK, now for today's problem. This?is probably related to
having moved the machine also. because ever since the planer has not fed stock
very well, if at all. I've spoken with John H. and he gave me the set-up specs
for the in-and out-feed rollers and for the compression springs above
them.?The rollers were at their correct settings and I've set the springs
as per John's recommendation, but the #%@$ thing still won't feed. I've adjusted
the spring tension in very small increments, and it comes close to feeding, but
I still end up pushing? and pulling the stock through. It's Saturday, I
can't get ahold of John, I'm in the middle of work that has to be delivered next
Friday and I'm really frustrated. Anyone out there had a similar problem, or any
ideas? that I haven't tried? You have my eternal gratitude and a free
dinner if you have a solution that works.
Thanks to all, and I look forward to meeting some of you 9in
the future
?Regards Paul??
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Re: Cutting dados
Joel Cohen
I bought the Hersaf bits and they have done a good job. Not quite the
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quality of my old Firrest Daodo blade. Joel -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd [SMTP:geoff@...] Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 12:20 AM To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: [felder-woodworking] Cutting dados The following is a digest of a relatively recent thread on cutting dados using Felder equipment. The original messages are separated by the double-hyphen mark. Sorry if I got any of the original author's names mixed up - I tried to copy these posts verbatim from my e-mail archive. By reposting this thread in the new forum, it will be accessible in the message archives at the forum's web site. ..Geoff -- From: John Renzetti Could any of you guys give me some info on how you cut dadoes. Do you use the saw, the shaper, or another piece of equipment altogether. I'd like to compare ideas. Thanks, John Renzetti -- From: arnoldman John, I use the saw, with the splitter lowered below the level of the blade top, and "nibble away" the dado if it's only about 3/8" or narrower. For wider dadoes, I use the high speed spindle with a straight cutting router bit, and the saw/jointer fence. Chuck -- From: James Voos This is the only thing I miss from my Delta Unisaw. I have used the high speed spindle with some CMT straight cutting bits, but I would say I have been less than thrilled with the results. For dadoes close to an edge, I have used the slot cutter on the shaper, which gives a very nice result. The folks at Felder recommend I pick up some panel routing bits from Hersaf in Atascadero, CA but I haven't done it as of yet. Certainly requires a bigger investment in bits, compared with the various shimming options that a dado blade provides. The other option, of course is to use a router with a cross cut guide. I thought you still had your Unisaw. Did that go away? jim -- From: Taylor John, Haven't got around to that yet. I must say, that was a major disappointment to learn that a dado blade could not be used on the Felder. Tom @ Felder told me, last year, there was a local machine shop that would mill a slot in the edge of the siding table to provide clearance for a dado blade. That would be a tuff option to swallow for me. Perhaps I'll try the Hersaf router bits that you told me about when I get to crossing that bridge? Would love to hear of any miracle ideas on this, too. best regards, taylor -- From: APGAR, Lee, GCM I have yet to take delivery of the machines that I ordered at the phiily show. I ordered the KF-7 x and the AD 7-51 and was told specifically that i would be able to use a dado setup..........hmmmmm! -- From: Charlie Norton This is embarrassing, but I have been cutting dadoes two ways: 1) With multiple passes of the saw blade. I know, I know, it is crude, takes forever and is prone to error, but for vertical dadoes, it is the only method I have used so far (for vertical dadoes). 2) For horizontal dadoes, I am using the Felder (Leitz) Adjustable Groover on the shaper. This works well, although I would suggest using the safety plates that drop down between the infeed and outfeed fence halves. I do not yet have this option (or the fence that is required) and I think it would reduce the scare factor when performing these cuts. I will probably get the Hersaf bits at some point for vertical cuts. Good Luck! Charlie Norton -- From: Geoff Shepherd John - For a clever router & guide rail approach, check out the "Fractioning Baseplate" idea in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. I plan to try it. It basically multiplies your straight bit collection by a factor of four... ever try to shim a straight bit to make it a little wider? In effect, that's what this setup does. Check it out. While I do have a Forrest Dado-King (8"), I won't be able to use it on my BF6-31. I plan to move to router-made dado's using the high-speed spindle or a hand-held router as appropriate. I can always fall back on my Shopsmith if I really want to fire up the dado set, and there may be times where that will be useful so as not to disturb a particular setup on the Felder. ...Geoff (anxiously awaiting my BF6-31... and I will have my combined combination shop finally... hopefully this Sunday.) -- From: dolsid John: I have several ways. For stopped dados I use a plunge router with a jig consisting of a piece of 3/4 inch hard wood glued to 1/4 inch plywood. Guide the router base along the 3/4 wood with the bit of your choice to cut the plywood to size. Remember which side of the router is next to the guide since your base may not be centered. Use the edge of the plywood to position your dado. This jig can be used with a regular router for a ordinary dado. I use a router bit on the Felder router spindle when the precise depth is important. Also I have the option on the Felder for the dado. It is 3/8 of inch wide and you have to have your dado set drilled out to fit the 30mm arbor. I just got my dado set and made a bank insert so will try it out and let you know how it works. It is narrow but should work well for non-router bit widths and deep dados. I also have a Joint Tech fence on a router table which great when precise horizontal locations are needed. I will probably get a slot cutter for the shaper when I need to make very wide and deep dados(slots) e.g.. 2 inch by 3 inch. Finally I saved my regular CMT dado set and can use it on a regular table saw. -- From: Mike Crouch I use the shaper with the high speed router spindle installed. The bits I use are from Jesada tools out of Florida. I have had good luck with these bits thus far. I also built a jig that mounts to the back of the BF6-31 that have for dust collection. As much as I use this -- you would think Felder would build this as an accessory. -- ### ------------------------------------------------------------------------ To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@... To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eLerts! Save cash today! -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault -- |
