开云体育

-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd [SMTP:geoff@...]
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 12:20 AM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Cutting dados

The following is a digest of a relatively recent thread on cutting
dados
using Felder equipment. The original messages are separated by the
double-hyphen mark. Sorry if I got any of the original author's
names mixed
up - I tried to copy these posts verbatim from my e-mail archive. By
reposting this thread in the new forum, it will be accessible in the
message
archives at the forum's web site.

..Geoff


--
From: John Renzetti

Could any of you guys give me some info on how you cut dadoes. Do
you use
the saw, the shaper, or another piece of equipment altogether. I'd
like to
compare ideas.

Thanks,
John Renzetti

--
From: arnoldman

John, I use the saw, with the splitter lowered below the level of
the blade
top, and "nibble away" the dado if it's only about 3/8" or narrower.
For
wider dadoes, I use the high speed spindle with a straight cutting
router
bit, and the saw/jointer fence.

Chuck

--
From: James Voos

This is the only thing I miss from my Delta Unisaw. I have used the
high
speed spindle with some CMT straight cutting bits, but I would say I
have
been
less than thrilled with the results. For dadoes close to an edge, I
have
used
the slot cutter on the shaper, which gives a very nice result.

The folks at Felder recommend I pick up some panel routing bits from
Hersaf
in
Atascadero, CA but I haven't done it as of yet. Certainly requires
a bigger
investment in bits, compared with the various shimming options that
a dado
blade provides.

The other option, of course is to use a router with a cross cut
guide.

I thought you still had your Unisaw. Did that go away?

jim

--
From: Taylor

John,
Haven't got around to that yet. I must say, that was a major
disappointment to learn that a dado blade could not be used on the
Felder.
Tom @ Felder told me, last year, there was a local machine shop
that
would mill a slot in the edge of the siding table to provide
clearance for a
dado blade. That would be a tuff option to swallow for me.
Perhaps I'll try the Hersaf router bits that you told me about
when I get
to crossing that bridge?
Would love to hear of any miracle ideas on this, too.
best regards, taylor

--
From: APGAR, Lee, GCM

I have yet to take delivery of the machines that I ordered at the
phiily
show. I ordered the KF-7 x and the AD 7-51 and was told
specifically that
i would be able to use a dado setup..........hmmmmm!

--
From: Charlie Norton

This is embarrassing, but I have been cutting dadoes two ways:
1) With multiple passes of the saw blade. I know, I know, it is
crude,
takes forever and is prone to error, but for vertical dadoes, it is
the only
method I have used so far (for vertical dadoes).
2) For horizontal dadoes, I am using the Felder (Leitz)
Adjustable
Groover on the shaper. This works well, although I would suggest
using the
safety plates that drop down between the infeed and outfeed fence
halves. I
do not yet have this option (or the fence that is required) and I
think it
would reduce the scare factor when performing these cuts.

I will probably get the Hersaf bits at some point for vertical cuts.

Good Luck!

Charlie Norton

--
From: Geoff Shepherd

John - For a clever router & guide rail approach, check out the
"Fractioning
Baseplate" idea in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. I plan to try
it. It
basically multiplies your straight bit collection by a factor of
four...
ever try to shim a straight bit to make it a little wider? In
effect, that's
what this setup does. Check it out.

While I do have a Forrest Dado-King (8"), I won't be able to use it
on my
BF6-31. I plan to move to router-made dado's using the high-speed
spindle or
a hand-held router as appropriate. I can always fall back on my
Shopsmith if
I really want to fire up the dado set, and there may be times where
that
will be useful so as not to disturb a particular setup on the
Felder.

...Geoff
(anxiously awaiting my BF6-31... and I will have my combined
combination
shop finally... hopefully this Sunday.)

--
From: dolsid

John: I have several ways. For stopped dados I use a plunge router
with a
jig consisting of a piece of 3/4 inch hard wood glued to 1/4 inch
plywood.
Guide the router base along the 3/4 wood with the bit of your choice
to cut
the plywood to size. Remember which side of the router is next to
the
guide since your base may not be centered. Use the edge of the
plywood to
position your dado. This jig can be used with a regular router for a
ordinary dado. I use a router bit on the Felder router spindle
when the
precise depth is important. Also I have the option on the Felder
for the
dado. It is 3/8 of inch wide and you have to have your dado set
drilled
out to fit the 30mm arbor. I just got my dado set and made a bank
insert so
will try it out and let you know how it works. It is narrow but
should work
well for non-router bit widths and deep dados. I also have a Joint
Tech
fence on a router table which great when precise horizontal
locations are
needed. I will probably get a slot cutter for the shaper when I
need to
make very wide and deep dados(slots) e.g.. 2 inch by 3 inch.
Finally I
saved my regular CMT dado set and can use it on a regular table saw.

--
From: Mike Crouch

I use the shaper with the high speed router spindle installed.
The bits I use are from Jesada tools out of Florida.
I have had good luck with these bits thus far. I also built a jig
that
mounts to the back of the BF6-31 that have for dust collection.
As much
as I use this -- you would think Felder would build this as an
accessory.

--
###




------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...


------------------------------------------------------------------------
eLerts!
Save cash today!


-- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
--