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Re: Totally unrelated question
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case…I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
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Re: Saw blade for cross cut.
Way too many teeth called to make a great blade that’s inexpensive and I think it’s 300 diameter and 20 tooth maybe or 28 tooth AB replace. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 31, 2025, at 8:25?AM, imran via groups.io <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:
? Chris, I should have added that in my experience one does not need high tooth count for cross cutting solid wood. The PN I shared below, you can see in application column, is recommended for veneer plywood.
On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:13?AM, Imran Malik <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:
? Chris, Below is a response I posted some time ago on my FB group. Here is the list of blades from Tenryu for sliding table saws and the PN for ATAFR is? IW-300100AB3
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***
It is very helpful to think this out. One should try to get all blades with same kerf so all scales and riving knife remain true.
I started with Felder silent power (315 mm, 28 & 48 teeth ATB) on my 2002 KF without scoring option and the are fine. 3.2 mm kerf. I can’t comment to what max blade you can use with and without scoring on your KF but it should be in the manual.
I have been using Tenryu on my K975 and they are good blades. 300/350 mm dia and 28, 50 & 32 teeth ATB. 350 does not go under table.
IW-30028CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-30050CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-35032CBD3 (0.136 kerf)
David P Best uses the 50 teeth above for both rip and xcut and says it works fine.
Sliders do work better with less hook so do look for blades specifically made for sliders. Hopefully this helps.
**
On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:35?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:
?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?
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Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 31, 2025, at 8:39?AM, John Van Derwood via groups.io <vinfonet15@...> wrote:
?
Dave, I used a glue down commercial grade vinyl. ?Very happy with this product. ?Looks good, easy to sweep, easy to repair like vinyl tires. ?It seems to be a bit more resilient than hard concrete under your feet. ?It has held up under the machines in my shop well. ?Also less cold than bare concrete, and economical to buy and install.
Dave, I used a glue down commercial grade vinyl. ?Very happy with this product. ?Looks good, easy to sweep, easy to repair like vinyl tires. ?It seems to be a bit more resilient than hard concrete under your feet. ?It has held up under the machines in my shop well. ?Also less cold than bare concrete, and economical to buy and install.
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Re: Saw blade for cross cut.
Chris, I should have added that in my experience one does not need high tooth count for cross cutting solid wood. The PN I shared below, you can see in application column, is recommended for veneer plywood.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:13?AM, Imran Malik <imranwoodshop@...> wrote: ? Chris, Below is a response I posted some time ago on my FB group. Here is the list of blades from Tenryu for sliding table saws and the PN for ATAFR is? IW-300100AB3
| |
***
It is very helpful to think this out. One should try to get all blades with same kerf so all scales and riving knife remain true.
I started with Felder silent power (315 mm, 28 & 48 teeth ATB) on my 2002 KF without scoring option and the are fine. 3.2 mm kerf. I can’t comment to what max blade you can use with and without scoring on your KF but it should be in the manual.
I have been using Tenryu on my K975 and they are good blades. 300/350 mm dia and 28, 50 & 32 teeth ATB. 350 does not go under table.
IW-30028CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-30050CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-35032CBD3 (0.136 kerf)
David P Best uses the 50 teeth above for both rip and xcut and says it works fine.
Sliders do work better with less hook so do look for blades specifically made for sliders. Hopefully this helps.
**
On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:35?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:
?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?
Re: Saw blade for cross cut.
Chris, Below is a response I posted some time ago on my FB group. Here is the list of blades from Tenryu for sliding table saws and the PN for ATAFR is? IW-300100AB3
| |
***
It is very helpful to think this out. One should try to get all blades with same kerf so all scales and riving knife remain true.
I started with Felder silent power (315 mm, 28 & 48 teeth ATB) on my 2002 KF without scoring option and the are fine. 3.2 mm kerf. I can’t comment to what max blade you can use with and without scoring on your KF but it should be in the manual.
I have been using Tenryu on my K975 and they are good blades. 300/350 mm dia and 28, 50 & 32 teeth ATB. 350 does not go under table.
IW-30028CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-30050CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-35032CBD3 (0.136 kerf)
David P Best uses the 50 teeth above for both rip and xcut and says it works fine.
Sliders do work better with less hook so do look for blades specifically made for sliders. Hopefully this helps.
**
On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:35?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:
?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?
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Re: Totally unrelated question
For the ceiling, I'd be more comfortable with locking buttons instead of z-clips.
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 07:30, Brian Lamb via groups.io < blamb11@...> wrote:
This place has what you need, I used to use their Z-clips for hanging items a lot.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:22:25 AM MST, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
Thank you Cornelius!?
Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?
The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz
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Hi Dave
Unfortunately, it is too early for me to make a recommendation, but it's likely our new workshop floor will be "burnished" concrete.? It's also recommended I apply a good sealer after that.? Burnishing needs to be done before the concrete initially dries.? (Not sure if I have that exactly correct).? I've been advised the cost of burnishing is about mid way between just troweling (ie not much) and being polished.??
