Re: Fixing Felder X-roll short cross cut fence T-nut - AKA group buy of improved T-nut
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Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
When I shipped my previous saw ABF picked it up with a flatbed & forklift combo. Pretty easy.
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
Stan - I would check a 12’ trailer, might be easier to handle/back to your driveway.
A wooden deck will be easier to unload from vs steel.
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Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
FWIW, ABF freight has a flatbed + forklift combo service that Felder can arrange for the delivery. My saw will be here (Seattle) in May (hopefully) and that's the route I have chosen.
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Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
For that machine, I would still go for a drop-deck trailer.?? You could actually back in enough where the trailer wheels are just inside the garage so that you don't have any driveway angle to worry about.
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Tilt deck trailers might work, but trying to match the driveway angle with the trailer angle is much more difficult.? You have a really heavy machine/pallet to deal with.?? Unless your doing a forklift (not recommended unless you are skilled/trained), then drop-deck trailer is the way to go.
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-Aaron Inami
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Re: AD741 - Chatter on the infeed roller
Scuff the roller-contacting surface of the finish on the stock with some 80 grit if you can, finer if you cant. Just enough to make it better traction?when you are running out of it. Might be surprised what a quick pass with a hand block or power orbiter could do for your feeding if stock is too smooth.
The chattering is likely due to the type and thickness of material. Try to lift the boards up as you feed them in, at least until they are under the outfeed rollers. Same goes on the outfeed, if you lift the boards as they get past the infeed rollers, you will hold them flat on the table. Some timber isn't an issue, but others are when it becomes thinner, i suspect this is one of those situations.
Regards,
Bryce
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-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
Thank you all for sharing your experience. It sounds like a drop deck trailer (something I did not even know existed) is a safer option than trying to deal with a forklift. I spent several days figuring out weight ratings and I cannot get a trailer that is simultaneously light and wide enough, so I plan to get a pickup, a 16" trailer and a pallet jack from United. Yet another skill to learn.
The question now is whether to get a drop deck or a tilt deck. With a tilted driveway, I would assume that a tilt deck could come almost level with the garage floor and give me more space for maneuver in the garage itself. Any pitfalls I should keep in mind?
On Thu, Apr 10, 2025 at 14:16, John Hinman via groups.io < jhinman1911@...> wrote:
Getting stuck is not good! I bought a bandsaw that shipped upright. It was delivered via liftgate. I thought I could out it in my garage while I figured out how to get it to my shop.?
Unfortunately the crate was an inch too tall to get into my garage! I had to hustle to get friends to help me get it in rated and moved before it rained that day.?
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Re: HELP KF700 Spindle not lowering
In general because I don’t have your schematic Felder circuits work as follows. There is a microswitch on each end of the spindle travel. These, once tripped, stop further travel in that direction and only allow travel in the opposite direction. This hold true until the switch releases.
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On Apr 13, 2025, at 9:50?PM, Brad Wall via groups.io <wallbrad92@...> wrote: ? Having a weird issue that just started tonight. My 04’ KF700 spindle will raise but will not lower. It is the digi drive — if you have any thoughts please let me know!!
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HELP KF700 Spindle not lowering
Having a weird issue that just started tonight. My 04’ KF700 spindle will raise but will not lower. It is the digi drive — if you have any thoughts please let me know!!
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Re: Fixing Felder X-roll short cross cut fence T-nut - AKA group buy of improved T-nut
Put me down for a two machine kit.
Dale
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Re: AD741 - Chatter on the infeed roller
The chattering is likely due to the type and thickness of material. Try to lift the boards up as you feed them in, at least until they are under the outfeed rollers. Same goes on the outfeed, if you lift the boards as they get past the infeed rollers, you will hold them flat on the table. Some timber isn't an issue, but others are when it becomes thinner, i suspect this is one of those situations.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: AD741 - Chatter on the infeed roller
Boy you are going to have a mess to clean on those cutters, replacing them may be easier. A planer is not designed to do this. I have on occasion used WBS to remove finish. If your machine is otherwise okay, I assume the board is lifting from the cutters being gummed up. Purely a guess.
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On Apr 13, 2025, at 7:37?AM, Matt Tebo via groups.io <teboma1982@...> wrote: ? Based on your description, it sounds like your pressure bar is set too high. ?It should be adjusted to be perfectly flush with the cutting circle of the knives.
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Re: AD741 - Chatter on the infeed roller
Based on your description, it sounds like your pressure bar is set too high. ?It should be adjusted to be perfectly flush with the cutting circle of the knives.
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AD741 - Chatter on the infeed roller
HI all
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Finding some chatter on 14.5mm boards with 0.5mm depth of cut on some oak flooring....its an engineered board with 5mm of oak and i am removing the finish to apply Rubio.
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Its only on the first 100mm, distance from the feed roller to the helix cutter head, once it catches the outfeed roller all is well.
