I appreciate the suggestions, fellows. I will give the KV slides a try. Maybe not the 500-pound slides at $140 per pair, but the model 8500 look interesting.
I use KV 8908 as well. ?My supplier is??- they have a branch near you in Boise and worth setting up an account if you don¡¯t already have one. ?They have good pricing and will ship to the local branch for pick up free of charge if they¡¯re not already in stock. ?
On Jan 5, 2025, at 10:14?AM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?
I am putting together another bank of drawers for my shop, and am looking for recommendations for drawer slides. Boxes are 35¡± wide, and will carry both heavy and light loads.
?
I¡¯m the past I have used Accuride side mounts, but the last I bought was disappointing. I like the rigidity of side mounts, and I do not care that the hardware is visible. I just want drawers that open and close smoothly and quietly.
?
Blum is a good brand, but apparently they do not make side mounts.
?
There are plenty of less expensive imports - are any these any good?
On Jan 5, 2025, at 3:30?PM, Jarrett Maxwell via groups.io <j.a.max7@...> wrote:
?
I have Fulterer brand in my shop and they work great. I think Fulterer is a German company but the slides are made in Taiwan. They've been a good balance between cost and performance. I have a mix of 100lb and 200lb rated ball bearing slides with no issues.?
Jarrett
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 1:56?PM Andy via <andy.raynor08=[email protected]> wrote:
KV 8908s with lock in/outs.? Load rating 200-500 lbs. great for shops and for pack outs.?
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025 at 2:48?PM Brian Lamb via <blamb11=[email protected]> wrote:
I agree with KV, they seem smoother than the Accuride and have worked well for me.
On Sunday, January 5, 2025 at 12:43:31 PM MST, Wade Dees via <wjdsignature=[email protected]> wrote:
John,
I used KV heavy duty slides in my shop. ?13 plus years and still going strong. ?
Thx,
Wade
On Jan 5, 2025, at 10:14?AM, John Hinman via <jhinman1911=[email protected]> wrote:
?
I am putting together another bank of drawers for my shop, and am looking for recommendations for drawer slides. Boxes are 35¡± wide, and will carry both heavy and light loads.
?
I¡¯m the past I have used Accuride side mounts, but the last I bought was disappointing. I like the rigidity of side mounts, and I do not care that the hardware is visible. I just want drawers that open and close smoothly and quietly.
?
Blum is a good brand, but apparently they do not make side mounts.
?
There are plenty of less expensive imports - are any these any good?
I have Fulterer brand in my shop and they work great. I think Fulterer is a German company but the slides are made in Taiwan. They've been a good balance between cost and performance. I have a mix of 100lb and 200lb rated ball bearing slides with no issues.?
On Sunday, January 5, 2025 at 12:43:31 PM MST, Wade Dees via <wjdsignature=[email protected]> wrote:
John,
I used KV heavy duty slides in my shop. ?13 plus years and still going strong. ?
Thx,
Wade
On Jan 5, 2025, at 10:14?AM, John Hinman via <jhinman1911=[email protected]> wrote:
?
I am putting together another bank of drawers for my shop, and am looking for recommendations for drawer slides. Boxes are 35¡± wide, and will carry both heavy and light loads.
?
I¡¯m the past I have used Accuride side mounts, but the last I bought was disappointing. I like the rigidity of side mounts, and I do not care that the hardware is visible. I just want drawers that open and close smoothly and quietly.
?
Blum is a good brand, but apparently they do not make side mounts.
?
There are plenty of less expensive imports - are any these any good?
On Sunday, January 5, 2025 at 12:43:31 PM MST, Wade Dees via <wjdsignature=[email protected]> wrote:
John,
I used KV heavy duty slides in my shop. ?13 plus years and still going strong. ?
Thx,
Wade
On Jan 5, 2025, at 10:14?AM, John Hinman via <jhinman1911=[email protected]> wrote:
?
I am putting together another bank of drawers for my shop, and am looking for recommendations for drawer slides. Boxes are 35¡± wide, and will carry both heavy and light loads.
?
I¡¯m the past I have used Accuride side mounts, but the last I bought was disappointing. I like the rigidity of side mounts, and I do not care that the hardware is visible. I just want drawers that open and close smoothly and quietly.