Cheers
David
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Re: Totally unrelated question
Hi Mariusz
Clinton's suggestion is what came to mind when I read your post.??
In addition to that, having the "shadow area" including edges of the ply all black helps too. (check out this Scott Brown video.. ? ) It shows how they solved many of the problems.
Not sure if this is a good idea or not, but you could potentially run LED strip lighting in some of the shadow lines.
?
Cheers, David
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Re: Totally unrelated question
Hi Mariusz
I am an architect. Joins between different materials are always complicated.? The simplest treatment is to create a deliberate "shadow line".? This can be a fixed gap between the ply and the wall? sheet. Alternatively cut a shallow rebate in the veneered material at the wall.? This could be painted to emphasise the line or even taken as an opportunity to insert LED strip lighting around the perimeter of the room.
Regards
Clinton
Thank you Brian and Mac!
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Mac, I’m glad the spindle worked out at the end!
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Re: Ladder Diagram for KF700S
Hi Michael,
I have heard of these current limiting devices but have no personal experience. It may be a simpler solution.
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We never learned ladder logic in ELectrical Engineering, so can’t help you there but if you share the machine wiring diagram. I can annotate it with how the machine powers up and powers down.
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On Mar 30, 2025, at 4:07?PM, Michael Garrison Stuber via groups.io <mtgstuber@...> wrote:
?
Does anyone have a ladder diagram for the motor control for the KF700 S?? I have the schematic that came with the saw, which is helpful, but also somewhat confusing.? A ladder diagram would be so much easier.
?
I've found that my off-grid power system really does not like the electronic braking system.? It's also not entirely happy with the inrush current.? I'm looking to integrate a soft start like I have have in my other large tools and disable the brake board.? Disabling the brake board is pretty easy.? The schematic shows what needs to be jumpered if there isn't a brake board.
?
I want to change the sequence so that the start button initiates the soft-start, and have the soft start disconnect the starting caps when it's finished with the ramp sequence.? Similarly, I need the stop button to open the control circuit for the soft-start.
?
(Note:? I'm aware that electronic brake is a safety feature.? This is for personal use and I'm willing to live with that risk to not cause damage to my inverters)
Re: Totally unrelated question
Thank you Brian and Mac!
?
Mac, I’m glad the spindle worked out at the end!
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Found concrete densifiers.? Densifiers seem to be different than sealers? Dave Davies
Concrete sealers can be clear or tinted and the good stuff you won’t find at the big box stores. I have used Sika sealers on past projects and will more than likely use it on a shop I’m building this year.?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Concrete sealers can be clear or tinted and the good stuff you won’t find at the big box stores. I have used Sika sealers on past projects and will more than likely use it on a shop I’m building this year.?
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Ladder Diagram for KF700S
Does anyone have a ladder diagram for the motor control for the KF700 S?? I have the schematic that came with the saw, which is helpful, but also somewhat confusing.? A ladder diagram would be so much easier.
?
I've found that my off-grid power system really does not like the electronic braking system.? It's also not entirely happy with the inrush current.? I'm looking to integrate a soft start like I have have in my other large tools and disable the brake board.? Disabling the brake board is pretty easy.? The schematic shows what needs to be jumpered if there isn't a brake board.
?
I want to change the sequence so that the start button initiates the soft-start, and have the soft start disconnect the starting caps when it's finished with the ramp sequence.? Similarly, I need the stop button to open the control circuit for the soft-start.
?
(Note:? I'm aware that electronic brake is a safety feature.? This is for personal use and I'm willing to live with that risk to not cause damage to my inverters)
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When you guys say "seal", what is the material?? I'm picturing Costco.? Is that what you are describing?
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Re: Totally unrelated question
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Mariusz,
This is one style I’ve used numerous times also just a butt line with a steel profile the z shadow you might say it’s more forgiving.
By the way just started using the 30 mm spindle for the Gomad again thank you.
Best mac,,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 30, 2025, at 6:11?AM, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
?
This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints??
Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws.
Thanks a lot!
Mariusz
Re: File /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl uploaded
#file-notice
OK, I uploaded another version that's .25mm thicker, it's called the Felder spinter block 37mm wide.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:25:09 AM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
Measure your stop blocks, mine are 37mm wide off the fence and my printed part came out about 36.75mm, so I'll add the .25mm to the model and repost the stl file. Better to be slightly wider and sand it down rather than too narrow.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:19:25 AM MST, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian! I will give it a whirl and report back on it.
Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Totally unrelated question
This place has what you need, I used to use their Z-clips for hanging items a lot.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:22:25 AM MST, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
Thank you Cornelius!?
Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?
The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz
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John Van Derwood
imran
Jonathan Smith