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Finish has been very consistant and high quality and the chatter comes out with 180G sand anyway but just want to fix it.
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Beds are clean and recently waxed and its new blade in the cutter.
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Any thoughts would be welcome from the group.
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Thanks
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Colum O'Donovan
Dubai and Chamonix.
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You might enjoy my recent video about building a MFT top for Rangate lift cart:
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I start with a torsion box made from aluminum extrusion. Additional beam members give it the rigidity it needs and help prevent sagging over time. For the hole grid, I use the Parf Guide Mk2 system to drill the 20mm dog holes in an MDF top. (Would it be nicer to use a CNC? Absolutely.)
I treat the top as a consumable—it takes a lot of abuse. Once it’s worn out or doesn’t feel dialed in anymore, I just replace it with a fresh sheet.
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Build a flat Aluminium or steel sub frame then bolt or screw a wood base to that shimming the frame to the lift to get it flat. If you want it to stay flat don't use timber.
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BILL. I also think it’s a good idea to at least have 2 inch of overlap on all edges so you can clamp on the edges very handy. For larger projects, I use two side horses with 4 x 4 stiff backs that are perfectly straight and I am very length up to 22 feet. That’s the easiest way to build stuff that’s large. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 8:07?PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? ?Hi BILL, so I would if I was you, be looking for DIE boards you can get them in numerous thickness but you want to find something that’s at least an inch thick and you can buy them with phenoliccovering. Often used for concrete form work. if you do a web search of dieboard all kinds of stuff comes up all over the place. I have one 4 x 8 layout table that’s tubular steel structure and I have 1 inch dieboard on it and I just cover it with tempered hard masonite quarter inch, I also have plastic laminate that’s at least an eighth of an inch thick. I’ve got big like 5 x 10 sheets a few of them of it. I don’t know what the heck it’s called but it’s a lot heavier than horizontal 16 inch laminate. Best mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 12, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran. I could get that done…Or I could make my own and not put holes where the frame is! ? Bill On Apr 12, 2025, at 16:17, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
? I made my own FAT/MFT table by laminating two layers of 3/4" maple plywood and then a 3/4" solid maple piece for the border.? Drilled out all the hole using a cheap Bora Centipede MFT table as a pattern and a magnetic drill to ensure the holes were perfectly vertical.? A couple of 20mm Fisch forstner bits.? The table came out pretty damn flat when checking with a 6 foot Stabila level.??
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If I had to do it again, I might just get a 1-3/4" Boos Block piece:
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-Aaron Inami
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?Hi BILL, so I would if I was you, be looking for DIE boards you can get them in numerous thickness but you want to find something that’s at least an inch thick and you can buy them with phenoliccovering. Often used for concrete form work. if you do a web search of dieboard all kinds of stuff comes up all over the place. I have one 4 x 8 layout table that’s tubular steel structure and I have 1 inch dieboard on it and I just cover it with tempered hard masonite quarter inch, I also have plastic laminate that’s at least an eighth of an inch thick. I’ve got big like 5 x 10 sheets a few of them of it. I don’t know what the heck it’s called but it’s a lot heavier than horizontal 16 inch laminate. Best mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran. I could get that done…Or I could make my own and not put holes where the frame is! ? Bill On Apr 12, 2025, at 16:17, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
? I made my own FAT/MFT table by laminating two layers of 3/4" maple plywood and then a 3/4" solid maple piece for the border.? Drilled out all the hole using a cheap Bora Centipede MFT table as a pattern and a magnetic drill to ensure the holes were perfectly vertical.? A couple of 20mm Fisch forstner bits.? The table came out pretty damn flat when checking with a 6 foot Stabila level.??
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If I had to do it again, I might just get a 1-3/4" Boos Block piece:
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-Aaron Inami
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Thanks Imran. I could get that done…Or I could make my own and not put holes where the frame is! ? Bill
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Show quoted text
On Apr 12, 2025, at 16:17, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
? I made my own FAT/MFT table by laminating two layers of 3/4" maple plywood and then a 3/4" solid maple piece for the border.? Drilled out all the hole using a cheap Bora Centipede MFT table as a pattern and a magnetic drill to ensure the holes were perfectly vertical.? A couple of 20mm Fisch forstner bits.? The table came out pretty damn flat when checking with a 6 foot Stabila level.??
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If I had to do it again, I might just get a 1-3/4" Boos Block piece:
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-Aaron Inami
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If you have, or have access to, a CNC machine, you could using a
bed surfacing bit to skim cut both sides.? Be careful to how you
clamp it though, or you'll defeat the objective.
On 4/12/2025 1:18 PM, Bill Belanger via
groups.io wrote:
I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is
not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have
good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others
have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops
available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another
top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I
thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like
that idea.
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Bill Belanger
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Michael Garrison Stuber
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imran
Brad Wall
Bryce Comer
Colum
Bill Belanger