?
Blum is a good brand, but apparently they do not make side mounts.
?
There are plenty of less expensive imports - are any these any good?
On Jan 5, 2025, at 10:14?AM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?
I am putting together another bank of drawers for my shop, and am looking for recommendations for drawer slides. Boxes are 35¡± wide, and will carry both heavy and light loads.
?
I¡¯m the past I have used Accuride side mounts, but the last I bought was disappointing. I like the rigidity of side mounts, and I do not care that the hardware is visible. I just want drawers that open and close smoothly and quietly.
?
Blum is a good brand, but apparently they do not make side mounts.
?
There are plenty of less expensive imports - are any these any good?
On Jan 5, 2025, at 10:14?AM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?
I am putting together another bank of drawers for my shop, and am looking for recommendations for drawer slides. Boxes are 35¡± wide, and will carry both heavy and light loads.
?
I¡¯m the past I have used Accuride side mounts, but the last I bought was disappointing. I like the rigidity of side mounts, and I do not care that the hardware is visible. I just want drawers that open and close smoothly and quietly.
?
Blum is a good brand, but apparently they do not make side mounts.
?
There are plenty of less expensive imports - are any these any good?
I am putting together another bank of drawers for my shop, and am looking for recommendations for drawer slides. Boxes are 35¡± wide, and will carry both heavy and light loads.
?
I¡¯m the past I have used Accuride side mounts, but the last I bought was disappointing. I like the rigidity of side mounts, and I do not care that the hardware is visible. I just want drawers that open and close smoothly and quietly.
?
Blum is a good brand, but apparently they do not make side mounts.
?
There are plenty of less expensive imports - are any these any good?
I use DaVinci Resolve 19.? It is pretty powerful, one time charge and updates pretty frequently.? If you have a powerful PC and a graphics card, it can use the acceleration.
?
It can do almost anything.? I learn how to use it more and more as I go.
David Best - thank you for posting this. ?I have been looking for a replacement for my Joby for tabletop (or slidertop). ?Good to see the Surui in action. Rich Markiewicz
I use iphone 14 pro for now. ?Just started doing more videos. ?I'm learning to edit them with LumaFusion on ipad. ?
I'm using concrete Home Depot bucket with gas pipe and 3D Printed articulating arm with Edelkrone FlexTILT head on it. ?Here is a little video overview i did of the setup
On Jan 5, 2025, at 8:47?AM, Jared Sankovich via groups.io <Sankovichj@...> wrote:
?
I never glue up doors at their final size. They get trimmed to size/square after. Any tearout there gets cut off in the process.?
I used to fit them on my jointer.
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 8:31 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
Jared,
Yes, that was my original question and no one has really addressed that because their workflow does not include that step. The short version of responses is:
For stile, cut to length and then profile the long grain
For rail, cut to length, do cope and then do the long grain
You mentioned you run long pieces thru for long grain profile. I did the same with climb cut and PF and it was quick but with the thumbnail (qtr round) profile, I was getting occasional tear out when cutting to length. I solved it with inserting the counter profile piece but it took longer to trim rails and stiles to length with that method.
As I write this I probably would have gotten clean cut upside down with profile side being cut first. However, I can only do it on one side. Issue was chipout at the lower edge pointed to by the arrow when the grain was not straight.
How do you trim?
Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations
On Jan 5, 2025, at 8:07?AM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj=[email protected]> wrote:
?
I just realized I read your original post incorrectly. I thought ypu were getting tearout when coping the rails after sticking. As I read it again, it seems like the tearout issue you are having is when you are crosscutting at the saw?
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 7:39 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
Thank you David. One thing I was too lazy to do was employ the tenoning plate. I had slight variation at the joint even though all pieces were milled upside down (actually required by the router bit set). It was easily sanded but I would definitely use the tenoning plate next time.
Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations
On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:41?PM, David P. Best via <dbestworkshop=[email protected]> wrote:
?
Imran,?
I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined.? I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence.? A few years ago I posted a series of videos demonstrating this workflow using a Freeborn cutter set similar to yours.? You can view the videos at this link: ?
David Best - via mobile phone?
On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:53?AM, Tom Gensmer via <tom=[email protected]> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN