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Finished up my Copy Stick
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
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My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
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My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
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One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
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My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
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This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
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This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
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Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
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-Rusty
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Re: #forsale K700 Professional and FB 610 (Seattle)
#forsale
What are the details on the shopsabre? B+ On Sun, Apr 27, 2025 at 12:30?PM Jared via <jarbroen=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Shaper hose replacment KF 700
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Mike, If the hose exits low on the cabinet, why do you need to mess with the PF. In my case, The hose exits thru the tilt bracket. May be a picture will help. If you rest the PF on the cast iron there will not be any weight on the F channel interface. This may be okay, as long as the PF and the stand is stable and does not wobble left or right. I did the opposite which places weight on the F channel and it hung in a stable manner. It does force the lower part of the tilt bracket into the machine but I was still able to pull the plastic cover out. I still don¡¯t know why you need to remove the plastic cover if the hose exits lower on the cabinet. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Apr 25, 2025, at 7:55?PM, TMichael WARD via groups.io <tmikko@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran. My power feeder too is resting .? My 2008 machine also rests on the F rail, but has an. 80 mm hose which is? longer, as it goes down to the bottom edge of the cabinet.
Based on your experience, I'll try to spin the power feeder over to the saw deck, unweight it by lowering to the table, and maybe lift the inner part of the? tube so that when I undo the mounting bolts I can pull it out far enough to free the plastic shroud. Then hopefully can get at the upper hose connection.? And see if I can persuade my 3D printing friends to make me two 80 mm to 2.5" adapters. Mike
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Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Update:
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Bought Metabo NP50A, it is $120 on Amazon:
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At 80 PSI it drove 1 3/8¡± pins consistently. It is advertised to handle up to 2¡± but 1 3/8¡± is the longest I had as that was the limit for the Grex I bought and returned. It drives as short as 1/2¡±.
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I feel comfortable with keeping this as I have 20 PSI head room and would not care if it did not drive 2¡± all the way.
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Imran
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Re: Shaper hose replacment KF 700
Thanks Imran. My power feeder too is resting .? My 2008 machine also rests on the F rail, but has an. 80 mm hose which is? longer, as it goes down to the bottom edge of the cabinet.
Based on your experience, I'll try to spin the power feeder over to the saw deck, unweight it by lowering to the table, and maybe lift the inner part of the? tube so that when I undo the mounting bolts I can pull it out far enough to free the plastic shroud. Then hopefully can get at the upper hose connection.? And see if I can persuade my 3D printing friends to make me two 80 mm to 2.5" adapters. Mike |
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Nova Viking Performance and Experience
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAs it was mentioned earlier here, Nova¡¯s US arm is going thru chapter 11 reorganization. Appears they liquidated Nova Viking via Grizzly. It cost me $1187 delivered with lift gate charge ($500 off list price). Bit of a let down, I was told by Grizzly CS that extended warranty is included in purchase price but it turned out not to be the case. I was able to assemble the unit myself. Just scooted the column to the edge of the styrofoam so I can attach the base. Then lifted it up. Talking about the base it is not as big or as substantial as my current Delta 17-900. Although, I found it to be stable. For heavy and long metal work, it would be best to secure the base someway. It is not mentioned anywhere but it must have soft start as there is no startup torque induced vibration, something I am used to experiencing on my Delta. Couple of minor issues. Morse taper was scratched. Nova sent a replacement, took longer than I like but there was no resistance. Apparently they are working with a skeleton crew. I could not find a place to attach the chuck key holder other than removing one of the screws that holds the top cover and screwing it in that location. No mention in the manual either. I prefer a simple magnet for this but here is how I mounted it. The manual is decent but not perfect by any means. I will need to come up with a speed chart that I can mount on the DP. My Delta has one on the machine and it is very handy. One other thing, it requires a 3900 J surge protector. This Eaton model set me back $85. I wanted a smaller unit but could not find one, I guess it is not a big deal. |
Brad Wall
imran
TMichael WARD
There is no runout to speak of at the taper.
Not sure how important this is, but the chuck outside is within 0.001¡±.
Then I chucked a new 15/32 bit and checked runout on shank on the top and it measured +/- 0.001¡±. I don¡¯t have a precise shaft to indicate down couple of inches to see how accurate it really is but so far so good.
I thought that I would need to buy an expensive chuck to get this type of performance, so naturally I am very satisfied.
Just drilled the first hole (1/2¡±) in the plastic. Very nice and crisp hole. It is to install a panel mount fuse holder. The plastic cover could not be easily held perfectly vertical the way it is constructed and I noticed that the laser is slightly off. I will try a flat piece to double check before messing with re-alignment of the laser.
HTH anyone, considering to buy a Viking. I assume Voyger is just as good if not better.
Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations
Jonathan Martens