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Re: BF6-31 Question
Charlie Norton
Hey! I made the same mistake, only I compounded my embarrassment by calling
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Felder and reported that the planer arbor was spinning backward! Fortunately, they contained their laughter long enough to politely suggest that the switch might be in the wrong position. -----Original Message-----
From: Seth Honeyman <sdhoneyman@...> To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...> Date: Saturday, February 12, 2000 8:11 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: BF6-31 Question Geoff,the jointing. (Red-faced admission here - the first time I tried it, I had thethis felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...was never a problem - it's alot easier than you'd imagine, and I facemy
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Re: BF6-31 Question
Seth Honeyman
Geoff,
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I am a brand new BF6-31 owner and the jointer/planer was the first function I used. I had some pretty wide boards to face joint and I just did without the fence. After one small opening error, I had no problem at all doing the jointing. (Red-faced admission here - the first time I tried it, I had the function set to mortising instead of planing/jointing - does not work big time!) Regards - Seth ----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Jordan <jordanpaul@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 9:28 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: BF6-31 Question Geoffmy haveevenings cleaning up the machine and checking alignment. One thing I felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...noticed is that the fence when mounted on the in-feed jointer table cannotallow use of the full width of the jointer
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Congratulations to the group!
Art Pentz
Hi there! I'm not having much luck posting to this group - four
lengthy messages have disappeared as I typed them - where do they go? Anyway, I'm glad to be able to communicate with everyone so "easily". I live near Greensboro, NC where there will be an industrial woodworking show on Feb 18 + 19th. If you can attend let me know and I'll meet you there. I presently own a KF-7 (saw /shaper) with most of the "excessories" - it's a slippery slope! I am enrolled full time in a Fine Woodworking degree program at RCC and thus spend quite a bit of time in the shop. Woodworking is a new pursuit for me and I had no idea how seductive it would be. My present school project is a bowfront dresser with twelve drawers - that's a lot of tenons for drawer rails etc. Which brings me to this months' special that Wolfgang has so graciously offered the group. I use this cutter for all my tenon work. By using a sacrificial fence (3/8")over the shaper fences and a wood crosscut fence to act as a backer I slide the tenon stock over the cutter and back to create each cheek. I found that the carvers - the square cutters on top of the cutterhead - were too proud of the shoulder so I ground down one point on each of the top carvers. The result is hundreds of perfect tenons up to 1" in length. Be sure to use the sacrificial fence to prevent the cutter from pulling the stock into the shaper fence opening. E-mail me if you have any questions. My two pet peeves with my Felder machine (besides the lack of dado capability) are the really crappy design of the router spindle collet nut (I use a strap wrench rather than the pin spanner) and the difficulty in ripping long narrow stock due to the inability to support the stock easily on the infeed side. These two issues bother me every day since I change router bits often and frequently rip stock for ledger strips etc. Well, enough bitching! After using the large array of machines at school I realized how spoiled I was since my first tablesaw/shaper was a Felder! There are several tablesaws with sliding tables at school (excalibur etc.) which are notorious among the students for being unreliable. Felder would do well to address this market since most of the students will be opening their own shops upon graduation. I look forward to hearing everyones'tips etc. And let's help Felder understand the requirements of the American woodworker. PS - let me know if there is some way to start a new paragraph easily when posting to the group. |
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Re: BF6-31 Question
Paul Jordan
Geoff
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My old Robland X31 had this same issue. I just face jointed without the fence. For stock that's near the max cutter width you just need to make sure you don't "wander off the table" while you feed, but in practice this was never a problem - it's alot easier than you'd imagine, and I face jointed plenty of near 12" boards. Use the guard as well. P. ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Shepherd <geoff@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:05 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] BF6-31 Question I've had my '97 BF6-31 for almost two weeks now, and have been spending mynot allow use of the full width of the jointer |
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Cutting dados
Geoff Shepherd
The following is a digest of a relatively recent thread on cutting dados
using Felder equipment. The original messages are separated by the double-hyphen mark. Sorry if I got any of the original author's names mixed up - I tried to copy these posts verbatim from my e-mail archive. By reposting this thread in the new forum, it will be accessible in the message archives at the forum's web site. ..Geoff -- From: John Renzetti Could any of you guys give me some info on how you cut dadoes. Do you use the saw, the shaper, or another piece of equipment altogether. I'd like to compare ideas. Thanks, John Renzetti -- From: arnoldman John, I use the saw, with the splitter lowered below the level of the blade top, and "nibble away" the dado if it's only about 3/8" or narrower. For wider dadoes, I use the high speed spindle with a straight cutting router bit, and the saw/jointer fence. Chuck -- From: James Voos This is the only thing I miss from my Delta Unisaw. I have used the high speed spindle with some CMT straight cutting bits, but I would say I have been less than thrilled with the results. For dadoes close to an edge, I have used the slot cutter on the shaper, which gives a very nice result. The folks at Felder recommend I pick up some panel routing bits from Hersaf in Atascadero, CA but I haven't done it as of yet. Certainly requires a bigger investment in bits, compared with the various shimming options that a dado blade provides. The other option, of course is to use a router with a cross cut guide. I thought you still had your Unisaw. Did that go away? jim -- From: Taylor John, Haven't got around to that yet. I must say, that was a major disappointment to learn that a dado blade could not be used on the Felder. Tom @ Felder told me, last year, there was a local machine shop that would mill a slot in the edge of the siding table to provide clearance for a dado blade. That would be a tuff option to swallow for me. Perhaps I'll try the Hersaf router bits that you told me about when I get to crossing that bridge? Would love to hear of any miracle ideas on this, too. best regards, taylor -- From: APGAR, Lee, GCM I have yet to take delivery of the machines that I ordered at the phiily show. I ordered the KF-7 x and the AD 7-51 and was told specifically that i would be able to use a dado setup..........hmmmmm! -- From: Charlie Norton This is embarrassing, but I have been cutting dadoes two ways: 1) With multiple passes of the saw blade. I know, I know, it is crude, takes forever and is prone to error, but for vertical dadoes, it is the only method I have used so far (for vertical dadoes). 2) For horizontal dadoes, I am using the Felder (Leitz) Adjustable Groover on the shaper. This works well, although I would suggest using the safety plates that drop down between the infeed and outfeed fence halves. I do not yet have this option (or the fence that is required) and I think it would reduce the scare factor when performing these cuts. I will probably get the Hersaf bits at some point for vertical cuts. Good Luck! Charlie Norton -- From: Geoff Shepherd John - For a clever router & guide rail approach, check out the "Fractioning Baseplate" idea in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. I plan to try it. It basically multiplies your straight bit collection by a factor of four... ever try to shim a straight bit to make it a little wider? In effect, that's what this setup does. Check it out. While I do have a Forrest Dado-King (8"), I won't be able to use it on my BF6-31. I plan to move to router-made dado's using the high-speed spindle or a hand-held router as appropriate. I can always fall back on my Shopsmith if I really want to fire up the dado set, and there may be times where that will be useful so as not to disturb a particular setup on the Felder. ...Geoff (anxiously awaiting my BF6-31... and I will have my combined combination shop finally... hopefully this Sunday.) -- From: dolsid John: I have several ways. For stopped dados I use a plunge router with a jig consisting of a piece of 3/4 inch hard wood glued to 1/4 inch plywood. Guide the router base along the 3/4 wood with the bit of your choice to cut the plywood to size. Remember which side of the router is next to the guide since your base may not be centered. Use the edge of the plywood to position your dado. This jig can be used with a regular router for a ordinary dado. I use a router bit on the Felder router spindle when the precise depth is important. Also I have the option on the Felder for the dado. It is 3/8 of inch wide and you have to have your dado set drilled out to fit the 30mm arbor. I just got my dado set and made a bank insert so will try it out and let you know how it works. It is narrow but should work well for non-router bit widths and deep dados. I also have a Joint Tech fence on a router table which great when precise horizontal locations are needed. I will probably get a slot cutter for the shaper when I need to make very wide and deep dados(slots) e.g.. 2 inch by 3 inch. Finally I saved my regular CMT dado set and can use it on a regular table saw. -- From: Mike Crouch I use the shaper with the high speed router spindle installed. The bits I use are from Jesada tools out of Florida. I have had good luck with these bits thus far. I also built a jig that mounts to the back of the BF6-31 that have for dust collection. As much as I use this -- you would think Felder would build this as an accessory. -- ### |
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Re: Opening the Vault...
Geoff Shepherd
John,
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Point your web browser to: If you haven't yet set up a free account on the eGroups site, you'll be prompted to log in with a user name and password. Just follow the instructions for creating a new account (it's free). Once you have access to the forum's site, you should be able to get to the document vault via the above link. Right now it has four folders in it (and one unidentified flying JPG - anyone own that one?). One of the folders is "Special of the Month", and inside that is a MS-Word document called February_2000.doc. Click to download it. You'll need to have Microsoft Word installed to read it. Maybe someone could translate it to PDF format and upload it to the same directory... If that doesn't solve it for you, send me an e-mail and tell me where it's getting fouled up for you. BTW - Just in case you all are wondering why I am posting so many messages this evening... well, OK, I'm bored. I'm waiting for software to compile and load into an emulator here at work for testing and debugging, over and over again... ugh... I'd rather be making sawdust! Ah, the thrill of programming... -- Geoff ----- Original Message -----
From: Taylor <taylor911@...> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:15 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Chat room closed... Geoff, |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss